Omega watches</a>. Explore our entire collection of Seamasters <a href=\"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/omega-seamaster?utm_source=hodinkee&utm_medium=article&utm_campaign=disclosure-box\">here</a>. </p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"9a2037f4-0f52-445e-ba61-402247402b73","container_id":5282,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1519150446197-7ble1wynljp-c18ca1f126c673cc602287945349ffdc/Hero_2.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2018-02-09T10:30:01.461-05:00","updated_at":"2022-03-05T11:37:15.636-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1519150446197-7ble1wynljp-c18ca1f126c673cc602287945349ffdc/Hero_2.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/omega-seamaster-railmaster-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Omega Seamaster Railmaster","tags":[]},{"id":5255,"slug":"girard-perregaux-1966-wwtc-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Girard-Perregaux 1966 WW.TC","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2018-02-06T11:48:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2018-01-30T09:08:41.859-05:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:29.886-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>A simple, straightforward, and refreshing spin on Girard-Perregaux’s jet-setting WW.TC. </p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":46435,"public_token":"23ffb6fce5bf1df36fdafd6eb6d3d2ba","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While the idea of world time zones dates back to the 1870s and the work of Canadian Sandford Fleming, that innovation brought with it a new set of problems. Mainly, how to categorize and understand the staging of the zones, and then, how best to determine any one zone’s offset from your local time. Solutions therein are now myriad, from arrays of clocks set to various time zones in hotel lobbies, to GMT complications that range from simple 12-hour bezels all the way up to impressively complicated worldtimers. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Time Across The Globe"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Worldtimers come in many shapes and sizes and while some manage to account for the 30 and 15-minute offset zones (I’m looking at you Newfoundland) and the regrettable existence of DST, the base concept is a watch that offers an actively coordinated display of 24 standard time zones. The cities can vary, but the idea is that if the watch is set correctly in the user’s home zone, the display (often a 24-hour ring) will show the time in all of the other indicated zones. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ff13c3ee-3dc8-4e65-86be-93916cd13e64"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While some worldtimers function off of GMT/UTC offsets referenced against a 24-hour hand (like the Bremont ALT1-WT) or use a passive city disc referenced against a 24 hour hand (like my vintage Seiko 6117-6400), the measure of a true worldtimer is that the world time display is active and runs in step with the local display, allowing for the most fuss-free indication of world time. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The concept of a world time display, specifically the type where a city ring encircles the dial of an otherwise fairly standard time display, dates back to 1931 when a watchmaker named Louis Cottier developed the functionality to simultaneously show the world’s 24 standard time zones (using a 24 hour ring and an adjustable city disc). While Cottier would ultimately share this innovation with several brands, the functionality is most commonly attributed to Patek Philippe models from the late 30s, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-patek-philippe-reference-1415-world-timer-with-eurasia-enamel-dial-one-of-only-two-known-coming-up-at-sothebys/" target=\"_blank\">like the very early reference 1415</a>, the rectangular ref 515, or lovely early Calatrava-based examples like <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.christies.com/lotfinder/Lot/patek-philippe-a-historically-important-and-possibly-5493256-details.aspx/" target=\"_blank\">this ref 96.HU</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["aa6add96-448c-41d7-840f-1849a5501e3a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>By 1950, Cottier had developed a two-crown system that allowed simple setting of the city ring while protecting the display from accidental adjustment, just as we see on the 1966 WW.TC. This evolution of world time functionality was first seen on the Patek Philippe reference 2523 in 1953 and has arguably become <i>the</i> classic layout in the bloodline of worldtimers. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Cottier-style worldtimer would become a fixture in world time watches and the next big evolution for the complication arrived in 2011, when Vacheron Constantin showed their 37-time zone Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time at SIHH. Accounting for the international time zones that fall on 15 and 30-minute divisions, the Patrimony upped the ante and it remains the functional peak of modern worldtimer design. While other adaptations and expressions have been introduced, like the DST-tracking <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-with-the-glashtte-original-grande-cosmopolite-tourbillon/" target=\"_blank\">Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite</a>, the true worldtimer aesthetic of attempting to tame all the world’s time on a single dial has remained largely as Cottier imagined it back in the 30s.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Girard-Perregaux 1966 WW.TC "},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["f67ffa3d-737d-4123-85a3-99fd6e3f9af6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>All of this brings us to the Girard Perregaux 1966 WW.TC. Announced at SIHH in 2017, the 1966 WW.TC is a more reserved and dressy expression of the typically larger and more casual WW.TC range, which GP first premiered in 2000. While many of us would know the Girard-Perregaux WW.TC as a sporting 43mm+ cross between a chronograph and a worldtimer, the 1966 expression is a svelte 40mm with an eye towards simplicity, elegance, and balance. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I’ve long been a fan of the WW.TC, it was strange, offered in a litany of versions, and really seemed to be GP's play at creating a feature-packed watch for the modern jet set. They were made in everything from titanium to gold, and even as special editions for America’s Cup and Ferrari (to name only a few). Indeed, the variety is impressive and is part of what makes the 1966 WW.TC stand out. Here we find no chronograph, no power reserve, no date - just the time, small seconds, and world time. To my mind, this sort of reserved philosophy is where Girard-Perregaux really shines, with the 1966 WW.TC working well alongside its other 1966 family members. For many years, my (albeit infrequent) demand for a dress watch has fallen to a simple GP hand-winder from the 60s and this is likely where I developed my taste for the brand’s more simple and reserved designs. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ad1e9e1c-4b66-4743-893c-af9c4b2205bf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Two identical “GP” signed crowns flank the 1966 WW.TC’s 40mm steel case and the sub seconds sits balanced on the dial with nothing to spoil a rather profound symmetry. The idea of balance is almost useless, as aside from the minimal use of branding, I could split and mirror the 1966 WW.TC in Photoshop and most of you wouldn’t even notice. Likewise, the fully polished case is very nicely executed, but draws little attention to itself, save for its very short lugs and expansive dial proportion. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The dial is a lovely use of silver opaline with white metal markers, a blued steel hand for the sub seconds, and a split white/dark grey coloring for the 24-hour display (to let you better predict day and night in a given time zone). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["05cc8795-9b28-418b-ad4f-ca1b9fbdba94"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It’s hard to argue with the value of functionality without complexity, it’s why we like a simple Swiss Army knife, or why I love 12-hour bezels. With the 1966 WW.TC, that simple but useful display is powered by GP’s in-house caliber GP03300-0027. An automatic movement ticking at 4Hz, the GP03300-0027 has some 248 components (including 32 jewels) and boasts <i>Côtes de Genève</i> finishing and a power reserve of no less than 46 hours. Nicely finished and visible through the 1966 WW.TC’s display case back, during my use this movement kept excellent time and operated without issue. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Design"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1fb0c3c5-2c5e-437e-8d7c-5f748978e96b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you consider the idea of a minimal worldtimer (silly, yes), this would be it. Girard-Perregaux has distilled the 1966 WW.TC down to just the basics, and in a world that is constantly shouting the time at you (especially when traveling), I really appreciate this approach. Furthermore, from a brand possibly best known for using intricate bridges, tourbillons, and trick constant force escapements, the 1966 WW.TC is something of an outlier. It offers functionality attributed to complexity but does so with minimal visual baggage. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ff75447a-4b40-47df-9dcc-1c05f91e6650"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In operation, it would also be hard to make a worldtimer with much less than we find on the 1966 WW.TC. The three o’clock crown sets the time (along with the synchronized 24-hour display), and the nine o’clock crown aligns the city display. Once you have the local time set on the main display, just rotate the city disk until your local city aligns with the same time on the 24-hour ring. While both crowns do screw down, water resistance is only 3 ATM and I assume the screw down feature is to prevent the city disk from being errantly adjusted by a sleeve or the back of one’s wrist. Once set, the 24-hour display rotates along with the local hour display to ensure all 24 time zones remain coordinated. Impressively user-friendly, unlike some active worldtimers, both the time and reference city can be set in either direction on the 1966 WW.TC. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While simple in its display, the worldtimer offers a complication that is useful both for travelers or those who frequently interface with varied time zones. With the 1966 WW.TC on wrist, you can be free of the tyranny of typing “time” and then the name of a city into Google (at least for the 24 zones indicated on the dial). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["c4fe33e4-bafe-407d-b1d6-7841b703c69d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"right_rail"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>At 40mm wide, 12mm thick, and 46mm lug to lug, the 1966 WW.TC wears with an ease not common to either the WW.TC family or worldtimers at large. Weight too, even on the steel multi-link bracelet, is a reasonable 121g (when sized for my 7-inch wrist). If you don’t care for a bracelet, especially on a watch this dressy, there is an option of an alligator leather strap with a folding steel clasp. Additionally, for those wanting something a bit more luxurious, the 1966 WW.TC can also be had in pink gold on an alligator leather strap. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Providing you’re on board for the dressy look, the 1966 WW.TC wears really well on wrist. It’s small, but not so small that the world time display looks cramped. On the bracelet, it has a pleasant and noticeable weight, and the crystal does a good job of managing reflections, especially for being domed. The steel bracelet uses a comfy five-link design that lies flat and is secured by a double folding butterfly-style clasp. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["8c9fa404-91fa-41a0-a8cf-fe5953177d79"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It’s thin enough to slip under a cuff, and for a guy that frequently wears an old skindiver or a beat up Aerospace, the 1966 WW.TC feels really special. I like the simple font and the small sun and moon icons on the 24-hour ring. I like the added detail of the applied markers at 12, 3, and 9 and I like that the markers catch the light in the exact same way as the leaf-style hands. Oddly enough, after looking at the chunky markers and handsets common to other WW.TCs, I came to appreciate that there is no lume anywhere on the dial of the 1966. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Most of all, I love that GP solidified the design by leaving nothing superfluous. No additional complications, no attempt at representing the globe in the center of the dial (a pet peeve of mine), no wild use of color, nothing blocking the core displays. Yes, the Vacheron Overseas has more zones, but they are so tightly packed into the city ring that they become hard to resolve. Yes, the Frederique Constant is far cheaper, but the date display covers a good bit of the city disk. Yes, the Louis Vuitton Escale is a bit smaller and thinner, but you’ll likely be squinting to read any of the time zones. The GP feels confident, relaxed, and never seems to get in its own way. Most worldtimers are visually quite complicated, and the 1966 WW.TC’s simplicity is arguably its best feature. While the aging banker in the seat next to you breaks a sweat trying to determine the time zone in a new city on his Patrimony, you’ll be done in a glance. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["8a52f797-2e56-4a6d-b637-ab110868ce54"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Price comparisons for worldtimers can be tricky, as it’s a complication with more flavors than Ben and Jerry’s. That being said, with a list price of $13,000 USD ($12,300 on leather), the steel Girard-Perregaux 1966 WW.TC is certainly not cheap. Compared to a range of other steel worldtimers of similar size, we find the Frederique Constant around $3,500, the Montblanc Orbis Terrarum around $6,600, the 42mm Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One at $12,800, the nearly 42mm wide JLC Geophysic Universal Time at $14,000, and then we move on to much more expensive examples from VC, Patek, and Lange. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Within the 24-hour layout of a classic worldtimer, the 1966 WW.TC will definitely have to compete with the likes of the Chopard and the JLC mentioned above. I think that while all three are aesthetically quite different, they share a similar space and would be on the radar of any well-read buyer. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/chopard-luc-time-traveler-one-gmt-one-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">The Chopard L.U.C Time Traveler One</a> has a more youthful and sporty use of color and crown placement and does an excellent job of integrating a date without compromising the functionality of the world time display. The L.U.C also offers more water resistance, a longer power reserve, a luminous display, and a very nicely finished COSC movement. Compared to the GP, the Chopard is larger (+2mm) and the two share little in terms of styling.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["236c7b5c-45b3-4ee5-9431-ed84dc6f2d9d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Compared with <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-jaeger-lecoultre-geophysic-true-second/" target=\"_blank\">the 41.6mm Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Universal Time</a>, the GP also faces tough competition. While I vastly prefer the simple dial design of the 1966 WW.TC, it’s very hard to argue with the allure of literally any complication from JLC. Functionality has been aligned to a single crown and while visually more compressed and complicated than the 1966 WW.TC, the Geophysic Universal Time has an eye-catching use of color and, having had one on wrist, I can confirm that legibility is still quite strong.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e750580e-7612-4da8-8ee1-43897ad0b745"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>To my tastes, the Chopard is the most interesting and the best featured, the JLC the most conservative (to buy, not in design), and the 1966 WW.TC is the best size and the most classically minded. With a Cottier-style two-crown layout and no additional complications, this is the worldtimer for someone who wants to see those 24 time zones and little else. Despite being something of a fringe complication, the 1966 WW.TC is not without its competition and you could almost claim that, given a wide enough budget, today’s worldtimer enthusiast is spoiled for choice.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While the GP is not the cheapest, nor should it be, it does slot in nicely with comparable competition from JLC and Chopard. If you’re open to options up to 46mm, the lux worldtimer field becomes very crowded, with additional options from Breitling, IWC, Breguet, Zenith, Baume & Mercier, and many more. I, however, would suggest sticking to something a little more modest.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4a80bb89-221c-4983-90fa-54aefa255634"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>From the Zenith Doublematic to the Tissot Heritage Navigator, I love worldtimers and while it took me the better part of a year, I wanted to check out this new, smaller WW.TC. While the dressy look is not one that fits my day-to-day, I really hope we see this format ported to a new generation of every day (even sporty) WW.TCs that keep the accessible sizing and simple dial layout while offering just a bit of the strangeness that fueled my fascination of the WW.TC line many years ago (think titanium, rubber strap, and more impressive water resistance).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>By task and complication alone, worldtimers do a lot and Girard-Perregaux has been wise to let the 1966 WW.TC stick to its core competency as a worldtimer and confidently leave everything else to other watches. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.girard-perregaux.com/en/" target=\"_blank\">visit Girard-Perregaux online</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"80062222-172d-4a5e-a610-e5cb01574a63","container_id":5255,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1517321082987-w27r3d1nmhl-9f18d0a9340b24a22eba82572b6419c0/Girard-Perregaux-1966-wwtc-3.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2018-01-30T09:08:41.996-05:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:10:24.039-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1517321082987-w27r3d1nmhl-9f18d0a9340b24a22eba82572b6419c0/Girard-Perregaux-1966-wwtc-3.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/girard-perregaux-1966-wwtc-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Girard-Perregaux 1966 WW.TC","tags":[]},{"id":5124,"slug":"rolex-sky-dweller-stainless-steel-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Rolex Sky-Dweller In Stainless Steel","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2018-01-04T11:56:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2018-01-02T16:05:49.597-05:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:30.082-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>The most down-to-earth version yet of the Crown's high-flying traveler's timepiece.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":258127,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Sky-Dweller has always had a slightly contradictory character. It's the most complicated watch Rolex makes (in terms of mechanical complexity, it's only rivaled by the Yacht-Master II) and when it was introduced in 2012, it was only available in precious metals. At the same time, it's clearly intended to be an extremely practical watch – durable, easy to use, and easy to live with, even under the stress of navigating the world's increasingly unfriendly skies. However, in 2017, Rolex introduced two Rolesor versions of the Sky-Dweller (Rolesor is the company's term for its mixtures of steel with white or yellow gold) which immediately made this most practical of complicated watches, instantly more accessible. In Everose and on a strap, the Sky-Dweller is a $39,550 watch, and in white gold on a white gold bracelet it's $48,850, which obviously makes precious metal versions of the Sky-Dweller as much statement pieces as anything else. (Jay-Z has been frequently spotted wearing a yellow gold Sky-Dweller, for example.) Though we've done <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-sky-dweller-the-most-complicated-modern-rolex/" target=\"_blank\">A Week On The Wrist with a Sky-Dweller</a> before, that was an Everose model on a strap and with the newer, less overtly luxurious models out, we thought this would be a good time to revisit the Sky-Dweller. The new version in steel, with a white gold bezel, is now the most affordable model, at less than half the price of the precious metal versions, and that's the one we chose for our latest A Week On The Wrist.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a5a8b403-fd03-4563-9ee8-1da33a9bbcf9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Complications In The Rolex Sky-Dweller"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Sky-Dweller is a combination of two complications: a dual-time zone, or GMT complication, and an annual calendar. The former is easy to understand: the watch displays the time in two time zones simultaneously, and has an hour hand that can be independently set, forwards or backwards, in one-hour jumps. The latter is a feature of \"true\" GMT watches, as is the fact that the hour hand is set from the crown and can be re-set to a new timezone without stopping the entire watch. There are simpler dual time zone watches, which have a 24 hour hand that can be independently set, but to use them as a traveler's watch – that is, to display local time with the hour and minute hands, and home time with the 24 hour hand – generally requires quite a bit more fiddling with the crown and also involves stopping the watch while re-setting the hour and minute hands, thus requiring the user to also re-set to a time standard.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["927cec60-0b92-491a-81f8-411e86399f6d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The annual calendar is the second complication found in the Sky-Dweller, and is also relatively straightforward. The Gregorian calendar has days of varying length – some months have 31 days, and others have only 30. Most notably, February is the oddest man out, and depending on whether or not it's a Leap Year, can be either 28 or 29 days in length (29 in a Leap Year). A perpetual calendar watch automatically jumps to the first on the correct day at the end of the month, no matter the month (so, for instance, on February 28th in a non-Leap Year, and on February 29th in a Leap Year, the date will, at midnight, advance to March 1st). Thus, a perpetual calendar never needs to have the date adjusted manually. An <i>annual </i>calendar, on the other hand, \"knows\" (so to speak) if it's a 30 or 31 day month but it does <i>not </i>know to jump to March 1 on February 28th or 29th. Thus, an annual calendar needs to have the date manually re-set once a year. Of course, a standard calendar watch has to have the date advanced manually five times a year – once for each 30 day month, and once at the end of February.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The annual calendar has some significant advantages over the perpetual, although some of these have been eroded in the last couple of decades by advances in perpetual calendar design. Relative to perpetual calendars, annual calendars have been generally mechanically less complex, as well as less apt to be damaged by mishandling on the part of their owners. Interestingly enough, the annual calendar is a quite recent innovation in wristwatches – it wasn't until 1996 that the first patent for an annual calendar was granted, to Patek Philippe, who launched the complication in the reference 5035. Ironically, Patek's original design was actually relatively complex but just as with the perpetual calendar, the last couple of decades have led to increasingly reduced parts counts, and Rolex's annual calendar mechanism required the addition of only four wheels to the existing Rolex date mechanism.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Ring Command Bezel"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There is, arguably, a third complication in the Sky-Dweller: the Ring Command Bezel. The Ring Command Bezel was first introduced by Rolex in the Yachtmaster II – the other contender for Most Complicated Rolex. The Yachtmaster II was introduced by Rolex in 2007 and it's a regatta timer. You can set the countdown for any interval from one to 10 minutes, and if you need to re-synch your seconds hand to the starter's gun, you can do so by pushing the reset button while the chronograph is running. The seconds hand then flies back to zero and immediately begins running again, while the minute hand flies back to the nearest minute. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["73e3a4ed-11ff-4486-8dd9-b095c90df94b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2d347506-9ea6-4ab2-b505-2b79f4542e4c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In the Yachtmaster II, the Ring Command Bezel has two positions: neutral, and an active position reached by turning the bezel 90º to the left. Turning the bezel to the active position links the crown to the countdown minute hand, allowing the user to program the desired countdown duration (more in our Hands On<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-yachtmaster-ii-regatta-timer-ref-11680/" target=\"_blank\"> from 2015 right here</a>). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Reading The Sky-Dweller Calendar And Time Zone"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Before we get to the Ring Command Bezel's implementation in the Sky-Dweller, let's look at how the time and date are read off. Ideally, an annual calendar will offer some means of reading the month, which is necessary when setting the watch if the annual calendar is to do its thing accurately. The date can be read by checking the windows above the hour markers; since there are 12 months in a year, you can easily tell what month it is from the position of the red month marker. In the watch pictured, the 12th month – December – is indicated by the position of the red month marker at 12:00. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["66b09b55-0cdd-4a20-89e5-9ef653c36249"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["c583d473-1a92-45ed-8b3a-d1b1723b6569"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Reading off home time is straightforward as well; it's show by the rotating 24 hour ring which sits in the lower 2/3 of the dial (the triangle at 12:00 indicates the hour). This has the advantage of also showing whether it's AM or PM at home. The annual calendar is linked to local time, which is shown by the hour hand, so that the date shown (assuming you've set the time correctly forwards or backwards for the new time zone) will be correct for your local time zone.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The overall fit and finish of the dial and case, by the way, is extremely good; even under magnification the dial markers, hands and numbers are all crisply defined, with irreproachable attention to detail. Rolex's case and dial work is as uniformly excellent throughout its product lines as anything in the industry and what's just as important, this excellence is consistent from watch to watch, and contributes greatly to the positive impression Rolex watches generally seem to make. I'm always struck by this whenever I handle one for review – even with Rolex models I wouldn't necessarily wear on a daily basis myself, for reasons of either taste or practicality or cost, the general sense of exceptional build quality one gets is extremely high, from the humblest Oyster Perpetual to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-day-date-36mm-40mm-comparison/" target=\"_blank\">the most opulent Day-Date</a>. One of the most essential ways in which any luxury brand can keep faith with its customers is in paying as much attention to the details in its least expensive products as in its most expensive, and Rolex is one of the very few watch companies I've written about over the years, for which this has always seemed to be true.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Using The Ring Command Bezel On The Sky-Dweller"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The first thing you do when you take possession of a Sky-Dweller is set the time and date. In a watch with an annual calendar and dual time zone display, this would generally involve using some combination of the crown, and case pushers. The Ring Command Bezel is an alternative that allows all indications to be set with a crown that has only one setting position; although the mechanism is quite complex (over sixty additional parts) and requires a brief getting-acquainted period, it's extremely easy to use in practice.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6a62b524-41c1-4f90-b072-7df6a1ce7f36"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>To set the time, you first unscrew the crown and pull it out to the setting position. You then turn the bezel all the way to the left, as far as it will go (about 8:30 on the dial). This stops the second hand and engages hand setting; you can then set the time. In this position the hour hand and the 24 hour ring are kept synchronized.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Once you've set local and home time, you can change local time by unscrewing the crown and setting the bezel in its second position, by turning it to about 9:30. This engages the crown with the setting mechanism for the hour hand alone, which can now be set forwards or backwards in one hour increments (the date will switch at midnight as well, either forwards or backwards as needed). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2b436753-7ef3-4817-a74c-dc537a2034a3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Turn the bezel to the first setting position (about 9:30 on the dial) and you can set the month and date. There's no separate quickset for the month, so you basically just keep turning the crown until the red indicator for the month is at the correct window (it will switch automatically from the 30th to the 1st, in 30 day months) and the correct date is shown.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The system is undoubtedly mechanically complex, but it is quite straightforward and simple in use. You can feel the position of the bezel as you move it thanks to very pleasantly engineered detents at each of the setting positions, and the whole system is not only satisfying to use, but a lot of fun as well, and certainly unlike anything you will find from any other brand. You also get a much cleaner case than you would if there were external pushers for setting the calendar or the local time, and greater ease of use than if you had to use a stylus for recessed pushers.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Road And In Air With The Sky-Dweller"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["38443648-3538-4b2b-8978-57f96eb93df2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>On both occasions that I've had a Sky-Dweller from Rolex for a test drive, I've also been able to take the watch on a test flight – this time, a quick business trip to London. Setting up the watch was very straightforward, and, as I've mentioned, fun as well. As I expected, in steel and white gold the Sky-Dweller feels very different from the frank opulence of the Everose model, and as it's lighter than the all white gold version, it definitely seems less ostentatious. I don't know that the Sky-Dweller would feel particularly utilitarian even in steel-only (though I think it would be great to have an all steel version of the watch) as it's too large, and too brightly polished to ever project the tool-watch bluntness of some other Rolex sports models, but you certainly don't feel as mogul'd up as you would with something in yellow gold or Everose. And of course, the steel and white gold model is almost entirely steel anyway.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Putting on the Rolesor version of the Sky-Dweller was a very different experience from putting on the Everose version I wore for our last Week On The Wrist with this model. As you'd expect, at 42mm in diameter and 14.10mm thick, the Everose version is a relatively heavy watch and a thoroughly luxurious one. The Rolesor version on a bracelet, thanks to its generally less extroverted character, feels to me, and will, I suspect, feel to anyone who travels primarily for business rather than pleasure, much lower key; it's a much less a status-in-the-lounge and more a standing-in-line-at-a-security-checkpoint kind of watch (and I mean that in a good way). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0ad16cac-2cfb-4fc2-aa92-859ffd4d82f0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>That said, it still feels like a luxury watch, but that's very much down to the excellent build quality throughout, rather than any use of luxury materials <i>per se. </i>Combining stainless steel and white gold (when I wore this watch on a late 2017 episode of Friday Live I mistakenly said the middle links and bezel were white gold, which several readers quite rightly corrected; <i>mea culpa</i>) is an intriguing decision, because obviously it's very hard to tell which is which; there's something almost perverse about it. It's not something you have because it does anything in terms of projecting status, but I will say, it is, in a way I didn't expect, nice to know it's there. There is just something a little magical about a bit of gold, be it yellow, white, or Everose.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1e557970-7841-44e2-925d-94892e8c8cbe"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>However, the luxury you get from the white gold and steel Sky-Dweller is largely that of something built and engineered with great care, attention to detail, and precision, not a luxury of materials or a luxury of manually executed decorative techniques.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Just as with the dial, dial furniture and hands, Rolex makes some of the best bracelets in the business; sized to fit my seven inch wrist, the Sky-Dweller was immediately comfortable and the visual impact of the electric-blue dial made it very enjoyable to wear. I generally like to re-set the time on my watch a few hours before landing, to just sort of get used to the idea of being in a different time zone gradually. In theory, you would think that recalling which of the bezel positions is used for re-setting local time might be difficult – one of my first thoughts on getting reacquainted with the Sky-Dweller was that some sort of function indicator would be nice – but in reality, I didn't have any problem, even in the bleary dimness of a redeye flight cabin, remembering that two clicks to the left was correct. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fca49d9d-3b84-41af-9814-316bccfbe179"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The reality is that once the watch is set up, you're just not going to have to touch the Ring Command Bezel that often, which given how enjoyable it is to use is almost a shame. You'll need to remember that position 2 is for resetting the local time when you fly, and you'll also need to remember that position 1 is for setting the date when you get to the end of February, but that's once a year. And, obviously, the only time you'll use position 3 is if for some reason you haven't worn the watch for longer than 72 hours and you need to re-set the time. You probably won't have to do that very often, either, at least not if your Sky-Dweller performs like mine – over a week and a half it gained maybe half a second a day, if that.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"right_rail"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ac0463b9-9421-4e77-ae2a-6ca434a36b12"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Interestingly enough, there are not many annual calendar watches with GMT complications out there, which is perhaps not surprising given the fact that the annual calendar is itself a somewhat rare complication (there are actually significantly fewer annual than perpetual calendars on the market in any given year). With a white gold bezel and steel case and bracelet, the Sky-Dweller is $14,400; a competing watch from Blancpain is the Villeret Annual Calendar GMT (our Hands On <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/blancpain-annual-calendar-gmt-steel-hands-on/" target=\"_blank\">is right here</a>) which in steel and on a steel bracelet is $23,700. The Sky-Dweller, of the two, is the larger watch (the Blancpain is 11.04mm x 40mm) and certainly the more outgoing of the two and if you like interacting with a machine that revels in its machine-ness, the Sky-Dweller's your baby. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I liked the Everose Sky-Dweller on a strap and it would not be painful to wear it on a daily basis at all, but the steel and white gold version feels less like a celebration of status or achievement, and more like a trusted ally in the endless battle against disorientation and jet lag. In any case, I don't think the Sky-Dweller really has any competition, at least not as an apples-to-apples comparison – the design, implementation of the annual calendar and second time zone display, and of course, the Ring Command Bezel all put it in a class of one.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>The Rolex Sky-Dweller Ref. 326934: case and bracelet, 904L steel with white gold bezel, 42mm x 14.01mm, water resistant to 100 meters. Sapphire crystal with date cyclops. Movement, Rolex in-house caliber 9001 with center seconds, minutes and hours; independently settable hour hand and home time indication by 24 hour ring; annual calendar. Setting via the crown, controlled by Ring Command bezel, with 72 hour power reserve. More information, as well as an </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rolex.com/watches/baselworld/new-sky-dweller/m326933-0001.html/" target=\"_blank\"><i>interactive setting guide, at Rolex.com.</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"f51f5fde-6327-4b1c-87e8-7dee2fde98ed","container_id":5124,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1514925170182-adpo89wbcec-f61ed8d909caecf3a38b8d9d8e1232a0/hero.jpg","width":4994,"height":2809,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2018-01-02T16:05:49.653-05:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:10:40.500-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1514925170182-adpo89wbcec-f61ed8d909caecf3a38b8d9d8e1232a0/hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-sky-dweller-stainless-steel-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Rolex Sky-Dweller In Stainless Steel","tags":[]},{"id":4929,"slug":"cartier-tank-americaine-steel-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Cartier Tank Américaine In Steel","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-11-14T13:18:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2017-11-01T14:08:58.266-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:30.278-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>Going back to basics for the Tank's 100th birthday.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":155232,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":"CARTIERROUNDUP","apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Anniversary watches are a difficult breed. Contemporary watchmakers have a tendency to use any birthday ending in a \"5\" or a \"0\" as an excuse to create some dolled-up version of a well-known (or sometimes not-so-well-known) product as a way to manufacture demand, scarcity, and press. I often find that these watches leave me cold when taken on their own, and feeling disappointed when they interrupt an otherwise interesting and compelling history.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Imagine my concern when it was announced in January that sometime this year we would be getting a collection of watches celebrating the 100th anniversary of the Cartier Tank. This is no 45th birthday and no \"I think I've heard of that\" watch. The stakes seemed pretty high, as far as watch-related stakes are concerned. The Tank is one of the most iconic watches of all time, and I do not use that word lightly here. I also do not think it would be an understatement at all to say that the Tank turning 100 is an event of genuine interest and importance in the history of the wristwatch writ large.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So, I waited. Then, on September 1, the announcement was made. We were getting a handful of new Tanks for the centennial, including <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-tank-louis-cartier-anniversary/" target=\"_blank\">a few with diamonds</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-tank-cintree-skeleton-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">one with a curved, skeletonized movement</a>. But the one that really caught my eye was the most understated of them all: the Tank Américaine in stainless steel. Would this turn out to be the subtle anniversary watch I was hoping for? Would it have the right little historical nods while being a quality ticker in its own right? Would it feel like something I would want beyond the context of the Tank turning 100? Just a few weeks later I had one on my wrist, and I got to answer all my own questions.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But first, some history.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A History Of Curved Tanks"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["811be6a2-a4cc-4f3e-a250-ff9e0f4d7754"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Tank watch was first introduced in 1917, hence this year's centenary celebration. That original watch was a rectangular watch, nearly square like its cousin the Santos, with large rails (sometimes called <i>brancards</i>, the French for \"stretcher\") on either side of the Roman numeral dial, and a design that was, at the time, unlike anything else out there. Quickly, Cartier began to iterate on the Tank, creating different sub-families of Tank watches with different profiles, different dial variations, and different histories.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4b1ecfc0-50ae-4534-9900-60b65404482e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A big moment in the Tank's history came in 1921, with the introduction of the Tank Cintrée (which literally means \"curved\"). This was the very first time the Tank had a curved case, something that has been a mainstay of the collection ever since. Let's remember that in 1921 the concept of the wristwatch was still a new and somewhat controversial one, and non-round wristwatches were still rare. Now, a <i>curved</i>, rectangular watch? Think about it. What seems elegant and traditional to us today was actually revolutionary. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["2050b614-9fec-4b31-843f-665aa2e95808"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In addition to introducing the curved case, the Cintrée also displayed a new kind of dial too. The chapter ring was curved on the ends to echo the curvature of the case, and this left a lot more negative space in the dial, making the Roman numerals really stand out, drawing the eye out to the edge and the case.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>While the Tank is, at its core, a rectangular watch, it's not always that same basic shape that probably pops into your head when you first think \"Tank.\" There are Tanks that swivel in their cases, that are asymmetrical, and that use jump-hour displays. Check out Franco Cologni's book <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.amazon.com/Cartier-Watch-Franco-Cologni-1998-01-15/dp/B01K3O1VAA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509569525&sr=8-3&keywords=the+tank+watch+cologni\%22 target=\"_blank\"><i>Cartier: The Tank Watch</i></a> if you want to learn more. </p>","title":"Variations On A Theme","images":["51a1737c-895f-4daf-b888-d68c5d609fdb"],"alignment":"left"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>All of this isn't to say that the Cintrée was a runaway hit from day one, never faltering though. In fact, after an explosion in popularity in the early 1920s (the Cintrée was <i>the</i> watch to have in Parisian society then), it was dropped from the line-up altogether sometime in the early 1930s. According to Franco Cologni in his comprehensive book <i>Cartier The Tank Watch: Timeless Style</i>, it was \"considered too '1925'\" by then. Luckily, Cartier New York brought the watch back with an Americanized version with Arabic numerals, called the Curved Tank in 1933. Eventually the Cintrée proper would be resurrected in Europe, bringing back the more classic dial style and slightly wider profile.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>We're going to jump forward in history a bit now. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-mansion-history-pearls-plant/" target=\"_blank\">Plenty happened with Cartier and the Tank</a> during the middle part of the twentieth century, and the stack of books I have next to me as I write this is proof that trying to give you an exhaustive history of every Tank variation and every little bit of apocrypha here would be a lost cause. So, on we forge to the introduction of the Tank Américaine in 1989.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["64274835-290c-4e8b-8484-b8e31ec2a351","6f621693-c2bc-46ae-a679-f9ffa1988837"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Originally created in just yellow gold, the Tank Américaine was a response to the changing tides of watch trends. The late 1980s and early 1990s were the beginning of the era of large watches, and Cartier was trying to create something a bit more substantial that might convince someone looking for a heftier piece to wear a Tank instead. The watch was clearly inspired by the Cintrée of old, with its curved case and curved chapter ring, but it differed in a number of ways. One important distinction is that the reverse of the case has a flat (or flat-ish) caseback instead of the dramatically curved caseback of the Cintrée. The result is a watch that still appears curved while being technically easier to manufacture, though you do feel the difference on the wrist a bit.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"inline","quote":"<p>What seems elegant and traditional to us today was actually revolutionary. </p>","source":""},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Since then, the Américaine has been made in many different versions, with date functions, chronographs, and other complications included from time to time. However, these have always been made in precious metals, most often yellow and pink gold (white gold models weren't introduced until 1995, the same year Cartier added the option of a bracelet to the Américaine).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["f89af67e-557c-4f01-adee-69a9625d9018"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Some of the most collectable and desirable Tanks from over the years – Cintrée and otherwise – are white metal versions. These are exceedingly rare, with many models existing only in platinum in single-digit numbers. So it feels fitting that to commemorate 100 years of the Tank, Cartier would take an important model and render it in a white metal. Choosing the Américaine, the most modern Tank silhouette inspired by one of the oldest, and making it in steel, takes it to the next level.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Tank Américaine In Steel"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["62c10a72-cdb7-4958-ac7e-7b36f628f1e2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now onto the watch in question. This is the Tank Américaine, and it is in stainless steel for the very first time. It's also at a much more approachable price point, sitting at $5,100 as you see it here. Up until now, the Américaine has been made in precious metals only, placing it at a far higher price point and making it less of an everyday watch. There are three sizes of the new steel model available, with the small containing a quartz movement, and both the medium and large containing an automatic movement. I opted to review the medium, as it suits my wrist size best. For the most part, everything you read here applies to the large as well, though the proportions are a little bit different. The large model is a little wider, which to my eye isn't quite as elegant as the elongated medium form, despite being closer to the original Tank Américaine proportions (with the medium being more Cintrée-like). However, again, that's down to personal preference. Technically and structurally speaking, the two are identical.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Case"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1bbac70e-dae0-43d1-b05a-ffea132ce9a4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As with any watch, the case is critical here; but, more so than with most watches, the case is one of this watch's biggest distinguishing features and most compelling selling points. First off, it's stainless steel. The medium size measures 41.6mm x 22.6mm, while the smaller model comes in at 34.8mm x 19mm ($4,000) and the larger at 45.1mm x 26.6mm ($5,750). To me, the result is a watch that works for both men and women, nodding a bit to vintage sizes without appearing dainty.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Cartier's done a nice job adding interest to what could have been a rather plain design too. The brushed sides and polished rails give the edges visual definition, making the watch appear much punchier and better defined. A single finish would have resulted in something that looked sort of amorphous and, for lack of a better term, blobby. The case we have looks extremely architectural, with the intersecting sections of the case creating points of interest where they meet.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["887ea4fe-1196-4fef-b040-062d0ab38ffa"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now, look at the watch from the side. You really get a sense of the curvature and how nicely balanced it is. Then there's the crown, with the quintessentially Cartier look of a blue stone set into geometric metal. However, it's worth noting that here it's a synthetic spinel cabochon looking back at you, not a sapphire. Considering the price of this watch and what a real sapphire would add, I can't argue with this decision at all. If the watch were platinum, we'd be having a different conversation, but Cartier made the right call here.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1560b79c-15f7-4982-9b39-048df3c98973"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One of the stand-out design traits of the Cintrée has traditionally been its curved caseback that gives the watch a completely crescent-shaped profile. That's not the case with the Américaine. If you look here, you'll notice that the curved front portion of the case is anchored by a caseback that is flat but with curved sides that rise up to meet the case itself. To accommodate the automatic movement here, the caseback itself has some depth, but you notice it much more on a table than on the wrist.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In total, the package comes in at 9.5mm thick at the center, the thickest point. While the watch doesn't wear like an ultra-thin – or a vintage Cintrée, for that matter – it does have a relatively svelte profile that is in good proportion to its size. Finally, while you probably won't be taking this watch diving (and you shouldn't, for a lot of reasons), the Tank Américaine is water resistant to three bars of pressure, or approximately 30 meters.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Dial"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b020bcb9-e7e7-40c7-87fd-278c79496a26"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Once you get past the basic form, there's the brilliant sunburst-finish dial waiting for you. All the things you'd expect are there and intact – the black radiating Roman numerals, the \"Cartier\" signature hidden in the number seven, and the chapter ring that curves at the top and bottom. You'll notice though that there are three blued steel hands instead of the more traditional two. This is to show the running seconds, as there's an automatic movement beating away inside.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e17f75eb-9441-420a-ac60-a749f00a8418"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Another point of differentiation here is the finish of the dial. There is no guilloché center or contrasting outer edge. No, the entire thing has a uniform sunray finish on the silvery ground. While I'm a sucker for some good guilloché work, I much prefer this cleaner execution for a watch like this. It keeps it from feeling too much like a throwback and the even surface allows the bold black printing to stand out and the blue hands to be instantly legible.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["17f32b1a-6468-4411-8c67-6341c3a30efd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As I mentioned, this watch is automatic. This is a mixed bag for me. I'm thrilled that the watch isn't quartz (except in the smallest size). That would have been a really easy thing for Cartier to do, and, to be totally honest, most customers looking at this watch probably wouldn't even notice or care. However, I do wish the watch was a manual-winder. There would be something <i>so</i> charming about taking this off and carefully winding it every day or two. Just thinking about it gets me excited.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Ultimately, I'm going to count the automatic movement as a win. Cartier isn't providing any details on the movement inside, but from the dimensions of the case we know it's got to be one that's relatively small. Beyond the fact that it's automatic and has a central seconds hand, I'm as in the dark as you are.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>Update: Though Cartier has not confirmed this, we have it on good authority that the unnamed movement in question is an ETA 2671. This is a 17.2mm diameter automatic with 25 jewels and a 38-hour power reserve. It's nothing fancy, but it's a small, reliable movement well-suited to a watch like this.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Strap And Buckle"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c98039a0-d948-4b90-a51b-ebac9b882049"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The strap and buckle for this watch are a bit unusual. When you first pick the watch up, you'll notice that there are no holes at all on either side of the strap. You've got two identical pieces of rich blue alligator, each of which has a semi-matte finish and comes to a point at the end. Accompanying the watch is a steel folding buckle in the shape of the familiar Cartier logo. I legitimately had to ask one of my colleagues (shout out Cara!) how the heck to get this on my wrist. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ea60ea94-33e5-41dd-8cae-c423e13cfdad"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Essentially you thread the two sides of the strap through two parts of the buckle, loop them back to lock it all in, and then wear-away. This makes it infinitely adjustable on both sides, so you can get the right fit. I had some reservations about this idiosyncratic system when I first pulled the Tank out of its packaging, but more on that in a bit (spoiler alert: it's great).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A Week On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["46a30832-e0ca-4f18-8339-4c7cef7189b2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It probably won't surprise you, but from the moment I strapped the Tank Américaine to my wrist, I was smitten. There aren't too many designs that can go relatively unchanged for 100 years while remaining relevant, but I challenge anyone to put a Tank on their wrist and tell me that it's stale or ugly. Sure, it might not be everyone's personal taste, but from as objective a perspective as is possible, the Tank is a well-designed wristwatch through and through.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a575f2a4-6764-44d6-843a-e8eb33d59992"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Américaine case sits extremely well on the wrist. In the medium size, it's not so small as to feel precious (at least not on my wrist – and there's a size up if you're worried about that) but it still sits <i>on</i> the wrist, without hanging over. I find rectangular watches tend to suffer from the overhang problem that makes them feel clumsy and ungainly. No such problem here. Also, while the back of the watch isn't curved like with the Cintrée, the way the caseback and lugs create some negative space on the rear of the watch makes it wear almost like it is curved. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"inline","quote":"<p>There aren't too many designs that can go relatively unchanged for 100 years while remaining relevant...</p>","source":""},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In addition to the steel case making it a little more robust, it also makes this model much lighter in weight than its gold counterparts. There's enough heft that you know you've got a mechanical movement inside (I find even the gold quartz Tank watches feel a little light on my wrist), but I wore the watch all day, every day for a week and had zero comfort issues. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bb66fc8f-0ef4-4575-9ca1-34ae5810da14"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>However, I had two concerns right off the bat: 1) That the folding clasp would prove to be a pain point (literally) and 2) That the watch would look a little too dressy for my daily life. I'm happy to report that neither of these was a problem in reality. The folding clasp shocked me – I'm a known detractor of the deployant buckle and champion of the simple pin. While setting up the strap and buckle takes a few minutes, once you've got it all set, the package wears like it has a pin buckle. I'd be just as happy without the special clasp, but it's there and I didn't mind it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["01dc6856-d540-4e62-8638-66e8be695a94"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The second question is another subjective one, but I think the Américaine straddles the dressy/casual line much better than I expected. I wore it to a few meetings in a suit, for a night out with my wife in a sportcoat, and to the office with a classic grey sweatshirt, and it never felt out of place to me. It's definitely more at home with something tailored (or at least a cashmere sweater), but there's something that feels very old-school preppy about wearing a Tank with casual wear that I enjoyed. I'll go right out and say it: To me, this qualifies as an everyday watch. No question in my mind.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["57bafeeb-4bcf-4c4b-9225-650e09591f4a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you're with me so far, there's one big question left to answer: What else is out there? To me, this relatively generic question can carry massively different connotations depending on what type of watch you're talking about. In the case of the Tank Américaine, I think the task at hand is finding what watches are available that mix traditional and modern styling, sell for $4,500-6,500, and have a bit of history to lean on. Here are a few that come to mind.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Medium Thin"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["c8672e5a-8416-4f5a-938b-95debfa2a80a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The most obvious competitor to any Tank is a similar Reverso. The <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/us/en/watches/reverso/reverso-classic-medium-thin-monoface-manuel/2548520.html/" target=\"_blank\">Reverso Classic Medium Thin</a> is probably the closest thing Jaeger-LeCoultre makes to the Tank Américaine right now. It's about the same size, has a silver dial with blue hands, and has a slim mechanical movement inside (this one is manually-wound, FYI). At $5,300, it's a hair less expensive than the Tank, but not by much. To me, the question here is one of style and by now you've probably already decided which you prefer.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Grand Seiko SBGW253"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["2da78953-b1ed-411b-8bb2-998926134435"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Alright, it's not rectangular, but I think the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://grand-seiko.us.com/collections/SBGW253//" target=\"_blank\">Grand Seiko SBGW253</a> ticks a lot of the same boxes as the Tank Américaine. It also comes in at a similar price point, retailing for $5,700 (if you can still find one – it's a limited edition of 1960 pieces). The watch has an elegant profile, a modestly-sized 38mm case, and a clean, legible dial. The mix of white, silver, and blue verges on austere without quite getting there, and if you swap out the black croc strap it can wear much more casually than you'd expect.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Others?"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Other than these two watches, I struggled to come up with good alternatives to this Tank. Some of that is due to what I believe is the genuine strength of the design and the relative uniqueness of what it's offering in the marketplace; some of it is down to the dearth of rectangular watches available today, since they tend to sell far worse than round watches. If you think I've missed anything, let me know in the comments below. I'm genuinely curious to see what you come up with.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["34d22cc0-062c-402e-9092-8630ef0a770b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you couldn't tell already, I'll come out and say it flat out: The stainless steel Tank Américaine is an excellent watch. Like, a <i>really</i> excellent watch. It's well-made and well-priced, and it balances historic design with adding something new to the portfolio. It's a watch that I think a lot of people could make their only watch, while being equally appealing to someone who is a collector of vintage or modern watches, with more than a few options for what to strap on each morning. I'll even go as far as to say that this is one of my favorite watches of the year so far. It's just that good.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Zooming out a bit, the Tank Américaine makes me happy for other reasons too. It's proof that celebrating an iconic watch's birthday doesn't need to be done with a pile of diamonds or a handful of tourbillons to be successful. For a watch as refined as the Tank, marking its centennial with something like this seems a much more fitting tribute – and one that will ensure the Tank is as relevant come its 150th anniversary as it is today.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.cartier.com//" target=\"_blank\">visit Cartier online</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"416d6e01-38a2-4904-9abd-a3fa8614992c","container_id":4929,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1509559514296-8145dnftmex-700407e91a434bc7c54a511305024142/IMG_2731.JPG","width":2048,"height":1152,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2017-11-01T14:08:58.358-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:11:15.200-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1509559514296-8145dnftmex-700407e91a434bc7c54a511305024142/IMG_2731.JPG?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-tank-americaine-steel-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Cartier Tank Américaine In Steel","tags":[]},{"id":4832,"slug":"grand-seiko-spring-drive-snowflake-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Grand Seiko Spring Drive Snowflake SBGA211","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-10-11T13:13:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-10-09T16:09:37.405-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:30.570-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>The Spring Drive Snowflake is a major Seiko fan favorite for a reason.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":482330,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA011 is better known to Grand Seiko fans simply as the \"Snowflake,\" and it's probably the single most iconic model for Grand Seiko Spring Drive, having been first introduced in 2010 (hard to believe). In the seven years since its release it's become a huge fan favorite, and a much-lauded critics' darling as well, with praise lavished on its unique dial, and the general fit and finish so characteristic of Grand Seiko as well. Interestingly, Grand Seiko has never offered this dial with any other movement than Spring Drive and in fact, the characteristics of the Spring Drive movement are essential to the overall impact of the watch as a whole – with a conventional automatic movement, or with a conventional quartz movement, this would be a very different experience on the wrist, in perhaps subtle but unmistakable ways. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d51eb61c-c3ca-455f-8787-5723e71804b3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are really two parts to the Snowflake story: one is the aesthetics in general, and the other is the Spring Drive movement. The Snowflake is a very calmness-inducing watch – the subtle play of light on the dial, with its resemblance to a field of newly fallen, lightly drifted snow, and the silent, smooth glide of the blued steel seconds hand, combine to give a feeling of time flowing uninterruptedly, but also unhurriedly, and one seems to see time almost from a timeless perspective, as one is supposed to when deeply absorbed in meditation. By contrast, a mechanical watch presents time as a series of oscillations – the frequency of the balance is visible in the stuttering forward motion of the seconds hand, which jumps forward once per swing of the balance as the escape wheel unlocks.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_left"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A quartz watch works somewhat differently. The quartz crystal vibrates 32,768 times per second; it does so because quartz is a piezoelectric material – that is, it deforms mechanically when you pass an electric current through it. Piezoelectric materials also generate electricity when they're mechanically deformed, which means you can easily count the number of times per second the crystal is vibrating (you just count the number of electrical pulses it generates). The frequency is chosen for a simple reason: 32,768 is the fifteenth power of two, and by dividing the pulses from the crystal by two repeatedly, you can easily get a one second interval. The integrated circuit that does the division, then signals a stepper motor to advance the seconds hand one increment. This one second jump was characteristic of the long-obsolete duplex escapement, a variation of which was much used for watches for the Chinese market in the 19th century; in <i>Watchmaking, </i>George Daniels remarked, \"This system was once held in high esteem by the Chinese who despised crawling seconds hands on their watches.\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["44c6d702-b236-44c4-851f-d1b16b94a7a7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is merely to point out that the action of the seconds hand naturally tends to become an important part of our perception of both the flow of time, and of the character of a wristwatch. This is so much the case, that a watch that beats dead seconds – a so-called deadbeat seconds complication – is often despised by mechanical watch enthusiasts, who find it too reminiscent of a quartz watch (even the Rolex name was not enough to make the complication commercially successful, as witness the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-restoration-of-a-rolex-tru-beat-caliber-1040-reference-6556/" target=\"_blank\">obscurity of the Rolex Tru-Beat</a>). Very high frequency quartz watches can give the illusion of smooth continuous movement, as can high-beat mechanical watches, but Spring Drive is the only wristwatch technology with true continuous forward motion.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Evolution Of Spring Drive"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As with any basic advance in timekeeping technology, the Spring Drive had a long and sometimes painful gestation. The original idea was pioneered by Yoshikazu Akahane, an engineer at Seiko Epson in Shiojiri, Nagano Prefecture (now called the Shinshu Watch Studio to reflect its concentration on Grand Seiko Spring Drive and Grand Seiko quartz watches; it's also the home of the Micro Artist Studio, where high end Spring Drive watches like the Eichi II and Credor chiming complications are made). Akahane began experimenting with the idea in the late 1970s (the date usually given is 1977 or so) and the first patents were issued for the concept in 1982. However, it was not until 20 years had passed that Seiko presented the movement publicly, at Baselworld in 1997. In 1998, the first commercially available Spring Drive watches were released.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ac9555fa-051b-442c-9ecf-2f7bab16eee3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are several reasons that it took so long. A Spring Drive movement has a quartz oscillator in it, but there the resemblance ends between it and a conventional quartz watch. A quartz watch has a battery; Spring Drive does not, and moreover, a quartz watch may or may not have hands – as HODINKEE Editor-at-Large Joe Thompson notes, many of the earliest <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/four-revolutions-quartz-revolution/" target=\"_blank\">commercially successful quartz watches were digital, not analogue</a> – while in Spring Drive the hands are essential (there's no way to build a digital display Spring Drive watch). Spring Drive watches, moreover, are powered by mainsprings; there is no equivalent in quartz watchmaking. The closest relatives are probably Seiko's Kinetic and the Swiss Autoquartz calibers, but these are standard quartz watches with the addition of a rotor-driven micro-generator that tops up a rechargeable battery. In fact, a Spring Drive watch is indistinguishable technically from any other mechanical watch, right up to where the escape wheel would be in a standard watch movement.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["63786de7-837f-409b-a514-ab97b014d10c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Where the escape wheel, lever, and balance would be in a conventional watch, we find instead what Seiko calls the Tri-Synchro Regulator. \"Tri\" refers to the three types of energy present in the regulating system: magnetic, from the glide wheel; mechanical; from the mainspring; and electrical, from the quartz crystal. The last gear in the going train turns the so-called glide wheel, which has at its hub a permanent magnet. This turns between two electromagnets located at one end of a pair of wire-wrapped coils and the whole thing functions as an electrical generator (the glide wheel acting as the rotor) in accordance with Faraday's Law, which says that a conductor moving in a magnetic field will generate a current. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The current generated goes to an integrated circuit and quartz crystal, which vibrates as the current passes through it, and the IC counts the oscillations. However, rather than dividing by two until a one second interval is counted off, and then sending a signal to a stepper motor, the IC passes energy back to the electromagnets surrounding the glide wheel. Here electrical energy becomes magnetic force, and this exerts a braking energy on the glide wheel; the amount of electrical energy fed back is precisely controlled so that the glide wheel turns eight times a second exactly. Thus, the glide wheel ensures that the mainspring unwinds in a controlled fashion, in the same way that the escape wheel, lever, and balance (and balance spring) of a conventional watch control the rate at which the mainspring unwinds. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["7fd2fcd6-1fb0-4a0f-8a3d-033329ff7537","7f85d972-69b0-4183-affd-da9c8c4db703"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In essence, therefore, Spring Drive movements are mechanical, but with an electromagnetic escapement regulated by a quartz oscillator. One of the reasons development of Spring Drive took so long, is because the amount of energy generated is extremely tiny. To be usable in a commercial watch, it was necessary to develop a special low-energy-consumption integrated circuit, and as well, the coils had to be wound with very thin copper wire, in order to ensure the maximum number of turns around the coil itself. For this purpose, a special type of wire was developed with an hexagonal cross section, allowing the coils to be wound with no gaps – not even microscopic ones – between the turns of the wire, which means greater total length in a given volume. You can actually see the difference between the coils used for Seiko Kinetic watches (which have batteries charged by a mechanical rotor) and Spring Drive coils with the naked eye; during our recent trip to Shiojiri we were able to photograph the two coils side by side.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9d0c70c1-f623-4616-a05d-d7918182726b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The amount of electrical energy generated is extremely minute; one way of visualizing it is to imagine everyone on Earth wearing a Spring Drive watch. Were this to be the case, the resulting electrical energy would be just barely enough to light one 100 watt light bulb. In order to have an acceptable power reserve, the entire system has to work extremely efficiently, which is why it was necessary to develop a new coil system, as well as the high efficiency integrated circuit. The mechanical train has to be manufactured and assembled to a very high degree of precision as well, in order to reduce frictional losses to an absolute minimum (this is an easy thing to miss about Spring Drive but for them to work, they have to be high precision mechanical watches as well as advanced technology platforms).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["355cc23f-29eb-4179-a7c5-55afa095e4ab"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The question is often asked, \"isn't Spring Drive a quartz watch?\" It's not, at least not in the sense we usually think of quartz watches. The electromechanical drive system in Spring Drive is regulated by a quartz crystal, yes; however, there are so many fundamental differences between Spring Drive and quartz watches as a class, that it really is a different technology. Ultimately, Spring Drive isn't really a mechanical watch in the ordinary sense of the word, but it's not a quartz watch either – it's Spring Drive.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["c0ba2d5d-467f-4956-ba9b-b03201a0a22c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["2bdcf3cc-b71b-4455-b535-0c58a5c4fbde"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Snowflake Dial"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Snowflake dial has a texture that's generally compared to that of freshly fallen snow but it's not really a literal representation of a snow field, of course – it's not really a literal representation of anything, which is part of the reason that it's so compelling. It has something of a lot of different things – the texture of water color paper, or a rice paper screen, for instance – and the fact that it doesn't lend itself to identification with anything in particular, means that it's going to look and feel different for everyone. This is also very Japanese – so much of the aesthetics in traditional Japanese culture are about what you leave out, as much as what you put in.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["21dfa5d6-8342-4506-a7b2-f4a8434a3ab2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A dial is not a washed-ink brush painting, of course, but in this instance some of the same aesthetic criteria are at play. The composition has to be balanced but not static, and negative space has to be offset by just enough contrasting elements to keep things dynamic without becoming cluttered. The single most important element on the dial compositionally in terms of providing a dynamic element is the power reserve, which is located and executed in such a way as to break up both the surface texture of the dial – which otherwise might seem a bit too monotonous – and balance the presence of the date window. Another big part of the appeal of the dial, of course, are the contrasting textures – the diamond-bright reflective surfaces of the hands against the snowflake dial surface, with the blued steel seconds hand gliding silently across the whole thing. One of the most appealing aspects of the watch is that its design elements don't give the impression of particularly striving to create an effect; it seems natural and effortless.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d38f0f3b-f127-40cd-aa8a-ab39b94d1794","57043d29-853b-4063-8cad-a6887166e7f7"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["83e70054-247b-4df1-9917-4de75a53d766"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The creation of the dial is a multi-stage process, involving stamping the initial pattern onto a dial blank, and then adding successive layers of coating to create the subtle translucency of the final dial. The indexes for Grand Seiko watches are cut with a diamond-edged rotary cutting tool, overseen by a technician who manually operates the cutting machine, and who uses a small hand mirror to make sure the index surfaces reflect the light in the desired fashion. Once the lettering is printed, the markers applied, and the date window surround inserted, the dial's ready to become part of the watch. The creation of a Snowflake dial is very labor intensive, but no less so than many of the other dial making processes at the Shinshu Watch Studio in Shiojiri; the amount of hand-work that goes into dials, hands, and markers is extensive, and the result is the very high quality, in Grand Seikos across the board, for which Grand Seiko is famous.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bc4e235e-0eb8-4195-bd88-331aec208586"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"images":["d6dd0d00-112f-4eb1-8d84-c2be4eef3e8f","22308786-e196-47a9-9147-05438d3a014f","19ecf36a-b4f7-47d7-aef6-17ad94b5b3fd","c10c684e-181a-4674-a117-7667425877fe","3d5202b6-9331-4a58-b26e-bd7074a2d736"]},"type":"Block::SlideshowImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As we said at the outset, the Spring Drive Snowflake SBGA211 is a very steadying watch to wear. The entire thing seems to have been calculated to create an effect of serenity without boredom; of minimalism without sterility. On the most basic level, wearing it is an exercise in experiencing a watch that absolutely fulfills the most basic social contract of a watch, and a watchmaker, with an owner: it is instantly readable, delivers all information with absolute clarity, is extremely accurate, and is useful and usable under just about any conditions you could reasonably expect it to meet. Not only are there no compromises made with functionality, functionality is actively pursued as a goal meaningful in itself and again, this achievement of an aesthetic effect through the pursuit of functionality, without a desire to create an effect <i>per se, </i>is pervasive in traditional Japanese culture – perhaps nowhere more iconically than in the Japanese sword. The most basic question for the <i>katana </i>is not \"how does it look,\" but rather \"does it work?\" but how it looks, of course, is a direct result of how it's made to work as exceptionally well as it does. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d771380f-4055-4152-85a1-fc3c1855b545"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is the year that Grand Seiko became a separate Seiko brand from Seiko overall<i>, </i>which means that the Snowflake now no longer has the Seiko logo at 12:00. The Grand Seiko logo has been shifted from its former position at 6:00 up to the 12:00 position, and as a result the whole dial is much less cluttered – the degree to which \"Seiko Grand Seiko\" watches seemed a bit redundant always varied quite a bit from model to model but for the Snowflake, I think the change is a definite improvement and really gives the dial a sense of repose that it didn't quite have before.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["1555fa05-8a71-40ee-99bc-cec1e16822e7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Wearing the Snowflake is also an exercise in achieving irreproachable functionality. The case and bracelet are Seiko's \"High Intensity\" titanium, which has the lightness, comfort, and hypoallergenicity of titanium but with much better scratch resistance. Despite the brightly polished case bevels and bezel, you don't wear this watch with any concern about inflicting noticeable scratches on it, and despite its somewhat large-for-Grand-Seiko diameter (the case is 41mm x 12.5mm) it remains extremely comfortable to wear – adjusted for a slightly snug fit on my seven inch wrist, it became almost unnoticeable, unless I happened to need to check the time or date.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["32a2624e-f000-4661-8924-a9b53ff0e9ff","3695b056-0806-46e5-9912-59872461aac1"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In terms of competition, this is a particularly interesting year at this price point, with a number of manufacturers going out of their way to offer watches as attractive as possible at $6,000 or less – so much so that we didn't find it difficult at all to round up several of them <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/five-watches-under-6000-dollars-watch-enthusiast/" target=\"_blank\">in a quick survey last July</a>. The lineup includes Tudor's first chronograph with the new Breitling-supplied movement; the always-reliable Rolex Oyster Perpetual, and of course, the Snowflake itself. However, in a very real sense, the Spring Drive Snowflake doesn't have competition – at least, not in the sense of competing with other watches that use a similar technical approach. Christopher Walken is supposed to have said, \"I've been lucky in my career in that, in Hollywood, if you want a Christopher Walken type, you pretty much have to hire Christopher Walken.\" In the same vein, if you want a Spring Drive, you pretty much have to get a Spring Drive; there's no almost-a-Spring-Drive.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I think that at the current price (SBGA211 is $5,800), this is one of the most satisfying watches out there right now. Yes, it's as objectively excellent in its pursuit of practical benefits to the owner as you could ask. Accuracy is rated officially by Seiko to one second per day but anecdotally Grand Seiko Spring Drive owners generally note accuracy that's much better – often, an order of magnitude better. It's easy to wear day in and day out; and reading the time couldn't be a more instantaneous affair – even in very low light situations, where you'd think some sort of luminous material to be indispensable, thanks to the beveled and highly reflective surfaces on the hands and indexes, telling the time is a snap. At the same time, however, you can also approach and appreciate the watch in terms of what it represents technically. Spring Drive takes a bit of time to understand, but it's well worth the effort in terms of seeing just how different it is from both conventional quartz and standard mechanical watches, and if you find technical achievement and innovation in independent timekeeping interesting (that is, not radio time signal or GPS controlled) Spring Drive is one of the most interesting developments since quartz itself was introduced by Seiko in 1969.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["3f57731d-7f96-4d4e-9140-d15c428e6cc5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Where the Snowflake really wins hearts and minds, though, and where it's been winning hearts and minds for nearly a decade, is in its design and aesthetics. The degree of excellence in fit and finish you rightly expect from Grand Seiko is a big part of that, but as with any really successful design object, the whole is a lot more than the sum of its parts and as a design object with a uniquely Japanese heart, the Spring Drive Snowflake is deservedly a perennial Grand Seiko fan favorite. Grand Seiko is known in the watch enthusiast world as an icon of quality, and within the Grand Seiko family, the Snowflake particularly stands out, as a highly successful integration of the many qualities that make Grand Seiko so appealing – an icon's icon, if you will.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>The Grand Seiko Spring Drive \"Snowflake\" SBGA211: as shown, on \"Brightman\" high intensity titanium bracelet, $5,800. Case, Brightman titanium, 41mm x 12.5mm, with Zaratsu polishing. Movement, Grand Seiko Spring Drive caliber 9R65, 72-hour power reserve. Rated to ±1 second maximum deviation per day. Find out more at </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://grand-seiko.us.com/collections/SBGA211//" target=\"_blank\"><i>grand-seiko.us.com</i></a><i>.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"d35e80ad-082c-4d0a-b83f-777417ad7e3d","container_id":4832,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1507578675913-ypnk2f7p3-d327a1406c813cdb0648820a798176d2/hero.jpg","width":5760,"height":3240,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2017-10-09T16:09:37.468-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:11:33.641-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1507578675913-ypnk2f7p3-d327a1406c813cdb0648820a798176d2/hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/grand-seiko-spring-drive-snowflake-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Grand Seiko Spring Drive Snowflake SBGA211","tags":[]},{"id":4795,"slug":"tag-heuer-autavia-2017-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The TAG Heuer Autavia 2017","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-10-05T13:58:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-09-25T13:37:41.711-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:30.761-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>Make no mistake, this is a thoroughly modern watch.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106661978001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":130964,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>On my first official day here at HODINKEE, I walked into the office to find a surprise waiting for me. After I had a chance to settle in at my desk, Stephen handed me an unexpected treat: a watch that I had wanted to get on my wrist ever since it was announced in late 2016. He then asked me to wear it for seven consecutive days and deliver my impressions for one of my first HODINKEE articles. How could I say no? A few weeks later, here is A Week on the Wrist with the TAG Heuer Autavia 2017 – officially known as the Heuer Heritage Caliber Heuer 02.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There were qualities about the new Autavia that piqued my interest from the very beginning and kept bringing me back to it – the unusual process that went into its development (more on that later), the earnest approach to honoring a classic design and doing so thoughtfully, and the use of one of the great new affordable in-house chronograph calibers out there, to name just a few. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9fb8b37a-4e60-4b67-81b8-16b00821774a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As I set out wearing this Autavia, it occurred to me that I’d written about it—as well as its equally interesting genesis—three times already, for different publications and in different contexts. Generally speaking, I tend to serially editorialize just the watches that I’d consider buying myself. That in mind, I can't think of a better way to kick off my new role here than sharing my thoughts on the new Autavia after spending some serious quality time with it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Here goes.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"How This Watch Came To Be"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The launch of the tribute watch we have here coincides with the 55th anniversary of the first Heuer Autavia wristwatch, released in 1962. The oh-so-popular and collectible sports watch was designed, as its name suggests, with both aviators and motorists in mind – the name is a contraction of \"Auto\" and \"Avia.\" The name Autavia appeared much earlier than 1962, however – but on dashboard clocks instead of wristwatches. These made their first appearances in 1933 and they could be fitted either into a plane’s cockpit or a car's dash. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["02542d6c-5f12-4e4b-b10f-2fded18437c0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Vintage Autavias are among the most sought-after Heuers, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/first-generation-heuer-autavia-sells-for-125000dollars-at-christies-new-york/" target=\"_blank\">with prices soaring in recent years</a>. Generally speaking, they wear like modern watches because of their chunkier size. As a point of reference, the Heuer Autavia Ref. 2446 Mark 3 was a 39 mm timepiece, just a hair smaller than a modern Rolex Daytona. And while the Monaco is the most stylishly avant garde, coming in a square case made iconic by Steve McQueen, and the Carrera is the prototypical round racing watch that is still TAG Heuer’s number one bestseller, the Autavia precedes them both and is finally getting the recognition it has deserved all along.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Biver Effect"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Following last year’s successful revival of the Monza, TAG Heuer CEO Jean-Claude Biver turned his sights to another watch that was ripe for revival. But he did so with an unexpected twist that was itself aimed at drawing attention to the watch before its design had even been decided. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["2fd56c3f-75e0-426b-a2a4-47f5986c8e71"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>He decided to pit 16 vintage Heuers against one another in head-to-head competitions in which collectors would vote them up or down online. The competition was called the Autavia Cup and it was formally announced at Baselworld 2016. After each round, there would be winners and losers, with the former advancing to the next round. Then, just a few weeks later, there would be one Autavia crowned king, and it would serve as the inspiration for the new generation Autavia, to premiere less than a year later.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Over the course of the competition, more than 50,000 votes were cast, reflecting a very enthusiastic engagement from Heuer fans around the world. And from those votes, we got our winner: the 1966 Autavia Ref. 2446 Mark 3, a watch that sold for $119.50 at its debut. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["c726a704-2449-46fd-a276-ff402ae0e734"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As our friend Jeff Stein of OnTheDash <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/heuer-expert-jeff-steins-take-on-the-2017-tag-heuer-autavia/" target=\"_blank\">told HODINKEE earlier</a> this year, he helped TAG Heuer arrange the bracket in such a way that none of the heavyweight favorites would knock each other out in the early rounds, making for a more compelling competition the entire way through. The differences were all in the details, and the Autavia Cup itself helped ignite interest in the history of this important model.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I can’t think of another example of a major watch brand crowd-sourcing a major watch launch like this. If you can, drop me a note in the comments, please.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Understanding The Rise Of Vintage Heuer"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are now <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bring-a-loupe-january-27-2017/" target=\"_blank\">early Heuer Autavias selling for more than $200,000</a>. That is a staggering amount for a watch that was long overshadowed and, until this year, not even in the current production lineup. It's really difficult to overstate just how meteoric the rise of the Autavia has been in the vintage market.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In December, a first-generation Heuer Autavia achieved a $125,000 hammer price at Christie’s New York, becoming the first-ever six-figure Autavia at auction. In a story on HODINKEE, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/first-generation-heuer-autavia-sells-for-125000dollars-at-christies-new-york/" target=\"_blank\">Ben openly wondered</a> if the tables might actually be turning for the Autavia, long the less pricey alternative to the Rolex Daytona, and the less beloved cousin of the Carrera.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["3bd81e16-26c7-4074-9746-93a0df02404e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Earlier last year, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/four-heuers-sold-for-a-total-of-dollar461333-over-the-weekend-at-sothebys-and-phillips/" target=\"_blank\">Phillips sold an example of the 2446 Mark Three Jochen Rindt</a> for more than $76,000. Keep in mind, this is a watch that originally sold for $119.50 back in the 1960s. There's enough evidence at this point to reasonably conclude that these results are not one-off aberrations, though not all Autavias were created equal, and the surge in prices is most acutely felt in very specific references.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>“The values of 1960s Autavias have exploded in recent years, while the Autavias from the 1970s and 1980s have been strong, but not nearly as exceptional,” says Jeff Stein, founder of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.onthedash.com//" target=\"_blank\">OnTheDash</a>, a leading resource for collectible Heuer watches. “I believe that the traditional chronographs from the 1960s, with the classic Valjoux 72/92 movements will always have an advantage over the the C-shaped cases from the 1970s and '80s, with their fatter, cam-actuated movements.\" </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fe91486f-5f0a-4d47-a27e-40602630c145"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But even here, there are a few notable exceptions to the rule, as Stein says that the Chronomatics, “Orange Boys,” “Exotics,” and GMTs all have achieved high prices in the vintage Heuer marketplace and will continue to do so.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Geoff Hess, another Heuer expert with a reputation for also collecting the best in vintage Rolex, attributes the surge in popularity of vintage Heuer to what he calls \"a perfect storm of factors.\" Vintage watches are more popular now than at any other time. Heuer is celebrating its own history with well-made tribute pieces like the Autavia 2017; a large community of collectors has grown up around Heuer; and of course, with its associations with racing and film legends Mario Andretti, Jo Siffert, and Steve McQueen, vintage Heuer sport watches have achieved a level of coolness bested only by Rolex, which has become expensive enough to price out many collectors.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2c732e65-e7eb-43c2-9a5f-da2c3ab75837"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So where should you look for value, assuming you don’t have six figures to throw down on the best Autavias? Fortunately there are still plenty of opportunities to get great vintage Heuer watches at a reasonable price, especially, as Stein says, if you’re willing to look at smaller watches from the '40s and '50s.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now let's get back to the new guy.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Autavia 2017"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["b3bd01fe-9eb0-4fe8-ad69-33b9269ab357"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>While a watch is of course more than the sum of its parts, let's break the Autavia 2017 down and get a sense of its strengths and weaknesses. I'll say right off the bat that this watch's main strengths are its dial and its movement, and that while its large case is going to be a deal breaker for some of you, I don't think that it should be. In general, I'm a \"just buy the bracelet version\" kind of guy, and with this watch I'm willing to double down on that sentiment.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Case"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When you birth a modern sports watch from a 1960s design, lots of things will, by necessity, change. Generally speaking, in terms of performance, you can expect a whole lot more from the watch as a result of these cumulative changes. With the Autavia 2017, the most conspicuous difference from the Ref. 2446 Mark 3 is the watch’s dimensions. The Autavia 2017 is 42mm in diameter, compared to 39mm for the original. It sits high on the wrist (nearly 16 mm thick, not svelte by any stretch), putting this new Autavia in a size range that is definitely going to irk some of the purists out there. But with this concession to girth come modern enhancements that make it a wearable everyday watch for lots of situations in which one wouldn’t dare put any vintage watch, especially a rare and collectible one.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1dff8c48-1453-4fdb-8c0f-9bb2a4ef7cec"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Most obviously there is the water resistance to 100 meters – not too shabby for a chronograph that was originally designed for the race track. During my weeklong test-drive, I took this new specification to heart and used the Autavia 2017 to time a whitewater rafting adventure on the Saint Lawrence River rapids near Montreal. The watch and I were completely drenched by the end of the day, with cascading waves of rapids battering down on the Autavia strapped to my wrist. To be honest, I had second thoughts about bringing this loaner into such a punishing environment – it was only my first test drive for HODINKEE, after all – but it stood up to the battering and kept the water out just fine. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Autavia case has a pretty standard three-part construction with a screw-in sapphire crystal caseback, offering a view of the Heuer 02 movement inside. The case middle’s sloping lugs look like they might just hug the wrist nicely, but they never really get a chance to offer any ergonomic benefit due to the protrusion of the caseback. Nonetheless, the package itself is well designed. Those lugs are nicely beveled along their edges too. This bit of finishing on the case is something we almost take for granted in modern timepieces positioned at a certain price point, but it’s hardly a common feature in vintage watches.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c7eaea20-6d85-4969-91dd-d143333ec491"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Bracelet"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For the majority of my review time with this watch, it was affixed to my wrist by an Aged Hunter Green leather strap from the HODINKEE Shop. I found the textured green nubuck a more-than-fitting companion for the black dialed Autavia, but I knew toward the end of the review period that I wanted to experience this watch on its supplied bracelet. (The only reason I did not do the entire test drive on the bracelet was that I was traveling and did not have the correct tool for subtracting links.) This bracelet, it should be noted, is special: a modern TAG Heuer-supplied tribute to the fantastic Gay Frères beads-of-rice bracelet that shipped with the original 2446 Mark 3. These old Gay Frères beauties have all of the suppleness and comfort of Milanese mesh, with the strength and form factor of a more conventional stainless steel construction. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["a0346e9f-20f3-4324-aca7-12d5a4b5fb7c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For my last few days with the watch, I managed to switch over to the TAG Heuer-supplied beads-of-rice bracelet, which doesn’t quite hit the mark of the original from Gay Frères. But, to be honest, who would really expect it to? The new one from TAG Heuer is certainly comfortable enough when compared to modern bracelets supplied with similarly priced watches. It doesn’t tug at arm hairs or pinch your skin (these are the concerns I had when looking at it). It rounds out the look of this watch pretty well, and when you consider that the new Autavia is both larger and heavier than the 2446 Mark 3, it only makes sense that there should be more heft and sturdiness to this bracelet. For only a $150 premium over the supplied leather strap, it just makes good plain sense to go for the bracelet when buying the Autavia 2017. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Dial"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e5413ecd-e5a0-404c-bfc0-a0840784c83e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The dial is a well composed copy of the original panda-style layout. There are a few tiny differences, of course, but on the whole this is a nicely executed homage, starting with a pretty much perfect copy of the 2446 Mark 3 font on the sub-dials. Similarly, because this watch is part of the Heuer Heritage line, the word TAG is absent from the dial. And the transfer of Autavia printed right over the Heuer logo inscribed in a pentagon was handled deftly. Whereas the lowest sub-dial in Ref. 2446 Mark 3 had no date window and the word Swiss printed in black against a white backdrop, this year’s Autavia does have a date, and the words \"Heuer 02\" printed in its place. Just below the date window, off of the white register and taking up a small portion of the chronograph seconds scale, the word “Swiss” is printed. Would a young Jack Heuer, fresh from his engineering training and famously obsessed with the legibility of displays and markers, have allowed a conceit such as a disruption of the chronograph scale? My inclination is to say that he would not, but this is a quibbling detail about a design that is otherwise quite nice.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["e2256eaa-d03a-46e7-b93b-0980ac17871c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7a2f9956-1acd-4cd2-8e0d-393ea6acaada"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>You’ll notice right off the bat the the hours totalizer and the running seconds sub-dial have exchanged places too, a modification necessitated by the new Heuer 02 automatic chronograph movement at the heart of the Autavia 2017. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The original Autavia 2446 Mark 3 came with the hand-wound chronograph caliber Valjoux 72, and as we’ve already discussed, that movement made for a completely different form factor in the finished watch. While some of the purists out there – perhaps most of the purists out there – are going to wish that the Autavia 2017 also came with a manually-wound chronograph caliber and a thinner case, the fact is that we are dealing with the realities of the modern watch industry. As much as HODINKEE readers are going to want a thinner timepiece and a sub-40mm diameter, the majority of watch consumers, and therefore the people who manufacture and market watches at popular price points, have tastes and objectives that are not always closely aligned with that of the enthusiast. But setting all of that aside for just a moment, if we may, there is so much to be excited about in the Heuer 02.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["1e96dac3-b78f-4c8d-a2a6-9714d651a5e2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you’ve followed TAG Heuer over the last five to 10 years, then chances are you remember the Caliber 1969 launch in late 2013. Caliber 1969 was an in-house column wheel chronograph with vertical clutch that was entirely developed and created in-house at TAG Heuer. (This movement was subsequently re-named Caliber CH80, a nod to its 80-hour power reserve.) The announcement of the movement even came along with a brand-new state-of-the-art manufacturing center in which it was to be made. But just as the movement was about to go into production, news came from La Chaux-de-Fonds that the project would be placed on indefinite hold. Some industry pundits even questioned the wisdom of adding yet another in-house chronograph movement to a stable that already included the more than serviceable Caliber 1887. TAG Heuer had been on a dizzying upmarket trajectory during a time saw a company, long associated with volume and aspirational quartz and ETA-based watches, producing limited, expensive, and experimental chronographs, the most exotic even featuring an escapement that replaced the balance spring with magnets. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["336c01c8-8044-406a-a2c7-010e92b9f87f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What we know now is that upon taking the reins at TAG Heuer, Jean-Claude Biver wanted to pause the project and determine where, strategically, the movement would fit into TAG Heuer’s future plans. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is a great movement that <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/caliber-1969-new-in-house-chronograph-from-tag-heuer/" target=\"_blank\">Ben wrote about about way back</a> when it launched under its original name. The finishing is more than decent, even if it’s performed almost entirely by machine. And its performance, as well as the action of the pushers, exceeds what I’ve come to expect from chronographs in this price range.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["efd42b0d-fb00-4fe3-9388-0bfd20fc2dc3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So now that you know what I think about the case, with its perhaps too-large size; the movement, with its automatic winding and modern chronograph construction; the bracelet, with its relative heft and stiffness compared to a mid-sixties classic; and the dial, with its fine design that is nonetheless disrupted by an added date window and some additional text – what do I think overall? </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I very much enjoyed wearing this watch, and it made me smile whenever I paused to look at it. If you want a vintage Autavia, you should probably get just that, but don’t expect anything like the performance or reliability of a modern timepiece. Maybe the most telling thing about this watch is that it has the year 2017 in its name, because despite the vintage looks, this is very much a modern watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I didn't hold back when wearing this watch – taking it, as I already mentioned, on a punishing rafting trip that left both me and it completely drenched. It stood up to the test without giving me any reason for complaint. The quality of the case and bracelet is definitely there to justify the price. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["308c8781-0668-4235-b933-1f1ee8a29846"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Out of curiosity, I asked to see a friend's earlier Autavia Heritage reissue – the 2003 \"Jo Siffert\" – for the sake of comparison. To be fair, there has been enough variability within the Autavia range to make apples to apples comparisons difficult – the Siffert was cushion shaped, for example, and Ref. 2446 Mark 3 is round. But my expectations were confirmed. Not only is the chronograph movement in the Autavia 2017 a great leap forward from the ETA that equipped the Siffert reissue, but the case, dial and bracelet are too.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ef025cad-d138-45f0-b417-425ddc5e5f83"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I mention this because these qualitative improvements make for a vastly more enjoyable wearing experience than I was expecting, as much as I already liked the look of this watch. So while the Heuer 01 Chronograph, with its Big-Bang-esque aesthetics, and the Connected, with its march into smart-watch territory, may be the product releases that get the most commercial attention in TAG's Biver era, the Heritage Line is definitely getting better and better. If you don't believe me, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-the-heritage-tag-heuer-monza-a-throwback-to-one-of-the-first-pvd-coated-watches-ever-mad/" target=\"_blank\">just take another look at the Monza from last year</a>. The fit and finish on these watches is excellent for the price, and I can't think of many watch lovers who wouldn't get at least some enjoyment from wearing them.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c13981ec-c4d9-4254-aaf0-6d6b860b03b2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What's the Autavia 2017's competition? If we're talking about affordably priced chronographs of some quality, then you may also want to have a look at Tudor's recently launched Black Bay Chronograph. While this particular watch does not have an in-house movement (Tudor sources it from Breitling, in exchange for allowing Breitling access to Tudor's own in-house time-only movement), it does have an escapement and silicon balance spring made in house by Tudor/Rolex. Staying within the LVMH Watch Division, you can get into a vintage-inspired Zenith El Primero while staying under $7,000. And of course, the Omega Speedmaster Professional more than delivers on vintage looks while keeping you right in the $5,000 range.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Another in-house chronograph you may not be aware of is the new one from Frederique Constant, which debuted in Basel this year. The Frederique Constant Flyback Chronograph Manufacture can be had for under $4,000, and as the name says, it's a flyback chrono. If you're willing to extend your budget up to $8,000, then check out the Master Control Chronograph from Jaeger-LeCoultre. This is a great looking watch from a product family that several of us HODINKEE staffers fell in love with at SIHH. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But I have to say, especially when you take price into account, the Autavia 2017 is really, really tough to beat.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If I were to go forward with this purchase – and on reflection, I very well might – I would go for the bracelet version, even taking into account the above-mentioned limitations. As imperfect as this bracelet may be, it’s a more than justifiable $150 upgrade to $5,300 from the strap-equipped version’s $5,150 price. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c3697265-99e2-4697-8ef7-c86b3e9f9cae"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Autavia 2017 is a special watch indeed, and following on the heels of the Monza of a year before, it adds further proof that the desire to make excellent Heritage models at TAG Heuer is alive and well in the Biver era. The fact that one can have an in-house chronograph with vertical clutch – from a major Swiss brand, no less – for just north of $5,000 is in itself a heartening reminder that there are still pockets of value to be found and enjoyed in contemporary watchmaking. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For more, check out the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tag-heuer-autavia-2017-review/" target=\"_blank\">Heuer Heritage Caliber Heuer 02/Autavia 2017 at tagheuer.com.</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"10d1d892-a137-421c-afb8-c74cec2f90d3","container_id":4795,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1507055992914-w4ll9a9c2bb-f5c436219c0de2085bed99e5b578bf5a/3H0A3509_copy_2.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-09-25T13:37:41.800-04:00","updated_at":"2017-10-03T14:40:16.238-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1507055992914-w4ll9a9c2bb-f5c436219c0de2085bed99e5b578bf5a/3H0A3509_copy_2.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tag-heuer-autavia-2017-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The TAG Heuer Autavia 2017","tags":[]},{"id":4779,"slug":"apple-watch-series-3-edition-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Apple Watch Series 3 Edition","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-09-20T07:01:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-09-19T06:14:33.372-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:31.435-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>In this exclusive early review, we look at how cellular makes a difference (*hint: it does – a big one) and how the ultimate smartwatch has started to hit its stride (*if you can call it a watch).</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106668765001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":4763,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":236560,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":false,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>In the fall of 2014, I was one of the very few watch industry insiders to be invited to the launch of the first Apple Watch. The ensuing story (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hodinkee-apple-watch-review/" target=\"_blank\">which you can read here</a>), is still one of the most read stories I've ever written on HODINKEE, and it is in fact the most discussed here and elsewhere. Three years on, the Apple Watch remains one of the most controversial and hotly-debated objects not only in watches – where some view it as a simple non-issue, and still others view it as pure evil taking the form of 42mm of silicon and aluminum – but also in consumer technology because it has, by Apple's admittedly skewed matrices (which will happen when you're the largest company in the history of the world), not been the overwhelming success to which the firm is accustomed.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But if you think the Apple Watch has been a flop, you're kidding yourself. Even more so if you think it hasn't impacted the traditional watch space – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/forget-the-swiss-its-fossil-that-apple-is-threatening/" target=\"_blank\">read my esteemed colleague Joe Thompson's look at what Apple has done to the American-held, multi-billion-dollar company that is Fossil</a> if you don't believe me. Though luxury watch consumers are unlikely to admit it, the Apple Watch has changed things. Last week, we saw the introduction of the Apple Watch Series 3 and Series 3 Edition (housed completely in ceramic) – and today, after spending a full week with the latter, I'm here to give you my full thoughts.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"What's New In Apple Watch Series 3?"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7ecd7d8e-fb98-4c55-9b78-cda45dda9546"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The technical specs of Series 3 <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/apple-watch-series-3-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">were published here on HODINKEE the minute they were announced</a>, but I'll summarize them quickly for you. Series 3 has a barometric altimeter that measures, for the first time, relative elevation. That's helpful for climbing stairs, skiing and snowboarding, hiking, etc. It has a new W2 wireless chip that was developed by, you guessed it, Apple, and offers better performance using less power. There is an entirely new processor within Series 3 that makes it up to 70% faster than Series 2. This is huge, and if you haven't tried an Apple Watch since the first generation, you'll be shocked by the differences in speed. Finally, the biggest change to Apple Watch Series 3 is that now, for the first time, it features cellular capabilities as a stand-alone device, meaning it can operate without your iPhone being within Bluetooth range. Doesn't sound like a big deal? I didn't think it was either, until I tried it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"What's Changed Since 2014? A Lot, And Yet Nothing At All"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In thinking about this new Apple Watch and what it might mean to Apple, the traditional watch industry, and to us as consumers, let's look back to 2014 to see how much has changed since then. We knew Apple Watch was coming, and yet it seemed to take the industry by surprise. The usual suspects were dismissive, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.telegraph.co.uk/technology/apple/11088667/Apple-Watch-too-feminine-and-looks-like-it-was-designed-by-students-says-LVMH-executive.html/" target=\"_blank\">disrespectful even</a>. And then we saw many of them follow in Apple's footsteps by creating their own versions of a smartwatch. Fossil purchased Misfit for $260 million. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.theverge.com/2015/5/5/8557587/iwc-connect-smartwatch-activity-tracker/" target=\"_blank\">IWC announced (but never launched) a fitness tracker that could attach to your watch strap</a>. Montblanc released <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/montblanc-summit-smartwatch-live-pics-pricing-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">a smartwatch that costs around $1,000</a>. Louis Vuitton <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://us.louisvuitton.com/eng-us/stories/tambour-horizon#the-collection\" target=\"_blank\">released one for over $2,500</a>. Don't worry though, because that includes an LV-branded charging case. Now <i>that</i> is luxury.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4355ff08-8569-4c45-959c-2c999e6cf461"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And then there's TAG Heuer, who was among the first, and certainly the most successful, at tackling Apple on their own terms by producing <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/my-thoughts-on-the-tag-heuer-connected-smartwatch-by-kevin-rose-video/" target=\"_blank\">the so-called Connected Watch at $1,500</a> that used technology found in several other watches that could be had for a literal fraction of the price TAG was asking. But you know what? It worked. And as it stands right now, the Connected Watch is in fact the number one selling watch by volume for TAG Heuer in the United States. Bet you wouldn't have guessed that. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d37ad16e-b45c-4955-8bcb-82f87bf8d2d0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's shocking, I know, but <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/Jean-Claude-Biver-Talks-About-SmartWatch#&gid=1&pid=1\" target=\"_blank\">as LVMH honcho Jean-Claude Biver told us in March 2015</a>, his hope is that the connected watch will get people into watches in general, and with a price point of $1,500, it's actually the least expensive item in the TAG Heuer collection. Starting to make sense? </p>\n<p>So again, the Swiss were dismissive of the Apple Watch because it's not even a watch, right? How could someone who appreciates a fine timepiece ever want a disposable digital device on their wrist?</p>\n<p>Still, we now have smartwatches from two of the three big luxury watch groups, and likely more to come. And that's before we actually talk about sales numbers of Apple versus the traditional players or the fact that all of theirs use what is the equivalent of an off-the-shelf caliber in Android OS while Apple's is, to borrow a term they'll understand, completely in-house. Ironic, really.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Blind Leading The Blind"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["491a6118-3da1-4223-b034-15aabc7cafbf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One of the most amusing things about doing what I do for a living – writing about and working with <i>mechanical </i>watches – is the reaction that other watch guys expect me, or really any other reasonable watch person, to have about the Apple Watch. They think we should hate it. I don't hate the Apple Watch, nor should anyone else. If anything, the build quality versus price ratio on the Apple Watch is so embarrassing for the Swiss that I genuinely think it will push mechanical watchmakers to be better. And I actually think the Apple Watch has gotten people talking about watches again. Does the Apple watch give me the same emotional satisfaction as my Vacheron Constantin, Rolex, or Omega? Certainly not, but that's not the point. And I think we all know that – so the vitriol that spews from the souls of so many mechanical watch lovers is misguided, whether from an industry employee or from a consumer. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>Ask the average luxury watch consumer how big of an impact Apple has on their world and they might respond with little reaction. But look at more traditional fashion watches – those in the sub-$500 price range – and you'll see a different story. Fossil, a multi-billion-dollar company and maker of entry-level watches had a share price of over $83 the day the Apple watch was announced. It's now below $9. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/forget-the-swiss-its-fossil-that-apple-is-threatening#&gid=1&pid=8\" target=\"_blank\">Read the full story here</a>.</p>","title":"Think Apple Hasn't Hit Traditional Watches? Ask Fossil.","images":["d64dab4b-9884-46de-885a-edd34b65cf38"],"alignment":"right"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>These feelings towards the Apple Watch and smartwatches in general reminds me of a period in my life – a time not so long ago – when \"blog\" was a four letter word, literally and figuratively, to the entire country of Switzerland. The idea that the World Wide Web was a tool through which some could communicate about luxury products was simply unthinkable – and if anyone did, then for sure no one would ever make a purchasing decision based on what <i>a blogger</i> might say, because nobody with any real money would be <i>online</i>! It's this same attitude that caused the Swiss to lose during the Quartz Crisis. And to be clear, they did – 97% of watches on this planet today are quartz (hat-tip Joe Thompson!). </p>\n<p>When I see comments on our site and elsewhere saying that Apple will never dethrone Rolex as a watchmaker, I know they are surely right, when thinking about a timeless, mechanical watch that will last generations. But Apple has, by their own account, already sold more watches than Rolex by revenue in the past 12 months, and that means they've likely sold more in \"watches\" than pretty much everyone else, too. Yeah, it's a little silly to compare Apple to Rolex, but at the same time, how can you ignore a company that according to the widely read Ventrobel report, shipped 11.5 million smartwatches ($4.5 billion) in 2015. And that was 2015, before the Series 2 and well before the brand new Series 3 Watch. Oh, and about that slide at the top of the section and the one that ruffled more than a few feathers when Apple presented it during their keynote – Apple is comparing themselves to Rolex, Omega, and Cartier not in unit sales, where it surely would outpace these luxury players just by virtue of a far less expensive price point, but by revenue. That means more people are spending more money on Apple Watches than Rolex, Omega, or Cartier watches. Think about that. </p>\n<p>Again, the Apple Watch isn't trying to eat the mechanical watch industry's lunch at all, and it certainly isn't looking to replace the mechanical watch as the emotional talisman that its become over the past few decades. The Apple Watch, whatever the series, is an entirely different thing. It's electronic, with a lifecycle that we've all come to know and expect from Apple and all other electronics companies. We replace our phones every few years, and the Apple Watch is a peripheral device to the phone, so it makes sense that we would see them roll out semi-regularly. Now, that's not to say some don't view the Apple Watch as direct competition to some watches, but like I said all the way back in 2014, high-end watches are safe, for now.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"inline","quote":"<p>\"Will anyone be trading in their Lange Double-Split for an Apple Watch? Certainly not. But, will the average Lange owner buy an Apple Watch, wear it on the weekends, and then, after a great workout with it, decide to leave it on next for a vacation to the beach, and then maybe on casual Friday to the office? It's possible. Apple products have a way of making someone not want to live without them...So while certainly not direct competition for haute horology watchmaking right now, the Apple Watch is absolutely competition for the real estate of the wrist, and years down the road, it could spell trouble for traditional watches even at a high level. When you realize you just don't need something anymore, there is little desire to buy another. At the lower end, I believe the Apple Watch is a serious threat to those less faithful wearers of analog watches.\"</p>","source":"Benjamin Clymer, September 2014"},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["0e6a5a13-e278-48e1-b4c8-58f5131b7e6a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It turns out I was right. Swiss exports for watches below $1,000 have been the hardest hit, and as we published on this very site yesterday, one of the largest producers of entry level fashion watches in the world, the Fossil Group, has taken a beating since the day the Apple Watch was introduced.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One quote from Fossil CEO Kosta Kartsosis that I think is particularly poignant from this reporting is: \"the number one trend in fashion is technology.\" And I think that is true whether we're looking at $300 Fossils, Apple Watches, or something far more expensive. Granted, mechanical watches are something more like anti-technology, but we mustn't forget, the complicated pocket watch was the precursor to the smartwatch in many ways.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Something else to consider: The Casio G-Shock just celebrated its 100 millionth watch sold, making it, according to Casio, the most successful watch ever created. Guess how long the G-Shock has been around? Thirty-five years. And the Apple Watch sold 11.5 million units in 2015 alone, then demand reportedly dropped considerably in 2016 before climbing back 50% year-over-year into 2017. Looks like Casio won't be holding on to that title for long. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"What It's Like To Attend An Apple Keynote"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"images":["1aa1af55-72d9-4d3c-9053-74dcf86b433c","3da6cf0c-8161-4d29-9d00-7c5dbc5b7e26","0ab43cc0-dff9-4895-9ef3-9683bdaa2720","d08d5805-37fd-4ab0-a9b8-d64c3fa6cc39","c2440eb3-2bc9-4860-8372-fddb9beb33b5","fcb07f4a-bd72-4738-84cd-ca29fc430f44","ffb9c33a-9757-4148-9077-9c6ca95748b5","f210f170-d725-4364-bda7-003a1fad16b2","33a4c6f4-2e38-469c-b208-515ab0b1a24e","db35eb53-a5e5-4e1f-9d3c-ddf793ef231e","8f666960-5f81-4951-ab5a-2eb86f095f59","4ef14543-9131-4a3c-8698-8cffa731bed2","f003cc09-8195-4451-8eb2-a402e854c0f3","9ccb612f-5b21-4abd-810c-b22077e7b1dd","8af39eb0-ba19-478a-9340-44102a598a23","ac66567a-7444-480c-a101-dbe253f5c30a","6391fa51-57fa-4d5c-b9b3-b90996504bdc","70800535-d608-4ff8-8a5c-f27b827560ca","50f79ca5-aa06-4be3-a1e4-ab973205f1d4","4ba53f9e-fa80-4ae6-aa00-42da1a9ea6b0","de1390b1-dda2-4298-8e40-df5cedd94d75","608d9e4a-ccad-4752-afef-2f03fda74ebd","76c077b5-8889-4726-b6d9-df31a52c0535","83b618ca-d0a0-4b4b-aa02-7ce714c523c9"]},"type":"Block::SlideshowImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Just because it's not something many get to do, I thought I'd break up this little review with a few behind-the-scenes photos from launch day in Cupertino. For more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.recode.net/2017/9/13/16299086/apple-park-steve-jobs-theater-iphone-event-photos/" target=\"_blank\">check out Dan Frommer's story on Recode</a> (where approximately 10% of my head makes an appearance). Okay, now back to your regularly schedule program.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A Week On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["daa5064c-c88c-4264-8e9d-1f21961a0da0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>On to the matter at hand, your very first hands-on review of the Apple Watch Series 3 Edition. </p>\n<p>First things first, I owned the Series 1 Apple Watch – and I really enjoyed it for about a month, using it mostly on the weekends and when going to the gym. I found the Bluetooth connectivity and processor simply to be too slow to use it regularly. If I turned it off for a few days and then turned it back on, it would take forever to update with all my emails, text messages, and calendar invitations. Shortly after I got the first Apple Watch, I bought an amazing waterproof Universal Compax and, well, the Apple Watch went into a drawer. When Series 2 came out, my colleague Jack Forster told me I had to give it a shot, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/apple-watch-series-2-review/" target=\"_blank\">saying it was really a whole new experience because of how much faster it was</a>. I tried it, it was faster, I enjoyed it a lot more than Series 1, but still, to the drawer it eventually went. I simply didn't feel that I needed it, and it is certainly the first time I could say that about an Apple product in my life.</p>\n<p>After a week with the Series 3, this has changed. At least for now.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Packaging, Fit, And Finish"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a02683d0-d0cb-4da4-8f08-42a4c9dcc109"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>First, let's be clear what we're looking at here. This is the Apple Watch Edition in 42mm – that means this is among the most expensive Apple Watches currently available. All Edition watches, in both sizes and in both colors, come cellular-enabled, though you can purchase a Series 3 without cell capabilities (and you can still purchase a Series 1, if you'd like to). This means the Edition is a luxury product to Apple, and as such, the packaging, fit, and finish of the whole thing is just exemplary.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b9d9f267-bad3-481e-a4a5-50abbf3dd067"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The beautiful plastic and microsuede box in which the Edition comes is simply stunning, and when showing it to our own in-house designer (who holds a degree in industrial design), he noted the incredible tolerances and smooth corners to every piece of the packaging. To him, it gets no better than when Apple does great packaging, and to me, as someone who lives in a world of leather-bound books and the smell of rich mahogany, the clean, minimalist approach to packaging was a welcome change. Have you SEEN the boxes that come with luxury watches today? They're enormous, they're wasteful, and they're downright silly (shout out to NOMOS though – you guys kill it!). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9da79a3b-47be-4795-8250-36d5d657635b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"body":"<p>While Apple's early Edition watches in solid gold sold for upwards of $18,000 and the ceramic sells for around $1,400, Audemars Piguet sells both the gold and full ceramic version of their perpetual calendar Royal Oak for roughly the same price ($93,900 in ceramic versus $95,700 in rose or yellow gold). This begs the question: \"Who is up-charging the most – Switzerland or Silicon Valley?\"</p>","title":"Things That Make You Go \"Hmm\"","images":["324f7212-e180-49df-93a5-0a1334eeeaf4"],"alignment":"left"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This being the Edition, the entire case of my Apple Watch Series 3 is ceramic. And that's not steel coated in ceramic, it's the real deal. Actually, it's Apple's own in-house ceramic, which uses a powder made of zirconia, yttrium oxide, and alumina. From there, each case is compression molded, then Apple uses 70 diamond-grit CNC machines for over six hours to cut the cases. After that, the ceramic goes through two full hours of polishing to bring it to the sheen that you see here. Again, the quality of the ceramic matches that of any high-end polished ceramic watch I've seen in the market from Switzerland. In fact, Apple has indicated they are using much of the same finishing techniques that one might expect to see in, say, Le Brassus or Le Sentier, and if you look through <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.apple.com/newsroom/2016/11/designed-by-apple-in-california-chronicles-20-years-of-apple-design//" target=\"_blank\">Apple's \"Designed by Apple In California\" book</a>, and then tour Audemars Piguet for example, you'll see the very same tools. In thinking about it, the only high-end Swiss watch that is objectively a more impressive use of ceramic is <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ap-perpetual-calendar-ceramic-26579ce/" target=\"_blank\">AP's Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in full ceramic with ceramic bracelet</a>, and that is because of the multiple facets and finishing types seen on the bezel, mid-case, and bracelet. The ceramic AP is one of the hottest watches in the world at the moment, and even at $93,900 it has a wait list a mile long. Though they are very different watches, I would not be shocked if many ceramic AP owners end up buying ceramic Apple watches – they just kind of go together.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8721d57c-12c1-4e6f-b421-a2172ab3adb2","442a5fa2-01cf-4e0c-b2c6-99021ac750f4"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The muted grey of this new Edition is such a wonderful color – I prefer it vastly to the white ceramic that was available in Series 2. Now, that white ceramic is still available in Series 3, but I think white is a very particular look that will appeal to a very particular set of consumers, while this grey will be far more popular with a wider range of people. Oh, and if you hadn't <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/zenith-el-primero-for-hodinkee?variant=30606885764\%22 target=\"_blank\">guessed</a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/vacheron-constantin-historiques-cornes-de-vache-1955-limited-edition-for-hodinkee?variant=35842814415\%22 target=\"_blank\">by</a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/hodinkee-magazine-volume-1/" target=\"_blank\">now</a>, I'm a fan of grey.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The two pieces of the watch that aren't grey are the caseback, which includes the sensors for heart rate and haptic responses, and the large red dot on the end of the otherwise grey digital crown. This red dot signifies to all that this Apple Watch is indeed cellular capable.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9f4432d8-9fbe-4463-b0db-96df8a2fc858"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["35d527cf-1787-44dc-9d41-c894042b5ef5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The red dot is somewhat of a curious move by Apple for a few reasons. Visually, it's fairly striking, and to some, including the HODINKEE designer I mentioned above, it's a complete turn-off. He said, \"it's a deal-breaker\" for me. I wouldn't go that far, but then again, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/friday-live-episode-18/" target=\"_blank\">as I told you Friday, I'm color blind</a> and it doesn't jump out <i>that</i> much to me. Still, for a company known for being measured in all that they do, this feels a little extravagant, a little showy, in the most Cupertino kind of way. </p>\n<p>And if Apple did want to have some visual cue to let others know you've copped the new hotness with that cellular bizness inside, why make it a red dot, a logo well known and loved by a brand with which many consumers of \"luxury digital products\" are well acquainted – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://petapixel.com/2017/08/30/leica-logo-changed-past-100-years//" target=\"_blank\">Leica</a>? Hell, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://petapixel.com/2013/11/24/one-kind-jony-ive-red-leica-m-sells-whopping-1-8m-charity-auction//" target=\"_blank\">Apple designers Jony Ive and Marc Newson even collaborated on a Leica</a> for the Red Charity Auction in 2013. Again, the red dot isn't a huge deal, but I'd love to get the background on this. Why that and why there?</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["4a2f5ba6-2792-42f2-8b1f-387146cd261a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The wrist position, though .2mm thicker than the previous version (we're now at 11.4mm), is just like earlier watches, and excellent. That said, I would be lying if I said I wasn't a little disappointed that we actually went thicker for Series 3 instead of thinner – and I know that it's packed with much more tech, but the heart wants what the hearts wants, and man, I want a super thin Apple Watch. Still, Apple Watch remains a remarkably comfortable tool to wear on the wrist.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Apple Watch Series 3 As A New Part Of Your Life"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["08918e42-44fb-4e4b-93ba-b422a66a7c29"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When Apple announced that you no longer needed to keep your phone near your watch I didn't really think it was that big of a deal. The watch and phone go together – one is a peripheral to the other. But as soon as I had to chance to set up the watch and try it out, I realized that Apple Watch Series 3 is a giant, and I do mean <i>giant</i>, step towards making the product what many in Cupertino dreamed it would be and what many in Geneva feared it would be – a truly powerful tool on which millions will become reliant, just like they are on their phones. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So how does it work? Effortlessly. Your watch connects to your phone using the very same number you've likely had for years, and the watch and phone become interchangeable. In fact, one could almost replace the other, and yes I'm talking about the watch replacing your phone. The first time I left my phone on my desk upstairs and went down to the street to make a phone call, I didn't really believe it would work. It did. And well.</p>\n<p>And of course, when I placed that first call, my own telephone number showed up, and the call was crystal clear in downtown New York City. I became obsessed, and quickly. The next day, I didn't even bring my phone to work with me. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["18771fe5-8d6d-425c-8bb3-f3765e289dd5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now, what I haven't mentioned yet is that there is actually a sister product to Apple Watch Series 3 that is all but a must-have: AirPods. Apple's wireless Bluetooth headphones have been with me since December of last year, and while the sound quality is hardly audiophile worthy, they are incredibly convenient. At this point, I couldn't live without them, and I felt that way even before I received this sample Series 3 to try. They are an even bigger part of my life with the Series 3 in the picture.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["10fb78e4-e246-48c2-8055-ec3709f9fba3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This image above is what I've carried with me the last three days. Not only is there no phone – which, let me tell you, is incredibly liberating – but also I'm now only carrying one AirPod with me at a time. I can make calls, listen to music, and use Siri all from just the single unit, which I throw into my pants pocket when I'm not using it. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I used the term \"liberating\" above, and I mean it. With Apple Watch 1 and 2, you were essentially given an additional screen that told you what you were already being told on your larger, more powerful, more familiar screen (your phone). I understand why that wouldn't be for all – and frankly in the end, it wasn't for me either. This is different. Completely different. I don't know that I ever would've guessed I would say this about a smartwatch, but Apple Watch Series 3 might make your life better – you'll be less connected with the digital world and more connected with the real world around you.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"inline","quote":"<p>Apple Watch Series 3 might make your life better – you'll be less connected to the digital world and more connected with the real world around you. </p>","source":""},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In the few days I've been using the Series 3 Edition as my only communication device, I've found myself checking Instagram less. Texting less. Dickin' around on the web less. I use the watch to text or make phone calls when I need to – and that's it. My definition of \"need\" has changed completely – and frankly I don't miss having my phone in my pocket at all. </p>\n<p>Is it more cumbersome to respond to emails and texts? Sure, but Siri in the new watchOS 4 is so dialed-in that mistakes seldom happen in dictation, and there is a nice \"scribble\" function where you can essentially write what you want to say with your finger – it's definitely good enough for quick responses – and, as I've strangely discovered over the last few days, life goes on if emails go unanswered for an hour or two. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["cb2c1113-718e-4e83-b877-e68894c51e3b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_left"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Dropping the phone from your #EDC is far and away the most important impact Series 3 will have on you, but the other benefits of wearing an Apple Watch should be mentioned too. You start to pay attention to how active you are – or in my case, or <i>inactive. </i>It reminds you to exercise, to stand up, to breathe. The new OS monitors your heart-rate constantly now, and compares your resting heart rate, active rate, and recovery rates. Frankly, having this much information about your heart is a little disconcerting, but it's also powerful. Apple even launched the Apple Heart Study in partnership with Stanford, which will use the technology to better identify cardiac irregularities earlier. The potential here is, of course, massive. Oh, and did I mention Apple has been in talks with Aetna to potentially offer the Apple Watch to its 20-million-plus subscribers with either a full or partial subsidy? Let's pull this out a little bit to think about what this could mean.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Apple, Aetna, And What Corporate Wellness Could Mean For Them And For Every One Of Their Competitors"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["966db545-295f-48f9-9437-6e168c799b37"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Apple currently has a \"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.apple.com/watch/corporate-wellness//" target=\"_blank\">Corporate Wellness</a>\" page on its website – though I'd never seen it before last night. And the corporate wellness page focuses almost singularly on the Watch. It features quotes from executives from large corporations extolling the benefits Apple Watch has had on the health of its employees. But it is perhaps the first and most visible quote is most interesting. It comes from an executive VP and Chief of HR at Aetna, a $60 billion insurance company that provides healthcare to over 20 million people. Aetna currently provides the Apple Watch to all of its 50,000 employees for free. </p>\n<p>In June 2016, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://investor.aetna.com/phoenix.zhtml?c=110617&p=irol-newsArticle&ID=2206242\%22 target=\"_blank\">Aetna released an announcement that they would be \"Transforming Members’ Consumer Health Experience Using iPhone, iPad and Apple Watch.\"</a> Just last month, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.cnbc.com/2017/08/17/apple-aetna-apple-watch-meeting-details-revealed.html/" target=\"_blank\">CNBC reported that Apple and Aetna met again</a> to discuss how Aetna's own employees found using the Apple wellness program. While nothing has been confirmed, logic would tell us Apple and Aetna are on the verge of announcing a comprehensive partnership. If you look back at the keynote from last week, you'll see that more than half of the time spent on the watch was spent discussing health. That emotional video played in the beginning entitled \"Dear Apple\" gives you a pretty good idea of what's to come. You can watch it below if you missed it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","autoplay":false,"video_id":"N-x8Ik9G5Dg","poster_url":null,"video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Apple is doing a pretty good job at making a case for everyone you know to buy this watch with a video like this – and frankly with the health capabilities the new watchOS 4 has. But don't worry, if that wasn't enough, it won't be long before your insurance provider might even subsidize the cost of your Apple Watch, or even give it to you for free if can be proven that it makes you healthier. And to center the conversation back to our primary audience – imagine how long it'll take for the Apple Watch to take the crown away from Casio then, or to leave Rolex permanently in its dust. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["286ed56a-c81b-4eee-924a-05b6ae68871a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Imagine how many people who have shown little interest in smartwatches will all of a sudden be wearing an Apple Watch. Imagine how many people who are simply indifferent to what goes on his or her wrist – the majority of humanity – will be wearing an Apple Watch because, hell, it could save your life, and if insurance will cover it, why not? Do you think the ability to upgrade to a mechanical chronograph like with TAG Heuer or a Louis Vuitton–stamped charger case will convince a single person to stay away from Apple? Right. You see what I'm getting at here. I just hope Switzerland is prepared – I truly do – because I love mechanical watches and all that they've meant to me and millions of other over the years. But with Apple's developments in health, and now the ability to disconnect from your phone and in turn create an actually healthier lifestyle, the traditional watch industry needs to prepare for a cataclysmic shock.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Apple Watch Series 3 As, You Know, An Actual Watch"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["308e83db-118d-4b60-9187-45d086b0b79f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Enough about that though – what's it like to actually wear the Series 3 as a watch? It seems almost silly to talk about its time-telling ability when it can do so much more, but at the end of the day, this is HODINKEE and if we're going to say, \"fine, we'll call it a watch,\" then this has to be considered. Series 3 has dozens of dial types, including the new Explorer dial seen above, and several from the previous versions of the OS that are reminiscent of traditional watch faces. What is fun, though not new, is that the Apple Watch actually pays homage to one of horology's greatest complications (and one of my personal favorites) with its lap-timer. When you select the \"analog\" face in the stop watch app, you see what looks like a real-deal <i>rattrapante</i>, or split-seconds chronograph. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["d15ba843-4d6a-4cd0-ba30-cbbf343e1836"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Just as before, the dial goes dark until you lift your wrist to look at it. When configured as above, it mimics a traditional analog watch in a convincing manner. The Edition, in all its high-end ceramic glory, does give the wearer a sense that he or she is wearing something special – but everything is relative. After a few days of wearing the Apple Watch Series 3 Edition, I put my gold Lange 1 back on, and well, it felt like home. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["13e7bf02-1e14-450a-9450-45148d14a243"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Apple Watch Series 3, Edition or not, is the watch we've been waiting for from Apple. As mentioned, the cellular capabilities <i>alone</i> elevate this product from a niche peripheral to something that could become instrumental to millions of people's daily lives. The setup above, Series 3 with cellular and one AirPod, I expect to become almost indispensable to many, just as it has been for me this last week. The Edition, an admittedly pricey option for an object that will likely become obsolete in 18 months, is silly when viewed that way, but lovely when viewed for what it is – an expertly produced and stunning piece of industrial design that gives fine watchmakers a run for their money. It's so beautiful and so complex to produce that it makes me wonder if this watch is simply a beta test for larger projects with ceramic to come. It must be. Because though Apple is indeed the ultimate luxury brand – and it's becoming more \"luxury\" each year – I'd be curious to see how big demand for a $1,349 semi-disposable watch really is. That's not to say the Edition doesn't have a place, it definitely does, and frankly it is with people just like me, but I'm talking bigger picture here. It is lovely, and to me far more interesting than a traditional steel Apple Watch – but I recognize the absurdity in it for the average person looking in. It is, of course the same absurdity through which the entire mechanical watch world is viewed daily. That said, sometimes want is a far stronger desire than need and the Edition will find its fans, surely.</p>\n<p>Putting the price of this Edition aside, I think this Friday, as the Apple Watch Series 3 begins to deliver all over the world, we are about to begin a new chapter for smartwatches and perhaps for watches in general. Will Swiss watchmaking do as Nokia did with the iPhone and downplay the threat until it's far too late? Or will Swiss watchmaking thrive due to the very reason that it stands for hand-craft, longevity, and multi-generational appeal – the very antithesis of most digital products? The answer is likely neither one nor the other. The watch industry doesn't move as a whole – some resist, some accept. Now the question becomes where each brand will stand as the dust settles on what is very likely a new era for the watch world, all ushered in by the Apple Watch Series 3.</p>\n<p>You can read more about <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.apple.com/apple-watch-edition//" target=\"_blank\">Apple Watch Series 3 Edition right here</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"BONUS: We Stop Three Random People On The Streets Of Brooklyn To Ask Them About The New Apple Watch Series 3"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","autoplay":false,"video_id":"6106661979001","poster_url":null,"video_type":"brightcove"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What do three total strangers think of the new Apple Watch? Well, have a look above.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>Video: Will Holloway/Greyson Korhonen</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"467214b4-1519-4984-85d6-ee2e2b062f8b","container_id":4779,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1505823722318-wc6nce9ue9k-7b6c719a9b534ca2727702ebe96e2e1a/3H0A5187_copy.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-09-19T06:14:33.580-04:00","updated_at":"2017-09-19T08:22:11.296-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1505823722318-wc6nce9ue9k-7b6c719a9b534ca2727702ebe96e2e1a/3H0A5187_copy.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/apple-watch-series-3-edition-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Apple Watch Series 3 Edition","tags":[]},{"id":4719,"slug":"a-lange-sohne-1815-annual-calendar-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Annual Calendar","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-09-07T14:08:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-08-17T10:38:33.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:32.201-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>A mid-tier complication, with a high caliber feel.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106661977001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":118372,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>It’s no secret that A. Lange & Söhne makes a good watch. Heck, you could even go so far as to say they make a magnificent watch, and I don't think anyone would argue with you. However, a byproduct of being among the highest echelons of watchmakers is that the focus tends to get put exclusively on their most exceptional pieces. But this year, my personal Lange highlight is not the grandest complication – it's the 1815 Annual Calendar. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["a1f64658-779b-42ea-8e26-6adbcf2453c3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>After SIHH 2017, this watch was something of a sleeper hit. While watches like the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-master-control-date-sector-dial-a-week-on-the-wrist/" target=\"_blank\">Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control</a>, the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/panthere-de-cartier-stainless-steel-review/" target=\"_blank\">Panthère de Cartier</a>, the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vacheron-constantin-les-cabinotiers-celestia-astronomical-grand-complication-3600-in-depth/" target=\"_blank\">Vacheron Constantin Celestia</a>, and even the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-zeitwerk-decimal-strike-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">Zeitwerk Decimal Strike</a> from Lange were all getting lots of love, the 1815 Annual Calendar sort of slipped through the cracks. I listed it as my <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/editors-picks-the-best-grail-watches-of-sihh-2017/" target=\"_blank\">favorite grail watch</a> at the time, but knew I needed to spend more time with it. Now, after spending a full week with the watch firmly on my wrist, I can say without question my instincts were right: this is one amazing watch. But, it's not without its flaws, and there's even a little bit of controversy about the 1815 Annual Calendar among Lange purists. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"What Is An Annual Calendar?"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>\"When was the first annual calendar introduced?\" My colleague Ben Clymer once asked this question of our then-20-year-old intern, who fancied himself a pretty serious watch guy. This was, at one point, something of mild-mannered hazing from Ben to novice watch fans. Our intern's response? \"I'd guess mid 1800s sometime?\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>An annual calendar is a different thing than a triple or \"simple\" calendar. It's also different from a perpetual calendar. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/watch101/annual-calendar/" target=\"_blank\">Learn the differences now</a> so you don't inspire another HODINKEE story like <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/twelve-mistakes-new-watch-guys-make-how-to-avoid-them/" target=\"_blank\">this one</a>.</p>","title":"Don't Make This Mistake","images":["5b1ca815-cedc-45d1-97c5-861ac68fafa4"],"alignment":"right"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And from this misplaced confidence came <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/twelve-mistakes-new-watch-guys-make-how-to-avoid-them/" target=\"_blank\">Twelve Mistakes New Watch Guys Make</a>, because, as you should know by now, the annual calendar is a product of the 1990s. It can barely drink! </p>\n<p>Indeed, the annual calendar was created just 21 years ago by Patek Phillippe, and first produced as the reference 5035. The concept, which was really one of the first \"mid-tier\" complications to come from a major brand, was a brilliant commercial step for Patek, if a bit ho-hum in terms of horological innovation. Instead of a simple calendar where one must manually adjust the date at the end of each month, the annual calendar compensates for those months with 30 days. That would be an incredible accomplishment! That is, of course, had the perpetual calendar, which compensates for not only shorter months but also for all leap years, had not been widely used in horology for the better part of two centuries. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Some dismiss it as a dumbed-down perpetual calendar, but that's not to say it's not a useful and welcome complication. The 5035 allowed Patek clients to get into complications without entering the stratosphere of both price and complexity, of perpetual calendars, tourbillons, minute repeaters, or even chronographs – remember, at this point, Patek did not make an automatic chronograph, and at the time, they didn't even make a straight manually wound chronograph then either, in house or otherwise. The only way you could get a pure chronograph from Patek Philippe at the time was in the form of a perpetual chronograph, in the 3970. So, pickings for complicated Pateks at the time were slim.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["8e5222df-f329-407b-b4c2-52da4ae5acea"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The 37mm reference 5035 featured a self-winding caliber 315 S-QA and three sub-dials, one each for the day, date, and month. What the watch was missing when compared to a perpetual calendar, was a moon-phase display and of course, a leap year indicator. Unlike a perpetual, the annual calendar does not account for a Leap Year, so it must be adjusted once per year at the end of February (in both Leap Years and non-Leap Years; as we mentioned, the annual calendar only distinguishes between 30 and 31-day months).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["fb4efa41-d3fe-4ff4-a658-98772f8b7e0d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now, if you are a diehard calendar freak (bless you), then re-setting your watch at the end of every February might seem tedious, and if you therefore want to splurge for the mac-daddy perpetual calendar complication – fine. If you’re not, and you’re okay with the extra work that is required to find your setting pin (that always seems to go missing) and push a button twice, then the annual calendar is for you – though with the Lange we're about to get into, no pin is necessary.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The ref. 5035 remained in production until 2005, when the reference 5146 was released as its successor. The annual calendar complication was, and is still, special because it is more accessible price-wise (with the understanding that \"accessible\" is a relative term) while allowing those who want to enter the world of complicated watches do so with dignity, and without having to sell their house or lose a spouse in the process. For Patek, the annual calendar is a cornerstone product, and has been used in countless watches, from elegant limited editions to sporty chronographs in multiple guises. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d643c396-91c8-4d35-9780-6a3016390617"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Other manufacturers soon followed suit and produced their own annual calendar wristwatches, with Bulgari, Breitling, Omega, and A. Lange & Söhne all making the complication over the years. Even Rolex makes an annual calendar in its Sky-Dweller.</p>\n<p>Still, the annual calendar watch is still not nearly as prominent as its older, more complicated sibling. This is particularly true when it comes to A. Lange & Söhne – other than the watch we have here, the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-saxonia-annual-calendar-in-platinum/" target=\"_blank\">Saxonia Annual Calendar</a> is the only other annual in Lange's line-up. It was released in 2010 and nothing new had been introduced since then. That could very well be for a reason – the annual calendar is a vastly simpler complication to produce than a perpetual and many purists believe that it is beneath the level of refinement expected from the likes of Patek Philippe, Lange & Söhne, and Vacheron Constantin. An annual calendar makes sense for an Omega, a Rolex, and IWC, but not a top tier brand, is what they would argue. But, the wants of a purist is not what sells watches (at least, not exclusively) and the annual calendar remains a popular product in both high-end and mid-tier watch brands. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The 1815 Family"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>To understand this new annual calendar, one must first understand the 1815 family. The 1815 collection was first introduced in 1996, and is a nod to the birth year of Ferdinand A. Lange, the brand's original founder. It is characterized by the large, painted Arabic numerals that mimic those of early pocket watches. This design trait is repeated through the entire collection, which ranges from a time-only wristwatch to, well, much more. As you can see, the Annual Calendar fits nicely into this collection, with its well-balanced dial and pronounced Arabic numerals.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>The most complicated A. Lange & Söhne ever made, the 50mm, $2.6million Grand Complication is actually a part of the 1815 family. You can watch an exclusive video we produced on this incredible watch <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-a-lange-sohne-grand-complication/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.</p>","title":"Did you know?","images":["174a68c8-4e40-474c-bde4-1b7974474a1b"],"alignment":"left"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The 1815 Collection ranges from the super-simple time-only watch to the super-complicated Grand Complication. There is one time-only model; one up-down (power reserve); two chronographs; two tourbillons; one <i>rattrapante</i> chronograph perpetual calendar, one \"Tourbograph\" perpetual calendar, and one grand complication. Almost every complication has been addressed in this collection, so the annual calendar is a welcome addition in more ways than one. Not only is it more approachable from a technical standpoint, it fits nicely into the pricing structure of Lange and the 1815 Collection.</p>\n<p>To put things in perspective, the 1815 Annual Calendar sits right between the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-with-the-a-lange-shne-1815-updown-full-specs-live-pics-official-pricing/" target=\"_blank\">1815 Up-Down</a>, which was released in 2013 and retails for $28,600 in white gold, and the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-lange-and-sohne-1815-chronograph-revisited/" target=\"_blank\">1815 Chronograph, which weighs in at $51,500</a>. As you can see, the Annual Calendar fits in nicely, and closes the gap between the two watches within the collection. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["533ff2ec-381c-4eba-8d29-9675658e1e0a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Case"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The 1815 Annual Calendar comes in two metals – white and rose gold. As you may know, I'm a sucker for white metals and decided to go with the white gold model you see here. The case measures 40mm in diameter and 10.1mm thick. It is the only 40mm watch in the 1815 collection, with the rest ranging from <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.alange-soehne.com/en/timepieces/1815/#1815/introduction/235-032\" target=\"_blank\">38.5mm for the time-only</a> model, to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.alange-soehne.com/en/timepieces/1815/#grand-complication/introduction/912-032\" target=\"_blank\">55mm for the Grand Complication</a>. </p>\n<p>Watches at 40mm can be many things to many people – too big for some, too small for others, and still yet just right for others. The exact proportions and the details can make a big difference. For example, Lange bezels tend to be on the thinner side, and the bezel here is no exception, making the watch wear a little large. However, the watch neatly balances being both slender and sturdy, and it feels a commanding presence in the palm of your hand, with the right bit of heft, as anyone who has had the opportunity to handle a Lange knows well.</p>\n<p>One of the nicest things about the case is the brushed band around the sides. Not every manufacturer pays attention to details like this, but Lange does, and it help sets the German watchmaker's creations apart from those of competitors. The mix of the polished, rounded bezel and the brushed case band adds contrast and depth to what would otherwise be a relatively traditional case.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["52724bf7-ec40-4b23-a47a-bc93db1beb30"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The lugs are slightly on the small side for a 40mm case. While this could easily ruin the balance of an otherwise great watch, that is not the case for the 1815 Annual Calendar. The shorter lugs actually allow the case to feel smaller on the wrist, which is a plus for those who might be afraid to take the 40mm plunge. But the best part about this case? The day/date corrector button located at two o'clock.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"inline","quote":"<p>With the 1815, you can just push the beautifully curved rectangular button at two o'clock and the date and day will advance simultaneously. Consider yourself #blessed for not having do deal with the hassle that is corrector pins. </p>","source":""},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The 1815 Annual Calendar is manually-wound, with a power reserve of 72 hours. That means if you let your watch go more than three days between windings (say you leave it on your dresser over a long weekend, for example), you'll need to correct the day and date. Luckily, you can just push the beautifully curved rectangular button and the date and day will advance simultaneously. Consider yourself #blessed for saving the extra minute you'd otherwise spend fiddling with corrector buttons. For all other setting needs though you will have to switch over to the old-fashioned flush-set correctors (and a setting pin) which are fine, but not nearly as efficient – though with the 1815 Annual Calendar, you will only need to, in theory, use them once. This kind of quick-correction system sounds like something that should be common on calendar watches, but it's actually anything but. I really appreciated having it here. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["99062117-609a-4506-8a86-4cd1295fce77"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Dial"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["10fd2376-a6c4-4164-9533-449b49ef32df"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The dial on the Annual Calendar is probably my favorite thing about the watch overall. It’s sleek, legible, and displays all the necessary information directly and clearly. Everything has a purpose and a place. First things first: the dial color is a matte silver, with brushing so fine you can’t even detect the texture in most lighting conditions. It still has a sort of special glow though, radiating in the light and maintaining a subtle luster in darker conditions. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["ac6598c4-501b-41ba-b7ae-43d0f3857da0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are three sub-dials; one for the month, another for the moonphase and running seconds, and a third for the day and date. Each sub-dial is meticulously crafted, with the text laid out with incredible balance. A continuous theme on the dial is concentric circles. The center of the dial is recessed, with the sub-dials placed centrally over the recessed line, all appearing to be on the same plane. This gives the dial depth, and makes it all the more interesting to gaze at throughout the day.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["cbb690d4-0bad-43a5-b83b-703c16b59fe8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The hands are bright blued steel that contrasts nicely against the cool silvered dial. The same blue is reflected in the moonphase (accurate for up to 122 years, mind you) which is dusted with stars too. But I think the thing I love the most is the way that the text is laid out throughout. The two sub-dials for the day/date and the month both feature a lot of text – so much in fact that many watchmakers would end up with a total mess. Not Lange, though. No, they have managed to create a pleasing display of information that is both visually striking and practical, though when the watch was launched, the same purists that likely protested Patek making an annual calendar in 1996 complained against \"Annual Calendar\" being written on the right sub-dial. Meh, whatever.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The only previous Lange Annual Calendar, the aforementioned Saxonia Annual Calendar, uses the caliber L085.1, which is automatic and features a micro-rotor (yay!). The 1815 uses a brand new caliber, the L051.3, which is both larger in size and manually-wound. The caliber L051.3 is comprised of 346 components and is 30.6mm in diameter and 5.7mm thick, with the calendar module itself is only 1.4mm thick. As mentioned, the power reserve is 72 hours, up from the 46 hours of the 476-component L085.1 found in the Saxonia.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["bbbecbb3-3e6b-4569-bd16-36bb1aa7bd57"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["c269e1f5-4efa-4951-8bdc-8682d71eae02"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The question of having a manually-winding movement instead of an automatic movement, is a time-old watch tale and is much debated about amongst purists (more on that later). While I am typically an automatic gal (I confess, I like to grab and go), I think there is a time and place for every kind of movement. For the 1815 Annual Calendar, I think the manual-winding movement is necessary for many reasons. One, with no rotor or <del>cute</del> micro-rotor, the watch has a thinner profile which ultimately means it's more comfortable. Secondly, having a hand-wound movement allows one to enjoy this watch every day while winding it, and let's get real, if you are going to spend $40,400 you should be enjoying this watch all the time. Thirdly, Lange makes an exceptional manual-winding movement and I mean <i>exceptional</i>. The story doesn't end here, and I'll bring up the whole manual versus automatic again later.</p>\n<p>The caliber L051.3 is stunning. With this manual-winding movement you get the beautifully hand-finished German silver three-quarter plated movement with over-sized rubies set in gold screwed chatons, a subtle but meaningful aesthetic. Another thing I love about the Lange movements are the hand-engraved balance-cocks, they add a nice flourish of detail that is often overlooked. But the thing I love most about this movement is the 1.4mm thick annual calendar module, which further allows the watch to measure 10.10mm thick, which again allows for easy wearing. This just goes to show how Lange always wins at marrying form and high-performing function. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A Week On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["941dacdd-bf37-497d-89ab-8b4799f55a5f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I have to say, I was apprehensive when the 1815 Annual Calendar first arrived in the office. A complicated watch like an annual calendar watch can be a little intimidating, especially for someone who generally wears a stainless steel chronograph. Additionally, the 40mm case looked bigger than I remembered it at SIHH (I blame the jet lag). However, once I put this puppy on my wrist, my fears quickly dissipated.</p>\n<p>Not only was the watch wearable, it was downright comfortable. At first I just wore it around the office, and sitting at my desk while typing, I couldn't help but stare at it. Writing emails soon became a joy as the silvered dial flickered in the late afternoon light. Then I went outside at dusk, and it was even better. I'm pretty sure that I stopped to check my wrist at almost every street corner (whether I had the walk signal or not). There is something so satisfying about a well-made silvered dial – it almost glows in a way that you just can't explain – and the luster of the white gold case only added to my satisfaction (have I mentioned that I like white gold?).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["d2e1f7e1-0f51-4b13-861a-2bad393000b7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As I mentioned, a 40mm diameter can be touch and go, depending on the watch. While my Daytona is also 40mm, it's a tool watch and (at least to me) would feel silly much smaller or larger. At the same diameter and 10.10mm thick, the 1815 is streamlined and elegant, but understated (which is hard to achieve) allowing you to wear it comfortably with jeans and a t-shirt, or equally well with a suit. I won't make so bold as to say that you could wear it with a tuxedo, but if you were in a pinch, I don't think I would blame you. </p>\n<p>My only suggestion for this watch would be to mix it up with the strap. I wore it on both the black alligator strap that accompanied the watch, and one of the HODINKEE Shop's Olive Green Suede straps. Of course, each one serves a different purpose, but I was amazed at the versatility of the watch when the strap was changed. It instantly felt like a daily wear piece when paired with a more casual strap choice. My only qualm (if you can call it that) is this watch – nay, all Langes, in my opinion – should come on a deployant buckle. The head of this watch is substantial, and a small Lange pin buckle felt far too delicate to support it. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now that you know what the 1815 Annual Calendar is all about, it's worth looking at what other annual calendars are out there. In short, there aren't many that are at this level of craftsmanship and finishing. When I began to dig around, it was very clear to me that this complication is rarer than I first expected. That said, there are a few good options out there you should know about.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["504dec54-d738-4831-9940-af28e3b34e5e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you didn't think this was coming, I don't know what you were thinking. As far as the basics go, this watch is smaller at 38.5mm in diameter and at the center is the signature oversized date display that Lange is known for <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/five-date-displays-done-well/" target=\"_blank\">(arguably one of the best date displays out there)</a>. The more minimal layout allows for easy reading, and the automatic movement is great for those who don't necessarily want to wind their watch everyday. However, I think that 1815 is definitely a step up aesthetically and functionally, though both could be debated. The Saxonia Annual Calendar comes in platinum, white gold, or rose gold, with the white gold version costing $48,800. That's more than $8,000 more than the 1815 Annual Calendar.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Patek Philippe Reference 5396"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["860ad0fb-59eb-480d-8acb-d481cf64852e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The reference 5396 is one of the more desirable modern Pateks out there. With a similar aesthetic to my beloved reference 3448, the ref. 5396 is what modern Patek dreams are made of. It has pure and simple appeal and a reliable and gorgeous movement inside. The case is 38.5mm and it sits low on the wrist, making it a fantastic watch for almost any occasion (except diving). The movement is the automatic caliber 324 S QA LU 24H/303, which has a 45-hour power reserve. It displays the day, date, month, and moonphase with three apertures and a lone sub-dial. </p>\n<p>When comparing the ref. 5396 to the 1815 Annual Calendar, for me it's all about that dial layout. Both are beautiful, functional, and well designed; it's just a matter of which is more suited to your taste. With the ref. 5396 priced at $47,970, budget might be a concern too. Again, you pay a serious premium for the Patek Philippe, making the 1815 Annual Calendar look even more wallet-friendly.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar Reference 5035 "},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["c33626d1-61dc-40fb-be66-6076f3ea5032"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For something a little different, there's the IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar reference 5035. The ref. 5035 was released back in 2015 and got a good reception. Jack <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-iwc-portugieser-annual-calendar-reference-iw50350/" target=\"_blank\">went hands-on with it here</a> and it certainly filled a void in the annual calendar market. Based on the classic Portugieser (<i>née</i> Portuguese), it is 44.5mm in diameter, which for an average size human is pretty darn big. It is powered but the automatic caliber 52850, which has a seven-day power reserve; substantially longer than any other annual calendar I could find. </p>\n<p>While the silvered dial is attractive and informative, I find the three window day, date, and month display at the top crowded. Some may like it, but to me it lacks balance and elegance. Price could be a big motivating factor here, with the watch coming in at $21,300 in stainless steel (and a less compelling $31,600 in red gold), offering a way for people to get into an annual calendar at a substantially lower price point. If the complication itself is what you're primarily looking for, this could be an alternative to the 1815 Annual Calendar – otherwise I don't think it's competing for the same audience.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Purists Versus Reality For The Future Of Lange"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Something that few outside of the most inner-cicles of Lange-dom would know about, but I think is worth repeating here, is that when this watch was shown at SIHH this year, a set of collectors were fairly vocal (amongst each other) about how disappointed they were in the product. Why? They felt that this watch simply made no sense as a Lange – using a complication invented by its greatest rival and pairing it with a manually wound movement to, in their opinion, fit a very particular price point of sub-$45,000. First, if a watch's modus operandi is to be a calendar, why do it in an 1815 with no outsized date? Second, an annual calendar is all about convenience, so why would it be manually wound? Sure, it's thinner, but come on, calendar watches should be self-winding! Actually, is this the only manually wound annual calendar in the world? I can't think of another off the top of my head but there must be some others out there – feel free to leave any suggestions in the comments.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6cb0f9ca-a3ae-4833-8a93-76f25d00a3f5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The lack of outsized date and automatic winding system, and the inclusion in the 1815 family, certainly allowed this watch to be less expensive than its Saxonia sibling. And to this one set of collectors – the type of collectors who were buying Langes in the '90s and have owned just about all of them – it didn't sit well. It's as if they almost wanted this watch to be more expensive. I understand the thinking of these astute collectors some of whom I am lucky enough to call pals, but I think they are, simply put, wrong. In fact, I think it's that type of thinking that has put the entire high-end watch industry in a tough spot to begin with. </p>\n<p>Let me explain. I agree, this watch is not the most \"Lange\" Lange to ever come out of Saxony. But what it is, is a solid complication from a great brand at a very reasonable price. And yes, it's manually wound, which makes no sense if you own 10 high-end watches. But that's not who Lange is targeting with this timepiece, they are targeting the young man or woman (maybe about my age) who wants his or her first high-end, complicated watch. And that means it should be manually wound – because that's what enthusiasts want today. Further, anyone complaining that this watch is \"priced too low\" is simply living in a world that doesn't come close to mine, or I would imagine the majority of this planet. When I found out that Lange had made a complicated calendar watch under $45,000, I was thrilled! </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["252a41fb-3ccd-4356-a456-ca2243b7d479"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The last time I was this excited? When I found you could buy <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-sohne-saxonia-thin-37mm-week-on-the-wrist/" target=\"_blank\">a new Saxonia 37mm for under $15,000</a>. Lange is clearly making a concerted effort to offer their particular brand of high-end watchmaking to more people each year, and I know for a fact that the 37mm Saxonia cannot be kept in stock. And what's more, people are paying full retail for it instead of chasing used pieces from resellers. I expect the same thing here with the annual calendar – when you make a compelling product and price it appropriately, you create a much stronger relationship with your clients and I am thrilled to see Lange taking these steps, no matter what the old guard says. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So there you have it, the 1815 Annual Calendar from A. Lange & Söhne is truly one of the more wearable and exceptional watches released this year. While the annual calendar function is still considered to be a mid-level complication, I think the 1815 elevates it, wearing like a much more complicated (and much more expensive) watch than it is. Discovering that there are so few annual calendars out there, and even fewer worth buying, only sets it apart even more as a watch I not only appreciate but would actually consider buying some day.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["80bd6301-5735-47d8-9ceb-2c4c8c7e2ca2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This relatively new complication deserves a lot more credit from collectors and a lot more attention from watchmakers, especially when you consider that an entry-level modern perpetual calendar starts at almost double the $40,400 cost of the 1815. To further put things in perspective, this year's <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5320g-perpetual-calendar-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">Patek Philippe reference 5320G perpetual calendar will set you back $81,200</a> and the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-a-lange-sohne-langematik-perpetual/" target=\"_blank\">A. Lange & Söhne Langematik Perpetual fetches $84,200 in white gold</a>. </p>\n<p>If you are looking to break into the world of serious complications without going for broke, this watch is a clear front runner in the market and a watch you should spend some time with yourself. It has everything you want and need, and then some.</p>\n<p>For more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.alange-soehne.com/en?&mid=787xqw38809&mkwid=sfhRowIxC_dc&pcrid=94347012130&kword=a%20lange%20and%20sohne&match=e&plid=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9ZvIuYmK1gIVgoJpCh0_uw9JEAAYASAAEgKLyvD_BwE\%22 target=\"_blank\">visit A. Lange & Söhne online</a>. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>Update: The original version of this story noted the price of the 1815 Annual Calendar was $36,600. This was the pricing announced at SIHH in January 2017, but A. Lange & Söhne has since updated their prices. The article now contains the correct, current price as of September 2017.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"0aeeaacd-94d1-4e32-aae7-29c3ae73f2bc","container_id":4719,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1504718442599-cy2rgseig1r-fae73fd97b238acdfa11cd78e60e4a40/3h0a2992.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-08-17T10:38:33.967-04:00","updated_at":"2017-09-06T13:21:01.711-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1504718442599-cy2rgseig1r-fae73fd97b238acdfa11cd78e60e4a40/3h0a2992.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-sohne-1815-annual-calendar-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Annual Calendar","tags":[]},{"id":4730,"slug":"ferdinand-berthoud-chronometre-fb-1-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-09-05T13:01:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-08-23T12:33:25.946-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:32.602-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>Seven days with a high-test \"marine chronometer for the wrist.\"</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":26119,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>Back in September 2015, Chopard Group launched a new brand. The new company was named for one of the most important figures in the evolution of precision timekeeping: the Swiss chronometer maker Ferdinand Berthoud (1727-1807). We took a fairly in-depth look at the life and work of Berthoud in <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-chopard-group-launches-la-chronometrie-ferdinand-berthoud-and-fb-1-a-marine-chronometer-for-the/" target=\"_blank\">our In-Depth introduction to the new company's first watch</a> – the Chronomètre FB 1 – and particularly at his rather tumultuous relationship with Pierre Le Roy, his biggest rival in France. Berthoud spent most of his professional life in France, and perhaps just to put his life in context, we can look again at what Commander Rupert T. Gould has to say about Berthoud in The Marine Chronometer, Its History And Development: </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["eeabb3b3-e166-4817-aeab-daf2fbda4793"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>“Although practically the whole of his working life was passed in France, he is justly regarded in his native land as one of the greatest of all Swiss horologists who have done so much to advance both the science of horology, and the prosperity of their country...he is chiefly remarkable for his extraordinary industry, as both maker and author – he was the most voluminous writer on horology who ever lived – and for the marvelous variety of his conceptions...his deservedly great fame must rest at least as much upon his writings as his mechanisms.”</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The inspiration for the Chronomètre FB 1 was the architecture of the classic marine chronometer, and the features of such timpieces. Generally, for obvious reasons marine chronometers had a long power reserve, and a design that made observing any daily variations in rate as easy as possible. Internally, they virtually always had a chain and <i>fusée, </i>which is a device intended to provide an unvarying amount of torque to the balance. The latter is not typically found in a wristwatch because of the amount of space it takes up in the movement, although there are a (very) few high end watchmakers that use them, including Lange, and of course Breguet. </p>\n\n<p>The FB 1 also has a tourbillon, which is very much from the world of watches rather than marine chronometers. The latter were always placed in gimbaled boxes, so a device like the tourbillon, which is meant to match the rates in the vertical and horizontal positions, would have been unnecessary and even undesirable as the tourbillon puts a considerable extra drain on the energy available for the balance. The power reserve system in the Chronomètre FB 1 is quite interesting as well; instead of the usual differential gear system, the FB 1 has a cone that moves downward as the mainspring runs down; a ruby roller on the surface of the cone transmits its height to the power reserve hand. I should mention that \"chronomètre\" in the name of the watch isn't just window dressing; it's certified as a chronometer by the COSC.</p>\n\n<p>Externally, the Chronomètre FB 1's octagonal design echoes the gimbal system used to keep boxed chronometers level when at sea. There are four sapphire panels set into the sides of the case, to allow a better view of certain features of the movement. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["74f3f338-dd40-46de-9655-b9ff9387a882"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fea02d14-b01c-469f-bfac-7536fb2b455c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I hadn't seen the watch since its introduction in Switzerland, so for all intents and purposes, it was back-to-square-one, first impression time when we received it. For all its complexity, it's not a terribly large watch. The case is 44mm x 13mm, but seems smaller and 13mm is quite slim for a watch with a <i>fusée </i>and a 56 hour power reserve. In rose gold the case geometry is a bit more pronounced than in the white gold version (it's offered only in white or rose gold) and in that metal, perhaps more overtly luxurious, but given the degree of visual hyperbole that usually travels along with high concept timepieces like this, the overall effect is surprisingly dignified. There are ceramic inserts between the lugs which act as strap carriers, and along with the slate colored dial, it's a great combination of black/near black, and gold.</p>\n\n<p>The dial arrangement has a superficial resemblance to a regulator dial, but it's not – a regulator dial has a central minute hand and hour hand in a subdial, while the FB 1 has a center seconds hand, and the time in a subdial. The impression of precision you get from the FB 1 is very definite – it feels like a luxury precision instrument, rather than a luxury or design object first, and a precision machine second.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["15cf8463-077c-4488-bfdb-ad5dd9913bfb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Generally speaking, super-watches like this have three jobs; the first is to succeed as design objects <i>per se; </i>the second is to present some compelling take on mechanical timekeeping; the third is to <i>look </i>the part – that is, they are to some degree social signals and social display objects. The Chronomètre FB 1 certainly can fill the bill in terms of the third requirement; it's unusual enough to not be mistaken for any other watch, and it's certainly not a watch that any owner need worry about seeing on someone else's wrist. However, it manages to be different without looking like it's doing so just for the sake of being different, and the fact that the design is noticeable without feeling attention-seeking, is a huge plus in making the concept of a connection to the spirit of a 19th century chronometer maker plausible.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e2a2cdbf-4748-4064-a80b-f8e261fbd4f8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In many instances this kind of watch is visually impressive and technically interesting as well but not especially practical to wear on an every day basis. Of course, one of the purposes of a marine chronometer historically was to run accurately with as little rate variation as possible, for days and weeks at a time, so the idea of a chronometer that you only wear on special occasions is kind of counter to the whole spirit of the thing. The Chronomètre FB 1 is actually a watch I can see wearing, if not every day, then at least with much more frequency than you'd ordinarily associate with a high end, very small batch complicated watch with high end finishing, and a number of out-of-the ordinary mechanical solutions.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e700f7a6-e9f4-47ed-8464-cfe15d4d9831"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The exterior of the watch and the wearing experience are in this case very much dictated by the design of the movement and its level of finishing – in that sense, you could say that the Chronomètre FB 1 wears its heart on its sleeve. In fact, the watch clearly is intended to make the movement a part of not just the overall design, but of the actual wearing experience; the Chronomètre FB 1 has a very well integrated open dial showing the one minute tourbillon carriage, and the 1:1 gearing by means of which it drives the center seconds hand. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["357570d0-f971-4695-a95f-b6da396537d1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_left"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The view through the caseback isn't a primary aspect of the wearing experience <i>per se,</i> but in the case of the Chronomètre FB 1, it's certainly value added and then some, giving you a compelling show if you have the watch off your wrist and on a bedside nightstand. The level of finish is excellent and the overall design beautifully balanced, with three circular elements – the base of the <i>fusée </i>cone, the base of the mainspring barrel, and the tourbillon – centered around a very elegantly shaped cock for the tourbillon carriage. The <i>fusée </i>cone is at 3:00 and you can see the crown wheel at 6:00 – remember, when you wind a watch with a <i>fusée, </i>you're actually winding the chain off the mainspring barrel onto the cone, which is why the click is on the <i>fusée </i>as well. You can also see a Maltese Cross stopworks on the mainspring barrel, which restricts the available power reserve from the mainspring to the section that offers the best delivery of energy (a common feature in chronometers and high grade pocket watches as well, by the way).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["fcbf93f5-9e36-41ac-b1b9-a93a2a9b297a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>You can also clearly see the four timing weights on the freesprung balance, as well as the Breguet overcoil balance spring. In fact, the Chronomètre FB 1 is a veritable museum of all the features of a high grade chronometer pocket watch: freesprung balance with overcoil spring, chain-and-<i>fusée, </i>stopworks, and a longer-than-average power reserve, with power reserve indication – and, of course, a tourbillon. That it's a combination of both marine chronometer and portable watch elements is, I think, not so much a mark against the FB 1 as it is a recognition that it's not a copy-paste of a marine chronometer, but a wristwatch that is influenced by the marine chronometer in particular, and the history of precision mechanical horology in general.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bc8b2b65-83eb-4fce-bc00-d47330cb8687"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's worth mentioning, by the way, that on the wrist during the day and dial up at night on the nightstand, the Chronomètre FB 1 gained exactly three seconds a day, every day, steady as you please; stability of rate more than accuracy as such, is of course the hallmark of a real precision timepiece.</p>\n\n<p>It's a cliché to say a large-ish watch is \"suprisingly wearable\" but it's nonetheless true for the Chronomètre FB 1. More to the point, it's a watch obviously full of lavish high end watchmaking that also feels plausible as a frequent companion on the wrist – an unusual and unexpected benefit of its exhaustive cataloguing of all the most essential elements of precision timekeeping from the horological Age Of Heroes. </p>\n\n<p><i>Full specs can be found </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-chopard-group-launches-la-chronometrie-ferdinand-berthoud-and-fb-1-a-marine-chronometer-for-the/" target=\"_blank\"><i>in our in-depth introduction</i></a><i>; see the </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.ferdinandberthoud.ch/en//" target=\"_blank\"><i>FB 1 at ferdinandberthoud.ch.</i></a><i> Price, $222,890, available by application via request for private meeting. Contact </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/\"mailto:contact@ferdinandberthoud.ch/" target=\"\"><i>c</i>ontact@ferdinandberthoud.ch</a> for more.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"9fb3ba73-afc8-46bc-9262-b3af47c0cafd","container_id":4730,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1503502907922-xl983dcavnc-b5ebfdeaee3f84a22726aec770106651/hero.jpg","width":4935,"height":2776,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2017-08-23T12:33:26.138-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:12:20.335-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1503502907922-xl983dcavnc-b5ebfdeaee3f84a22726aec770106651/hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ferdinand-berthoud-chronometre-fb-1-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1","tags":[]},{"id":4722,"slug":"bulgari-octo-finissimo-automatique-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra-Thin Automatique","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-08-30T12:09:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-08-18T14:55:00.531-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:32.744-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>The ultimate ultra-thin turns out to be ultra wrist-friendly too.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":85475,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra-Thin Automatique made a very big splash at Baselworld last March, and with good reason: it's another technical feather in Bulgari's cap, housing the caliber BVL 138, which is the new record holder for the world's thinnest automatic movement. The AP 2120/Vacheron Constantin 1120/JLC 920 continues to be the world's thinnest full-rotor automatic, as it has been since 1967, which gives you a sense of how rare it is to see new records set in extra-flat watchmaking. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d86071cb-8dc8-483f-a848-048e7d1325cf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bulgari-octo-finissimo-automatique-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">Our first impressions of both versions of the Octo Finissimo Ultra-Thin Automatique</a> were extremely positive – on either a strap or a bracelet, the watch is unbelievably light and slim, and the faceted titanium case design captures all the traditional charm of an ultra-thin wristwatch while feeling very contemporary at the same time. It's still true, though, that you can discover things about a watch after wearing it for an extended period of time that aren't immediately apparent when you just pick it up and handle it at a trade show – no matter how strong the first impression, it's still just a first impression.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A refresher on the basics: the watch is 40mm in diameter and 5.15mm thick, with sapphire crystals front and back, and the whole job of the case is really to express both the traditional appeal of ultra-thin watchmaking, and, at the same time, to keep the whole thing forward-looking enough to appeal to a broader audience. Not for nothing is ultra-thin watchmaking something that the majority of people looking for a luxury mechanical watch don't consider; these watches are indisputably elegant, and making ultra-thin movements and cases that are suitable for them is difficult enough that it's sometimes described as a sort of separate complication in its own right. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>However, historically they've also been as delicate as they look, with little to nothing in the way of water resistance, a need for more frequent servicing than you would expect for a non-ultra-thin movement, and a need for specialist watchmakers capable of working within the absurdly demanding tolerances characteristic of ultra flat watches – not just in the movement per se, but in the case, dial and hands as well, where there's just no spare headroom at all.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["824e52d3-fd80-4bb4-9217-393e0f0cf465"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is where the Octo Finissimo Ultra-Thin really shines. Just about every other ultra-thin watch I've ever worn, with few exceptions, has felt a bit fragile; you're always aware that you have something on that was designed to push the boundaries of flatness, not robustness (or accuracy, for that matter) and that you serve yourself and the watch best by remembering to take a little extra care when handling it. One of the few exceptions to this I can think of are the Royal Oak Jumbo and the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-vacheron-constantin-overseas-ultra-thin-and-some-highly-subjective-thoughts-on-the-perfect-watch/" target=\"_blank\">Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin</a>, but even then, those two watches have such highly finished and polished cases and bracelets that again, you feel like you need to take a little extra care wearing them.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Octo Finissimo Ultra-Thin, on the other hand, seems to make no such demands at all. I'm not sure what it is about it that makes it so easy to wear – well, first of all, there's the titanium case, which at 40mm x 5.15mm is remarkably light and comfortable. Then there's the finish – unlike the jewel-like facets of the Jumbo or the Overseas, the entire watch is an even, matte grey; it feels very utilitarian but at the same time very clean and sculptural. It comes on either a strap or a bracelet and interestingly enough, on a strap it feels a bit more like a conventional ultra-thin watch; certainly still very easy to wear and definitely still not a watch that wants to be treated gingerly, but it's really on its matching titanium bracelet, I think, that the Octo Finissimo Ultra-Thin comes into its own.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["a5eaf854-81c2-4609-8c2d-0fde275d5df4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e93dbd5d-b7f8-46b1-b31d-87667561dd0f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The industrial-chic design of the Octo Finissimo Ultra-Thin really encourages you to wear it. During the week I had it on, it felt incredibly natural to wear every day; one of those watches that you just put on and go. Light, warm, and comfortable, it kept excellent time and I had no hesitation about wearing it while at the same time doing everything from working at my desk (often, I'll take off whatever watch I'm wearing while writing in order to avoid scratching the clasp or buckle on the desk surface) to washing dishes, folding laundry, wandering around New York, camera and notebook in hand, chasing stories, and what have you. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["0c2d140f-1006-467a-b4db-1f9392902713"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["61d4ec29-1d24-4be3-9aed-f3ceb45a09af"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It was a quite delightful and interesting daily companion to have when spending time with other watch enthusiasts as well; unusual but at the same time very inviting, with of course, the added pleasure of being able to share the experience of Bulgari's caliber BVL 138 Finissimo movement (2.23mm x 36.6mm; a somewhat large diameter for an ultra-thin watch but the extra diameter is probably necessary in a watch where you have both a 60-hour power reserve, and a platinum micro-rotor and automatic winding train in the same plane as the mainplate.)</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>My feelings about the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra-Thin after spending a week with it were really pretty straightforward: I liked it. I liked it a lot, and I liked the fact that despite its cooly urbane, rather postmodern physical design and monochrome palette, it somehow became a very warm presence and the last thing I'd ever have expected from an ultra-thin watch: it's a great every day watch. Water resistances is 30 meters so it's not an every day watch to the extent that you could take it diving (at 30m I wouldn't necessarily wear it swimming either) but in just about every other respect it really came across as a go anywhere, do anything watch. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1be8c474-feeb-4998-bc02-2b961fbeaa0e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This is a very interesting direction for Bulgari stylistically; this kind of design is a bit of a departure for them – you think of Bulgari and you think of bold, almost Imperial Roman-feeling design work, heavy on the precious metals, with an overt celebration of opulence for its own sake. Here, you get the characteristic Bulgari clarity of design, but coupled with a toned-down stealth-luxury feel that has an almost German/Bauhaus feel. The fact that things like the dial fonts and complex case geometry keep it connected to the Bulgari world, however, means that it feels like a natural addition to Bulgari's watchmaking lineup, rather an a one-off or an aberration, and it'll be interesting to see where Bulgari goes with this next.</p>\n\n<p><i>The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatique: on a titanium bracelet, $13,900; on a strap, $12,800. Movement, caliber BVL 138 Finissimo, automatic winding via a platinum micro-rotor; decorated with Cotes de Genève, chamfered bridges, and a circular-grained mainplate; 2.23mm thick x 36.60mm, 21,600 V/H, 60-hour power reserve. Case, 40mm in sandblasted titanium, transparent case-back, 5.15mm thick; titanium crown with ceramic insert; water-resistant to 30m; titanium dial, black hands with PVD treatment; titanium bracelet with folding clasp or black alligator leather with titanium pin buckle. See Bulgari's timepiece collections </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.bulgari.com/en-us/#\" target=\"_blank\"><i>online at Bulgari.com.</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"23261f6c-c8b9-4b41-b29e-7161db65e48a","container_id":4722,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1503080679757-u500opjt7oa-2e3c50fc2a52c087e03f7b4e4030c14c/hero.jpg","width":5050,"height":2841,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2017-08-18T14:55:00.565-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:12:38.847-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1503080679757-u500opjt7oa-2e3c50fc2a52c087e03f7b4e4030c14c/hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bulgari-octo-finissimo-automatique-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra-Thin Automatique","tags":[]},{"id":4645,"slug":"tudor-black-bay-chronograph-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Tudor Black Bay Chronograph","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-07-19T11:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-07-13T12:48:36.903-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:32.903-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>Do a movement from Breitling, and a design that mixes vintage dive watch and chronograph details, add up to a winning watch?</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":163459,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Tudor Black Bay Chronograph was <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tudor-black-bay-chronograph-caliber-mt5813-breitling-collaboration/" target=\"_blank\">first shown at Baselworld 2017</a>, and right away it was the center of a great deal of attention and not a small amount of controversy. </p>\n\n<p>First of all, it was the very first Tudor chronograph to use the Breitling B01 chronograph movement, which was a startling move to say the least, and one which few if any outside Breitling and Tudor saw coming. The movement is an excellent one technically; many in the industry praised its overall engineering and watchmaker-friendly design when it first debuted, and all of the excellent technical properties of this modern, column wheel, vertical clutch controlled chronograph are obviously present in the Tudor version, but it was still a bit of a surprise.</p>\n\n<p>Secondly, there was the design, which combines elements of both vintage diver and chronograph watches – there are plenty of watches that combine features of both types of watches, but there seemed to be some feeling among vintage Tudor purists that these design domains should remain distinct from each other.</p>\n\n<p>And finally, of course, there was the question of the hands, and whether or not the snowflake hour hand was a less-than-terrific idea for a chronograph. Let's take a closer look at the watch, and how it fared during A Week On The Wrist.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["6863b14d-e6c0-41a1-a48b-fbf475618c06"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>First a quick refresher on the movement. The version of the B01 as modified and used by Tudor is called MT5813 and there are some significant differences between the base movement and the Tudor version. Most notably, the caliber MT5813 has a free-sprung adjustable mass balance and uses a silicon balance spring. A free-sprung balance should be less susceptible to variation in rate over time and silicon provides much better resistance to the adverse effects of external magnetic fields on a watch as well. There is shock protection on both the balance staff and the escape wheel. It's a relatively fast-beat modern movement, at 28,800 vph and in general gives the impression of a mechanism that should tolerate anything you can reasonably expect to throw at it. One other modification: the caliber MT5813 has a 45 minute, rather than a 30 minute, chronograph register.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["146ec806-a64e-4f57-b309-3071079f7013"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ced5119c-29d4-47e8-94b5-9b8f66f52495"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The first impression I got when I picked up the Black Bay Chronograph at Baselworld was of impressive solidity, if a fair amount of heft too. The case and bracelet both have a very attractive sculpted quality with the bevels on the lugs doing much to add some elegance to what otherwise might be a somewhat stolid design. That touch as well as the details added by such features as the knurling on the screw down chronograph pushers, as well as the engraved tachymeter scale on the (non-rotating) bezel help keep the watch feeling pleasantly overbuilt without seeming excessively static. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["3bc2751a-ee99-4c14-a4c9-75292f56fc07"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The dial and hands are as you would expect from Tudor/Rolex: very cleanly done technically, extremely legible, and in general quite well executed. If you like the snowflake hands on the non-chronograph Black Bay models, you'll like them here (leaving aside for the moment the question of the degree to which the snowflake hour hand may obscure the 45-minute chronograph register). The dial has a subtle grained finish that extends into the sunken sub-dials and again, the texture helps keep the whole composition feeling warm and approachable. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b6b68b59-15ae-4294-8452-42214eac3338"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2f0c680a-e1d5-49a7-805c-46b80c172d51"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The bracelet and clasp are amazing. There is absolutely no play whatsoever in between the links, and operating the fliplock clasp gives the same pleasurable sense of interaction with a precision piece of machinery that, say, operating the film advance lever on a vintage Leica provides. Unlike many clasps this one feels specifically engineered not just for functional excellence but for tactile pleasure as well (of course to some extent the two go hand in hand). Thanks to the solidity of the bracelet the watch though slightly on the heavier side sits very comfortably on the wrist, with a sense of mass to be sure, but mass kept well controlled. I'm reluctant to say \"built like a tank\" both because it is a cliché and because there have been some pretty terrible tanks (<i>Kugelpanzer </i>ball tank,<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kugelpanzer/" target=\"_blank\"> I'm looking at you</a>) but in this case the cliché is apt.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["bf0bbd49-5db2-4c01-9b55-c1c81a96fdd7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2097a4e7-84f7-40c7-bed5-43785afadf7c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["838bd4b4-79f4-478b-ad83-38691315590f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>During the week I wore the Tudor Black Bay Chronograph, I never ceased to find it an extremely satisfying watch to wear in many respects. It kept excellent time (gaining about one and a half seconds per day, which is Superlative Chronometer level stuff, thanks to the well-designed and well-set-up regulating system) and was a comfortable fit with everything from jeans and a t-shirt to a button up shirt and jacket, though the thickness of the Black Bay Chronograph was a bit of a challenge even for the fairly loose-fitting cuffs of a Brooks Brothers shirt (case dimensions are 41mm x 14.9mm). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Stylistically, the Black Bay Chronograph is a mixture of elements from both vintage Tudor dive watch and chronograph production, including the riveted link bracelet seen on some Tudor Submariners (and of course the snowflake hour hand) as well as the general design of the screw down pushers, crown, and case guards from the Tudor Oysterdate chronographs. The combination works well from a design standpoint, and there's nothing aesthetically dissonant about seeing these design cues together, with all the pieces contributing to the overall sport-vintage vibe.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["844f5777-717a-4a07-8d1f-6653d3c04a4a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Operating the chronograph is perhaps more of an exercise in well-executed technical functionality than sybaritic tactile pleasure. On the sample I had, a little additional effort seemed necessary to push the start button through the detent but let-off was crisp and positive (and, let's remember, being able to deploy that well-worn horological cliché \"buttery smooth\" seriously generally requires spending more money). </p>\n\n<p>Additionally, the screw-down crowns on the pushers were very easy and exact to operate – one of the most noticeable differences between a watch with high quality casing components and one without, is the ease with which things like screw-down crowns can be engaged or disengaged. If the start-stop action was a bit stiff (though in no way rough or imprecise) the threads engaged on the winding crown and pushers with wonderful smoothness. This along with the very clean machining of the case, and the strongly and precisely made bracelet, all went to reinforce the impression of handling and wearing a piece of carefully thought through, sturdy machinery.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["006f3183-d0bd-42fb-828a-f3fcd1d99a77"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now to the meat of the question with the Black Bay Chronograph, the $64,000 question as it were. Does the snowflake hour hand block read off of the 45 minute subdial to such a degree that it constitutes a truly unacceptable design flaw? </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["20e842e2-4caf-45bd-b2f5-fded4cbf1a30"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Putting dive watch-legible hands on a chronograph is inherently challenging. Not for nothing are chronograph hands typically on the thinner side, the better to optimize legibility, irrespective of time of day or interval timed. The problem of balancing legibility of the hour and minute hands, with readability of the chronograph, has interested watch designers intermittently probably for as long as chronographs have existed. By and large watch designers have generally accepted that some degree of compromise to one or the other is unavoidable, and inherent to traditional chronograph design (although the issue can certainly be minimized).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_left"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Different layouts can do away with the problem entirely, and watches from the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-the-de-bethune-db29-maxichrono-tourbillon/" target=\"_blank\">DeBethune Maxichrono</a>, to the recent AngeGraphe caliber as used in the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/faberge-visionnaire-chronograph-hands-on/" target=\"_blank\">Fabergé Visionnaire Chronograph</a> and the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/singer-track1-chronograph-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">Singer Track1</a> (as well as the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bring-a-loupe-january-6-2017/" target=\"_blank\">venerable Mido Multicenter Chronograph</a>) have experimented with the idea of placing the chronograph minute hand on the central axis as well. This of course solves one problem but creates another in that legibility can still suffer, but for different reasons (it can require effort to adapt to a different type of display; reading the time generally is more difficult, and so on). </p>\n\n<p>Nonetheless, the search for solutions does reveal that the quest for a perfect answer to the problem of legible chronograph read-off continues in mechanical horology, and underscores that it's a problem everyone has to think about when designing one. So let's talk turkey about the snowflake hour hand in the Black Bay Chronograph.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Yes, it blocks the read-off of the 45 minute register more than I would like. However in daily use, it turns out the problem is actually a minimal one at worst.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["3ac4891c-49b7-40c0-aee2-338b93fa7a33"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Obviously it's only between 2:00 and 4:00 AM or PM that the snowflake hand is in position to block the minutes subdial. Even in those positions, it's only an issue if you are timing intervals longer than roughly 23 minutes (at 4PM) or 36 minutes (at 2PM) as the snowflake only moves across the lefthand side of the dial. And even <i>then, </i>you can still read off the minutes most of the time thanks to the diamond shape of the snowflake, which only blocks a significant segment of the minutes track relatively briefly (at 4PM for instance, the tick marks from 22 to 29 minutes elapse time are blocked). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9b82d1ce-0930-41dc-b8cf-923ba8f2a93f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So basically you're really only looking at obstruction of immediate read-off of the minutes, if you are timing an elapsed time interval somewhere between 23 to 28 minutes long, or 36 to 45 minutes long, and it's somewhere near 2:00 or 4:00 PM, which is a fairly narrow range in which the snowflake itself is an issue. Yes at 3PM, the 33 and 34 minute counters are blocked but you can actually see every single other minute mark. Is a snowflake hand ideal on a chronograph from an absolute legibility perspective? No. Is it in real life going to be a problem for all our laundry cycle, pasta-cooking, egg-timing needs? Very unlikely and I don't think after a week it was ever once an issue for me (I don't drive at a constant speed down a measured mile very often and those three things are what I mostly use mechanical chronos for these days). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9c1386be-f57b-430d-9478-1f24af845a9e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In practice, I didn't find the hour hand to be problematic. It's worth noting as well that there are quite a few <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.audemarspiguet.com/en/watch-collection/royal-oak-offshore/26703ST.OO.A027CA.01//" target=\"_blank\">modern diver's chronograph watches</a> and all of them <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.omegawatches.com/watches/seamaster/planet-ocean-600m/co-axial-master-chronometer-chronograph-455-mm/21530465101002//" target=\"_blank\">represent a compromise</a>, to some degree, between getting the high degree of visibility for the hands that's essential for a diver's watch, and making the hands narrow enough that they don't obscure the chronograph sub-registers. </p>\n\n<p>Over a week, I thoroughly enjoyed having the watch on. It feels very well made indeed (much more so than many other chronograph watches at this price point, maybe most) it has a very attractive, retro-tough-guy design, and inside is a Tudor-tweaked version of one of the most technically well-thought-out chronograph movements out there. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["92fbc79b-c561-47b0-8fb2-b66910b5354c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>At $5050 it seems an excellent value to put it mildly, and unless you foresee needing to know exactly the number of elapsed minutes of events of 23 to 28 minute's duration at 4PM/AM, or 36 to 45 minute's duration at 2PM/AM, you're probably good. In my case this would only be a deal breaker if I were timing a 45 minute dryer load at 2:00 or a 36 minute washing machine load at 4:00 and I found it pretty easy to live with that IRL, as the kids say. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Highly recommended, with the minor caveats noted. Find out all about it <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.tudorwatch.com/watches/new-black-bay-chrono/m79350-0001/" target=\"_blank\">at tudorwatch.com.</a></p>\n\n<p><i>The Tudor Black Bay Chronograph: case, bracelet and clasp in stainless steel; case dimensions 41mm x 14.9mm. Screw-down pushers and crown with black anodized aluminum stem tube. Water resistance, 200 meters. Domed sapphire crystal. Movement, caliber MT5813, modified Breitling B01 with Tudor rotor, freesprung adjustable mass balance, silicon balance spring and escape wheel; vertical clutch column wheel chronograph design. 70 hour power reserve. Price: on a brown leather strap, $4,725; on the (excellent) steel bracelet as shown, $5,050. Both come with an additional woven blue fabric strap.</i></p>\n\n<p><i>Update, 16:46 EST 7/19: wrist shot added.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"bf2c5ebb-8e30-4f4a-bda9-8d176f6b630c","container_id":4645,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1500381808536-e5keqoe4qhr-9a745dbba8b728a0e34e537091a10b0b/aaaa.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2017-07-13T12:48:36.944-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:12:55.446-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1500381808536-e5keqoe4qhr-9a745dbba8b728a0e34e537091a10b0b/aaaa.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tudor-black-bay-chronograph-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Tudor Black Bay Chronograph","tags":[]},{"id":4573,"slug":"the-rolex-sea-dweller-reference-126600","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Rolex Sea-Dweller Reference 126600","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-07-06T11:38:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-06-13T15:10:29.250-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:33.069-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>Everything you ever wanted to know about the new Rolex Sea-Dweller, and probably a lot that you didn't.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106669543001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":303735,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Rolex Sea-Dweller reference 126600 was announced at Baselworld 2017, in celebration of the 50th anniversary of the model (launched in 1967). The Sea-Dweller is one of Rolex's most important, though arguably least commercial products – a true tool watch catering to true professionals. This latest incarnation is very much a Sea-Dweller, but there are many updates, including some that are technically minor but emotionally significant departures from models that came before. In this A Week On The Wrist review, I'll examine those and try to unpack just what they mean. Also, we'll talk about what this watch is meant to do, and what it's not meant to do.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Rolex And The Pursuit of Waterproofness"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["491009e9-2f83-4fbc-8693-1be1207bdcff"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/inside-rolex/" target=\"_blank\">my detailed look at Rolex from 2015</a>, I talk about founder Hans Wildorf's pursuit of three different properties that would come to define Rolex watches: precision timekeeping, an automatic movement, and finally, resistance to water. Why was this so important to Wilsdorf? Because prior to the introduction of the Oyster in 1926, watches (then mostly of the pocket variety) were often seen at sporting events, but always on the sidelines. </p>\n\n<p>However, Wilsdorf believed there was a real market for watches that could be worn during active sports by participants themselves. The early Oyster cases featured the first fluted bezels used by Rolex, so that watchmakers could screw them in tighter to the case middle. Of course, the screw-down Oyster crown was an important innovation from the Rolex family that further allowed wearers of these watches to go deeper than ever before.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In 1953, Rolex and Blancpain both showed professional dive watches (which came first is debatable and therefore frequently debated) and the category that many of us love so much was born. While the Fifty Fathoms was discontinued decades ago before being reintroduced by the modern incarnation of Blancpain, the Submariner has remained a constant force in the watch world for over 60 years. When it was first shown, complete with its screw-down crown, luminous radium dial, and rotating bezel, one could expect water resistance up to an impressive (for that time) 100 meters. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["07649cef-e36f-46b0-bda5-f4d33a7cf475","0de5d733-0cf6-4300-a316-addb763816da"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Indeed, reference 6204 and the original \"big crown\" reference 6200 offered divers remarkably robust tool watches. The later 6205, 6536, and 6538 followed suit, as the did the later Submariners that we all know today. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["802d4c9e-da18-4efd-aaf1-53a955ed84f1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Before that though, Rolex produced what was arguably the <i>ne plus ultra</i> of pre-1950s dive watches as well, they just didn't have the Rolex name on the dial. Yes, some of the original Panerais – during this period created predominantly for Italian military divers – were made completely by Rolex, and feature Rolex cases and movements. It should be noted not all of the early Panerai wristwatches used Rolex movements and cases, but several of the earliest did and they remain very collectible – one such example is the tropical dial piece owned by John Goldberger and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-with-john-goldberger/" target=\"_blank\">seen in his episode of Talking Watches</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>The \"Submariner\" wasn't always intended to be the Submariner, and just as Rolex experimented with names for the Daytona and other now well-known models, there was a time when the Rolex diver could have been called \"Sub-Acqua.\" A few early examples with this name have surfaced over the years such <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/on-the-block-a-first-series-rolex-submariner-but-with-a-different-name-on-the-dial/" target=\"_blank\">as this one at Antiquorum in 2013</a>.</p>","title":"Did You Know?","images":["18fd4f8a-1d30-409a-8455-1d1646a8152b"],"alignment":"left"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Rolex continued to produce the Submariner in a host of variants without interruption, and as you all know, continues to produce it today. In the first couple of decades of consumer and professional dive watch production, there were certainly other serious dive watches out there, but many of them though impressive technically were not widely distributed, and few reached the level of commercial or professional success of the Sub. Omega's Seamaster line is truly the Submariner's only contender in the 1960s for a readily available dive watch, and they should not be over looked – though the story of the Seamaster has far more tangents than that of the Submariner. But this story isn't about the Submariner, is it? Let's move on to the introduction of the <i>other</i> Rolex dive watch, which came about 14 years later.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Introduction Of The OTHER Rolex Dive Watch"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["76094d5a-e63f-4250-8f17-fd2d2616ac4e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In many ways, the Sea-Dweller is the best expression of Rolex as a brand. From its very beginning, the model showed a preoccupation on Rolex's part with extensive over-engineering, and performance above all else. Remember, Rolex already had a more than capable dive watch in the 5512 and 5513 Submariners, and yet it wanted to build something even tougher – a watch meant for those who not only worked, but in some cases, actually lived underwater. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["e85e7db4-f4bf-497c-b828-75a8c56294b1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Sea-Dweller was born in an era when the next great stage of exploration – of extreme environments never before visited – was just beginning. Man had not yet been to the moon. It was just a decade before that Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay scaled Everest for the first time; a few short years later, in 1960, the bathyscaphe <i>Trieste </i>successfully descended to the deepest point in the ocean. It was also during this time that the first permanent research stations were established in Antarctica, and that <i>Nautilus,</i> the first nuclear submarine, traveled under the Polar ice cap to the North Pole.</p>\n\n<p>This was an era of scientific discovery, and the world was captivated by these feats of perseverance and determination to the point where the dive into the Marianas Trench landed Bob Walsh and Jacques Piccard on the cover of <i>Life Magazine</i>, arguably the magazine of record for most Americans at the time. These years of prosperity led to some of mankind's greatest explorations, and it was these feats by the greatest generation that captured the minds and hearts of the baby boomers. There was simply nothing more exciting than exploration in the late 1950s and early 1960s, whether of outer space or the deepest oceans, and this is why it makes perfect sense that during this period, Rolex developed the Sea-Dweller.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Two Experimental Rolex Dive Watches, 52 Years Apart"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["daa3a6d3-5451-418a-818f-51bea7707a0e","d0b13cff-17c3-43a0-844f-41c7db25d63f"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It should be noted that the Sea-Dweller did come after the Deep-Sea Special, the watch clamped to the outside of the <i>Trieste </i>when it descended to the bottom of the Challenger Deep. But that watch was enormous – completely unwearable – and of course, it wasn't even really designed to be worn in the first place. The same can be said for another experimental watch made by Rolex in 2012, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/live-photos-of-james-camerons-rolex/" target=\"_blank\">the Deepsea Challenge</a>, a monster 51mm mega-dive watch that James Cameron strapped to the outside of his vessel when he recreated the historic 1960 dive. The Sea-Dweller wasn't devised as a one-time use tool, or a prototype from which other technology could be taken – it was made for the most serious divers in the world, and meant to be worn daily, over a long period of time.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>Jake Ehrlich from RolexMagazine.com has a wonderful history of Scott Carpenter's time wearing a Rolex both as an astronaut and an aquanaut. He even interviewed Carpenter himself in a 2008 podcast, which <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.bullettrain.com/podcast/ScottCarpenterInterview.mp3/" target=\"_blank\">you can listen to here</a>.</p>","title":"Listen To Scott Carpenter Talk About SEALAB In His Own Words","images":["edcc1b5e-44e3-42e3-a888-2df7c2e05416"],"alignment":"right"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As mentioned, the connection between outer space and \"inner space,\" (a term that was coined by the Eisenhower administration after the successful dives of <i>Trieste</i>) was a real one. In fact, one of NASA's most famous names played a part in both. Scott Carpenter, one of the original seven Mercury astronauts and the pilot of the second manned orbital flight by an American, in Aurora 7, took leave from NASA in 1965 to participate in the U.S. Navy's \"Man-in-the-Sea\" Project called SEALAB. (Because hey, isn't that what most of us would do if given a leave of absence from NASA?) As a team leader for SEALAB II off the coast of La Jolla, California in the summer of 1965, Carpenter and his team members spent 30 days living and working on the ocean floor conducting studies from a seafloor habitat at 205 feet underwater. </p>\n\n<p>With Carpenter was Bob Barth, who was the only man to participate in the three different SEALAB missions. His Submariner reference 5512 was offered for sale a few years back though the seller made no mention of how important this Submariner and its owner were for the development of the Sea-Dweller.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b57ab2c4-fcd4-4fd7-8a99-f29ef583a656"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In an <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hodinkee-exclusive-and-in-depth-bob-barths-historic-sealab-r/" target=\"_blank\">interview conducted by Jason Heaton back in 2012,</a> Barth tells of how he and his fellow crew members, while undergoing decompression in a decompression chamber, would sometimes hear a quick \"pop\" only to find that the crystal of someone's watch – Submariners, Blancpains, and Tudors, mostly – had come off. The basic problem was the helium in the breathing gasses used in SEALAB. Helium forms very small molecules, which can over time penetrate the seals of a dive watch and build up in the case. Divers would spend several days in a decompression chamber, where air pressure would gradually be lowered from that at working depth, to air pressure at sea level. The helium would not be able to leak back out of the watch case quickly enough and the result was increasingly greater pressure inside the watch case – often, enough to pop the crystal off. It was the SEALAB missions that first called for a helium escape valve, which was introduced within the Rolex range on the Sea-Dweller and remains a staple of this model to this day. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>There are a small batch of early Sea-Dwellers that have only one line of red text on the dial. These \"Single Red\" Sea-Dwellers are exceedingly rare, feature a depth range of 500m instead of 600m, and often times do not have a helium escape valve. These are prototypes and generally fetch hundreds of thousands of dollars at auction, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/on-the-block-three-of-our-favorites-from-tomorrows-sale-at-sothebys-ny/" target=\"_blank\">such as this one did in 2013</a>.</p>","title":"The Exceptions To The Rule","images":["8698bef5-edfc-4a30-a147-41cd9059d34b"],"alignment":"left"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Sea-Dweller reference 1665 was introduced in 1967 as Rolex's biggest, baddest, most capable dive watch. It was water resistant to 610 meters, roughly double what a 5513 was rated to at the time, and featured two lines of red text reading \"Sea-Dweller / Submariner 2000\". The crown was a Trip-Lock; the watch featured a date (useful to saturation divers who could spend days in a decompression chamber) and it was the first time a Rolex diver would feature the complication, predating the 1680 Submariner ever so briefly. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The crystal was domed and cyclops-less. The bracelet had an extension clasp that allowed the owner to quickly open up the bracelet to allow it to fit on the outside of a diving suit. This is how the Sea-Dweller was born and how it remained for some time (we would lose the red lettering in the mid 70s around the same time the 1680 lost its red from the dial) and over the years we would see continual improvements to water resistant engineering in Rolex's most professional line. That is, of course, until Rolex killed the Sea-Dweller as we know it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Semi-Sea-Dweller-Less Years"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ca45b629-c64b-4824-8ce9-e1e6793fb92b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now, Rolex is nothing if not consistent. And to think that one of the mighty five Rolex sports watches introduced in the 1950s and 60s could be effectively killed off is hard to believe. But it happened, sort of. From 2009 to 2014, there was no Sea-Dweller in the Rolex catalog. Okay, so there was the 44mm Sea-Dweller Deep-Sea, which took the concept of a pro tool diver even further, with its downright silly 3,900 meter depth rating. But along with it came an oversized 44mm case, and then in 2014, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-with-the-new-rolex-deepsea-d-blue-dial-edition-live-photos/" target=\"_blank\">the gradient blue to black dial of the \"D-Blue\" edition</a>. </p>\n\n<p>It was the first time in recent years that Rolex creating a special dial for one of its existing sports watches, and it did not sit well with everyone. Still, the D-Blue was one of the hottest watches in the world when it was announced, and the traditional black dial 44mm, titanium caseback Sea-Dweller Deep-Sea is very much a Rolex – it's just that many yearned for a serious diver in a traditional 40mm size. </p>\n\n<p>At Baselworld 2014, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-seadweller-4000-reference-116600/" target=\"_blank\">that's what we got with the Sea-Dweller 4000</a>. Reference 116600 was 40mm in diameter, featured a cyclops-less crystal and ceramic bezel, and was rated to 4000 feet, or 1,220 meters. This may not have been a super exciting reference, but it filled a void that had been vacant for half a decade and all was well with the world of Rolex divers. And then came Baselworld 2017.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A Week On The Wrist With The Rolex Sea-Dweller Reference 126600"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["01f50291-726b-4dfb-b121-f14c3125b570"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Rolex at Baselworld 2017 was a little anti-climactic for some, at least relative to 2016. There wasn't an A-list mega introduction like there was last year with the Daytona. Instead there was an update to the least well-known and certainly least understood tool watch made by Rolex. </p>\n\n<p>The new Sea-Dweller came as a surprise in some ways but not others. Of course, 2017 marks the 50th anniversary of the introduction of the first Sea-Dweller 1665. But also it's important to note that we got a whole new Sea-Dweller in 2014 – that's a heck of a short run for a Rolex reference when you remember that the first Sea-Dweller was made from 1967 all the way up until the 1980s. The 5513 ran from the early '60s through the late '80s. </p>\n\n<p>This is Rolex, dammit, and things shouldn't change too quickly – but they did. Though the 116600 Sea-Dweller 4000 was a great watch, with its cyclops-less crystal, 40mm case, and ceramic bezel, Rolex replaced it just three years after it was introduced. </p>\n\n<p>The new 126600 is very much a Sea-Dweller though, don't be confused about that. It has a helium escape valve just as it should and it's water resistant to 1,300 feet deeper than the Burj Khalifa, the world's tallest building, is high. The thing is incredible, undoubtedly. However we gained three millimeters in diameter from 2014 to 2017, and that means it's no longer the same case size as the original. Further we have a cyclops window on the crystal, which if you're a Sea-Dweller guy, could be seen as something of a tragedy. Let's go through the reference 126600 in detail, now that I've had a chance to spend a week wearing it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Case"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["ea65ec9f-a4c7-4b35-a751-b8718871a754"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Forty three millimeters isn't huge. But it's not small either. It's a full 3mm larger in diameter than the previous generation Sea-Dweller, and well, all Sea-Dwellers that came before it. It remains 15mm thick (as measured by myself; case thickness is not a number Rolex shares), and while my first reaction to this upsizing of a historical tool watch is, \"gah, Rolex, why did you do that!?\" let's consider the following. </p>\n\n<p>The Sea-Dweller started at 40mm and stayed there at its original size for approximately <i>half a century</i>. The same can not be said for the Daytona, which went from 37mm to 40mm in the late 1980s, the Explorer II, which went from 40mm to 42mm in 2011, and the Explorer I, which upsized to 39mm in 2010. Even the Milgaus, when it was brought back to life, appeared in a larger size. </p>\n\n<p>The GMT-Master and Submariner were both born small (37mm) and quickly upsized to 40mm in the 1960s where they remain, more or less today. But if we have a Submariner at 40mm, doesn't it make sense that the more rugged and deeper rated Sea-Dweller is a little bigger? As much as it might frustrate many of us, it does seem to compute. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["bf35029b-75d6-4b1f-a054-99adc9014b56"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now that's not to say I like it. But one thing I've learned about the watch business is that there is always something for everyone, and I <i>know</i> that thousands of people out there are thrilled that the new SD is 43mm. In fact, in our introducing post from BaselWorld this year, there was a shocking amount of support <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-oyster-perpetual-sea-dweller-43mm-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">within the 187 comments about the larger size</a>. With the new size comes a larger lug width – 20mm to 22mm – though the new dimensions don't make the piece that outlandish on the wrist. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["990eb608-0fdc-42a7-bb62-44517526fd8c","d0b07eb6-057d-45dc-941d-f055b8045519"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Naturally, the build quality and finish of this solid block of 904L stainless steel is truly excellent, and you can see the sharp lines and intense polishing in the picture above. The helium escape valve is flush against the case side, and notice how crisp the brushing is on the ridges of the bezel. Of course, we have a Trip-Lock crown as well.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["3609c6f3-10c1-45dc-93c9-ddb9cce9db8f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now, about the depth rating. The Sea-Dweller is water resistant to 4,000 feet, or 1,220 meters. That is very, very deep. But it is the exact same depth that the previous generation SD was rated to, and that was three millimeters smaller. </p>\n\n<p>Four thousand feet is fantastically deep, but it has been brought up by some that if this new reference is larger and \"new and improved,\" why would the depth rating remain the same from a previous generation? It's a fair question perhaps, especially considering the fact that all Rolex watches go through a proprietary \"Oyster\" test using pressurized machines (borrowed from, you guessed it, COMEX) to ensure the watches are in fact rated to 10% deeper than what is printed on the dial. </p>\n\n<p>But what makes things even more curious is that Rolex actually tests their dive watches to a good 25% beyond what is printed on the dial. This means that Rolex could, in fact, have made the new reference 126600 rated to 5,000 feet without having to change much on the watch at all, and that might have put down some of the complaints about the larger case size – the new reference wouldn't have only been larger, but it would've been likely perceived as a more capable dive tool which is tough to argue with. (Of course all this is kind of abstract anyway; since 2001 only six people have ever scuba dived deeper than 300 meters, but we all know dive watch fans love overkill.) </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7e5872c3-9c34-42ee-b5a1-409d015f3780"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What's interesting here is that the Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller, which clocks in at just one millimeter larger than the new Sea-Dweller, is rated to an astonishing 12,800 feet using the Rolex Ring Lock system. Granted, the watch is not only 1mm larger than the Sea-Dweller, but also considerably thicker (though it uses a neat titanium caseback to save some weight – not found on the Sea-Dweller, new or old) however one would think if a patron was interested in a 43mm super diver, he'd simply take the next step and have the Deepsea in exchange for a little extra heft.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Dial"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d640282f-ec53-4a1c-8737-b2cb08595de9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now, the dial here is something that few can complain about. For the first time since the 1970s, we have a Sea-Dweller with red on it. And it's not two lines of red text as we all imagined it might be, but instead, just a single line saying \"Sea-Dweller.\" As we've said, the earliest known examples of the reference 1665 Sea-Dweller featured only a single line of text in red on the dial; very few outside the deep dark world of vintage Rolex collecting know this. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"inline","quote":"<p>Every now and then we'll get a signal from the Crown that says, \"Yes, guys, we know you're out there and we ARE paying attention.\" This single line of red text is one of those signals.</p>","source":""},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The \"Double-Red\" is a well-discussed and often mentioned vintage watch, the Single Red is not. It has been said there are as few as six known single red Sea-Dwellers, though a few more have been discovered <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/true-aquanaut-prototype-rolex-single-red-sea-dweller-recommended-reading/" target=\"_blank\">as recently as March of this year</a>. Now many collectors of old Rolex watches like to complain that the company that they love so much doesn't care about them – and in fact Rolex didn't become Rolex by selling to vintage collectors, but rather by selling new watches to the average person you meet on the street (all of them). Still, every now and then we'll get a signal from the crown that says \"Yes, guys, we know you're out there and we <i>are</i> paying attention.\" This single line of red text is one of those signals. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["9f6b5d8f-95a4-4635-848a-e895d19d5075"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The other not-so-noticeable difference between the dial of the new 126600 and the outgoing 116600 is that the old black dial had a satin finish and this new one is a little glossy. And with the upsizing of the case comes a slight upsizing of the Chromalight and white gold hour markers, and hands, to keep things in proportion. Again, this being Rolex, their Chromalight technology actually glows up to eight hours, which is twice as long as traditional SuperLuminova. Oh, and it glows blue.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b8b9d01c-ef1e-4a09-a6ac-138d11147c36"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Finally, on the front of the watch, you can see that the date window has a cyclops magnifier over it. This was the single most controversial change to the Sea-Dweller, even more so than the 43mm case, though perhaps some of the criticism is a little over the top. Not that I don't give credence to purists that complain over nuances – I'm usually one of them. But in this case, when asked about adding a cyclops to the crystal of the Sea-Dweller, a gentleman from Rolex simply stated, \"This watch is about functionality. A cyclops makes it easier for divers to see the date above and under water. Simple as that.\" Fair enough, really.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["31b236f3-c502-494b-8762-31d675db936d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>However the other side of the coin is this: how many people really use the Sea-Dweller as it's intended to be used, anyway? And if the little things matter so much to people and the Submariner already has the cyclops date window, why not just leave the Sea-Dweller alone? I see that side too, and if it were up to me, I'd say the Sea-Dweller should feature a no-cyclops crystal because that's how it was designed in the 1960s. That said, the same source told me that Rolex would've liked to use a cyclops on the Sea-Dweller all along but its crystal would not accept it – it was too thick and too domed for the cyclops to work properly. So in some way, the 126600 rights a wrong that has quietly nagged at Rolex since 1967. And of course, the Deepsea at one millimeter larger is still cyclops-less if it really bugs you. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_right"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Still, this response from Rolex is a little bit like Ferrari citing performance for its use of Formula 1-style transmissions over a three-pedal manual – yes, it's faster, but there a significant percentage of the sports car buying public that thinks we reached \"fast enough\" years ago and would trade .03 off their car's 0-60mph time if they could enjoy the feel of rowing their own gears. </p>\n\n<p>If Rolex really wanted to make the most accurate watch in the same way Ferrari wants to make the most high performing car, wouldn't the Sea-Dweller be quartz? Here in lies the great irony of Swiss watchmaking – they want to push performance and efficiency as far as possible, but not so far that they begin to play in a field where they are no longer the experts – basically until they begin sacrifice of any of their own traditions. If Ferrari, for example, was based in Geneva instead of Maranello, perhaps we'd see the new 812 Superfast with a six speed transmission and carburetors because \"that's how a <i>real</i> car should be made.\" </p>\n\n<p>But that's another story for another day. The new Sea-Dweller has a cyclops window, like it or not.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Bracelet"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["d6193239-dd49-4142-bade-f0912296cfe5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Ah, the bracelet, the one piece of any Rolex watch that is practically impervious to critique from anyone. What's there to say, really? The thing is a modern marvel. Rolex has long been at the forefront of bracelet engineering and indeed, they have a full team of dedicated engineers, scientists and craftsman in Geneva that ensure what they produce is the bar by which all other bracelets are measured. And yes, if you didn't know this already, Gay Freres, the maker of those incredible vintage bracelets you see not only on Rolex watches but also many others (including vintage Pateks) was acquired by Rolex some years back. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>Because this is HODINKEE, you can be sure that if you want to know more about the origins and variations of the Rolex Oyster bracelet, we have a story on it. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-oyster-bracelet-historical-perspectives/" target=\"_blank\">Enter at your own risk</a>.</p>","title":"Further Reading... On Bracelets","images":["66fdf06e-44f8-44bf-9b74-ddb115fa627a"],"alignment":"left"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The particulars of this new Sea-Dweller bracelet are this: it's 904L stainless steel (like the case) and made of solid links together with a taper at the buckle. These are flat brushed links, no center polishing (as you'll see on, say, the new Daytona). This bracelet has an \"Oysterlock\" clasp – Rolex's term for a fold-over clasp, and something the Sea-Dweller has had since its inception. As for the bracelet itself, it is all about functionality and comfort, though I will admit to some slight disappointment in the wear of the bracelet after a short period of time – I'll get to that shortly. First, the let's talk about special features of the bracelet. And this is Rolex after all so you have not one but two clever little tricks to make sure this bracelet works in any circumstance. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["95cbc92b-2d16-4466-a7cb-0c9c1487088f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The first is a system called Rolex Glidelock. This allows the wearer to adjust the bracelet from the clasp, at 2mm intervals, all the way up to 20mm. The second system, which is particular to Rolex dive watches, is called a Fliplock link, and this quickly extends the whole length of the bracelet by 27mm! Don't quite understand how this works? Fear not, we've created a gif for you.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b17857ad-3625-4d75-9ed5-45232e5cfb03"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Both of these systems operate just as you see above – without the use of a single tool. The Fliplock extension link is perhaps a little unsightly with its large, flat surface, but if you are trying to put this watch on over a dive suit at all, you likely don't care at all. This link attaches to the very last Oyster link before the bracelet hits the clasp. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9486e731-868f-4264-a638-0f15289e9eaf","78bd76d0-2f2f-4191-9c02-984404e82b76"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>These two systems make the Sea-Dweller bracelet tough to argue with from a functionality stand point. And the Oysters are notoriously comfortable to wear around daily. But something I've noticed on both my modern Rolex watches (Daytona and GMT-Master) and now this Sea-Dweller, is that the Oysterlock clasp can feel a little tinny at times, and when open, can rub against the bracelet links.</p>\n\n<p>This Sea-Dweller is a press unit, but it hasn't seen much action at all. The brushing work on the clasp itself is incredible. Look at it just looking cool and crisp and awesome on my wrist.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["415bfdf2-d10e-4397-afec-7e9f10bac82e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But, when you turn the watch a little further to see the link just above the folding clasp, you notice that there are some scuffs that are, well, just a little surprising. Now this isn't anything really offensive, and metal-on-metal wear is practically unavoidable, but still, seeing these marks on a brand new Oyster bracelet with little daily wear was not something I anticipated. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["7dc0419f-082b-41e9-b131-acc7e228d8c9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A few scuffs aside, the Rolex Oyster bracelet is still the best damn bracelet you can buy – there are other \"finer\" bracelets out there, no doubt, but few can match the comfort and quality seen here. When you add in these tool-less adjustments, you have something even better than before. Further proof that Rolex really doesn't leave good enough alone.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["5ce7361e-a2ba-497b-b4a2-77abe6b21c17"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now this is the least mentioned but arguably most important change to the Rolex Sea-Dweller for 2017. The caliber 3235 is Rolex's latest and greatest movement, featuring 14 new patents not seen on the 3135 used in the 2014 model year Sea-Dweller. The updates are noticeable and significant – that is, of course, if you actually care about watchmaking. Admittedly, most buyers of the Sea-Dweller do not, but I'm going to cover the updates anyway. The 3235 is based on an existing caliber – 3255, which was introduced in 2015 in the Rolex Day-Date 40. (The Day-Date is the flagship model for Rolex and it gets the new hotness first, almost without fail.) </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["afaa6ba4-225a-4f0c-a600-42823a9227c4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This new caliber has lots to offer – at the center of the advancements is the Chronergy escapement, a stream-lined version of the traditional Swiss lever escapement. The escape wheel is skeletonized to reduce inertia, and Rolex claims it is far more efficient this way. We also have components made of a nickel-phosphorus alloy, which make the movement significantly more resistant to magnetism than a traditional caliber, and of course, we have the in-house Rolex Parachrom balance spring (also amagnetic). The result is a power reserve of 70 hours (up from 40) and a movement that is rated to not only COSC standards but also to \"Superlative Chronometer\" standards of -2/+2 seconds per day, or roughly twice as precise as COSC. (The COSC also tests only movements whereas the Superlative Chronometer rating is for the entire watch). The Sea-Dweller is the very first sports watch to receive a caliber with these updates, and because this is Rolex, there is absolutely zero way you'd know it by looking at the watch because it's all hidden behind a hermetically sealed caseback. Lovely, isn't it?</p>\n\n<p>Again, most Sea-Dweller buyers likely care little for anti-magnetism, improved escapement geometry, and nickel-phosphorus alloys, but if you're buying a Rolex, you do care about efficiency and toughness, and the caliber 3235 has that in spades. Then again, so does the Day-Date 40mm, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-yellow-gold-rolex-day-date-40mm-reference-228238-83418/" target=\"_blank\">which you can read about here thanks to my colleague Jack Forster</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e6abaa02-dd46-46a2-9ea9-8a06de05ea09"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Other watches that could be seen as competition for the new Sea-Dweller fall into two categories for two very different types of users: the first is watches for those men and women who simply want a big, cool, sporty dive watch from a major brand. The second is for someone who actually will use the Sea-Dweller as it's intended, under water (and in a decompression chamber) for great lengths of time.</p>\n\n<p>In the first category, there are dozens of options from major brands. Think Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Omega Seamaster 300, maybe something from JLC or AP, even. The list goes on and on. These are all great watches, though I would say few have the permanence of the Sea-Dweller. Then again, I would venture to say that is the very appeal of all Rolex watches – you just know that in 30 years, your Rolex will be just as cool as it was the day you bought it. With the others, things come and go, but with Rolex, you're buying into a legacy. And sure, that red line of text might not last forever – same with the cyclops window or the 43mm case size – but you know the Sea-Dweller will always be around, and that's worth something to the type of person who is sentimental enough to believe that spending thousands of dollars on a mechanical watch is a good idea in the first place. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_left"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The other (far, far smaller) set of possible users, are people who are actual professional saturation divers and want a technical dive watch as a backup. For this crowd the competition comes from the likes of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/iwc-aquatimer-2000-meters-what-would-happen/" target=\"_blank\">the IWC Aquatimer 2000</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/just-because-a-hands-on-look-at-the-omega-seamaster-professional-ploprof-1200-live-pics/" target=\"_blank\">the Omega PloProf</a> – both great watches from major brands rated to the same depth or even deeper than the Sea-Dweller. Again, neither feel like they have the permanence of the Sea-Dweller, but they might be a little more funky and retro, and bright colors and rubber straps abound. A case could be made for <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.doxawatches.com/DOXA-SUB-collection.html/" target=\"_blank\">any number of Doxas</a>, as well, which have their own underwater history, and in some cases again are rated to even deeper than the Sea-Dweller. But, as <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hodinkee-exclusive-and-in-depth-bob-barths-historic-sealab-r/" target=\"_blank\">Captain Barth told Jason Heaton in 2012</a>, \"Most divers prefer to wear Rolex because they seem(ed) to be a little sturdier than anything else.\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And that's just it. The most severe competition for the new Rolex Sea-Dweller is from Rolex. It's the outgoing 40mm reference 116600 and the one millimeter larger, but even deeper rated, Deepsea. It's the Submariner! Rolex has such a strong offering of dive watches it's hard to think that if someone were slightly turned off by a feature or two of the Sea-Dweller, that they wouldn't just turn to another Rolex diver with slightly different specs. I've even heard that there is a run on the outgoing 116600 because people think that will be a collectible – the last 40mm, cyclops-less Sea-Dweller. It's possible, but I also know that the current Sea-Dweller 126600 is also a very hot watch at the moment, which is saying a lot for a professional tool watch with relatively limited commercial appeal. Here's a quick guide on how the new Sea-Dweller stacks up against its brethren.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d7248f56-78a0-484c-b64d-5fcbcf8c854e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Personal Thoughts On The New Sea-Dweller"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["7c4ba030-afa3-4572-9ab4-91f05eee3d13"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When HODINKEE Managing Editor Stephen Pulvirent told me we'd be getting the new Sea-Dweller in for review and asked me if I wanted to give it a shot, I was a little on the fence about the whole thing. Obviously I have a thing for old Rolexes, but the Sea-Dweller has never resonated with me. In fact, I've owned one of every other well-known Rolex at point or another (except the Milgauss) but never a Sea-Dweller. I've had my Subs, and I still have my first Sub (matte dial 5512 wassup!) which for me can't be improved upon. And yet that is what the Sea-Dweller sought to do from the very beginning. My first thought was: I'm not a diver, so why deal with the extra metal on the wrist? </p>\n\n<p>How do I feel after writing this admittedly too long story on the new Sea-Dweller? Well, exactly the same. This is not a watch for me. And I say that as someone who has grown to love modern Rolex as much as vintage – and in fact the next watch I buy might in fact be another modern Rolex (unless I finally get that #SpeedyTuesday call I've been waiting for). But it won't be the Sea-Dweller. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["21a8989f-54c4-4bf4-97f5-4ee65c82a67a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now more than ever I know that the Sea-Dweller is just too big for me. 43mm isn't the issue, and in fact I happen to think that much as the Datograph got better when it upsized to the Up/Down, because the thickness was balanced out by the increased diameter, this watch might even work better as a 43mm than it did as a 40mm watch. It doesn't feel so hockey-puck-ish any more. </p>\n\n<p>In fact, I grew to be okay with the watch on my little girly-man wrist, which more often than not is adorned with lightweight 38mm cases and hollow-link bracelets. But here's where I differ from the Rolex advertisement above from 1964. It reads: \"Professor Picard clamped the Submariner to the outside of his Bathyscaph and took it seven miles down to the ocean floor... what is it doing at the conference table?\" To me, this watch doesn't belong at the conference table. It belongs on the wrists of people like Professor Picard, or Scott Carpenter, or Bob Barth. Or hell, maybe<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/run-silent-run-deep-diving-with-the-sinn-u1-professional/" target=\"_blank\"> our own Jason Heaton</a> (AKA the only dive watch reviewer who actually dives). But not on me – it's overkill on me. A Submariner with a jacket and tie is one thing – the damn watch is part of our cultural DNA at this point – but the Sea-Dweller is <i>actually a tool. </i>It's something built to serve a very distinct purpose during a particular part of our history that was purpose<i>ful. </i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9df53a1a-288f-4f5a-8484-0752bf71a3d8","8c789c88-99d1-4c52-89a3-2f6c666262ae"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I have no issues with others wearing Sea-Dwellers daily (obviously) and I can tell you that should I ever be tapped to participate in SeaLab IX, it'll be the first thing I buy. But until then, the Sea-Dweller will remain in my eyes just how I described it in the very beginning of this story: intellectually one of Rolex's more important products, though commercially one of its least. It's a true tool watch catering to true dive professionals – which I am not.</p>\n\n<p>The new Rolex 126600 is in stores now and you can read more about it <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rolex.com/watches/sea-dweller/m126600-0001.html/" target=\"_blank\">right here</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"c4b010fa-c2d4-4efb-9e86-76ba1f2b075a","container_id":4573,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1497381244011-f75hu3apsmr-cf68457230bef6e9314f4bd82c05e445/new_hero_copy.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-06-13T15:10:29.276-04:00","updated_at":"2017-06-13T15:14:06.556-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1497381244011-f75hu3apsmr-cf68457230bef6e9314f4bd82c05e445/new_hero_copy.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-sea-dweller-reference-126600","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Rolex Sea-Dweller Reference 126600","tags":[]},{"id":4574,"slug":"the-armin-strom-mirrored-force-resonance-water","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance 'Water'","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-06-15T09:39:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-06-14T10:42:12.874-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:33.611-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>Resonance watches promise better accuracy, but does this one deliver where it counts?</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":27424,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance watches were first introduced in late 2016 and they generated a lot of interest among technically minded watch enthusiasts, as well as a certain amount of healthy skepticism. Resonance watches are very rare and tend to require a considerable amount of careful adjustment in order to get them to work – and to get them to deliver on their promise of better accuracy. However the system Armin Strom used to create a resonance effect seemed quite ingenious and as well, offered some pretty extraordinary visuals. We took a <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-armin-strom-mirrored-force-resonance-fire-a-resonance-watch-with-a-unique-coupling-system/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On look at one of the gold models</a> in December of 2016, and were definitely impressed with what we saw, but we were not at that time able to have the watch in the office and on the wrist long enough to evaluate whether the resonance mechanism worked as Armin Strom intended it to work.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2a5236e6-a71b-48d8-b195-a72a39e5b858"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The basic idea behind resonance watches and clocks is that two oscillators that are in resonance with each other should have better accuracy or – to be more technically correct – a more stable rate. Resonance occurs when two oscillators, be they pendulums or balance wheels or what have you, begin to beat together, thanks to being mechanically coupled in some way. Different makers have used different methods for connecting the oscillators mechanically. Well-known examples of this sort of watch include the resonance timepieces made by Breguet during his lifetime (he conducted numerous experiments on the phenomenon) and in the modern era, such timepieces as the F. P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance and Beat Haldimann's H2 Resonance Flying Tourbillon. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Resonance watches are rare for a reason; they are difficult to make and adjust and there is no shortcut to getting one to work properly. F. P. Journe's resonance watches have balances that are mechanically coupled through the movement plate – when the balance reaches the limit of its vibration and is returned the other direction by the balance spring, this induces a very minute corresponding vibration in the balance cock and then in the plate to which it's screwed. If everything is just right this vibration will influence the second balance and the two will begin to oscillate together. (This is the method employed by Breguet in his resonance pocket watches as well. Breguet himself seems to have had a hard time believing the effect was real; in an undated note on his experiments with resonance watches he wrote, \"This appears to be absurd, but experiment proves it a thousand times over.\")</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bbb6ce30-a426-4ebd-995e-978a318a8e87"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Mirrored Force Resonance watches take a different approach which is closer to that used by Beat Haldimann in his H2 resonance tourbillon, although the two watches differ dramatically not only aesthetically, but in key technical details as well. In the Armin Strom resonance watches, the two balance springs are mechanically coupled via an elaborate and complex spring with a sharp double-S curve. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b1bc477a-2831-4df0-b287-d381b9fb5c3f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The balance spring studs (the outer pinning point of a balance spring) are connected to the opposite ends of the resonance spring and as the balances oscillate, the resonance spring converts the balance spring \"breathing\" into a connecting lateral thrusting motion. This should induce resonance in the two balances and should also produce a more stable rate than either balance alone can provide.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Aesthetics Of The Mirrored Force Resonance 'Water'"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Armin Strom watches fall in general into four families that correspond to the classical four elements of Earth, Air, Water, and Fire and are set apart by differences in case metals as well as overall design (Water corresponds to plain stainless steel, for instance; Fire to rose gold). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["add6620f-790c-4d92-98bc-7878948ec456"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3815b436-a5a1-4ba7-a8a4-553efa656d56"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The design of the watch is quite straightforward and is intended to showcase the technical properties of the movement and on this front, I think the steel \"Water\" model is especially successful; it has a purposefulness that is absent in the gold model we saw in 2016. The latter has other appealing points but the steel model gives a feeling of instrumentality very appropriate to the watch. The hours and minutes are shown in a sub-dial to the right, at 3:00 and at about 7 and 11 on the dial, you have subdials for reading off the seconds; these are in turn linked to two balances at 8 and 10. The pusher located at about 2:00 is for setting both seconds hands to zero simultaneously. Pressing on it causes two reset hammers to fall on two separate heart pieces – one underneath each three-armed seconds hand. (One of the three arms is white, and it's from that arm you read the seconds off.) This is in its operating principles exactly identical to the reset mechanism used in chronographs.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b1c6db30-ceb1-4623-be62-e3587c54a04f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>How exciting you find the open dial design of the Mirrored Force Resonance depends a lot on how interested you are in watching the resonance mechanism in action. If you like this sort of thing it's extremely interesting to observe the action of the resonance spring and see the two balances beating together. There's a lot more to see than there is on the dial side of a Journe resonance watch but the unique nature of the resonance mechanism ensures there is a good reason to open up the dial (so often open dial watches don't offer much to look at and make you wonder why anyone thought it was worth opening the dial up at all).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["df6126c8-4030-4c21-a1da-6cc153a17d9f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["1f2cc593-1a99-40a3-b627-48325756fc16"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's a big presence on the wrist at 43.40mm x 13.00mm though obviously, if you're in the market for one of these you are looking for a statement piece anyway. That said the dimensions are not excessive for the nature of the watch and for its architecture; there are basically two complete going trains inside the case and given that it's two watches in one, it's reasonably compact. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["83d7dc20-a4e2-4d82-aa52-589f44805b79"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Most of the more overt visual attraction is on the dial side, obviously, but the movement side (the \"top plate\" side to a watchmaker, for whom the back of the movement is the top) while overall more restrained is still very well done, with cleanly executed circular Geneva strips and snailing. Finish on functional surfaces is excellent even under magnification. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["8ab798d0-8523-48e0-b568-2c6a0b4f0d84"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ad6292d4-a7c7-44e1-9e99-42e9f66ddf38"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Daily Use And Performance"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Wearing a watch this big on a daily basis is something I generally don't do but it's always nice to break out of a rut and after a day or so of getting acclimatized to a bigger case, the size became a non-issue – far more relevant than case size per se is how well a watch wears in terms of comfort and aside from my shirt cuff snagging on it from time to time there were no issues in that respect with the Mirrored Force Resonance at all. My routine during the week and a half or so that I wore it was always the same: wind the watch first thing in the morning, wear it throughout the day (usually a 2 mile walk to and from home to the office and back, plus on the wrist at my desk) and at night it was on the dresser dial up. This is not a routine that will upset the rate of any watch, in general (like humans, watches are creatures of habit and all other things being equal will be steadier with a good routine) but you would still expect, over this period of time, for any watch to wander a bit on its daily rate.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["70074097-9c5f-4b14-ba0c-a4636c8eb11f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>On the first day I wore the watch, I wound it and synchronized the two seconds hands with the re-set pusher. Every day at about the same time (11AM) I checked to see if the hands were still synchronized, and I also checked the rate of the watch against an Internet atomic time standard (NIST). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I was expecting the balances to become desynchronized at some point, and in fact the folks at Armin Strom had mentioned to me when I first saw the watch back in 2016 that getting the geometry of the spring just right was proving to be challenging – in other words it was at that point a work in progress. However based on the test period results they seem to have gotten the watch perfectly dialed in, to make a weak pun. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In daily wear, the balances never became desynchronized – not by so much as a second; after eight days they were still perfectly in syc with each other and while it's always possible they drifted out of resonance and then back in at some point, I never observed it to happen. The resonance mechanism appears to be extremely robust and worked exactly as intended. Moreover and just as remarkably, the watch kept an extremely steady rate: it lost exactly 6.5 seconds per day, without fail, every day. </p>\n\n<p>This is marine chronometer level performance – remember, a precision timekeeper is not necessarily one that keeps perfect time relative to a time standard, but rather one whose rate remains stable and in this respect the Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance, during the test period, exceeded the COSC standard of maximum 5 seconds' daily rate variation considerably. Making it accurate in the sense of keeping time to a time standard would be a matter of regulation but in terms of rate stability it performed to expectation and beyond, and it would appear that better rate stability is indeed the payoff of the Mirrored Force Resonance mechanism. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["56b18c9b-4d15-4a66-9502-123eaadd9929"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Mirrored Force Resonance in steel made a very positive impression and not just for its praiseworthy technical performance, though that was essential as well. The most successful watches are those in which there's a seamless integration of mechanics and aesthetics; a watch with great design but a poor movement will become very uninteresting over time, and conversely one with a great movement but lackluster aesthetics will fail as well. As with all things it's best to try and win both hearts and minds. This resonance watch from Armin Strom, if you are susceptible to the value proposition it makes, may just do both.</p>\n\n<p><i>The Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance Water: case, stainless steel with sapphire front and back, 43.40mm x 13.00mm and 50m water resistant. Movement, resonance caliber ARF15, 16 1/2 lignes, 25,500 vph, running in 43 jewels; 48 hour power reserve. Price, $54,100. See all the collections </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.arminstrom.com/en//" target=\"_blank\"><i>at Arminstrom.com.</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"c893f83d-96b0-4537-9dc8-8b9a0e114e62","container_id":4574,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1497449304355-0dd27raqo2tv-e6aaa74de4d7e86dca55822da68fe5e0/hero.jpg","width":5184,"height":2916,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2017-06-14T10:42:13.017-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:13:37.390-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1497449304355-0dd27raqo2tv-e6aaa74de4d7e86dca55822da68fe5e0/hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-armin-strom-mirrored-force-resonance-water","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance 'Water'","tags":[]},{"id":4491,"slug":"the-urban-jurgensen-reference-big-8-in-stainless-steel","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Urban Jürgensen Reference Big 8 In Stainless Steel","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-06-12T09:28:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-05-11T14:51:07.473-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:33.793-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>The Urban Jürgensen Reference Big 8 is a stunning example of old-school luxury watchmaking.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":43080,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>I can't remember when it was that I first saw Urban Jürgensen's watches, but I suspect it was sometime in the very early 2000s. It might very well have been on that irreplaceable treasure trove of early classic online watch photography, Steve G's Watch Launchpad, some time around 2002 or 2003; the watch in question being <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://ninanet.net/watches/others07/Mediums/mUJ.html/" target=\"_blank\">a lovely Ref. 8</a>, with a black dial. It might also have been on ThePuristS.com (now PuristsPro) in Dr. Thomas Mao's write-up of his <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.thepurists.com/jpg/perpetual/ujr3.html/" target=\"_blank\">Ref. 3 Perpetual Calendar, from 2001.</a> (It says something about how old the latter story is, at least in Internet years, that Dr. Mao calls the 37mm case of the Ref. 3 \"surprisingly large.\" I have, with some feeling, watched some of my favorite internet watch stories go dark over the last couple of decades and it always makes me happy to run across old friends like these).</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"square_breaker"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Wherever it was, I remember being very, very taken with the designs – actually, with the whole package; the combination of case and lug shapes and proportions, the very fine <i>guilloché </i>work on the dial, and the observatory style hands. It all seemed to add up to something that touched a lot of points in watch history and design but managed to seem fresh and original at the same time. Recently I had a chance to get reacquainted with the company by (finally) getting to meet with them at Baselworld, and having a chance to (finally) get one of their watches on my wrist, which was a distinct pleasure after having admired them from a distance for so many years. Let's dig a little into both the Big 8, and the history of Urban Jürgensen.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9da92ed6-65fe-4433-8469-8798602cab77"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Urban Jürgensen In Copenhagen And Neuchâtel"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Urban Jürgensen has had a rather complicated past – as with many older watch brands, when exactly you consider the company to have begun depends on how you define a company, and often, a family whose name became that of a modern brand, was involved in watchmaking long before a company was formally incorporated. In the case of Urban Jürgensen, the family was involved in watchmaking as early as the mid-1700s, when Jürgen Jürgensen traveled from Copenhagen to Neuchâtel, where he studied with Jaques-Frédèric Houriet (nowadays the latter is best known for having invented the spherical balance spring). Urban Jürgensen, his son, followed his father to Neuchâtel, and through Houriet, was introduced to Breguet and John Arnold. Urban Jürgensen ended up marrying Houriet's daughter Sophie and became a prolific maker of clocks and scientific instruments as well, before passing away at the age of 53, in 1830.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["f8468edb-d122-4648-8c14-6a611930a839"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Urban Jürgensen's work was really exceptional – certainly, it reflects credit on his teachers, but also on his ability to absorb their experience and make it his own. The above watch is from 1812 and was auctioned last year at Antiquorum in Geneva <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/mid-auction-report-obscure-urban-jurgensen-pocket-watch-at-antiquorum-geneva-hammers-for-12-times-estimate/" target=\"_blank\">for 12 times its estimate</a>, which is rather astonishing. It's got a pump-action winding system, a chain-and-fusée with Harrison's maintaining power (which keeps power going to the balance even when you are winding the watch; this is essential for a chronometer with a fusée, as otherwise the watch would stop as you wind the chain off the mainspring barrel and back onto the cone) as well as John Arnold's version of the chronometer detent escapement. It also has a cylindrical balance spring.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now of course, a firm whose founder died in 1830 can be expected to have gone through a few things over the course of almost two hundred years – several European and World Wars as well as any number of major and minor financial crises will do that. However, one of the most interesting aspects of the company was that thanks to Jürgen and Urban Jürgensen's travels to Switzerland, the firm had both a Swiss branch, and a branch in Copenhagen, with the Swiss branch doing the bulk of the manufacturing. Eventually, however, the Copenhagen branch and the Swiss branch ceased manufacturing, with the ownership of the Urban Jürgensen name becoming divided between a U.S.-based company, and one in Copenhagen. The brand was revived by Peter Baumberger, who acquired full rights to the company in 1985, and who partnered with the famous English watchmaker, Derek Pratt. The latter passed away in 2009, and Baumberger, in 2010, but not before having introduced a number of exceptional watches, including the Ref. 1 perpetual calendar, as well as being awarded a patent for a unique, wristwatch-capable version of the chronometer detent escapement. Pratt's work for Urban Jürgensen included some extremely high grade pocket watches, such as this tourbillon with <i>remontoire d'égalité </i>and power reserve.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b3887487-601f-4baf-abab-6a3b887db826"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In 2014, Søren Jenry Petersen (a former senior executive at Nokia) acquired Urban Jürgensen, with a group of Danish investors, putting the company – after many decades – back in Danish hands. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Reference Big 8"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Ref. Big 8 is, as you might have guessed from the name, a larger version of the Ref. 8, which comes in a 37mm diameter case. The Big 8 is a 40mm watch, although it doesn't feel or wear big, the \"Big\" notwithstanding. This is probably due to the use of very, very traditional mid-20th century fine watchmaking design cues throughout, including the relatively slim stepped bezel, the recessed crown, the elegantly formed teardrop lugs, and the engine-turned dial. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bd899015-7e78-4a3b-b995-a12b082192e1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The hands on both the Ref. 8, and Ref. Big 8 are very elaborately made – the body for both is heat-blued steel. The centers of both hands are lathe-turned gold, as is the \"eye\" of the hour hand, which is friction fit in place. The tip of the minute hand is gently radiused (another touch which gives the watch an appealingly old-school feel) and in terms of fineness and quality of work, the hands of the Big 8 are a quiet but definite reproach to what you get from many other luxury watch brands, where all too often (in fact, depressingly often) you see hands that can only be described as cheap-looking. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2365715c-8942-40b5-ae38-933c7277fd4c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["a42b25e0-3bf7-461e-a891-5ab70d4ff766"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The case and dial work are similarly elaborate. The teardrop lugs are forged separately from the rest of the case and hand polished before being soldered in place (another nod to mid-century horological methods) and the dial is real <i>guilloché, </i>produced by traditional engine turning. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["191f2f03-3ea2-4e0c-970b-31ed90af5ee9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>All this adds up to a very rich visual effect and one of the great pleasures of wearing the Big 8 was the amount of detail and obvious care that went into making every part, as well as how well all the elements came together. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The hands of the Big 8, and of Urban Jürgensen watches in general, are quite interesting not only for the craft that goes into them, but for the type of hands the company uses. They're often mistaken for Breguet (or <i>pomme</i>) hands (both terms describe the same type of watch hands) but they're not. Breguet hands have an eye at the tip of both the hour and minute hands, which is generally rather smaller than the eye you see on the hour hand in Urban Jürgensen watches. These are sometimes called \"observatory\" (<i>observatoire</i>) style hands – I presume due to their association with chronometers, although I've been unable to find any specific explanation so far for the term. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The combination of an engine turned dial with hands that resemble Breguet style hands is reminiscent of Breguet watches, of course, although I personally have always felt that Urban Jürgensen watches very much have their own character. Breguet's style varied as it developed even during his own lifetime, although certainly <i>pomme </i>hands and an engine turned dial are signature looks; in wristwatches, though, I think the distinctive teardrop lugs, stepped bezel, smooth case flanks, and <i>observatoire-</i>style hands used by Urban Jürgensen add up to a watch with a clear design identity of its own (as well as offering a nice connection to the link in watchmaking history between Urban Jürgensen, and Breguet in the 19th century). Even back in the early 2000s, they never struck me as especially derivative of Breguet wristwatches <i>per se. </i>And, of course, the adoption of at least some of Breguet's stylistic idioms has an honorable history – lord knows it was good enough for Dr. George Daniels, among others.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["995edcab-db0a-4107-9bda-53d549e5cee5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The movement is a modified F. Piguet 1160, which runs at 28,800 vph (there is a 21,600 vph version of the same movement as well). The movement's fairly flat, at 5.20mm x 32mm, with two barrels and a 40 hour power reserve. F. Piguet is now Manufacture Blancpain, as most HODINKEE readers probably know, but its movements were at one time quite widely used among <i>haute horlogerie </i>manufacturers, in keeping with the time-honored Swiss <i>ébauche </i>tradition, and to me the presence of cal. 1160 here has a lot of charm – very much a connection to an aspect of traditional Swiss watchmaking which has acquired more of a negative connotation than it should. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7335475b-c821-4153-a0c9-00131d401f5a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you're of a mind to enjoy a modern watch with a tremendous amount of aesthetic charm derived from what was arguably the golden age of fine watch design, you're probably going to get quite a kick out of wearing the Big 8. On the wrist, thanks to its slim dimensions and (relatively) modest diameter, it's extremely comfortable – it has that property few watches have of really seeming to become a part of your body when you wear it. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["85aecd5c-b653-408c-9328-e4cac7a94f48"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Big 8 is a fine, and very refined, wristwatch and one of the most attractive things about it, in addition to the quiet but definite high quality of every part of the watch, is that this sort of watchmaking has, almost without anyone noticing, become rather rare. To devote care and craft to the external aesthetics, in the context of traditional watch design, while at the same time taking advantage of the availability of a high grade movement, used to be the standard <i>modus operandus </i>for a lot of Swiss fine watchmaking, and the industry-wide rush to establish one's brand (seemingly regardless of cost to both brand and consumer) as a <i>manufacture </i>has not necessarily been an entirely good thing, to say nothing of having resulted in what may very well be unsustainable pricing practices. </p>\n\n<p>The Big 8 in steel is $15,300, which for the quality offered is I think a very attractive price. The pleasure of wearing a luxury watch can certainly derive to some degree from branding but for luxury to sustain its appeal, at some point it has to deliver on the promise that branding makes, and it's no secret that in this era of mass luxury, this happens less and less. The Big 8 is a rarity not only among watches, but among modern luxury products in general – it's something that the more you learn about, the happier you are you have it, and unlike so many luxury products these days, the chances of it becoming a source of regret to its owner as time goes by, are very small indeed.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["dc152e1f-5089-462d-aa4d-e6eeaee8c753"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>The Urban Jürgensen Ref. Big 8 in stainless steel: case, 40 mm x 10.50 mm, with soldered teardrop lugs; water resistance 3 ATM/30 meters. Sapphire crystals front and back. Dial, hand-finished guilloché, solid sterling silver. Observatory style hands in gold and heat-blued stainless steel. Movement, modified F. Piguet caliber 1160, 28,800 vph, with two mainspring barrels and 40 hour power reserve, adjusted to five positions.</i></p>\n\n<p><i>Find out more about Urban Jürgensen and the Ref. Big 8 at </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.urbanjurgensen.com/collections/reference-8-big8/" target=\"_blank\"><i>urbanjurgensen.com.</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"8302b1d6-40a4-4417-aa61-f80254ccf21a","container_id":4491,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1494519072062-jezuuy2dhpn-4e57af8d7ca47d11330dbda6516ca73f/hero.jpg","width":5184,"height":2916,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2017-05-11T14:51:07.486-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:13:59.808-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1494519072062-jezuuy2dhpn-4e57af8d7ca47d11330dbda6516ca73f/hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-urban-jurgensen-reference-big-8-in-stainless-steel","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Urban Jürgensen Reference Big 8 In Stainless Steel","tags":[]},{"id":4503,"slug":"breitling-superocean-heritage-ii-42mm-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Breitling Superocean Héritage II","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-05-17T14:16:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-05-15T16:16:53.507-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:34.024-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>A thoroughly modern take on a thoroughly classic watch.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106669542001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":145783,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>The 1950s were a watershed decade for dive watches, if you'll forgive the pun. Within a few years of each other, three different companies released three of the most enduring classics of the modern dive watch idiom: the Rolex Submariner, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, and the Omega Seamaster 300. All had certain essential features in common – excellent visibility, rotating timing bezels, good water resistance – and each has gone on to become an icon for the company that made it. In 1957, another classic of the era debuted: the Breitling Superocean, which was released in both chronograph and non-chronograph versions.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["46eeb82f-66c0-4b62-a186-b1f2628ee879"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Early Breitling Superocean watches have gone on to become very collectible – the first two references, in good condition, are now high five-figure timepieces (nothing like <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/white-gold-submariner-world-record-christies/" target=\"_blank\">the crazy money being spent on rare Submariners,</a> but still very respectable). This year is the 60th anniversary of the Superocean, and to mark the occasion Breitling has released a new version of the watch which looks back to the originals for its design cues, while at the same time looking very much forward from a technical standpoint – including the movement, which is being supplied to Breitling by Tudor (with modifications).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["7c5115da-0884-4181-884a-4553b7339447"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are two sizes available for the new model – 42mm and 46mm, with a 46mm chronograph available as well – and all three models are available in brown, blue, or black. We had the blue and brown models in the office and the brown model on a strap was the one I wore for a week. The blue version on a steel mesh bracelet is just as handsome as the brown model, and for the same reasons: clarity of design and great depth of color. I can only assume the black model would be just as handsome, although the rich colors of the dials and bezels for the blue and brown models is hard to pass up, if you're going to go for color in a dive watch at all. (Officially, the colors are \"copperhead bronze\" and \"gun blue,\" per Breitling).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2f03b11a-52a0-45c6-93d3-43559079ecce"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The strap on the brown version is rubber-lined leather and it's quite thick, giving every impression of being nearly as durable as the steel mesh bracelet. Ordinarily, I would prefer something a little less heavy, but as the 42mm Héritage Superocean watches are 14.35mm thick, the strap works well and actually harmonizes better with the overall feel of the watch than would a thinner strap (for comparison, the Tudor Black Bay is about 14.8mm thick). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9e5178ee-5e3d-4562-9515-01d30377622f","7170e45a-a8d7-4507-9f74-ee951cf559be"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The buckle has a micro-adjustment feature, which lets you fine-tune the fit, although basic strap length is a little harder to adjust, as it requires cutting the strap to the approximate correct length first. The micro-adjustment mechanism is simple to use: Just push in to unlock it, and you can shift the point of attachment of the strap inside the buckle to suit. (Leaving nothing to chance, Breitling has helpfully labeled the relevant locking mechanism \"push.\") </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["1d6bac33-0fa6-49eb-b142-969a40cd39c1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Fit and finish on this sub-$5,000 watch is very good indeed. The hands and dial markers pick up light beautifully and the Superocean is, as it should be, instantly legible under pretty much any lighting conditions you'd care to throw at it (including total darkness). Aside from legibility, though, it struck me during the time I wore it as a genuinely beautiful watch, with a kind of elegance I've missed in some of Breitling's more recent creations. The shapes of the hands and indexes, as well as the warm richness and saturation of the dial and bezel colors, goes to show you that making an aesthetically nuanced tool watch needn't be an oxymoron (I still can't quite believe I'm describing a Breitling as \"aesthetically nuanced,\" but there you have it). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2aa4e205-d941-4f39-bbcd-8d5265e7bb9d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The bezel feels slightly stiff, dropping into half-minute stops as you rotate it; the upside of a certain degree of resistance, of course, is that you feel when you set the bezel that it's not going anywhere. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["8b08fd15-5239-4e7a-ae11-4b11802e240d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One of the most interesting aspects of the Superocean Héritage is what's under the hood – in this case, the Breitling caliber B20. This is sort of an in-house movement, and sort of not; it's based on the Tudor caliber MT5612, which was first introduced by <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-tudor-pelagos-now-with-in-house-movement/" target=\"_blank\">Tudor in the Pelagos</a>. There are some differences between the MT5612, as used by Tudor, and the B20 – for one thing, the B20 has somewhat more traditional finishing than MT5612, which has <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.tudorwatch.com/magazine/article/movement-5612/" target=\"_blank\">an almost modernist look</a>, with bead-blasted bridges rather than the Geneva stripes used in the Breitling version. The other major difference is that the B20 doesn't have a silicon balance spring, which means less resistance to magnetic fields. However, a lot of the value of the movement is still there. The B20 is, like the caliber MT5612, a tough movement designed for hard use, with a balance bridge (providing somewhat better protection against shock) and a freesprung, adjustable mass balance – and, of course, a 70 hour power reserve.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["11de9e2e-7d9c-4417-8c87-7a002e989e6f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0100e8a4-83e2-428b-91b8-4aaab43ad000","6aba7c82-0f12-4be1-9d6b-f81a3b3f4606"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Because of the closed caseback, you can't see the movement, which is a bit of a shame, but you can definitely tell it's there from the performance of the watch. Certainly, this chronometer-certified caliber came through in daily use – I'd expect the watch to drift a little on its rate over time but at least during the one week period I wore it, it gained exactly one second per day, which is stellar performance by any standard. Wider use by Breitling of this movement (and I can only assume they'll deploy it elsewhere in the next year or two) would make a significant change in how potential buyers evaluate the value proposition of Breitling watches.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["96607516-fac9-4949-861f-849e67de80bf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This version of the Breitling Superocean Héritage will run you $4,500 (the blue dial version on the mesh bracelet isn't much more expensive, at $4,700). After a week with the brown dial version I really felt like there's a lot on offer from Breitling with this one. The aesthetics are really compelling (it's one of the more handsome new dive watches out this year, for sure). And with a ceramic bezel, a very nicely made strap with a well-engineered bracelet, and that caliber B20 inside – which gave nothing short of excellent performance during the week I had it, and which has some very nice technical bells and whistles going for it – Breitling has here a very serious new contender in the $5,000 and under dive watch category. Definitely worth a serious look, and a great deal of what you get in more expensive dive watches, for several thousand less.</p>\n<p>For more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.breitling.com/en//" target=\"_blank\">visit Breitling online</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"1eef1970-f4ad-4892-be9d-e9b060ba1dc0","container_id":4503,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1494960410592-2tv49ai67fy-66a5db4010ec6847e281854a41049693/hero_2.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-05-15T16:16:54.014-04:00","updated_at":"2017-05-16T14:46:59.992-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1494960410592-2tv49ai67fy-66a5db4010ec6847e281854a41049693/hero_2.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/breitling-superocean-heritage-ii-42mm-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Breitling Superocean Héritage II","tags":[]},{"id":4441,"slug":"iwc-da-vinci-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-steel-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph In Steel","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-04-26T14:01:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-04-23T12:07:22.023-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:34.300-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>For IWC, 2017 is the Year of Da Vinci, and that includes a refresh of the most iconic model, the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph designed by the legendary Kurt Klaus.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106668762001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":55099,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":"170e5150-6b65-4d6b-a29a-2b9882a18504","display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>In keeping with its usual practice of devoting each year to refreshing a particular product line, IWC brought out a totally redesigned Da Vinci family at this year's SIHH. Of all the IWC families, Da Vinci may be the hardest sell – unlike the brand's technical and aviation themed watches, Da Vinci is, and historically has always been (with one exception), a way of showing off IWC as a complications specialist. Stylistically, the Da Vinci family has much more to do with wristwatch design idioms that considerably pre-date the pioneering steel tool watches that became so popular after the end of World War II, and they also stand very much apart stylistically from every other IWC family.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Those differences are not so much polarizing as they simply are more specific, in terms of to whom they are going to appeal. However, I think the Da Vinci family comes by its individuality honestly. For one thing, the designs have importance and value in terms of what they represent about design history at IWC as a whole. For another, they have a strong connection to IWC's decades-long, avowed philosophy of exploring what it means to make \"a pocket watch for the wrist.\"</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Origins Of The IWC Da Vinci Family, And Complicated Watchmaking At IWC"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ba8dc287-0edb-4404-a005-76abd7f5368c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The very first Da Vinci watch from IWC was from 1969-70 and that model doesn't have a whole lot to do with what the Da Vinci line has become. The original Da Vinci was a quartz watch, made to show off the then-revolutionary Beta 21 quartz movement, and the lozenge-shaped case certainly made it stand out from the crowd. The quartz Da Vinci evolved, as quartz technology did, becoming thinner and more elegant – the one you see above is a Da Vinci SL quartz wristwatch from 1977 – but it wasn't a platform for high complications until some years later.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_left"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Jump forward to 1985, and Da Vinci has become a whole 'nother animal. Although the name Da Vinci was used for the first time for an IWC watch right at the beginning of the Quartz Crisis, the models that used the name next in the 1980s were so different as to basically constitute a re-boot of the entire Da Vinci line. The rather mod, very 1970s lozenge shaped case is gone and instead we have something that stylistically could easily have been made in the period, say, 1925-1935 and which, in terms of mechanics and complexity, is connected to not just the tradition of high complication wristwatches, but complicated pocket watches as well.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["4e154a3a-b960-43ae-a577-64f452e1bf91"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's difficult now to appreciate just how revolutionary the 1985 Da Vinci was. This was a perpetual calendar chronograph, with a module designed by IWC's Kurt Klaus, built on a Valjoux 7750 chronograph base. However, the Valjoux movement was just a starting point. The perpetual calendar mechanism was the first ever made in which all the calendar indications, including the moonphase, were coordinated via the crown, so that in order to set the watch you only had to pull out the crown and advance the day indication – the day, month, leap year, and year indications, along with the moon, would all advance together. The only gotcha was that you couldn't set the calendar backwards, but it was still an unprecedented technical achievement, and in the mid-1980s, when complicated watchmaking was probably at its lowest ebb in the entire 20th century, it was a very powerful statement from IWC not only about its own capacities as a complications specialist – which, historically, had not been its specialization – but also a statement of faith and belief in the future of mechanical horology as a whole.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Stylistically? The barrel lugs, stepped bezel, mushroom shaped pushers, and general vibe were all designed in a way that vehemently recalls what, even in 1985, was already an extremely conservative and anachronistic style of watchmaking. However, this very much fit with the intentions of the watch and the renewed Da Vinci family – the conservative cosmetics were, like the mechanics, an avowal of faith in both the past and future of mechanical horology.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["81b5d095-8d3d-42de-8829-11c38a529c21"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I wasn't yet interested in watches when the first run of mechanical Da Vincis came out in 1985, but ten years later, I'd gotten bitten by the bug and by the time I started reading about IWC, the Da Vinci Perpetual Chronograph and Kurt Klaus had become, respectively, legendary and celebrated in the watch enthusiast community. Complicated watchmaking at IWC in the late 20th and early 21st centuries had been legitimized by Klaus, and by the Da Vinci Perpetual Chrono, almost single handedly. I said earlier that complicated watchmaking had never been a particular specialty of IWC, but it is true that IWC had produced very complicated watches in the past – however, these were rare one-offs (though it's worth mentioning that there were both perpetual calendar and minute repeating complications in IWC pocket watches in the late 19th century.) </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"<p>Although the IWC Da Vinci of 1985 was a major milestone, it wasn't the first complicated mechanical watch from IWC. In 1982, the firm released a watch never shown in any catalog: the reference 3710 full calendar, chronograph, and moonphase. Read IWC historian David Seyffer's article <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.iwc.com/en/the-start-of-a-complicated-era//" target=\"_blank\">right here, at IWC.com.</a></p>","title":"The Secret History: A Complicated IWC Wristwatch From 1982","images":["230515a8-0879-477b-b705-696b19f5701c"],"alignment":"right"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The watch that really brought home the point that IWC was now a contender amongst complications specialists, was the first IWC Grande Complication wristwatch, reference 3770. If you can find one at auction it's one of the most interesting ways to get into a precious metal cased minute repeater, chronograph, and perpetual calendar with four-digit year indication that I can think of. The Grande Complication came out in 1990, and three years later, IWC debuted the watch you see above, known as \"Il Destriero Scafusia\" (roughly, \"The Warhorse Of Schaffhausen\") which added a flying tourbillon and offered a <i>rattrapante </i>chronograph. Il Destriero Scafusia was also based on a Valjoux caliber – the hand-wound 7760, but one so heavily modified its own mother wouldn't have recognized it. </p>\n<p>The Grande Comps and Il Destriero Scafusia weren't part of the Da Vinci line <i>per se, </i>but they were very much in the same spirit: statement pieces, both for IWC and for anyone wearing them. At the time, they weren't considered an affordable way to get into grande complication wristwatches (is there such a thing?) but rather, an alternative to the very small group of other possible candidates for making one – which, it bears emphasizing, included at the time just a handful of makers, including Jaeger-LeCoultre, Audemars Piguet, and Patek. They were technically distinctive in a way that appealed strongly to connoisseurs and as much as anything else, really put IWC on the map in a way it had never been before.</p>\n<p>Stylistically, they were also allied to the Da Vinci family – extremely traditional, rather more Baroque than not; which gave both them and the Da Vincis an extremely aristocratic air, and which was a major departure from the very restrained, even utilitarian flavor of virtually all other IWC watches from the second half of the 20th century.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The New Da Vinci Perpetual Chronograph (And Its New Siblings Too)"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["2cafb38c-11ac-4b49-870c-20d2c153358b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The reason for all the palaver about the roots of Da Vinci in IWC's aspirations to become a complications manufacture in the 1980s and '90s is because it has a lot to do (this is A Week On The Wrist, after all) with how I felt about the new Da Vinci Perpetual Chronographs when I first saw them earlier this year. I have to be honest, I understand why IWC made some modifications to the original design but I would have been perfectly happy to see those barrel lugs and mushroom pushers again – the Baroque is not an idiom that sells a ton of watches nowadays but I have an irresistible nostalgia for the original Da Vincis, and to see a return to the round case, onion-ish crown, stepped bezel, and overall aristocratic flavor sat very well with me; I thought it was a great way to connect the dots to IWC's past as a complications maker and to the history of the Da Vinci line.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9b498b4d-d8c1-4ac3-b87c-49bd589f0e7c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The other thing I was very happy to see was the four-digit year indication – IWC had gotten out of the habit of using it in recent years and it's great to see it front and center again. It was a signature element of the original Da Vinci Perpetual Chronograph back in 1985, and a visual signature for the inventiveness of Kurt Klaus as well. Getting back in a round, slightly Baroque, rather formal Da Vinci case is pretty exciting, especially for those of us who've been following the evolution of complicated watchmaking at IWC for a couple of decades.</p>\n<p>It's a fairly large watch – 43mm x 15.5mm, which is a hair larger than the the Portuguiser Automatic (42.3 mm x 14.5 mm; for a fairly ubiquitous standard for comparison, the Seiko Diver SKX 007 is 42.5mm x 13.25). Despite the diameter, it doesn't come across as a gratuitously large watch. As is the case with many perpetual calendars there is a lot of information being displayed, with the calendar indications sharing dial space with the chronograph sub-registers, so the available real estate is being put to good use and you actually end up having a more legible than usual perpetual chrono. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["5b6edeb2-edeb-46ae-b7c3-eadcb825d04c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["c93175d8-d50e-4e00-9738-0a72bb05b9b4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This particular, somewhat maximalist approach to complicated watchmaking is a bit in contrast to some of the leaner ways of implementing a perpetual calendar and it's certainly not the only way to do things – the Patek Philippe <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5270g-review/" target=\"_blank\">5270 perpetual calendar chronograph</a>, for instance, has windows for the day of the week and the month, up at 12 o'clock; the moonphase and date share a sub-dial at six o'clock; two additional sub-dials show the running seconds and the chronograph 30-minute counter. </p>\n<p>At 41mm, it's worth pointing out, the 5270 is not dramatically smaller than the Da Vinci, although it's also true that Patek's first perpetual chronograph ever – reference 1518 – is just 35mm in diameter. On the Da Vinci's side, it does include both a minutes and hour register (in the sub-dial at 12 o'clock) so it's delivering a bit of extra data. Still, though, for the Da Vinci, I think the desire to make a watch that not only looks complicated, but also does so in a very old fashioned way, has given us a watch that has a bit more of a connection with the pocket watch tradition of complicated watchmaking, than the wristwatch tradition. </p>\n<p>The movement is IWC's in-house caliber 89630; it's self-winding, with a 68-hour power reserve, a moonphase accurate to one day's error every 577.5 years (a conventional moonphase complication accumulates a full day's error in two years, seven-and-a-half months, although much higher precision moonphase complications – one day in 144 years, or better – have become more or less <i>de rigeur </i>in high-end watchmaking).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7622dfad-b69b-4448-904d-b5af491e8b05"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3e86f316-45c4-4e1c-9c32-c114185f0f31"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["e2db11f2-a55b-494a-87dc-5572d4703688"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>IWC's in-house caliber 89630 looks handsome through the caseback; it doesn't give an impression of bleeding edge, obsessive craft as much as it does of a carefully constructed, more overbuilt-than-not, piece of precision machinery, which is to say, it fits the pocket watch-ish feel of the watch overall quite well. Of course you get the Kurt Klaus mechanism for the perpetual calendar; you also get a 68 hour power reserve, and flyback chronograph. Chronograph operation is crisp and clean, with just a little bit of a push to get through the detent, but in handling in general, the Da Vinci Perpetual Chrono gives the same impression it does visually – a sort of heirloom-quality sobriety. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["50ce6f34-0dfb-45bd-877c-32c02a47a161"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I found myself adjusting to the Da Vinci Perpetual Chronograph quite quickly; the articulated lugs go a long way towards muting the effect of its large and thick case, and in steel, it's easy to wear all day (this from a guy whose daily wear watch is usually under 40mm, sometimes by a lot). </p>\n<p>I did think, while I was wearing it, quite a lot about the fact that the design is somewhat narrow in its appeal, despite the careful updates IWC has given to the original design from 1985. I don't mind any of the changes; objectively, they make sense in terms of bringing the Da Vinci at least a bit into the 21st century, and the design of the new Da Vinci Perpetual Chronograph still has enough in common with the 1985 versions that you feel a sense of connection to the past right away. </p>\n<p>There's no denying that a lot of the reason I like the new piece so much, really does have to do with how much it reminds me of the original – and it's not just a question of the fact that understanding history and context makes the design more appealing. I'd be lying if I didn't say there isn't a pretty good helping of pleasant nostalgia mixed in there as well. Then, too, I think that when you spend a lot of time in a particular realm as an enthusiast – whether it's furniture design, or wine, or watches, or what have you – you can easily start to develop somewhat contrarian tastes and you <i>can </i>find yourself gravitating towards things just because you know a lot of people find them eccentric or weird.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bebe6c30-b366-4d79-bc26-c229f06ce5aa"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The IWC Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, though, isn't a contrarian choice (at least, it doesn't feel that way to me, not even after some introspection). What makes it appealing is what made the very first Da Vinci Perpetual Chronograph so interesting back in 1985 – it's technically distinctive (the more so now, with the use of an in-house movement vs. the 7750 base in the model from the 80s) and its combination of slightly aristocratic and extremely traditional aesthetics, combined with the overbuilt and slightly massive feel of the movement, give it an elegant instrumentality. As cornball as it may sound, it feels, on the wrist, like a real gentleman's wristwatch – a watch of substance, serenity, and quietly self-sufficient style.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>As shown, the IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref. IW392101 in steel is 43mm x 15.5mm; 3 bar water resistance. Movement, IWC caliber 89630, self winding, with 68 hour power reserve; perpetual calendar with four-digit display of the year; chronograph with flyback function and hours/minutes combined in the sub-register at 12:00. Free sprung adjustable mass balance. Price, $29,900. See it online </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.iwc.com/en/collection/davinci/IW3921//" target=\"_blank\"><i>at iwc.com</i></a><i>.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":null,"meta_description":null,"meta_social_media_headline":null,"meta_social_media_description":null,"meta_social_media_image":null,"artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"40212e26-37a3-4fb2-abf2-4741e7ecf5bd","container_id":4441,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1492962944741-w8ch35ysv1r-f084eab33231c659bba26da5a8098d47/hero.jpg","width":4608,"height":2592,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-04-23T12:07:22.044-04:00","updated_at":"2017-04-23T12:07:22.044-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1492962944741-w8ch35ysv1r-f084eab33231c659bba26da5a8098d47/hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/iwc-da-vinci-perpetual-calendar-chronograph-steel-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph In Steel","tags":[]},{"id":4403,"slug":"greubel-forsey-gmt-week-on-the-wrist","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Greubel Forsey GMT","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-04-14T14:22:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-04-08T13:01:38.354-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:34.780-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>One of the most complicated watches Greubel Forsey makes, the GMT impresses technically and aesthetically. But what's it like to actually wear one?<br></p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":49903,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":"58d8d473-1ef4-40f4-bf5c-d80ae02e80f6","display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>Until <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-greubel-forsey-grande-sonnerie/" target=\"_blank\">the Grand Sonnerie</a> came out, one of the most complicated watches Greubel Forsey had in its portfolio was the GMT – a notably pithy name which is in stark contrast to the size, general visual impact, and complexity of the watch itself. It's very seldom that you get a chance to actually see a Greubel Forsey watch in the metal, although over the years I've been lucky enough to see more than my fair share. In 2006, one year after the Double Tourbillon 30° launched, I got to sit next to Stephen Forsey at a dinner in New York and talk for a couple of hours about the tourbillon in general, the theoretical background of the tourbillon, and the technical considerations that gave Forsey and his partner, Robert Greubel, the inspiration for that watch. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It was an extremely memorable night because I took away from it a much better understanding of the pros and cons of tourbillons in general, as well as a pretty striking quote. Towards the end of the night we were talking about the challenges in squeezing a few fractions of a second better performance out of increasingly complex mechanisms, and I asked Stephen Forsey if he felt the game was really worth the candle. He laughed and said, \"Well, you know, it's always a struggle to gain more than you lose.\" </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["68534c58-520d-435d-a1a5-ddafc462e8e9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>That could be something of a motto for Greubel Forsey in general, whose whole production might be seen as a reaction against the notion that there is such a thing as \"good enough\" performance or finish. The designs Greubel Forsey produces can be very polarizing but in general, whether or not they fit your taste ultimately ends up being less interesting than how well each watch succeeds in being what it set out to be.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_left"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Greubel Forsey GMT is one of the most complicated watches from Greubel Forsey (the only two which top it being the Quantième Perpétuel à Équation and the new Grande Sonnerie) and the name, while concise, somewhat undersells the actual complexity of the watch. Visually, it's a showstopper, as most Greubel Forsey watches are. Up front, you have a 24 second inclined tourbillon, tilted at 25°. The hours and minutes are shown in a large sub-dial, and a second time zone is shown to the left. The biggest fireworks are from a titanium globe, which rotates once every 24 hours and shows the Earth as seen from a position above the North Pole. The globe shows about 3/4 of the Earth's surface, with the pivot at the South Pole. The part of the Earth in daylight is shown by the white background side of the 24-hour ring, and an aperture in the side of the case lets light in to shine on the daylight side as well.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["2035ac5a-ed20-4154-986f-132b9cd60f63"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["48aab8d3-248d-4c1b-a07c-e5b36741bd84"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>That the watch undersells itself technically (at least as far as the name goes) becomes apparent when you turn it over. On the back, there is a 24-city, full world-time disk, which, like the globe, rotates once per day, and which shows the correct time in 24 different time zones. The cities in time zones that observe summer time/DST are shown in white, and you can read the correct local time in those cities during the time of year you know DST is in effect, by reading the time off the inner, rather than the outer, 24 hour track. The position of the Sun relative to the Earth is shown on the back of the watch as well; the Sun is represented by a stylized engraving on the wheel affixed to the underside of the globe.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["f4fb4ed6-1498-4ac7-aa7a-c04642087203"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Setting up the GMT is a fairly simple procedure. First, you pull out the crown (there's only one setting position). Next, you set the city disk to the nearest correct hour for your home city (or you can also just set any given city to the nearest correct hour for its time zone). You don't need to take DST into account. The crown can be rotated in either direction. Next, with the crown left out, you press and hold the GMT pusher. This engages the crown with the hour and minute hands, and disengages it from the globe and city disk. You then set the hands to the nearest full hour for your local time position. Finally, you release the GMT pusher, and set the hands to the correct local hour and minute. This advances the globe and city disk as well. </p>\n\n<p>The GMT hand can be set in one hour increments via the pusher. Once you're done setting up the watch, the hour and minute hands, GMT hand, globe, and city disk are all synchronized. When changing time zones, you can use the GMT hand as a local time indicator, by adjusting it to local time as needed; this takes care of any time zone with a full, one hour offset from GMT. There's a sort of power user option as well, however. If you recall, the GMT pusher decouples the crown from the GMT indications, allowing you to just set the hour and minute hands. If you hold the pusher down and re-set the hour and minute hands to local time in your new time zone, you can use the GMT indication as a home time indication, and you can also set the local time to any offset from GMT you need – including non-full hour offsets. This would be the option I'd choose; it's much more natural to read local time off the larger display, and the globe lets you know approximately what o'clock it is anywhere in the world in any case.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["9f277178-c652-4699-a0ef-8fdbc958902e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["05d08c31-9a0f-40cc-a554-614b24ae86a5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now, reading about this sort of thing and understanding the watch technically is one thing, but wearing it is another, and for all the technical sophistication, this is not, I think, ultimately an exercising in primarily technical prowess. Greubel Forsey's watches never really are; they're generally all about an extension of a kind of experimental perfectionism into pretty much every aspect of watchmaking. You could almost think of it as a kid of horological <i>reductio ad absurdum: </i>what happens if you simply push every aspect of traditional horology – not just finish, but also the pursuit of better chronometry with a traditional approach to improved isochronism – as far as it can go? The aesthetics of Greubel Forsey watches have always seemed to me to have been almost stumbled on by accident and although there's a lot that's deliberate about the aesthetics per se, they're so informed by the obsessive pursuit of perfectionism in every aspect of the watch that they become both less, and more, than conventional aesthetics – a very strange, but to me very charming, combination of deadpan earnestness, and utter whimsical lunacy. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b9d76eac-6429-46a8-bc4c-2ad652da3537"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The funny thing about wearing the GMT is that you think before you put it on that it's going to be like winning a date with a $20 million-per-picture film star or getting the keys to a Ferrari F12 for the weekend – you're going to be wowed as much by inhabiting an heretofore uninhabitable demographic as by the actual experience. But somehow that's not the case. You look down at your wrist and while, yes, you do see an extraordinarily expensive and generally unattainable watch, you also see something else. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Earth is 12,742 kilometers in diameter, and if you turn the watch to face you and look at the time, you're looking at that titanium globe from about 10 times its diameter away. That means you're seeing the Earth from above the North Pole as it would look from a distance of about 153,000 kilometers, which is a bit shy of halfway to the moon. At such a distance, the Earth is both close enough to tug at your heartstrings – it's home, after all – and distant enough to seem an abstraction. The combination is a poignant one, and in combination with the tourbillon, and the hour and minute hands, you have dramatically different scales of spatial experience as well as three very different time scales, all in one place on your wrist. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I wore the Greubel Forsey GMT during Baselworld and it was, as you might expect, an attention-getting thing to have on at a watch trade show (and it provoked some goodnatured – I think – ribbing that maybe HODINKEE overpays its staff). But what I took away from the experience wasn't a sense of having lucked out in some horological lottery – it was an experience of almost philosophical tranquility; a feeling that, when I looked at the time, I wasn't so much seeing the time, as I was seeing a broader and more balanced perspective on how we perceive it. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["f89f440c-1857-4d27-8692-9c306e534d39"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Travel broadens, they say, and while there are any number of much more affordable multi-time zone watches out there, there are few that take you outside yourself quite like the Greubel Forsey GMT. Everything has to work together for something like this to really sit up and sing, but the level of attention to technical detail in the GMT is, paradoxically (or maybe necessarily?) what makes it work as a launchpad for fantasy and philosophical rumination as well. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>The Greubel Forsey GMT, as shown: Movement, 36.40mm x 9.80 mm; 72-hour power reserve, running in 50 jewels. Two coaxial mainspring barrels, running in series, fast rotating (one turn/3.2 hours) one with slipping bridle. Free sprung 10mm balance with timing screws; Phillips terminal curve; 21,600 vph. German/nickel silver/maillechort mainplates. Hours, minutes, GMT and world time indications. Case, 43.50 mm x 16.14mm in 950 platinum; water resistance 30 meters. $630,000. Read </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.greubelforsey.com/en/collection/gmt-1/" target=\"_blank\"><i>more about it at GreubelForsey.com.</i></a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"941fe8e6-83e6-44ee-8dd2-9213ce1f489f","container_id":4403,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1491669761028-plj44yrd88bblnq7-e03562f9588ae1ffde28f1e961b55894/P3260181.jpg","width":5184,"height":3888,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2017-04-08T13:01:38.416-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:14:41.690-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1491669761028-plj44yrd88bblnq7-e03562f9588ae1ffde28f1e961b55894/P3260181.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/greubel-forsey-gmt-week-on-the-wrist","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Greubel Forsey GMT","tags":[]},{"id":4397,"slug":"panthere-de-cartier-stainless-steel-review","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Panthère de Cartier ","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-04-12T15:03:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2017-04-05T12:14:18.577-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:35.024-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>After complaining about how women’s watches are too small, I, Cara Barrett, have rediscovered my love for small watches. And it's all the Panthère de Cartier's fault.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":169762,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":"4ec296fe-b7bf-4554-9510-64ec60cc27a2","display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>I have a confession to make. After complaining about how women’s watches are too small and insisting that 36mm is the perfect size watch for any woman, I, Cara Barrett, have rediscovered my love for small watches. I know, I know, the hypocrisy of it all! But that’s how fashion and style work – ebbs and flows, and all that. Watches are no exception. As far as this new interest in smaller watches is concerned, there's one culprit to blame, and that's the new Panthère de Cartier.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["7b4246af-b36a-4aac-82bb-1f725f002397"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/cartier-panthere-de-cartier-collection-2017-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">Back in January, we saw Cartier re-release its iconic (and I really mean that) Panthère de Cartier</a>. This is a watch that was first released during the Must de Cartier days when it was marketed to a glamorous 1980s clientele, and it's been a classic every since. When I saw this new version, I recognized the watch immediately and I knew I had to get one on to my wrist for a review as quickly as possible.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"A Little History"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Unlike the Tank, the Panthère isn't quite a household name. First introduced in 1983 during the heyday of opulence, the Panthère was praised for its sleek design, concealed clasp, and linked bracelet. It quickly became a huge hit among the who's who, men and women alike, with celebrities such as Pierce Brosnan and Keith Richards amongst the noted wearers (I will never not love the picture of Brosnan below). During a time when Studio 54 was the hottest nightclub in town and glamor was everything, it's no surprise that this watch was a hit. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In order to fully understand the impact of such a watch, it is important to know what it was up against at the time. After the death of Pierre Cartier in 1964, his two children and nephew moved to sell the family business. As a result, the company was split up into three semi-autonomous companies, Cartier New York, Cartier Paris, and Cartier London, with each producing different products at different times. This created an uneven brand strategy and allowed for each location to do its own thing. In one particular instance, Cartier New York started selling a <i>gold-plated steel</i> Tank watch for $150 in 1971. This was unheard of at the time, and greatly devalued the image of the brand in the eyes of many longtime patrons.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["557b1134-c69f-426b-972d-c4258bf06ecb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["2d3bf11c-bf3e-45e7-9f77-0f79d8cb1747"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>You have to remember that, at the time, Cartier was the <i>ultimate</i> luxury brand, and up until the 1970s it had been producing super exclusive, astronomically expensive, and very high-quality <i>objets – </i>think Mystery Clocks, personalized shutter watches, and ornate cigarette cases. So selling a gold-plated watch was sacrilege, even though the watch did quite well commercially. Despite marring the image, the idea of a less expensive watch later led to the Must de Cartier collection in 1977, after Cartier was bought by a group of investors. The collection was the brainchild of Joseph Kanoui (who gathered a group of investors to purchase Cartier, Paris), Alain Dominique Perrin, and Robert Hocq. The collection included a variety of shapes and was produced in gold-plated silver, allowing for a more reasonable price point. It was a way of re-branding and appealing to a broader audience (much like Montblanc and TAG Heuer creating smartwatches today), and when quartz movements came into play, it was all the more accessible.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9b6816e1-7df5-49b7-8076-5ab12807f04e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So what does all this have to do with the Panthère? To be clear, the Panthère was NOT part of the Must de Cartier collection, which is why it probably was such a hit with certain clientele. Additionally, there weren't that many fresh-to-market designs at the time, making the Panthère even more desirable. But what I think is most interesting about the timing of the 1983 launch of the Panthère is that even though it seems like a simple ladies’ watch, it was quite a big release for Cartier during a time of increasingly affordable timepieces and must have been a hero collection for a heritage maison trying to regain its footing in the global market. It was first launched in mini, small, medium, and large sizes, in two-tone and yellow-gold options (with a steel model introduced in 1991). The Panthère disappeared sometime in the early 2000s, leaving a hole in Cartier's lineup – until now.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The New Panthère"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Panthère is a ladies’ watch that appears to based on the original Santos, though Cartier doesn't communicate about the watch that way at all. It features a similar square case with a bezel secured by eight small screws. It has a classic flat white dial with elongated Roman numerals and the secret \"Cartier\" signature in the \"X\" at 10 o’clock. </p>\n\n<p>The design is bold, restrained, and utilitarian all at once – and without trying too hard. This is the secret to its success and why it appeals to so many. The watch today comes in small (22mm) and medium (27mm) sizes, in rose gold, yellow gold, steel, and two-tone. There are a few other versions, including a version with black lacquered links, that start to move into high jewelry territory as well. For this review, I am focusing on the medium size in stainless steel, which, to me, seems like the best daily-wear option.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["f36b047f-2411-42f7-a33a-fedbd02df385"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The case may appear to be your average square case, but it is not. While square watches often find themselves only appealing to a niche audience, the Panthère finds more universal appeal due to the complexity and finesse of the design. In particular, the curved edges and that instantly-recognizable screw-down bezel really set the watch apart. </p>\n\n<p>The dial is enclosed in a square steel bezel with rounded corners, which, as I mentioned, is set with eight screws (this is mirrored on the caseback). One of the interesting things about the case design is the curved lugs and crown guards. Both are fluid in appearance and may feel insignificant, but they really add to the overall design of the piece. Without them, the watch wouldn't have the same sense of dynamism at all.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["32bb7b3b-22e3-475f-85ed-407394b06fd0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The bracelet is the second most important thing about this watch. When it was first released, people praised this particular bracelet for its versatility and sleek appearance. Unlike the Tank's bracelet, with its large brushed center links and industrial feel, the Panthère bracelet is polished with smaller brick-like links. They are laid out in a brick pattern and are attached to one another internally at the top and bottom of each link. Additionally, the links are curved, allowing for less weight and more movement, which makes the watch more comfortable on the wrist.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d9ca98a1-8391-4448-8eac-311e016773a6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For this watch, Cartier has used its standard quartz movement. This comes as no surprise to me, however, as the company likely wanted to keep costs down and to make the collection as accessible and commercially viable as possible. Remember, this isn't a niche product we're talking about. So in this instance, it does not bother me one bit that the watch is quartz – <i>haute horlogerie </i>is not what this watch is about, and I appreciate that it's not pretending otherwise.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On the Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What I love most about the Panthère is that it looks equally good on either a buttoned-up Junior Leaguer or a fashion-forward Voguette. It has a timeless quality that anyone can pull off and it comes in a variety of metals and sizes. You can really make this watch your own, despite how simple it might appear. </p>\n\n<p>My favorite is the medium-sized steel version, which measures 27mm on each side. While the rose gold version is also beautiful, the steel is definitely the most versatile and will likely be Cartier's most popular model. That it retails for $4,600, which is one of the lower price points at which you can get a Cartier timepiece.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["b73354aa-804a-40c3-bdbd-c021914e0d83"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>On the wrist, the watch feels great. It's that simple. It is sporty and refined, elegant and easy to wear. I could easily see myself wearing this to play tennis (because I am a prep at heart and that is what one does with a watch such as this) or to attend one of those black tie galas I don't get invited too (I’m looking at you, Met Gala). The more time I spent with the watch the easier it became to see why this was so popular when it first came out. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["26778eb4-7b20-49f5-ad42-ed7c0947ab5e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As I said earlier, the bracelet is 50% of the appeal of this watch. It looks great, sure, but it's also crucial in making this watch so easy to wear. Because of how the links are laid out and connected to one another, the bracelet hugs your wrist without any pinching and can easily be adjusted with the screw-set links near the clasp. The deployant clasp is concealed, just like on the original, and it is easy to unclip with one hand. The only gripe I have is that the bracelet end-links connect to the case, rather than to the ends of the lugs – this can allow for some weird overhang, with the lugs sticking out a tiny bit, but it's not the end of the world. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["fe9896bf-3a1c-4700-a2a1-66eb948bf805"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>So what other watches are there that can compete with the Panthère de Cartier in stainless steel? A few. The most obvious being the Cartier Tank Francaise.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["29e5ce46-ab85-4540-874e-a9b23da4b3ce"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><br></p>\n\n<p>The Tank Francaise is a similar watch in the sense that it is a square(ish) steel watch with a bracelet from Cartier. And while the aesthetic may be totally different to the trained eye (brushed finish, heavier bracelet, rectangular case, etc.), it's clearly in the same family. However, these watches are being sold to people mostly on aesthetic grounds, and in that regard, there are plenty of cases for someone definitively wanting one or the other. On the wrist, the Tank and the Panthère look totally different, with the latter being <i>much</i> more feminine. It is worth noting that the medium-sized steel Tank costs $3,750, while the comparable Panthère costs $4,600. So at the end of the day, this one really just comes down to personal style (and $850). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["b3ca87c6-cf28-4918-a33e-6d2bdd57a7e4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><br></p>\n\n<p>Another watch on the market that could give the Panthère a run for its money is the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-oyster-perpetual-36mm/" target=\"_blank\">Rolex Oyster Perpetual in 36mm</a>. The Oyster Perpetual is far sportier than the Panthère and costs more, at <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rolex.com/watches/oyster-perpetual/m116000-0010.html/" target=\"_blank\">$5,400</a>, but it can still easily fill thae role of a steel everyday watch on a bracelet, albeit in a different way. This watch also brings into play an automatic movement and the Rolex name, both of which can obviously be game-changers for certain customers.</p>\n\n<p><br></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ffd560ba-f12b-4415-8796-18503d721d9d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>A better comparison might be <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rolex.com/watches/datejust/m279160-0014.html/" target=\"_blank\">the new 28mm Lady-Datejust in steel</a>, which was re-introduced this year at Baselworld in three new versions. The steel version with a pink dial and Roman numerals might get closer to the delicate femininity of the Panthère, though, again, this is a far cry from Cartier's particular aesthetic. Retailing for $6,300, it's also in a higher price bracket. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If these comparisons seem a little unusual and it doesn't quite feel like anything is a direct competitor, that's because nothing really is. The steel Panthère has all of that great Cartier style that you can't really find anywhere else – and, if we're being honest, most people who want a Cartier watch just want a Cartier watch. It's the style, the brand, and the history they're buying, so likely nothing else will quite do.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["d4e2510d-c85a-4cec-94fa-8c96b75c783a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One of the main things to reflect on is the fact that the Panthère de Cartier in 1983 was a high-luxury timepiece in comparison to the rest of the market at that time. Fast forward to today, and the same exact watch has become almost mainstream in the same industry. Furthermore, what the Panthère de Cartier does best is appeal to a specific group of buyers. These buyers aren't watch nerds and they aren't worried high-end movements. They might not even be interested in most of the usual-suspect ladies' watches. I think this is why I was so surprised that I enjoyed wearing it so much. After years of complaining about a lack of mechanical watches for women, I found myself back at the source with a 27mm quartz ladies' watch and I loved it. </p>\n\n<p>I think the major takeaway here is that the Panthère de Cartier re-affirms that good design and wearability are more than half the battle. This is something that Cartier understands and applies to all its products. It's a strategy that clearly works. I have always been a huge fan of Cartier and the Panthère de Cartier further solidifies that. And I am sure I am not the only one.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For more information on the Panthère de Cartier, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.cartier.com//" target=\"_blank\">visit Cartier online</a>.</p>\n\n<p><i>Pictured: Medium Rose Gold, $21,200; Small Two-Tone Steel and Yellow Gold, $7,350; Medium Steel, $4,600.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>Visit Hodinkee affiliate Crown & Caliber to shop pre-owned <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.crownandcaliber.com/collections/cartier-watches?utm_source=hodinkee&utm_medium=article&utm_campaign=disclosure-box\%22 target=\"_blank\">Cartier</a> models</p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"af8466aa-9864-44ec-9c3f-c062f054a1f1","container_id":4397,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1491833395387-fln1syj5lg-a58982b72ee8cb3fd4e535c9f1b06b15/20017912_copy.jpg","width":2000,"height":1333,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2017-04-05T12:14:18.680-04:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:15:01.911-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1491833395387-fln1syj5lg-a58982b72ee8cb3fd4e535c9f1b06b15/20017912_copy.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/panthere-de-cartier-stainless-steel-review","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Panthère de Cartier ","tags":[]},{"id":4144,"slug":"jaeger-lecoultre-master-control-date-sector-dial-a-week-on-the-wrist","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date With Sector Dial","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-03-02T13:58:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2017-02-28T17:29:16.651-05:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:35.180-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>One of the most-talked-about watches of the 2017 SIHH, the new Master Control Date adds a sector dial and tons of charm to an iconic Jaeger-LeCoultre archetype.</p>","hero_media_type":"video","hero_video_id":"6106667536001","hero_video_type":"brightcove","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":232106,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":"e8c68eac-ca4b-42bd-a295-9b0f131aa81f","display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>The annual Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) is, as the name would suggest, a show predominantly made up of watchmakers creating watches that represent the upper echelons of watchmaking. Six-figure price tags are a dime a dozen on the show floor. When I first saw the new Master Control Date with a sector dial at Jaeger-LeCoultre's booth, I knew <i>I</i> wanted to get some time with it on my wrist, but when every conversation I had with collectors, journalists, and other industry friends kept coming back to a $5,700 time-and-date watch, I knew we had something special on our hands.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-royal-oak-tourbillon-extra-thin-openworked-steel-3/" target=\"_blank\">Openworked tourbillons</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-zeitwerk-decimal-strike-hands-on/" target=\"_blank\">decimal striking watches</a> are great, sure, but if we're being honest, they're show pieces more than anything else. Very few will ever be made, and very few will ever actually be worn out-and-about. I'm not saying I don't like these kinds of watches – I find them endlessly fascinating and lust-worthy – just that I find watches like this Jaeger-LeCoultre far more compelling in the end. It's a simple watch that offers real watchmaking inside, has a distinctive design, and comes in at a price that makes it affordable to a relatively large swathe of the watch-loving population.</p>\n\n<p>Let's look at how the new sector dial Master Control Date came about and then dig into the details of the watch itself.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Of Masters And Sectors"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["e3099d17-74ef-4473-aad8-068d7460f752"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Master Control collection made its debut for Jaeger-LeCoultre back in 1992. The idea was to create a line of watches that represented the values of pure, classic watchmaking, with a focus on simple aesthetics, functionality, understated technology, and long-term performance. Along with the initial collection of watches, Jaeger-LeCoultre started its \"1,000 Hours Control\" quality check program, which subjects finished watches to a six-week program of tests. This includes impacts, temperature changes, movement through six positions, water resistance, and more – it's all pretty standard stuff now (though six weeks is <i>a lot</i> of time for something like this), but in 1992 this was basically unheard of.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you're paying attention to the dates, a 1992 release would make 2017 the 25th anniversary of the Master Control collection. The watch we have here is actually part of a trio that includes the three core complications that have been in the Master Control collection since the beginning: time and date, chronograph, and travel time. These aren't really being labeled as a 25th anniversary collection, nor are they being marketed as such, but that's essentially what these watches are and they're only going to be produced for this one anniversary year. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["62d20a84-fd43-41a4-9722-2308a07d7bdb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I'm not going to go too in-depth on the other two watches in this collection, but the chronograph is still worth a closer look. While the time-and-date watch is the one that drew me in immediately, I know quite a few people who were over the moon about the chronograph. It's a stainless steel chronograph with a two-tone sector dial for $8,000 – to get that in a vintage watch you'd likely be paying 10x, or even more. It's worth noting that this model is 40mm, so not small, and it has a closed caseback, despite the automatic Jaeger movement inside. The lack of date and the bright blue accents really set this watch apart and make it awesome.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["4235a9d1-a95b-4731-a6da-fd00bed19e4c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The last watch is the Geographic, which, I hate to say, just doesn't do it for me. I like the Geographic in general (I'm a huge fan of travel watches), and I even like the 3-9-12 dial layout. But, there's just too much going on here for a sector dial. You don't get to enjoy the dial design because of all the information packed in.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Speaking of which, it's probably worth defining here what exactly a sector dial is and where it comes from. Loosely speaking, a sector dial is defined by and takes its name from the so-called \"sector,\" which is the central ring on the dial with radiating markers at the hours. In addition to that, sector dials can have other nested registers marking out various increments of time, either outside the sector or at the dial's edge. They're often two-tone, with the coloration inside the sector and outside the sector differing slightly.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6469d06d-1e65-44dc-aeec-17d94580055c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The history of these dials is a little hazy, and most of the big watchmakers produced them at one time or another (not a surprise, since most brands were using the same dial manufacturers). They originate sometime in the late 1920s or early 1930s and can be traced to two applications – officers watches for the military and scientific watches for laboratory use. It's unclear which came first, but the style flourished in the '30s and '40s, for both pocket watches and wristwatches, with Patek Philippe, Omega, and IWC making some of the most lauded examples. Sometime in the late '40s or early '50s the popularity of sector dials began to wane before almost completely disappearing from catalogs.</p>\n\n<p>However, recently, the style has become popular again and watchmakers are creating new takes on the vintage style. Whether it has anything to do with the mania for mid-century everything that's cropped up over the last half-decade or not is another question for another time, but there's no doubt that sector dials are hot right now. And this watch might be one of the hottest examples.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Master Control Date"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["64497167-e52a-47bd-bee1-72e7107f12af"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Master Control Date is the foundation of the Master Control collection. It's a simple watch with three central hands and a date window at three o'clock. Here the stainless steel case is 39mm across and just 8.5mm thick. This doesn't make it an \"ultra-thin,\" strictly speaking, but the watch does feel very slim in comparison to most other watches being made today. The tops of the lugs and the curved bezel are polished, but the sides of the case are brushed, giving it a crisp edge and some added contrast.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["790fe756-64ed-42fa-802a-2adb7e361c0a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>What really makes this watch special though is the dial. The sector dial is two-tone, with an opaline finish in the center and a satin-brushed finish around the outer section. Both are technically silver in color, but in more direct light the center looks almost cream colored while the outside resembles the brushed steel of the case. Most of the markings, including the sector and the numerals, are black, with bright blue accents at the five-minute marks and on the date disc. </p>\n\n<p>There are two details have have drawn criticism from others, and, in both cases, I'm actually on the side of the watch. The first, if you haven't guessed already, is the date window. Purists be damned, I think it makes this a better watch for daily wear (and general industry sales figures would indicate that most watch buyers agree with me). I understand wanting a pure, date-less dial, and I certainly wouldn't argue with it that way, but I think Jaeger-LeCoultre has done a nice job integrating it into the design instead of just cutting a hole in an already configured dial.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["92d180f0-04b9-473d-a47c-432312344f0d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Second is the blued steel hand set. The seconds hand is slim and simple, but the hour and minute hands have an open syringe shape. They do resemble vintage hands with the lume missing – there's no denying that – but I think they're the right choice here. If they were plain, slim hands, they'd feel dull and be hard to read; if they were filled with lume, they would be too big and dominate the overall design. Here they're broad, but light. They tell the time, but they let you admire the dial below. They're unconventional, sure, but they're also great.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f6c2d0d2-a01e-415d-b1c8-611b49a663fd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Of course, since this is a Master Control watch, there's an in-house Jaeger-LeCoultre movement inside. The JLC caliber 899/1 is an automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve. It's just 3.3mm thick and has 219 parts total, with a balance beating at 4 Hz. It strikes a nice balance between being beautiful and being utilitarian. The solid pink gold rotor is a great example of this, and finishing throughout is very nice. No crazy bevels or anything like that, but a seriously nice movement for a watch in this price range. In fact, it'd be tough to find a better one.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["83b01e27-a421-4488-9f25-e0224f55d03b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["86605c9b-ad92-4192-8515-8a2a38e41dbe"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This watch looks great in a case or on a table, but it's when you put the thing on that it really starts to sing. The case size is just fantastic, and you really start to appreciate that 8.5mm height after wearing it for a bit. The watch almost seems to disappear on the wrist when you're typing at your desk or just walking around the city. Comfort is something that doesn't get talked about enough when evaluating watches, and this is one seriously comfortable watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["4e625b5f-168b-47bc-8633-609cecdfb0a9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But before I could really start enjoying this watch, I had to do one thing: change the strap. Packaged with the Master Control Date is a dark blue alligator strap with some padding up top and matching blue stitching. It closes with a simple pin buckle (major bonus points for not including a deployant here). However, I found the strap to be extremely stiff and uncomfortable, with the padding unnecessary and wonky. I'm sure it would soften up a bit after some wear, but the quality didn't seem to match that of the watch itself. Easy fix though. I threw the watch on a textured grey calf leather strap (from <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/straps/products/textured-light-grey-calfskin-watch-strap/" target=\"_blank\">the HODINKEE Shop</a>, if you'll allow an unintentional but shameless plug) and it immediately felt right at home.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ffdde518-3a04-4693-8045-c316d2f146af"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Most of my friends are pretty used to seeing me show up places with some new watch on my wrist that I'm obliged to wear for a review (tough life, I know). Usually they don't even take notice anymore, and very rarely do they comment on the watches. This watch though got tons of attention. For something relatively understated and small, the Master Control Date is extremely striking and, even to the uninitiated, it looks like something special. I even had non-watch friends asking to try it on, which <i>never</i> happens.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["39424e4c-c12f-402e-8c49-dc689a0b985d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you're a longtime HODINKEE reader, it probably comes as no surprise that I really dig this watch. As someone not-so-mildly obsessed with things like classic Richard Neutra buildings and old Leica cameras, a modestly-sized watch with a clean, minimalist dial inspired by mid-century functionalism is right in my wheelhouse. But, even if you can't pick a Case Study House out of a lineup, the Master Control Date's design should still be appealing. It's easy to read, comfortable on the wrist, and the subtle contrasts on the dial make it something you can look at repeatedly, discovering something new each time.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>And then there's the price. At $5,700, this watch presents better value than any other watch I saw at the SIHH. When I first saw the watch in a vitrine, I honestly thought the price would be somewhere around the $8,000 mark. When I was told $5,700, I thought there might be a mistake. Sure, $5,700 is still a serious amount of money (even when we're talking about watches), but for what you get here, it's much more than a fair ask.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["f581f4ec-14e9-48f0-9889-7e11f2bd6ad6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>When looking at what other watches might compete with the sector dial Master Control Date, the obvious choice is...the Master Control Date. There are a few versions of the watch in <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/us/en/watches/master.html?JLCclick=MyJLCSubHome\%22 target=\"_blank\">JLC's current catalog</a>. Strangely, they're all actually more expensive than the version with the sector dial, at $6,350. Technically the watches are the same, so maybe this is a by-product of price increases over the years or something similar. To me, the main appeal of the new Master Control Date is that sector dial, but I guess if you like everything else but want a more classic dress watch this could be one way to go.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["899e6afc-7ca0-40e3-8306-dee54294ce64"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But what if you're definitely looking for a time-only watch with a sector dial? The first watches that come to mind are <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/habring2-erwin-scientific-dial/" target=\"_blank\">the new scientific dial Erwin and Felix</a> from Habring². They're very similar, with two-tone dials and blue accents, with the former having a jumping seconds complication too. Priced at $5,900 (the Erwin) and $4,900 (the Felix), these watches fall squarely in the same range as the Master Control Date. Personally, I like the dial on the Jaeger a lot more, but you do get something different mechanically from Habring², and, in the case of the Erwin, a jumping seconds complication. What really makes the case for these watches are that they're really your only options in the same price range with sector dials.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["488eabac-1403-4e9d-8f6a-9fd16187e944"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Now, if you're willing to up your budget, that's when you start to get more options. But I'm not talking about an extra $1,000 or $2,000. The <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.patek.com/en/mens-watches/calatrava/5296G-001/" target=\"_blank\">Patek Philippe ref. 5296G</a> with a sector dial will set you back $26,990. It's made of white gold, it has a more complex sector dial, and it's got an automatic Patek movement inside – it's sort of a strictly upgraded version of the Master Control Date we have here. However, the two aren't really competitive in my opinion – most people aren't comparison shopping one watch against another watch that costs nearly five times as much. Or, rather, they shouldn't be.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["04fe116e-c2d8-48ee-830f-a017fe7ff96d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Then there's your last major option: vintage. In the 1930s and '40s (and, sure, a little before and after), tons of brands, from the high end to the low end, were making sector dial watches. At the higher end, things can get really crazy, like with the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/that-insane-patek-530-sector-dial-coming-up-at-christies-geneva/" target=\"_blank\">Patek Philippe ref. 530 chronograph</a> seen above, which fetched $1,237,777 at Christie's in May 2016. But, you can also find sector dial watches from the likes of Omega, IWC, Longines, Eberhard, and others, for much more reasonable prices. For something good, in a 35-38mm size, in steel, you're still looking at more than $5,900, but you could still pick something up for under $10,000 in today's market.</p>\n\n<p>Do be wary of re-dialed vintage watches with sector dials. Especially right now, while the style is hot, there are shady characters out there trying to turn something basic into something special. In many cases, even if the dial is original, it's been retouched to make the finer markings really pop and look incredible.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a2f017cd-11e0-4c6e-9c88-ce34cf39be9b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I probably don't have to tell you by now that I really like this watch. And I mean <i>really</i>. If you had told me going into SIHH less than two months ago that my hands-down favorite watch would be a sub-$10,000 watch with three hands, I'd likely have assumed you'd never heard of the SIHH before. But here we are and here I am wishing I still had this watch on my wrist.</p>\n\n<p>The new Master Control Date offers something truly unique in the market today. It's a reasonably-sized, reasonably-priced watch with a distinct design sensibility, a technically-sound movement, and a nod to coveted vintage watches, all while being extremely contemporary and wearable. It's a watch that a lot of people could (and likely will) wear everyday and enjoy for a very long time. And, to me, those are the best kinds of watches. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date with sector dial is priced at $5,700. It is not a limited edition, but will only be produced for one year to celebrate the collection's 25th anniversary. All three new sector dial models should be arriving in boutiques beginning this summer.</p>\n\n<p>For more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/us/en/watches/master/master-control-date/1548530.html/" target=\"_blank\">visit Jaeger-LeCoultre online</a>.</p>\n\n<p><i>Video/Photos: Greyson Korhonen</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"<p>Visit Hodinkee affiliate Crown & Caliber to shop pre-owned <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.crownandcaliber.com/collections/jaeger-lecoultre-watches?utm_source=hodinkee&utm_medium=article&utm_campaign=disclosure-box\%22 target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Jaeger-LeCoultre</a> models</p>","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"fdd426b6-6e36-4989-ba08-c438bb1b9175","container_id":4144,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1488320918158-t4qvlcgladcfmpta-af533f7bef8e2acdb073b650fffc5bbc/20017189_copy.jpg","width":2000,"height":1333,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":"<p></p>","alt_text":null,"created_at":"2017-03-02T13:58:56.101-05:00","updated_at":"2017-03-02T13:58:56.101-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1488320918158-t4qvlcgladcfmpta-af533f7bef8e2acdb073b650fffc5bbc/20017189_copy.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-master-control-date-sector-dial-a-week-on-the-wrist","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date With Sector Dial","tags":[]},{"id":4090,"slug":"fp-journe-octa-quantieme-perpetuel-week-on-the-wrist","column_slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","title":"The F.P. Journe Octa Quantième Perpétuel","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2017-02-22T11:09:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2017-02-15T08:27:12.148-05:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:19:35.597-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":69,"lede":"<p>After a collector friend called the Octa Quantième Perpétuel \"the biggest miss in horological journalism in recent years,\" we knew it was time to take a closer look at this overlooked F.P. Journe.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1487165222659-npje2hbqdsuioj1p-2643b9886befb4a4f84bc085f8f524e1/IMG_5502.JPG","hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":56172,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":"90df1729-e896-427c-95a5-465c6e44053e","display_template":"package_video","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>Not very long ago, a collector friend called the Octa Quantième Perpétuel \"the biggest miss in horological journalism in recent years.\" Ouch. He claimed the watch had received very little attention from the mainstream watch media. And he wasn’t wrong. This is a Francois-Paul Journe perpetual calendar wristwatch after all, and it’s the first digital perpetual calendar with instantaneous jumping day, date, and month made by anyone. I decided it was time to right this wrong. There are currently four different Octa QP models, and I was lucky enough to get my hands on the 40mm model in red gold with a red gold dial, my favorite of the four configurations (there are platinum cases and 42mm versions too). It's a pretty good way to start on the right footing.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["56335455-18a7-45bf-81c3-d9fe23772d8a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>To get a sense of the obsessiveness encapsulated in Journe’s new perpetual calendar right off the bat, there's one thing you need to know. The calendar indications (the large date, day, and month) all change in an instant, and the only way you can capture their jump is if you use an extremely high-speed camera. That’s how Journe checked their speed and synchronization during the development phase, and if you visit the manufacture in Geneva, you’ll find that very camera sitting inside the master's office.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"First Impressions"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["07248fa2-8353-4aec-916b-1aedfe77752c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The first thing you’ll notice about this perpetual calendar is that it has a relatively streamlined dial. Traditional perpetual calendars use multiple sub-dials to display the day, date, and month, and many of them even have a moonphase indication too. That’s the way it’s been since the very first perpetual calendar wristwatch, and it’s a familiar image in the minds of collectors. Information overload is certainly part of the appeal of owning a perpetual calendar, but so many times watches that go that route trade in legibility for busy dials. The funny thing about watches with complications is that they are only as good as their most basic function, which is to tell the time in a clear and legible manner. That’s the information the wearer is after more often than not. And if the watch fails at this level, it fails completely. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Octa QP is a perpetual calendar that behaves more like a time-only watch. What I mean by that is that the calendar functions are secondary to the hour and minute hands. The latter are what you will see first when you look at the dial of the Octa QP, and right away they direct your gaze toward the chapter ring, away from the cluster of indicators, and directly towards the hour markers.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"full-width","quote":"<p>The Octa Quantième Perpétuel is the type of watch you say to yourself you'd wear every day if you had one, but if you did, you would end up wearing it only occasionally, mostly in the evenings, since this one really can't afford too many careless knocks.<br></p>","source":"Arthur Touchot"},"type":"Block::PullQuote"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Then, from left to right, you’ll find the power reserve in a well-defined space on the left-hand side of the inner dial, and last, but certainly not least, the calendar indications, each one framed by its own dedicated aperture window, and the leap year indication, which is placed at the very center of the watch, around the pinhole for the hands – a tiny hand points toward the red \"L\" during a leap year.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["13d7d2c1-09f4-48f6-9fef-21b3a46ec27c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It’s an incredibly well-thought-out dial – perhaps the best that F.P. Journe has made yet, in my opinion. The calendar is condensed to show only the information that is relevant on any given day. Unnecessary information is not shown, so that only what is important is delivered to the owner of the watch in a quick and clear manner.</p>\n\n<p>A prime example of this is the leap year. The information it provides is of little importance – it changes only once a year – and yet many QPs display it quite prominently. Others choose to hide it completely, by placing it at the back. But Journe’s solution shows a little more ingenuity and, dare I say, a little cheekiness on the watchmaker’s part.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["7996a878-4b4e-4323-8261-4652ce06beee"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The most satisfying aspect of the dial though is its symmetry – and who would have thought that we’d be saying that about an F.P. Journe? The French watchmaker is a serial offender when it comes to making asymmetrical dials. It’s a signature, of sorts. Sure, the power reserve is off to the left on this watch, but the hands are still centrally placed and the windows are centrally aligned. It still has that definitively Journe look, but in a way that will satisfy those craving balance.</p>\n\n<p>It’s a move that certainly seems necessary for a perpetual calendar too. As I've previously mentioned, there’s a lot of information for the wearer to digest here, and an off-balance layout would only add confusion to the dial. In fact, that’s precisely how F.P. Journe packaged his first perpetual calendar, the Octa Perpétuelle, and the results weren't so good.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"On The Wrist "},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["92a34d63-a33c-448a-88c1-7b9467c80099"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Quite often when I put a watch on the wrist, I genuinely do not know if it will wear comfortably. There are a few exceptions of course, one of them being anything made by F.P. Journe. But there are still things to look out for, particularly when trying on a perpetual calendar. Because the complication often requires that several hundred components fit into a tight space, quite a few watchmakers are forced to stack them and add a couple of millimeters in height in order to make a watch that is not too large. However, the Octa QP is only 10.8mm thick, and that’s despite having a large balance wheel, not to mention four discs for the calendar indications.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["f6dbb43f-288d-45ef-836a-358cd49243a6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It’s a matter of personal taste, but I found the more compact size suits the Octa QP a little better – but maybe that’s just me holding on to the era of smaller F.P. Journe cases. The Octa QP was one of the first standard F.P Journe watches to break into 42mm territory. For what it’s worth, I spoke to a few owners of the 42mm Octa QP, and all of them said they picked the larger size not because of the size of their wrist but because they felt it was better proportioned.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Octa Quantième Perpétuel is the type of watch you say to yourself you'd wear every day if you had one, but if you did, you would end up wearing it only occasionally, mostly in the evenings, since this one really can't afford too many careless knocks. However, this is where the movement’s performance comes in, <i>big time</i>. An inherent weaknesses of any perpetual calendar is that it’s instantly noticeable when you’ve left the power reserve run out for too long, and it’s often quite complicated to re-adjust the calendar indications before wearing it again. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ed5fcf3a-c5f4-4ead-8182-08f023b7a14d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Because all corrections can be made via the crown, it’s much less of a pain with the Octa QP, but chances are you won’t even have to experience that because of the movement’s 120-hour power reserve. That’s a five-day insurance policy for the wearer, guaranteeing the watch will continue running smoothly as long as you wear it a few times per week. If, however, you did let it run down, F.P. Journe has installed a rapid month corrector underneath the lug at one o'clock, so you won't have to go through the date indication to catch up on the calendar.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"inline_billboard"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5c2fed63-5101-4ba7-9a97-30c12fc6eefd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Octa QP is powered by a chronometer-certified movement, and like the precision chronometers the company makes, it is manufactured in red gold – all of it, from the mainplate to the bridges. Journe chose caliber FPJ 1300-3, an automatic movement that supports several complications in the Octa line, as the basis for his second perpetual calendar. A huge advantage of the caliber is that the dimensions stay the same (30.8mm x 5.8mm), no matter what is added to it. </p>\n\n<p>This movement features a large balance – atypical for watches that have long power reserves – which is free-sprung and vibrates at 21,600 vph. The movement is wound by a beautifully decorated 22k gold rotor placed on a ball bearing system to maximize the efficiency of even the smallest movements of the wrist. It’s a stunning sight underneath the sapphire caseback, and its another way Journe watches distinguish themselves from the competition. Speaking of which...</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["049b6e39-e00e-432f-abf9-1dc6c4f78eb9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Competition"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ab294e48-a575-4a56-8285-cf8484a03ad2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>In red gold, the QP retails for $67,800 (40 mm) or $69,500 (42 mm), while in platinum it will set you back either $71,700 (40 mm) or $73,400 (42 mm). So, what else can you buy for approximately $70,000? Well, certainly not another instantaneous perpetual calendar, and that’s why it’s so difficult to compare the Octa QP to the rest of the field. But here's our best shot. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["c4677e72-905f-4a16-b118-60260abdf757"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If legibility is strictly what you’re after, the closest thing to the Octa QP is the H. Moser <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-h-moser-endeavour-perpetual-calendar-review/" target=\"_blank\">Endeavour Perpetual Calendar</a>. This one's another perpetual calendar concerned primarily with being minimalist, and in rose gold it retails for $60,000, which is slightly less than Journe's model. It's a little trickier to read – the indexes around the dial work as both the hour markers and the month indication and it takes a little mental agility to read – and crucially, it does not display the day of the week. But the point is once again to streamline the dial. However, and I don't mean to slight Moser, but I don't think these two are comparable because independents tend to attract clients who buy into their brand, and Moser and Journe are two very different brands. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["700233f1-f5b7-408a-b508-d886cf7e5dd9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>More traditional rivals may offer more competition. Audemars Piguet, Lange and Patek Phillipe all have perpetual calendar roughly in the same price range. However, the 41mm <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-audemars-piguet-perpetual-calendar-26574-in-yellow-gold/" target=\"_blank\">Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar</a>, the 38.5 mm <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-a-lange-sohne-langematik-perpetual/" target=\"_blank\">Langematik Perpetual</a> and the 39.5mm <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-5327-a-brand-new-perpetual-calendar-model/" target=\"_blank\">Ref. 5327R</a> display their calendar indications in a much more traditional layout, with multiple subdials and moonphase indicators. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["05d7e034-a063-4957-94b5-49f2bc7edbe0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Lange and Patek watches are also both more expensive than the Octa QP, and that makes Journe’s perpetual calendar his finest and most serious challenge of the current watch establishment. It's certainly the most inventive. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Final Thoughts"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I mentioned earlier that one of the pleasures of owning and wearing a perpetual calendar is the overwhelming display of information on a single dial. Which is why I’m surprised to say I found this perpetual calendar even more enjoyable to wear in the long term than most classic perpetual calendars. </p>\n\n<p>In terms of design, the Octa QP introduces only a relatively minor modification to the traditional perpetual calendar display. Some of the earliest perpetual calendar wristwatches displayed the day and month through apertures, and the digitization of the date is simply the latest evolution. It's not totally unexpected that Journe would be the first to display all of the calendar indications digitally either, since the double date structure is one of his specialities.</p>\n\n<p><br></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["f6169043-04c9-4ab9-b5a8-2d8cc23861fa"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The all-digital display has left us with a watch that looks significantly less like a perpetual calendar. Instead of dominating the dial, the calendar indications fade into the background, to the benefit of the time display, and, ultimately, to the benefit of the owner of the watch as well.</p>\n\n<p>After spending a week with the Octa Quantième Perpetual, I find myself thinking of it not as a perpetual calendar that happens to be made by F.P. Journe, but, rather, as an F.P. Journe that happens to display a whole lot more than any of the French watchmaker’s other creations. It’s a very mature watch from Journe, for his most mature clients. And perhaps that’s why it took one of them to convince me to pay attention to this watch in the first place.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.fpjourne.com//" target=\"_blank\">visit F.P. Journe online</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":null,"internal_notes":null,"hero_image":{"id":"23962421-766f-4185-b676-732bedfe743e","container_id":4090,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/1487165222659-npje2hbqdsuioj1p-2643b9886befb4a4f84bc085f8f524e1/IMG_5502.JPG","width":2000,"height":1333,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":"<p></p>","alt_text":"","created_at":"2017-02-23T01:31:28.498-05:00","updated_at":"2022-03-17T09:15:31.784-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/1487165222659-npje2hbqdsuioj1p-2643b9886befb4a4f84bc085f8f524e1/IMG_5502.JPG?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"column":{"id":2,"slug":"a_week_on_the_wrist","name":"A Week On The Wrist","description":"A popular video series in which HODINKEE editors test-drive a watch in a variety of situations over the course of a week – and report back on their findings.","sort_order":0,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.938-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:56:14.372-04:00","status":"visible"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/fp-journe-octa-quantieme-perpetuel-week-on-the-wrist","full_title":"A Week On The Wrist: The F.P. Journe Octa Quantième Perpétuel","tags":[]}],"currentArticleId":13017}">
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