Introducing The Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02

In 2019, Audemars Piguet launched the Code 11.59 collection, which was positioned as an alternative to the Royal Oak (after discontinuing the Jules Audemars and Millenary lines over the years prior). A year later came the [RE]Master01, a new chronograph inspired by a 1940s watch made by Audemars Piguet, limited to 500 pieces. With the new release, it seemed like AP would lean into its heritage in a way that would show the brand to be what vintage collectors already know – not just "The Royal Oak Company." Then—*crickets*. The "collection," as it was, was not even listed on the brand's "collections" landing page.  Four years later, we have a new [RE]Master, and it's certainly very different from the first. 

Shaped watches are all the rage (again). The [RE]Master02 is proof in the metal, inspired by a rare reference from AP, the ref. 5159BA with a 27.5mm diameter yellow gold case produced in only 7 pieces. The original was part of an effort from 1959 to 1963 where AP made a very small number of asymmetrical cases – 30 in total.

The new watch is made of AP's Sand Gold and is substantially larger – 41mm by 9.7mm thick with 30m of water resistance. We first saw that material in the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked earlier this year. The dial is no longer a flat, plain surface but rather done in the iconic "Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50" of the Jumbo Royal Oak. That color is done with Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD) before the dial is segmented into twelve different triangles, each decorated with a linear satin finish and separated by lines of sand gold that act as hour markers and match the sand gold hands. The case is brushed and sharply faceted, in what AP calls a "tribute to Brutalism." The crystal is cut to follow the shape of the case, giving a bit of distortion when viewed from an angle, which is a part of the charm.

Inside is the automatic Caliber 7129, based on the 7121 launched in 2022 on the Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin models. The movement measures only 2.8mm thick, which means most of the thickness of the watch is for the effect of its shape. The movement gives about 52 hours of power reserve. Pricing for the [RE]Master02 has been set at $47,200, and the watch will only be available in a 250-piece limited edition – half the number of the [RE]Master01.

If you had asked me earlier this year which watch AP would do next for a [RE]Master, it might have been a while before I landed on this watch. Yes, shaped watches are all the rage now – so much so that the Crash has become "pedestrian" in the words of at least one prominent voice whose name rhymes with Ben Clymer. We even recently saw a brand new brand – Toledano & Chan – launch with an architectural-inspired watch. 

But with a deep history to draw from (including watches like the John Schaeffer, "Ciocolatones", "Disco Volantes," and awesome calendar chronographs with multi-color dials, there were plenty of options for Audemars Piguet. This, however, is probably the boldest (and, in that way, smartest) option to pick up the [RE]Master line. I won't even get into arguing about the "brutalist" terminology, but really, there's no time like the present to get on the "shaped-watch train."

When I was in Milan, the brand showed this watch to clients, though I didn't see it myself. I had heard from a few people that the 41mm case of the new [RE]Master02 is quite large. There's something to be said for the fact that these older, shaped watches are so successful because their boldness comes from design and elegance and not size. But that said, I'm very intrigued to finally see it in person.

It's encouraging to see the use of sand gold so quickly after unveiling the first product with the material. Sure, this is a 250-piece limited edition, but at least the brand isn't completely keeping the new metal behind a lock and key to be seen once every decade. My hope is that AP will start making the [RE]Master collection a priority again. Four years was too long to wait between releases. Despite the fact that the Code 11.59 line is beginning to hit its stride and acknowledging that technically, there are three separate collections of Royal Oaks (the mainline, Offshore, and Concept), it would be great to see AP be a brand with three core pillars to stand on. They've certainly got the back catalog to prove it's possible.

Brand: Audemars Piguet
Model: [RE]Master02
Reference Number: 15240SG.OO.A347CR.01

Diameter: 41mm
Thickness: 9.7mm
Case Material: Sand gold
Dial Color: Segmented "Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50" dial with linear satin finishing and sand gold lines
Indexes: Sand gold radial lines for the hours
Lume: None
Water Resistance: 30m
Strap/Bracelet: Alligator leather strap in contrasting shades of blue with matt finishing and 18-carat sand gold pin buckle.

Caliber: Calibre 7129
Functions: Hours and minutes
Diameter: 29.6mm
Thickness: 2.8mm
Power Reserve: 52 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour
Jewels: 31
Chronometer Certified: No

Price: $47,200
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: Yes, 250 pieces

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