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Quick Take
There is something to be appreciated in the classics, in drawing inspiration from that which came before. In that spirit, Girard-Perregaux has released its new 1966 Infinity Edition. This is a relatively thin, 40mm dress watch, in stainless steel, with a dial fashioned from polished black onyx. The brand describes the design of the dial as invoking "the depth of the universe and its infinite mystery," which, honestly, sounds pretty cool. In terms of styling, the 1966 Infinity Edition is meant to capture the essence of a black-tie soirée. That being the case, a watch like this should have a tuxedo thrown into the purchase just for kicks.
Initial Thoughts
The 1966 Infinity Edition is being released in both a 30mm and 40mm sizing. As mentioned, the dial is made from black onyx and fashioned to fit inside the circular shape of the case. The process of shaping the onyx takes 15 operations over a matter of months. I imagine (having not seen the watch in the metal) that this is a dial far better appreciated in person – as most are. There is a certain understated vintage aesthetic to this watch that manifests itself in the minimal dial design, the thin markers, and the serif font for the word Automatic, with the "flat A."
At 40mm, this probably hits the ceiling of acceptable sizing for most when it comes to a dress watch. Adding to its black-tie suitability is its relative thinness at 8.9mm. The dial features rhodium-plated leaf-style hands, pink-gold markers, and a date complication at three o'clock. Now, I know what you're thinking: A dress watch should not have a date complication – it should not even have a seconds hand. Just as I noted in our recent Editors' Picks of our favorite dress watches from this year, that is more a matter of personal preference than a steadfast rule. On the positive side, the date window is set against a black background and pushed more towards the center portion of the dial, allowing for the preservation of symmetry amongst the markers. It's really quite a stealthy complication in that way.
At CHF 9,100, you could get away with slotting this into value proposition territory (as far as dress watches are concerned). Again, one would need to experience the watch in the metal before making such a determination. That notwithstanding, what you have here is a brand with watchmaking heritage creating a simple and effective vintage-inspired dress watch for modern day. The back of the watch features a display caseback allowing clear view of the movement, and a pink-gold oscillating weight specific to this limited edition. The Girard-Perregaux 1966 Infinity Edition comes fitted on a dark leather strap with contrasting stitching. The watch is limited to 188 pieces and will be available only on Mr. Porter.
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The Basics
Brand: Girard-Perregaux
Model: 1966 Infinity Edition 40mm
Reference Number: 49555-11-632-BB60
Diameter: 40mm
Thickness: 8.9mm
Case Material: Stainless steel
Dial Color: Black
Indexes: Pink-gold markers
Lume: No
Water Resistance: 30m
Strap/Bracelet: Black alligator with black and pink-gold-colored stitching
The Movement
Caliber: GP03300-1402
Functions: Hours, minutes, central second, date
Diameter: 25.6mm
Thickness: 3.36mm
Power Reserve: 46 hours
Winding: Self-winding
Frequency: 4 Hz
Jewels: 27
Chronometer Certified: No
Pricing & Availability
Price: CHF 9,100
Availability: September 2020, only on MrPorter.com
Limited Edition: Yes, 188 pieces
For more, click here.
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