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What We Know
In recent years, we've seen Glashütte Original experiment in various ways with its Senator line, from skeletonized dials to Tourbillon movements along with stylistic changes of the more typical sort. Now, the brand has decided it's high time to refresh its staple collection, favoring a galvanized silver dial with tempered blue indices for its aesthetic reboot.
For some in-depth coverage of Glashütte Original's rich history, I will point you in the direction of our own Mark Kauzlarich's reporting on the brand's Sixties Small Seconds and the Senator Cosmopolite from his time in Saxony this past spring. Since I have yet to step foot into the "Cradle of Traditional German Watchmaking" myself, I'm just going to dive into everything we know about this watch.
This new Senator Chronometer takes its stylistic cues from the original marine chronometers that put Glashütte Original on the map in the 19th and 20th centuries, but to my eye, does not fall prey to any stuffiness of trying to stick with tradition. Here I am calling attention to the color palette yet again, but the unexpected combination of silver with all-blue details safeguards against any boring dress watch accusations that the über-traditional combination of Roman numerals and leaf hands could incite. Glashütte Original is known for its dial work, and the new Senator doesn't fall short in this department. Finished by hand, the lustrous silver tones are achieved by taking a mixture of silver, salt, and water to the dial blank before rubbing it into the surface. After this, the dial receives a galvanic grey coating to enhance the vibrancy.
Good looks aside, Glashütte Original is well-regarded for its movements, and the manual winding caliber within the 58-08 isn't one to be discounted. In addition to being manufactured in-house, Glashütte Original sends its movements off for testing by the Thuringian Office of Weights and Measures to receive official chronometer certification. Each model of the 58-08 caliber undergoes a 15-day test run, and is subject to examinations in five positions and in three different temperatures to ensure its accuracy.
The 58-08 caliber movement itself is crafted with a unique mechanism for its stop-seconds functionality. Pull out the crown to set the time, and the seconds hand will instantaneously jump to zero and stop to efficiently coordinate with a reference time down to the second. The minute detent system also jumps the minute hand to position with a pleasant haptic click to ensure the minutes and seconds are in exact alignment.
The white gold case of this new Senator Chronometer has a 42mm diameter and an 11.4mm case thickness – a little larger than typical dress watch standards (okay, more than a little), but the extra real estate is the price you pay for this level of movement. Oh, and you can see that three-quarter plate caliber at work through the sapphire crystal caseback, too.
What We Think
While I'm already anticipating some negative reactions from the generally label-averse folks to the size of the Glashütte Original logo at nine o'clock, I happen to think it feels nicely balanced with the date window at three o'clock along with the vertical layout of the chronometer and power reserve subdials. In terms of visual harmony, it's a win for me.
Also, the $32,300 price tag is not slight or approachable by any means, and I won't pretend it is. But! For that price, you're getting a meticulously crafted, tested, and certified chronometer movement, a hefty serving of white gold, a dial made by hand, and some of Glashütte Original's most aesthetically sound design. If any of those things are up your alley and the price tag hasn't sent you heading for the hills yet, there are definitely worse things you could drop that amount of (sizable) change on.
If you're in the market for a highly-functional dress watch that exudes a sense of timelessness without being a snooze, this Senator Chronometer is definitely up to the challenge.
The Basics
Brand: Glashütte Original
Model: Senator Chronometer
Reference Number: 1-58-08-01-04-61
Diameter: 42mm
Thickness: 11.4mm
Case Material: White Gold
Dial Color: Silver
Lume: No
Water Resistance: 50 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Blue alligator leather strap with white gold clasp
The Movement
Caliber: 58-08
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, day/night indicator, certified chronometer
Power Reserve: 44 hours
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 4 Hz
Chronometer Certified: Yes
Pricing & Availability
Price: $32,300
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: No
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Hodinkee is an authorized retailer of Glashütte Original. For more information on the Senator Chronometer, click here.
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