Staff Picks The Most Slept-On Watches Of 2023

So far, we've covered budget watches, sport watches, dress watches, and complicated watches, but today, we hit what is likely my favorite topic for a year-end round-up – watches that we believe didn't get enough shine (that's attention) when they dropped – aka. The most slept-on watches of 2023. 

Habring continues to be slept on as an entire brand. The Erwin is one of the most interesting and well-made time-only watches you can buy for under $10,000 – flat out. Their latest Chrono Felix features a Top Second complication that is a bit more of a quirk than a complication, but it is impressive and unique nonetheless.

What I love about Habring is the accessibility; while these are not the most straightforward watches to purchase online, they are available if you want one. That goes for most of the catalog. The Top Second calls back to Mondia chronographs of the 1960s, a subject close to my heart as I love vintage Movado and Zenith more than anyone should (the three brands were under the same "MZM" umbrella for a bit).

The military-inspired pilot's watch vibe of the dial and hands here is honestly one that I don't fall for often, but this one does it for me. Maybe it is the overall dialed-back aesthetic of Habring or the brand's ties with IWC, but this just feels right. The Top Second was nominated for a GPHG prize in the "Petite Aiguille" category, ultimately losing to the Christopher Ward Bel Canto, but so many watches nominated for GPHG are not available right now, while this one is. 

–Rich Fordon, VIP Advisor

Before coming after me for choosing a Rolex in this category, hear me out. This is my second GMT pick of this year's roundups, but I feel it is necessary to include this particular watch here because it is, without question, one of the most slept-on watches — at least for the past eight months. When this was unveiled at Watches & Wonders, it was my pick of the show. I had even near-accurately predicted it in the run-up to the show, so I was doubly happy to see it in the metal. This watch had buzz; everyone was chattering about it. But then, as the months have worn on, the talk has gone from a whisper to almost complete silence. 

Well, here's the wake-up call: The solid yellow gold GMT-Master II on the long-awaited solid yellow gold Jubilee bracelet is – despite the hefty price tag and difficulty to find at retail (or on the secondary market for that matter) – just pure horological excitement. It's on my list of "someday watches," and it was a key moment of 2023.

–Danny Milton, Managing Editor

Chanel killed it with underdog hits this year. There was a robot-shaped Première, the  Première x-ray, a full baguette-set J12, giant pin cushion-inspired watches, and a black lacquer Mademoiselle Privé Lion cuff.

There was a pervasive futuristic theme chez Chanel at Watches & Wonders this year. But the Hyper Cybernetic was, at least design-wise, the most interesting and most wearable of the bunch. It's the kind of playful evolution of a classic model that should have other large well-known watch brands taking notes. It comes with and without diamonds (See Cybernetic without the hyper that comes in black and white ceramic). I subscribe to the more-is-more aesthetic, so I'll take mine with gems.

This design is a conceptual take on a sporty Y2K emblem, a perfectly modern remix. It looks like an accessory that could easily walk the Chanel runway. A convergence of Swiss watchmaking with a little DNA from the Maison's design atelier. And don't we all know I love outside creative cross-pollination?

–Malaika Crawford, Style Editor

With all the hype around small independents, you'd think Atelier de Chronometre would get a lot of love. But they don't. Maybe it's because the calibers aren't in-house, and there's no real technical innovation here, etc, but I've been a fan from afar for years, and they are doing things in a truly artisanal, old-school way I find very charming.

This year, they introduced the AdC22, their first creation with an in-house movement. The architecture is much the same as what existed before, but that's beside the point. They didn't need to take a step towards in-house, and they did it anyway. And look at the watches themselves, in particular the dial varieties, and tell these aren't some of the most handsome watches being made today. And yes, they're being made not in Switzerland, Germany, or Japan...but in Spain. How cool is that?

–Ben Clymer, Founder

We take a lot of meetings and handle a lot of watches in a year. Most don't result in stories just because of how quickly the industry moves. That's unfortunate, especially in the case of Naoya Hida, who provided one of the most thoughtful and infectious short meetings I took when he was in New York earlier this year, showing his new Type 4A and Type 4A-1 watches.

There was a loud groan from some commenters at the price of the two watches – approaching $20,000 – one that came from the idea of a heavily modified Valjoux movement being made into such an expensive watch. Not only does that completely ignore the history of everything from simple to complicated watches (ebauché movements were common for more of the history of modern watchmaking than in-house movements and resulted in some of the most collectible watches ever), but it also misses the point regarding the craftsmanship of these watches.

With only 15 pieces of the Type 4A to be produced between 2023 and 2024, you could wonder what's taking so long. But then you handle these watches in person and see Hida-san's thoughtfulness and the craftsmanship put into these watches. The German silver dial has hand-engraved numerals filled with enamel. The back of the hands, which you probably will never see, are hollowed out to reduce weight and increase efficiency, while the front of the hands are faceted and eye-catching. The case finishing is great and, like the rest of the watch, draws from vintage inspiration while being unmistakably modern. Then there's the story of a man who, at 54 years old, started a company from scratch to make something he felt compelled to bring into the world. All that combines for a great watch and a company worth watching more closely in the future. 

–Mark Kauzlarich, Editor + Staff Photographer 

After meditating on the nearly magnetic draw that the stars on the Ming Moonphase had on me, I completely fell down the rabbit hole of watch design whimsy, so to speak. And what was arguably one of the most whimsical releases seen in 2023? The second installment of the Miffy Moonphase by De Rijke & Co.

To own up to my own bias, I have been a bit of a Miffy fanatic since childhood. Hold it against me if you must. But all things considered, De Rijke & Co.'s tribute to Miffy doesn't feel overwhelmingly childish. Playful and charming, definitely. Balancing the Miffy character within the moon phase with an otherwise sparsely decorated dial helps achieve an impressive degree of sophistication for a watch that features an illustrated bunny on the dial. And, little Miffy herself has been completely lacquered by hand (for those concerned with craftsmanship).

Is it a bit of a steep price for a cartoon watch? Yes. Is the moon phase function itself possibly a bit confusing to read? Yes. Is the Miffy character subtle yet still undeniably cute? Also, yes – and this final fact is enough for me to cancel out the previous gripes. Just to put it out there – if any of you has a lead on where I can get my hands on one of these on the secondary market, please don't hesitate to reach out. Serious inquiries only.

–Erin Wilborn, Copywriter

I continue to find AnOrdain one of the most exciting watch manufacturers. Its brand of accessible craftsmanship continues to be one of the most compelling stories in all of watches. That's why they have years-long waitlists and aren't even taking new orders (though I hear this will be changing soon!).

This year, AnOrdain introduced the Model 3. It's an all-new case design, but the story really starts with the dial. The Model 3 features a wavy, enamel dial inspired by hand-carved wooden boxes from Method Studio (they've made boxes for Vacheron, Burberry, Rebecca Struthers, and others). The pattern is stamped into the dial, and then AnOrdain's in-house enamellers hand-apply enamel to the textured dials.

Maybe there's some bias here – back in May, AnOrdain debuted its new Model 3 by collaborating with Hodinkee for a limited edition. In typical Hodinkee fashion, that limited edition featured a muted grey dial with a hand-engraved sunburst pattern.

But I truly believe the new AnOrdain Model 3 is just that good, and I love the bright enamel colors the brand has chosen to complement the wave pattern. Beyond the Model 3, what I appreciate most about AnOrdain is the way Lewis Heath and team have slowly grown over the past few years, even as the brand has experienced outsized interest. Growth has been slow and steady, with an emphasis on making sure craftsmanship is never compromised. And that should never be slept on.

–Tony Traina, Editor

You want slept-on? How about a high-beat, fully-titanium Alpine Eagle? Want critical levels of sleepy? The Alpine Eagle 8HF was originally launched with a different dial treatment (a gorgeous grey dial) in November of 2021. I slept on it then, but when Chopard dropped a new version for 2023, I made a mental note because I just love the mix provided by this oddball Alpine Eagle. Titanium, a sporty black/orange dial treatment, 41mm sizing, and an automatic movement that ticks at 8Hz? Talk nerdy to me, Chopard. 

Though I admit to preferring the 37mm versions of the Alpine Eagle, I'd be also thrilled to make a concession for such a subtle and specific take on the format (though it would be hard to choose between the 2021 grey dial and the 2023 black dial). Inside and ticking at a furious pace, we find Chopard's Caliber 01.12-C, which has 60 hours of power reserve supporting some 57,600 vibrations per hour. 

This watch isn't just slept-on; it's also a bonafide sleeper on wrist. A quietly wild outlier from the Alpine Eagle collection. I hope one day I will have one to call my own. 

–James Stacey, Lead Editor