Introducing A. Lange & Söhne Makes The First Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon In Honeygold – And It's A 'Lumen' (Live Pics)

This year is a big one for A. Lange & Söhne. It's the 30th anniversary of the brand and 25th anniversary of the Datograph. While I'm sure the brand has more in store this year, the Datograph is getting its moment today, thanks in part to the introduction of the new Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Lumen in Honeygold, a watch that combines two of the most important "treats" that Lange ever has for its collectors. In typical Lange style, the watch is stunning.

There's a lot of history packed in this one release, the flagship Datograph in the Lange lineup. Besides celebrating the 25th anniversary of the Datograph, this is the sixth "Lumen" release from the brand since 2010 (technically, the first was called "Luminous," but you get the drift) and the 14th Lange in Honeygold. If you're unfamiliar with Honeygold, this is the brand's patented mix of gold treatment that is harder than standard 18k and has a unique glossiness and warm tone that sits between yellow and rose gold – sort of the best of both worlds. The case measures 41.5mm by 14.6mm thick, the same as past releases of the model, with a raised flange on the caseback, giving the look and feel of a thinner midcase.

Meanwhile, the "Lumen" name is pretty self-explanatory but no less eye-catching. Through the smokey, coated sapphire crystal dial, you can see the revamped dial-side, hand-finished L952.4 movement that powers the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon, a modified version of the original L952.2 that powered the first iteration. Various parts of that coated crystal glow under UV exposure, as do the subdials at 4 o'clock and 8 o'clock that convey all the pertinent parts of the perpetual calendar that gives the watch its "Perpetual" monicker. The left subdial shows the running seconds, day of the week, and day/night indicator. The chronograph minutes counter, month, and leap year indicators are on the right. And as the "king" of the Datograph lineup, there's still the 12 o'clock big date display. All those subdials glow in the dark, plus the chronograph hand, printed tachymeter, and the luminous moonphase. Of course, you can still see the rest of the movement, including the tourbillon cage, through the sapphire caseback.

The new Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen is limited to 50 numbered pieces and price is on request but two sources have told me its €620,000 (VAT included).

If you had asked me to guess how Lange would celebrate the 25th anniversary of the Datograph, this wouldn't have been particularly high on my list. I would have thought there might be a brand new Datograph movement for the moment. But looking at the new Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lume, I'm not complaining. I distinctly remember the first time I saw a Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon. It's an experience that really sticks with you. 

The L952.2 (and now L952.4) chronograph movements are transcendent examples of the best of what is possible when you combine traditional watch architecture and aesthetics with the most advanced machining technology, all done with some of the best hand finishing on the market. The L952.4 caliber movement has 45 fewer parts than the original L952.2 (684 total), which could at least in part be attributed to the removal of the power reserve indicator on the dial design. The dial design is naturally a bit more cluttered than other perpetual calendars, where brands often use three subdials and a moonphase to convey all the information that Lange has put in the watch's nested subdials. But the benefit is that the brand preserves the "Datograph" look with a big date at 12 o'clock on the dial. 

My experience with Lange's "Lumen" models is so few and far between I think I've only seen one in person before today (only 950 have been made in the last 14 years). They have caught so much attention for their design that you now even have brands like Patek trying to capitalize on the smoked sapphire look with the ref. 5316/50P. The same could be said for the Honeygold material that's so rare it's become a point of pride for collectors to have a watch, in that case metal. Only 1,585 watches have been made in the material since 2010. Audemars Piguet's recent release of a "Sand Gold" Royal Oak immediately elicited comparisons with Lange's softer gold tones. The fact that two of the biggest brands are giving Lange the "sincerest form of flattery" shows you how special this release is, bringing all parts together.

As for the rest of my thoughts (and images) I'll save those for a later date, because this watch certainly deserves some quality time for a Hands-On review.

Brand: A. Lange & Söhne
Model: Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold "Lumen"
Reference Number: 740.055FE

Diameter: 41.5mm
Thickness: 14.6mm
Case Material: 18k Honeygold
Dial Color: Sapphire crystal, coated
Indexes: Applied faceted hour indexes, luminous printed tachymeter, luminous subdials and date discs
Lume: A lot of it
Water Resistance: Not listed, potentially 30m like past models
Strap/Bracelet: Hand-stitched alligator leather in dark brown with eployant buckle in 18-carat HONEYGOLD® and 18-carat white gold

Caliber: L952.4
Functions: Time indicated in hours, minutes, and subsidiary seconds; tourbillon with stop seconds; flyback chronograph with precisely jumping minute counter; tachymeter scale; perpetual calendar with outsize date, day of week, month, leap year; day/night indicator; moonphase display
Diameter: 32.6mm
Thickness: 9.0mm
Power Reserve: 50 hours
Winding: Manually wound
Frequency: 18,000 bph
Jewels: 57, including one diamond endstone
Chronometer Certified: No
Additional Details: Lever escapement; movement precision-adjusted in five positions; plates and bridges made of untreated German silver; decorated and assembled by hand

Price: $620,000
Availability: Now
Limited Edition: Yes, 50 numbered pieces

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