Introducing: The Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture

What We Know

In 35 short years, Frederique Constant has quickly become a go-to brand for enthusiasts looking for quality at an affordable price. But unlike a lot of brands that would stick to the movements on the market and use design skills to provide bargains for their fans, FC has released 30 in-house – "Manufacture," as they call them – calibers. This year they're revisiting a tourbillon movement from 2008 in a 39mm rose gold case, but instead of their normal straight lugs and onion crown, the brand has decided to take a more contemporary approach.

The Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture hero shot

That approach, featuring applique hour markers and hand-polished golden hands standing out against an anthracite grey sun-brushed dial, allows the tourbillon to star as the main player (as most brands not named Patek would do). The tourbillon aperture is oversized, framed by a gold ring for what's known as FC's Heart Beat opening, in the middle of which you'll find the brand's minute tourbillon with a connected hand that ticks out the seconds.

Heart Beat opening of Frederique Constant Tourbillon

The movement finishing includes a mix of chamfering, circular graining, flanks drawing, and mirror polishing decorations that you can see through the display caseback. You also get a silicon escapement wheel and anchor and a 38-hour power reserve. Once released in April 2023, the new Classic Tourbillon Manufacture will cost $27,595.

What We Think

I'm just a few hours off landing back at home from Watches & Wonders 2023, running on two hours of sleep in the last 36, and I'm still not even close to caught up on all the new releases of the trade show. The overwhelming number of brands and releases in the four days show is almost a shame because there's no way to see it all. But between the giant booths from the likes of Rolex and Patek, there are smaller exhibitions from brands like Frederique Constant who quietly, diligently are making great watches that range from value propositions to high-complication marvels. Sometimes, like in this case, you get both.

Frederique Constant had one booth I went out of my way to visit without an appointment and there were an impressive number of people milling around, a testament to the fact that they've got everything from integrated steel sport watches for just over $2,000 up to some perpetual calendars and more. While I didn't have time to photograph the new watch, I did take a close look and it's easy to see why they have a large number of fans that tout the brand's value proposition status.

The Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture construction

A tourbillon in an 18k rose gold case for $27,595 isn't exactly affordable for most people, especially ones gravitating toward Frederique Constant, but it is affordable compared to pretty much any other tourbillon on the market. The case wears great on the wrist and the contrast and warmth of the hour markers and dial play off each other well.

How is FC able to keep prices down while developing so many calibers? I'm not sure, but I imagine it's partially due to their choices of when not to develop a new caliber. Rolling into W&W with only a few releases, the centerpiece of which uses a 15-year-old movement is a pretty confident move. It says "we've done something good that we believe our customers will like, and found other ways to make it better" (i.e. the case). The brand is also making another strong statement by doing a limited edition of 150, so I'm sure they feel confident there's plenty of demand. And trust me when I say, Frederique Constant is just getting started.

The Basics

Brand: Frederique Constant
Model: Classic Tourbillon Manufacture
Reference Number: FC-980G3H9

Diameter: 39 mm
Thickness: 10.99 mm
Case Material: 18K rose gold
Dial Color: Grey dial with sunray finishing
Indexes: Applied diamond cut indexes
Lume: No
Water Resistance: 30m
Strap/Bracelet: Dark brown alligator leather strap with matte finishing

The Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture movement

The Movement

Caliber: FC-980 in-house caliber
Functions: Hours, Minutes, 60 Seconds tourbillon
Power Reserve: 38-hour power reserve
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 bph
Jewels: 33 jewels
Additional Details: Chamfering, circular graining, flanks drawing, mirror polishing decorations. Silicon escapement wheel and anchor