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Each week, we present a selection of our favorite watches from the pre-owned side of our collection. We photograph each one so that you get a closer look at what makes these watches so special. This week, we have a Zenith-era Rolex Daytona, a very special limited edition Speedmaster, a largely forgotten chronograph from Tudor, something perpetual from Patek Philippe, and even a limited edition pilot's watch from IWC.
Rolex Daytona 16520
As something of an oddity from a company that prided itself on owning the patent on the modern automatic winding system, up until 1988, the Rolex Daytona had always been a manually wound chronograph. In fact, at this point, Rolex was almost 20 years behind in the chronograph game, something that makes more sense when you notice those were also the first 20 years of mass-produced quartz watches that changed the watchmaking landscape. Before wanting to invest in making a movement that had literally helped bankrupt watch brands in the past, they went hunting for the perfect caliber.
This is where the story of Charles Vermot and the Zenith El Primero meet Rolex in what is probably the greatest story about watchmaking's mechanical revival. If you have a moment to read about it or watch a video, you will not be disappointed. The short version is that the first automatic chronograph movement turned out to be the best option, and thanks to the efforts of one man, Zenith would produce the chronograph movement for the Rolex Daytona.
Finally, in 1988, Rolex introduced its first automatic chronograph, the "Zenith" Daytona ref. 16520. Based on Zenith's El Primero movement, this Rolex Daytona ushered in a new generation for the model line. While the nickname and base caliber connect back to the original maker, Rolex performed over 200 modifications to the movement, bringing it up to the brand's standard to create the caliber 4030. The collectibility and desirability of this Daytona generation seems to grow by the day, with more and more collectors paying attention.
This specific example has a black dial and red "Daytona" text and makes the most of a neo-vintage Rolex experience by blending an old-school format with an all-but-modern Daytona wrist presence.
Patek Philippe 5059P Perpetual Calendar
The Patek Philippe 5059P Perpetual Calendar is a stunning example of an uncommon take on the QP from Patek. The 5059P features a perpetual calendar complication, which accurately displays the day, date, month, leap year, and moon phases, requiring no adjustment until the year 2100. The dial is beautifully designed with a combination of a white base and black accents, offering a refined and sophisticated aesthetic. With a stately and baroque case, the 5059P employs a pair of windows for the day and month displays, while the active date is shown via a center-mounted retrograde pointer date.
The 5059P's case, crafted from platinum, measures 36mm in diameter, providing a balanced presence on the wrist. Its sleek, polished finish underscores the watch's high-end appeal. The complicated and beautifully finished movement is visible when one opens the hunter-style caseback, which includes a hinged caseback over a sapphire display.
As a collector's item, the Patek Philippe 5059P Perpetual Calendar stands out for its rarity, its distinctive sense of style, and the whimsy of the caseback and retrograde date functionality.
Omega Speedmaster 1957 Trilogy 60th Anniversary Limited Edition
The Speedmaster, known for its iconic design, has remained relatively unchanged since the 1960s, with the same hands, dial, case, bezel, movement, and crystal enduring for six decades. However, it's important not to forget that the original design had some subtle differences. The 1957 Trilogy edition, launched in 2017 to commemorate the Speedmaster's 60th anniversary, pays homage to the original model.
This limited edition timepiece closely resembles the original, featuring a symmetrical straight lug case that is noticeably slimmer compared to the later design iterations. With a diameter of 38.5mm, it offers a more wearable size for any wrist, and despite the reduced width, legibility remains excellent with its three-register chronograph layout.
Overall, these elements come together to create a watch that serves as a clear reminder of the NASA-tested Speedmaster while possessing its own distinct character. While the Speedmaster gained fame as the watch worn during lunar missions, this particular model was originally intended for the race tracks of Le Mans. Nevertheless, one can't help but imagine that the astronauts would have been just as pleased to wear this remarkable timepiece on their space missions.
IWC Pilot's Chronograph IW3777-25 '150 Years' Limited Edition
Originally offered in 2018, the Pilot's Chronograph IWC IW3777-25 is a special white-dial limited edition model that embodies the spirit of aviation with its robust construction and highly legible dial. The IW3777-25 features a 43mm stainless steel case that exudes durability and strength, ideal for the adventurous and dynamic lifestyle of pilots. With blue accents on the hands and strap, this ultra-legible and limited pilot's watch forgoes the black dial common to the classic Flieger design.
One of the key highlights of the IW3777-25 is its chronograph function, which includes a central chronograph hand, a 30-minute counter, and a 12-hour counter, making it a practical tool for timing events with precision. The day and date display at the three o'clock position adds to its functionality, while the anti-reflective sapphire crystal ensures a clear view of the dial under any lighting condition. Powered by the reliable IWC Caliber 79320 automatic movement, the watch offers a power reserve of 44 hours, ensuring consistent performance and accuracy.
Created for IWC's 150th birthday, IWC produced just 1,000 pieces for the limited edition of the IW3777-25. For the IWC collector or even just someone looking for a lighter take on the idea of a pilot's chronograph, this special model offers a fun take on the brand's classic design language.
Tudor Prince Date Chronograph 79260
First launched in 1995, the Tudor Prince Date Chronograph ref. 79260 is often considered one of the last of the famed watchmaker's classic vintage styles before the start of the modern era for the brand. With a downsized 40mm by 14mm "Big Block" case drawing its style from chronographs from Tudor years prior, the model is a solidly built, robust wearer, distinct on the wrist, and ready for anything with its 100m water resistance.
The 79260 is distinguished by its black aluminum tachymeter bezel. Additionally, the 79260 uses brushed lugs, differing once more from the more widely produced 79260P, the P in this reference indicating its use of polished lugs, instead. The wider 79000 reference family is an expansive group of watches, and the 79260 sits as one of the most classic designs within it.
With a silver-grey dial, white subdials, and that black bezel, this Prince Date Chronograph connects with a previous generation of Tudor that draws from the lineage of the Rolex Daytona and predates modern Tudors like the Black Bay and the Pelagos families.
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