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Lead illustration of the Sylvain Pinaud Origine by Andy Gottschalk.
As far as I'm concerned, the most exciting part of the horological landscape is the world of independent watchmaking. It's the most diverse and compelling part of this hobby and industry. It's about individuals instead of corporations, personalities instead of press releases, and the most important attribute is almost always the skill of the craftsperson.
But what does "independent watchmaking" even mean, exactly? Know-it-alls are often quick to point out that, yes, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and even Rolex are all technically "independent" as well, as none of those companies answer to shareholders. From my perspective, independent watchmaking, today, is all about a more holistic approach to horology, leading talented watchmakers and engineers back to the bench.
An independent watch company is one that is often under first-generation leadership, potentially under the stewardship of a watchmaker or entrepreneur whose name can be frequently found on the dial of their creations. An independent watchmaking operation is one that prioritizes a small-scale approach – annual production may be in the single digits, the dozens, the hundreds, or the low five figures, but there's always an inherent scarcity to any specific watch release simply due to the level of handcraft and the smaller number of staff involved in its development and production, compared to a major-label brand or one that's owned by a conglomerate. Independent watchmaking is often where the true innovation in our industry takes place – in design, in mechanics, in craftsmanship, and in communication. Nothing is created by committee and every decision involves significant risk.
If you're tired of reading and hearing about the same brands and watches all day, every day, then it's time to fall down the rabbit hole of independent watchmaking and explore some of the phenomenal creativity that's currently on display. And now is as good a time as ever – in 2022, independent watchmaking exploded in a way that most individuals involved in the space never thought possible.
More consumers are interested in watches than ever before, which means there are more potential collectors to support the creatives and craftsmen behind each one of these brands. And that, to me, simply means that indie watchmaking is more exciting right now than it's ever been this century – you just need to know where to look. You can start here.
I've put together a brief guide to some of the best, the most interesting, and the most exciting watches to come from this "independent" sphere in 2022. Some of these watches you may know, others you may have never heard of, but they're all special – and if I missed your favorite indie hit of the year, make sure to let me know in the comments.
The Best Of The Best
The Big Winner: I have to start at the top, right? There was no watch this year that I enjoyed learning and writing about more than MB&F's first chronograph. But you don't have to believe me – the LM Sequential EVO is fresh off winning the top prize at the annual GPHG industry awards ceremony last month.
What makes the watch so unique is that it actually contains two independent chronograph complications and displays, controlled via separate twin pushers located on both sides of the case, with both mechanisms integrated into a single movement and driven by a single regulating organ. The result of pairing the two separate chronographs into one watch enables all sorts of additional timing functionality. You might be thinking right now, "Huh, well that makes a lot of sense. Why hasn't anyone else done it before?" Well, that's only because it's extremely, absurdly difficult to make. It only took Stephen McDonnell, the brilliant watchmaker out of Northern Ireland that MB&F tapped for the movement's development, more than four years to make the concept behind the Sequential Chronograph a reality. And the result has to be seen to be believed – you can read our previous in-depth coverage here and here.
No Gröning Allowed: All aboard the chronograph train! MB&F wasn't the only indie to drop an exceptional new chronograph this year. The wonderfully named Grönograaf by the Grönefeld brothers, based out of the Netherlands, also happened to be the company's inaugural attempt at a chronograph. And as with everything Grönefeld does, there are plenty of mechanical elements to appreciate, especially the use of a centrifugal governor that's visible through the dial. And that movement? Let's just say it's a stone-cold stunner.
Young (Time-Only) Guns: A trio of watches from three young independent makers were stuck in my head all year long, each one offering a completely individual and distinctive approach to the simplest ideal in horology: the time-only watch. Rexhep Rexhepi's Chronomètre Contemporain II takes everything that made the original, award-winning Chronomètre Contemporain so special and elevates it even further with a re-engineered movement featuring deadbeat seconds and a handmade case by Jean-Pierre Hagmann. The Raúl Pagès Régulateur à Détente RP1, on the other hand, was released at the very beginning of the year. I know I wasn't alone in revisiting pictures of this colorful regulator a few times every month. And finally, the newest face here is Sylvain Pinaud, who released his second watch ever this year with the Origine. It pretty quickly monopolized all discussion among the press and collectors that attended the AHCI exhibition that took place in Geneva this year, simultaneously with Watches & Wonders.
Moser's Magic Touch: I was particularly impressed with H. Moser & Cie.'s cumulative releases throughout 2022. The Schaffhausen-based company seemed to have a genuinely excellent new product every quarter that kept people engaged and talking – and it was always about the quality of the watch, never about a marketing trick or gimmick. Go ahead, take a look at the Cylindrical Tourbillon, the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack in red gold, or even their collaboration with the streetwear brand Undefeated.
Quick Hits: Vianney Halter had a true mic-drop moment this spring after releasing his La Resonance – a brand-new take on the resonance phenomenon that utilizes an approach that only Halter could have dreamt up in his horological laboratory in the Swiss countryside. Urwerk celebrated its 25th anniversary with an inspired reimagining of its trademark wandering hours and satellite display (Star Trek, anyone?).
Kari Voutilainen and De Bethune both hit the 20-year mark for their respective businesses in 2022. Voutilainen celebrated with a unique-piece Vingt-8, while De Bethune did something completely unexpected and introduced the Sensoriel Chronometry Project, which is a whole new approach to bespoke watchmaking that offers owners of the new DB28GS Grand Bleu the chance to receive tailored chronometric adjustments to their watch that will best match their personal lifestyle. It's also worth shouting out once more that F.P. Journe dropped a new Vagabondage this year – that's really not something that happens too often.
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New And Noteworthy
A Rising Star: A number of new faces either officially entered the watch business or really hit their stride this year. Trilobe, a young, hands-free brand the Hodinkee team collectively fell in love with during Watches & Wonders (so much so that Trilobe ended up in the Hodinkee Shop, not long after), was one of the latter. The France-based team also recently clinched the highly contested Petite Aiguille prize at the GPHG for the new Nuit Fantastique Dune.
From Paris To Los Angeles: I found the latest version of Théo Auffret's tourbillon, the Tourbillon Grand Sport, to be particularly impressive. The 27-year-old Parisian has maintained the traditional French watchmaking style (ahem, Breguet-adjacent), but modernized it in a very thoughtful manner that speaks volumes to both his respect for his ancestors and his future as a watchmaker in the 21st century. And then at a vastly different price point, I also think it's worth revisiting our coverage of the debut creations of Havid Nagan, a Los Angeles-based operation that debuted this year and is led by founder Aren Bazerkanian. He has big plans for the future.
It's Time To Die – No Really: This year, the watchmaking wizard Dominique Renaud (of Renaud & Papi fame) teamed up with a young watchmaker named Julien Tixier and Dr. Benoît Dubuis, the president of a nonprofit foundation known as Inartis that's dedicated to supporting innovation in technology and life science. The threesome ended up creating a timepiece called the Tempus Fugit – a wristwatch that might actually be able to predict the date of your death.
When purchasing the watch (it costs 380,000 euros), owners are required to submit quite a bit of personal information, including but not limited to DNA samples, family history, and personal habits. Using that data, a life expectancy projection can then be made by the scientists and doctors at the Inartis Foundation. Then, based on that projection, the owner's watch is individually and uniquely configured with a personalized secular perpetual calendar that includes a countdown to their proposed death date. I mean, hey, what could be handier than tracking a power reserve of your own life?
Smells Like Team Spirit: The Lyrique Étude N°1, alternatively, was born completely out of the collaborative spirit of a group of dedicated watch collectors and enthusiasts from around the world. Fifty-one collectors, located in 16 countries, across five continents, teamed up to create a watch fit to their specifications, using many of the best individual suppliers the Swiss industry has to offer.
Agenhor developed a fascinating new manual-wind movement for the watch. Voutilainen & Cattin worked on a 38mm × 9.75mm stainless steel case with beautiful, smooth, teardrop lugs. Fiedler created a customized Observatoire-style handset, and Metalem produced the lacquer dial. Seventy total pieces were produced, and the watch was priced under CHF 10,000. I find the Lyrique Étude N°1 to be beautiful (although I admittedly have yet to handle it), and I think the concept behind its creation is a wonderful example of how 21st-century collectors and watch lovers are able to come together to create something truly special. I can't imagine something of this scale and quality happening five to 10 years ago.
Comeback Season: We also welcomed back a few brands and individuals this year that had briefly closed their doors or stepped away from the limelight, either during or before the COVID-19 pandemic. The hydro-horology pioneers at HYT have made an impressive return, now under the leadership of Davide Cerrato, formerly of Tudor and Montblanc.
Hautlence, the oddball corporate sibling of H. Moser, was officially awakened from a brief dormancy, during the Geneva Watch Days showcase in August. And Gerd-Rüdiger Lang, the octogenarian '80s horological icon who founded, led, and then eventually sold Chronoswiss, returned in a big way this summer with the debut of Lang 1943, a new watch brand he's helping to guide alongside an entrepreneur by the name of Georg Bartkowiak.
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News Worth Knowing, And Other Underrated Releases
Greubel Grows Up: There are always stories that we miss or that slip under the radar – there's only so much time in any given year. One of the big bits of news I was disappointed I wasn't able to fully tackle in 2022 was an in-depth look at how Greubel Forsey has quietly evolved its strategy with an eye toward stability and growth. One of the big moves they made on the business side of things this year, for instance, was buying back a 20 percent stake in the company from Richemont, who had purchased the shares in 2006. As of 2022, the Greubel Forsey company is 100 percent in the hands and ownership of founders Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey, as well as the recently appointed CEO, Antonio Calce.
Earlier this fall, I was able to sit with Calce for over an hour as he outlined the company's game plan over the next few years. To make a long story short, they're hiring in a major way and making plans for a new building at the company's manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds, all in order to meet a higher annual production quota without lowering their industry-leading quality standards. The average retail price point of the watches will drop slightly (but don't you worry, it's still well into the six figures), and Greubel's approach to retail will change entirely (meaning fewer AD doors and the introduction of brand boutiques in key markets). There will also be an updated visual aesthetic to the watches that will gradually make its way through the brand's catalog. It's a lot to take in, but Calce clearly has a plan – you can see it start to take shape in some of Greubel Forsey's 2022 releases, including the Double Balancier Convexe, the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture, and the GMT Balancier Convexe.
A Very British Collaboration: Garrick Watch Company and Fears are two of the most interesting British brands working today. Fears is run by a dapper young gentleman named Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, who restarted his family's watchmaking business in 2016 after it had been forced to shutter its doors in 1976. Garrick, on the other hand, was born in 2014 and is today one of the few companies based in the United Kingdom that's pursuing true handcrafted horology.
The two companies collaborated earlier this year on a limited-production watch that features aesthetic touches inspired by Fears' long history and a proprietary Garrick manual-wind movement with a large free-sprung balance wheel that's visible from the dial side and made with a Garrick-exclusive alloy called Sircumet. At around $20,000 USD, it sure as hell ain't cheap – but when the alternatives for a handmade British watch are Roger Smith and Charles Frodsham, the Fears × Garrick collaboration is a pretty compelling alternative.
The Cool And Complicated: Independent watchmakers love complications. I think it's part of being able to freely experiment with mechanics and design, and having no penny-pinching shareholders watching over their shoulders, restricting their time, energy, and expenses. Here are a few of my favorite complicated indie watches of the year that we unfortunately missed the boat on covering on the site.
The Ming 37.04 is a super cool monopusher chronograph that commemorates the fifth anniversary of everyone's favorite Malaysia-based brand. And it's not just any monopusher chronograph – the movement inside is actually a caliber from the 1990s that Denis Flageollet (of De Bethune) and François-Paul Journe had worked on for Cartier before they each went off to start their own businesses.
Habring² also dropped a number of great releases this year, but perhaps the best one was the Chrono Felix Perpetual, a chronograph-perpetual calendar combination in a lovely 38.5mm case, that was created in collaboration with Massena Lab. The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT is certainly worthy of a shout-out in this section, as well. And finally, Laurent Ferrier recently announced a very attractive new edition of the Classic Traveller with a blue meteorite dial that's exclusive to the North American market. The Traveller isn't a new complication or design (we even put our own spin on it at one point), but this latest example sure is beautiful.
The Weird And Wonderful: Ah, my favorite section. I love the weird stuff. I mean, when you look at a watch like the new-for-2022 Ressence Type 8C, aren't the first two words that come to your mind "cool" and "weird"? And what about Armin Strom's experiment with the date complication on the new Orbit – isn't it just wild? Who could have thought of that?
And our final weirdo independent watch of the day is Moritz Grossmann's excellent collaboration with the photographer Atom Moore that debuted in late October. The New York-based photographer (and occasional Hodinkee contributor) used the German watchmaker's 37mm case and "silver-plated by friction" dial as a starting point before bringing in his "exploding atom" pattern, which brings the dial to life and adds a hint of welcome modernity to the old-school Teutonic watchmaking on display. Weird is good. And independent watchmaking is always great.
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