Weekend Edition QPs If You're Nasty – Perpetual Calendars Are The Complication Of The Day, Month, And Year

Some, like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, keep this traditional complication at the very core of their identity (though to varvious levels of production and iteration), while others offer the complication as a flagship product to highlight their evolving watchmaking abilities. 

Patek Philippe was the first to create a perpetual calendar wristwatch following a commission in 1925 from a collector named Thomas Emery, and they used a movement that had been created in 1889 for a ladies' pendant watch design. Breguet followed in 1929 with the No. 2516 "The Dollfus" and, perhaps unsurprisingly given the brand's endless work in movement development, Jaeger-LeCoultre launched their first perpetual calendar in 1937. 

For collectors, many see the perpetual calendar to be among the most special and appealing complications on offer, and, if you take a few minutes to watch our latest Talking Watches with Patrick Getreide and his OAK collection, you'll see that many of the most coveted Pateks around also happen to be QPs (if you've got a love for 2499s and 1518s, that link is for you). 

The appeal of a perpetual calendar is not specific to this one complication but perhaps best supported by the mix of capability, design, and a dash of mid-century romance. At the heart, a QP will always be about the movement, and the rest essentially comes down to taste and execution. For a closer look at the story behind how Vacheron Constantin supports their QP and others with a historic caliber, don't skip this story from Jack.

If you'd like to explore the execution and design side of the QP story, be sure to dig into myriad expressions like MB&F's Legacy Machine Perpetual Calendar, the minimalist Ochs Und Junior Perpetual Calendar, the stealthy Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar, and Royal Oak examples that blend old-world skeletonization with a modern material like ceramic. 

For a complication so closely tied with high-end and traditional watchmaking, perpetual calendars quite literally come in all shapes and sizes. Speaking personally, I cannot wait to one day own a perpetual calendar watch (that is, aside from my G-Shocks and Citizen Eco-Drives), but until then, check out the featured stories below for a deep dive on Patek's lineage of perpetual calendars, a look at the early (and coolest) Royal Oak QPs, the fascinating backstory of the Patek 3448 "Senza Luna," Jack's Week On The Wrist with a modern Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar, and a look at Bulgari's creation of a special one-off QP for Only Watch.

Leap years never stood a chance. 

Reference Points: Understanding The Entire Lineage Of Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronographs

A big meaty Ben deep dive is always a good place to start and if you're curious about the history and development of Patek Philippe's perpetual calendars (hint: you should be) this Reference Points will get you up-to-speed in no time. 

In-Depth: The Early Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

It's my Weekend Edition and I'll pick my own stories if I want to. Speaking from the heart, this is a story I am very proud of and it looks at one of my all-time grails, the earliest generations of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar while also looking at the brand's earliest work with QPs. From very early and incredibly rare 5517s to solid gold 25554BAs (with a white dial!), I don't think the Royal Oak has ever been cooler. 

In-Depth: The Curious Case Of The Patek Philippe Reference 3448 'Senza Luna'

If you're new to HODINKEE, you may have missed this wonderful story from Cara about the strange and intriguing world of the Patek Philippe 3448 "Senza Luna."  Don't skip this one; like the watch, it's a very rare treat. 

A Week On The Wrist: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar In Pink Gold

In the modern marketplace for QPs, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin is among my absolute faves. Subtle, beautifully made, and available in several iterations (each with quick-change straps/bracelets), the Overseas Perpetual Calendar is a treat and Jack does a lovely job of breaking down its lineage, watchmaking acumen, and market position.  

How They Made It: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Tantalum For Only Watch

For a decidedly new-world take on the perpetual calendar, jump into this story from Jack that takes a micro look at a special one-off version of an already very special QP – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar. At just 5.8mm thick, this Octo packs generations of watchmaking know-how into a relatively tiny and decidedly modern package.