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What We Know
Unimatic has released the Modello Cinque, the brand's smallest watch yet. The new U5S-A and U5S-AN maintain the Milan brand's signature minimalist vibe, but now at 36 millimeters. Both of these new editions of the Modello Cinque are limited, featuring either a steel or blacked-out DLC case.
Like Unimatic's first four Modellos, the Cinque takes inspiration from sports watches, but strips it down to only the essentials. The U5S-A is the stainless steel model, while the U5S-AN is the blacked-out DLC version of the Modello Cinque. The dial is unmistakably Unimatic, using a design similar to that seen in most of its previous releases.
Everything about the Modello Cinque telegraphs its tool watch inspiration: Brushed case; matte black dial; glossy skeleton hands; oversized crown. The 36mm case is 11mm thick and about 44mm lug-to-lug. The lugs are relatively long but angled downward to fit the wrist nicely. The slim bezel and a sharply angled rehaut also means the Modello Cinque has a larger presence. The flat sapphire is 2.5mm thick, and it seems to be fitted in a bezel that sits above the midcase.
The Modello Cinque uses the automatic Sellita SW200-1, which beats at 4 Hz and has a 41-hour power reserve. And unlike the collab with Massena Lab that introduced the Modello Cinque last year, there's no date! In both models, it's hidden under a closed caseback.
Finally, Unimatic has introduced a better TPU rubber strap than those found on most of its previous releases. It's slimmer and tapers from the 22mm lugs to 20mm at the buckle. The Modello Cinque also comes with an additional black leather calfskin strap.
Both the steel U5S-A and the DLC U5S-A Modello Cinque are limited to 300 pieces. The steel has an MSRP of $840, and the black DLC is $960. Both are available in the Hodinkee Shop.
What We Think
I've always loved Unimatic's vibe, and for me, this is easily the most wearable Modello yet.
When I visited Unimatic last year, co-founder Simone Nunziato explained that the brand's design choices aren't just minimalism for its own sake.
"Minimalism is a good term, but it's not a choice," Nunziato said. "It's not minimalistic for the sake of it; it's because we don't need more."
The Modello Cinque continues this ethos, just in a smaller – and for many, more wearable – case size. It's closer to a field watch than a diver, though it maintains the diver-inspired dial familiar in previous Unimatic releases.
Honestly, the blacked-out DLC Modello Cinque isn't the most readable thing in the world, but I'll admit it looks pretty badass. Still, I prefer the stainless steel version with its white skeleton hands and markers. While the dial design is familiar, I would've loved to see Unimatic get a bit more experimental. With the smaller case size that leans more toward a field watch aesthetic, it would've been cool to see Unimatic do something that leans into this, maybe with Arabic numerals.
Since Unimatic uses a limited-edition drop model to sell its watches, no doubt it'll try out different designs in the years to come.
Another welcome update is the new TPU rubber strap. I never liked the rubber straps that come on many of Unimatic's previous releases – too plastic-y, inflexible, and downright uncomfortable. The new rubber strap fixes all of that, and Unimatic's also thrown in an additional calfskin leather strap if you want to dress up the Modello Cinque a bit.
Unimatic's Modello Cinque is a strong addition to the young brand's collection of design-driven tool watches. It's perfect for those who, like me, have always loved its watches but have felt they wear just a little too chunky (not that this ever stopped me from buying one). The simple black colorways in this first limited-edition release are classic and a good way to introduce the new model.
Much smaller than its previous Modellos, the Modello Cinque represents a divergence from what Unimatic has been known for. Now that it's off the ground, I'd love to see Unimatic use the platform to experiment with new designs too, while still staying true to the brand's established ethos.
The Unimatic Modello Cinque measures 36mm x 11mm (thick), and 44mm lug-to-lug, offered in both a stainless steel and black DLC case. 300 meters water resistance. Powered by an automatic Sellita SW200-1 with 41-hour power reserve and hacking seconds. Comes with a black TPU rubber strap (22mm lugs, tapers to 20mm) and additional black calfskin leather strap. These are Limited editions of the Modello Cinque, limited to 300 pieces each. MSRP: $840 (stainless steel); $960 (black DLC).
Shop this story
Learn more about Unimatic on the brand's website. The Hodinkee Shop is an authorized retailer of Unimatic watches, including the new Modello Cinque. Click here for the Unimatic Modello Cinque U5S-A and the Modello Cinque U5S-AN.
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