ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Urwerk has been celebrating its 25th anniversary in 2022, and the Swiss independent recently announced its biggest release of the year (so far). The new Urwerk UR-120 is a direct sequel to the company's flagship UR-110 that first launched in 2011. The original UR-110 inaugurated a new type of wandering hour display system for the brand, which Urwerk has continued to iterate on in different ways in recent years with watches like the UR-100 and UR-220.
The new UR-120 is recognizably Urwerkian in that it uses a three-pronged satellite system mounted on a central carousel fixed with individual planetary gearsets that each rotate and represent the hours digitally – and yet its execution is entirely new for the brand. Founders Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner went back to the drawing board and reworked the entire mechanical process behind the UR-120's original satellite display, resulting in what I think is one of the most visually interesting – and downright coolest – Urwerk timepieces yet.
Timekeeping on the UR-120 is indicated when each arm passes over the sloped vertical minute track, which is placed on the far right side of the watch (the time reads approximately 11:37 in the above image). After an hour has passed, the hand that was actively displaying the time continues its rotation around the rest of the front-facing watch surface, but the digital hour now splits into two pieces, with each rotating separate from one another, before gradually coming back together to form an entirely new digit. (You can watch a video of the mechanism in action on Urwerk's website; I highly, highly recommend checking it out.)
When developing the new hour display mechanism, Urwerk was inspired by – surprise, surprise – the world of science fiction. Urwerk is no stranger to pulling from some of the most beloved science-fiction franchises for inspiration, and the UR-120 isn't subtle about its influence. Given the nickname "Spock" at launch, the watch's bifurcating hour mechanism is meant to share visual similarities with the famous Vulcan salute from Star Trek. It's a fun reference that isn't overly in-your-face but really comes alive once you compare the hand gesture and the watch side-by-side.
As you might imagine, the UR-120 is host to a pretty wild mechanical operation. There's a total of three revolutions that are pretty much continuously taking place. First, each carousel arm spins on a central axis. Then, on the individual displays, once the two parts of the arm begin to splinter, the now-separated rectangular studs spin on their own axis to eventually take the form of an upcoming hour. Once the split-up hour reaches its apex, a harp-shaped spring (that's manufactured in-house by Urwerk) forces the closure of the separated studs. Finally, Urwerk says that each satellite also has to counter-spin in order to remain upright and legible.
The new movement that controls this unique sequence of events is the UR-20.01, a self-winding caliber that's built around past Urwerk developments and that runs at 4 Hz with a 48-hour power reserve and features the company's proprietary, extra-efficient Windfänger winding system (which can also be found on the UR-100 series of watches).
I was fortunate enough to see a sneak preview of a UR-120 prototype when I visited Urwerk's recently opened Geneva headquarters during Watches & Wonders in March, and then I saw an actual production sample (the watch photographed for this story) during Geneva Watch Days last month.
I've found the best way to appreciate a watch like the UR-120 is to approach it as pure mechanical spectacle. And just like a big-budget science fiction film, the kinetic action of the UR-120's unique timekeeping display is best observed on the biggest screen possible. So it should be no surprise that the UR-120 is a sizable watch.
Its distinctive rectangular case shape measures 44mm × 47mm across and 15.8mm in height, but the end result is actually quite a bit more wearable than previous generations of Urwerk creations. Frei and Baumgartner paid particular attention to the user experience when developing the UR-120's case, and dedicated fans of the brand will likely be quick to notice that the overall case profile is much more fluid than what can be found in the company's archive. Urwerk accomplished this by utilizing a two-piece steel-and-titanium interconnected case architecture paired with a set of uniquely articulating lugs.
If you're used to wearing an Urwerk watch, the dimensions and case design of the UR-120 will likely feel pretty familiar, but those more accustomed to conventional watch design might struggle to find a comfortable fit the first few times they try it on. Still, a watch like Urwerk's "Spock" isn't really about its functionality, usability, or wearability – it's all about capturing a sense of awe by approaching something familiar through an entirely new and unexpected perspective.
I think the UR-120 succeeds in that regard more than any other watch released this year. It's completely out of this world.
The Urwerk UR-120 "Spock" is limited by production and carries a price of CHF 100,000, without tax. Case diameter, 44mm × 47mm; case thickness, 15.8mm. Sandblasted steel and titanium case with curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment. 30 meter water resistance. Embossed calf leather strap. UR-20.01 self-winding movement, with analog minutes and digital hour satellite mounted on planetary gears; Swiss lever escapement; 4 Hz frequency; 48-hour power reserve.
Top Discussions
Introducing TAG Heuer Refreshes The Aquaracer Professional 300
Auctions Sylvester Stallone's Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Leads New York Auction Week
Introducing Oris Turns The Divers Sixty-Five All-Black For Its 2024 Hölstein Edition