Editor — Anthony Traina

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This week, James and Danny join the show to talk about GMTs. The past few years have seen an increase in the popularity of the travel watch. It feels like hardly a week goes by without an exciting, often affordable, new GMT. So today, we're talking about the wide world of everyone's favorite travel complication. In part kick-started by the 2018 release of Tudor's Black Bay GMT, fans of travel watches have witnessed a mounting of arms. This was spurred even further by the 2022 introduction of the budget-minded Miyota 9075, a movement from the Citizen Group that features an independently adjustable local hour hand.\n\nAll of this has led to increased competition in the space and has made for a buyer's market that manages to offer an incredible amount of variety. James, Danny, and I talk about some of our favorite recent takes on the GMT, from smaller boutique brands up to larger marks like Tudor and Longines. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"vD2NxPAxUv8","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"5:20: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.morgangilbreath.com//" target=\"_blank\">Morgan Gilbreath</a>\n\n7:10: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://laviolettefoundation.org//" target=\"_blank\">LaViolette Foundation</a>\n\n11:45: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/awotw-seiko-prospex-spb381 /" target=\"_blank\">A Week on the Wrist: Seiko SBP381</a>\n\n12:30: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tudor-black-bay-gmt-review /" target=\"_blank\">A Week on the Wrist: Tudor Black Bay GMT</a>\n\n16:57: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bulova-wilton-gmt-miyota-9075/" target=\"_blank\">Bulova's New Wilton GMT Is a Game Changer</a> (the first watch to use the Miyota 9075)\n\n17:42: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-lorier-hydra-siii /" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: Lorier Hydra III</a>\n\n18:25: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://limited.hodinkee.com/mido-ocean-star-gmt-2022//" target=\"_blank\">Mido Ocean Star for Hodinkee Limited Edition</a>\n\n19:10: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/longines-zulu-time-limited-edition-for-hodinkee/" target=\"_blank\">Longines Zulu Time Limited Edition for Hodinkee</a>\n\n20:50: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-nodus-trailtrekker /" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: Nodus x Raven Trailtrekker</a>\n\n22:45: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/its-finally-here-seikos-new-affordable-gmt-is-a-force-to-be-reckoned-with/" target=\"\">A Week On The Wrist: Seiko's New Affordable GMT Is a Force To Be Reckoned With</a>\n\n23:50: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/from-rolex-to-holy-trinity-our-predictions-projections-and-wild-guesses-for-the-watch-world-in-2023/" target=\"_blank\">From Rolex to Holy Trinity: Our Predictions, Projections & Wild Guesses For The Watch World In 2023</a>\n\n28:15: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-arken-alterum-is-a-clever-titanium-travel-timer/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The Arken Alterum Is A Clever Titanium Travel Timer</a>\n\n30:25: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-longines-spirit-zulu-time-in-39mm&sa=D&source=docs&ust=1710948880184505&usg=AOvVaw3OQl3rUDATP6TiYSihyUi9\%22 target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: Longines Spirit Zulu Time in 39mm</a>\n\n31:33: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-longines-hydroconquest-gmt/" target=\"_blank\">The Longines Hydroconquest GMT</a>\n\n35:43: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/new-tudor-black-bay-gmt-watches-and-wonders-2023/" target=\"_blank\">Tudor Black Bay GMT with opaline dial</a>\n\n35:48: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tudor-black-bay-pro-2 /" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: Tudor Black Bay Pro</a>\n\n39:25: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-hamilton-khaki-field-expedition-makes-its-case-as-your-new-dollar1000-watch/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: The Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hodinkee Editors Talking About The Best GMT Watches of 2024","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":59,"slug":"hodinkee_radio","name":"HODINKEE Radio","description":"A weekly podcast hosted by James Stacey that features a chat between a collection of Hodinkee personalities (generally our own editors), focusing on noteworthy/popular topics and stories within the watch world. Unlike with the previous iteration of this show, Hodinkee Radio is no longer an interview show but rather functions more like a depth-adding panel discussion to support the editorial calendar and bring the audience into the sorts of conversations common among the editors.","sort_order":4,"created_at":"2018-07-10T13:23:42.305-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.468-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"cfb2fe94-2c49-4a0b-a5b8-0b0a1de2fdb8","container_id":13203,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/d015fe85-24a9-4220-a8e7-557b9ac97e34/H-Radio-Article-Hero-008.jpg","width":2880,"height":1680,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"best gmt watches 2024 hodinkee","created_at":"2024-03-26T16:11:16.549-04:00","updated_at":"2024-03-26T16:11:16.549-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/d015fe85-24a9-4220-a8e7-557b9ac97e34/H-Radio-Article-Hero-008.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-about-our-favorite-gmt-watches-from-tudor-longines-and-more","full_title":"HODINKEE Radio: Talking About Our Favorite GMT Watches From Tudor, Longines, And More","tags":["gmt","hodinkee-radio"]},{"id":13192,"slug":"a-new-sale-focusing-on-hidden-vintage-gems-is-here-so-lets-rank-them-all","column_slug":"auction_report","title":"A New Sale Focusing On Hidden Vintage Gems Is Here, So Let's Rank Them All","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-03-25T15:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-03-21T12:57:22.722-04:00","updated_at":"2024-03-26T08:59:44.410-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Sotheby's \"Rough Diamonds\" sale promotes the avant-garde – jewelry watches, offbeat designs, and a whole lot of diamonds – let's rank them all, from the Holy Grails to the Sore Thumb. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":13831,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Maybe 2024 is the year auctions start to have a little more fun. We talked about Sir Elton John's extravagant collection <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-tastes-trends-and-elton-johns-watch-collection/" target=\"_blank\">a few weeks ago</a>, and now Sotheby's is hosting a different kind of watch auction.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"On April 11, during Watches & Wonders week in Geneva, the first \"Rough Diamonds\" sale will feature 24 vintage watches that live up to the auction's title. There are diamonds, jewelry pieces, ring watches, a tiny Audemars Piguet in the shape of a car, and a whole lot more.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"People were getting a bit tired of modern watches, of sporty steel watches,\" says Manon Hagie, Sotheby's Sales Director and curator of the Rough Diamonds auction. She said the auction's goal is to focus on the underappreciated and the avant-garde, and at all prices: estimates range from $2,000 to $100,000. Rough Diamonds is being promoted in collaboration with Heist Out, an enigmatic young \"watch collective\" that also publishes a glossy magazine.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The sale showcases brands we all know – Patek, AP, Piaget, Cartier, and more – but the watches themselves are a bit more offbeat. At first, Hagie said it was hard to track down pieces for the sale.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"Most of the watches had to be sourced from different countries, a lot from private individuals,\" she said. Hagie said getting the first piece for the sale was the hardest, but once that came – from an older lady, she says – consignments started to pick up. It also helps when that first consignment turns out to be the headliner, a watch designed by Gilbert Albert paired with a matching necklace and ring.\n\nI do worry that this supposed trend toward outlandish jewelry watches is a passing fad; at the same time, some of these watches are so free and fun that I don't really care. \n\nSince it's a different type of auction, let's also do a different type of preview. I've ranked all 24 pieces, from the \"Holy Grails,\" to the odd \"Sore Thumb.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Holy Grails"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f1511718-ff47-4df2-a0bd-b6a097b80a87"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/rough-diamonds/reference-3290-a-likely-unique-set-designed-by/" target=\"_blank\">Unique Patek Philippe designed by Gilbert Albert, accompanied by matching ring and necklace</a>: Hagie said this piece was custom-made for an awards exhibit in 1960 when Albert was in charge of design at Patek Philippe. The bracelet has oddly shaped links that glisten with enamel and the odd pearl – it looks like the bottom of a fish tank for the world's most pampered school of fish. The matching necklace and ring put it over the top. Est. CHF 30–50,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/rough-diamonds/reference-5029-1-a-yellow-gold-and-stone-set/" target=\"_blank\">Chopard cuff watch with garnet dial</a>: Hagie told me that, on the particular day we spoke, this was her favorite lot of the bunch (but cautioned that it changes every day). It's by Spanish designer Augustin Julia-Plana and has a garnet stone dial, hand-engraved and gold-dusted Twizzlers serve dutifully as a bracelet, and those polished stone balls look like luxurious, delectable Cap'n Crunch Berries. Est. CHF 15–30,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Would Buy"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5a9354a6-7a8d-4019-b752-7eef70ec0b09"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/rough-diamonds/reference-12773-a18-a-yellow-gold-coral-and/" target=\"_blank\">Diamond-set Piaget with coral dial</a>: This gold Piaget from the daring hand of designer Jean-Claude Gueit feels wearable in some alternate universe where I use the word \"summer\" as a verb, as in, \"oh yes, I'm summering in St. Tropez this year.\" Est. CHF 5–10,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/rough-diamonds/baroque-an-asymmetrical-marquise-shaped-yellow/" target=\"_blank\">Audemars Piguet 'Baroque' with aqua crystal</a>: I can't help but love this deformed throat lozenge of a watch. Est. CHF 6–12,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/rough-diamonds/reference-7295-a-yellow-gold-and-citrine-set-ring/" target=\"_blank\">Jaeger-LeCoultre citrine-set ring watch</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/rough-diamonds/a-yellow-gold-bracelet-watch-circa-1961/" target=\"_blank\">Hermes bracelet watch with JLC caliber 101</a>: I love vintage JLC, and both of these '60s watches show why JLC's watches from this swinging era should get as much as attention as a certain brand that starts with C. Ests. CHF 3–5,000 and 2–4,000, respectively.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/rough-diamonds/cobra-royal-khanjar-reference-5587bc-a-white-gold/" target=\"_blank\">Audemars Piguet Cobra 'Royal Khanjar'</a>: When I spoke to Sebastian Vivas, AP's Heritage and Museum Director, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-audemars-piguet-watches-that-arent-the-royal-oak/" target=\"_blank\">earlier this year</a>, he mentioned the Cobra as an underappreciated design from the brand's archives. Gerald Genta designed it a year before the Royal Oak, and its mesh bracelet and slim case slither around the wrist. Est. CHF 50–100,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/rough-diamonds/bamboo-a-yellow-gold-and-diamond-set-bracelet/" target=\"_blank\">Audemars Piguet 'Bamboo</a>': Pure '80s, I love the AP Bamboo. A design from the hand of Jacqueline Dimier that deserves more credit. Est. CHF 8–12,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/rough-diamonds/reference-9523-d-2-a-white-gold-onyx-and-lapis/" target=\"_blank\">Hexagon Piaget with lapis dial</a>: Est. CHF 8–10,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Lucy In The Sky With Diamonds"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["693d76dc-65a4-4075-a0b6-ec47b6eb310c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/rough-diamonds/a-probably-unique-car-shaped-white-gold-diamond/" target=\"_blank\">Car-shaped Audemars Piguet with emeralds</a>: One of the sale's true oddities, this \"probably unique\" (one of my least favorite terms in auction parlance) was designed for AP by legendary designers Jacqueline Dimier and Emmanuel Guiet, supposedly for the kids of the Sultan of Brunei – if you're a Sultan's heir, Legos or Barbies just don't cut it, I suppose. An emerald-studded coupe pops open to reveal a mother-of-pearl dial, surely something any kid would appreciate. Est. CHF 40–80,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/rough-diamonds/a-white-gold-and-diamond-paved-bracelet-watch/" target=\"_blank\">White gold Audemars Piguet with diamonds, diamonds, and diamonds</a>: I'm not sure what Dimier and Guiet were on, but here's another extravagant mash-up from the most lavish duo this side of Cleopatra and Marc Anthony. At first I assumed it was quartz, but since this actually uses AP's ultra-thin manual caliber 2003, it gets promoted to \"L.S.D.\" (maybe that's what they were on?) Est. CHF 40–80,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Sore Thumb"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/rough-diamonds/tank-asymetrique-milan-edition-reference-4285-a/" target=\"_blank\">Cartier Tank Asymetrique 'Milan Edition'</a>: A limited edition, modern Cartier sticks out like a sore thumb in this catalog. Not sure why it's a \"Rough Diamond\"? Est. CHF 40–80,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Only If I Were Walking A Red Carpet"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f6a2ee51-f3c4-48dd-876e-d032cd6128eb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/rough-diamonds/reference-3633-1g-a-white-gold-wristwatch-with/" target=\"_blank\">White gold '70s Patek with onyx dial</a>: We're starting to get a bit more ostentatious. These audacious 1970s Patek designs make the Nautilus look downright restrained – and perhaps that's why it's so popular. It's not exactly my bag, but more props to you if <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-audacious-design-of-1970s-patek/" target=\"_blank\">it's yours</a>. Est. CHF 8–16,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/rough-diamonds/a-yellow-gold-wristwatch-with-tigers-eye-dial-and/" target=\"_blank\">Gold Vacheron Constantin with tiger's eye dial and Charles de Temple bracelet</a>: A retro-futuristic bracelet fit for a red carpet. Est. CHF 4–6,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/rough-diamonds/reference-2120-b-68-a-white-gold-lapis-lazuli-and/" target=\"_blank\">White gold Piaget cocktail watch</a>: An ameoba-shaped lapis opens up to reveal a tiny little dial. Est. CHF 8–12,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/rough-diamonds/reference-4239-1j-a-yellow-gold-bangle-watch-circa/" target=\"_blank\">Patek Philippe 4239 bangle</a>: Cool and cubic, kind of like a sober Picasso molded a gold bar into a bracelet. Est. 15–30,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/rough-diamonds/aton-reference-72709-760-a-yellow-gold-and-diamond/" target=\"_blank\">Vacheron Constantin 'Aton'</a>: Est. CHF 10–20,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Subdued Grandmother"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2d0eb4eb-11dc-4bb9-9bec-d69799d3cabc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/rough-diamonds/a-yellow-gold-shaped-wristwatch-circa-1980/" target=\"_blank\">Gold 1970s Boucheron</a>: Many of the watches in this Rough Diamonds sale have the vibe of a lavish grandmother or grandfather. The type of grandparent with tan, leathery skin who still smokes a pack a day while wearing one too many pieces of gold jewelry and is somehow healthy at the age of 93. But this category of watches, led by a gold Boucheron, are some of the more subdued of the selection. Here, a driver's watch meets an elongated Tank-style case. Est. CHF 5–10,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/rough-diamonds/reference-4183-1j-a-yellow-gold-bracelet-watch/" target=\"_blank\">Patek Philippe 4138 bracelet watch</a>: Est. CHF 10–15,000.\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/rough-diamonds/polo-day-date-reference-15562-c-701-a-yellow-gold/" target=\"_blank\">Piaget Polo Day Date with DLC coating</a>: Est. CHF 5–10,000.\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/rough-diamonds/reference-9212d76-a-yellow-gold-lapis-lazuli-and/" target=\"_blank\">Piaget bracelet watch with jade and lapis</a>: Est. CHF 20–30,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Doing Too Much!"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b9d7cc33-9471-4b37-bd46-298a42547641"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/rough-diamonds/beta-21-reference-14101-c16-a-heavy-yellow-gold/" target=\"_blank\">Piaget Beta 21</a>: Listen, I've sung the praises of Piaget a couple of times over the past couple of years, but the Beta 21 just isn't it for me. It's a chunky nugget of gold, but to me, there are better vintage Piaget designs that combine its expertise in ultra-thin and jewelry making. Est. CHF 10–20,000.\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/rough-diamonds/retailed-by-graff-reference-g-3359-4-a-platinum/" target=\"_blank\">Gerald Genta perpetual calendar</a>: Est. CHF 20–40,000.\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/rough-diamonds/reference-55585-a-white-gold-rolls-royce-car/" target=\"_blank\">Corum Rolls Royce watch</a>: I prefer my Rolls Royce with wheels and a sunroof. Est. CHF 5–10,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Sotheby's Rough Diamonds sale will be held April 11 at an underground wine cave in Geneva. An exhibit showcasing all of the watches will be open from April 8 until the sale during Geneva Watch Week. For more, visit the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/rough-diamonds?lotFilter=AllLots\%22 target=\"_blank\">Rough Diamonds auction</a>. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Sotheby's To Hold Rough Diamonds Watch Sale In April","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":36,"slug":"auction_report","name":"Auctions","description":"Explore the world of watch auctions, follow results on both vintage and modern collectibles, and track trends in collecting and spending.","sort_order":12,"created_at":"2016-12-02T12:53:02.270-05:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:39:59.777-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"f3ccc40d-6f3f-4a36-91e6-bfe0f5669d9f","container_id":13192,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/3d0d24d3-e0a3-4b6b-af1d-cc3b32babf5e/heroforroughdiamonds.jpg","width":3840,"height":2160,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"sotheby's rough diamonds sale","created_at":"2024-03-21T12:57:22.752-04:00","updated_at":"2024-03-22T10:08:16.152-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/3d0d24d3-e0a3-4b6b-af1d-cc3b32babf5e/heroforroughdiamonds.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-new-sale-focusing-on-hidden-vintage-gems-is-here-so-lets-rank-them-all","full_title":"Auctions: A New Sale Focusing On Hidden Vintage Gems Is Here, So Let's Rank Them All","tags":["sothebys","auctions"]},{"id":13183,"slug":"jonathan-ferrer-founder-of-brew-watches","column_slug":"hodinkee_radio","title":"Jonathan Ferrer, Founder Of Brew Watches","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-03-20T13:00:16.266-04:00","created_at":"2024-03-18T18:26:04.497-04:00","updated_at":"2024-03-20T13:01:41.110-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"An interview with the founder of Brew Watches; also, we announce the winner of our first Fantasy Draft of 2024. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":13239,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"It's Wednesday, which means it's another episode of Hodinkee Radio. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/hodinkee/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee's YouTube channel</a> (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/browse/hodinkee-radio/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee Radio</a> feed, so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find your podcasts (might we recommend <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"_blank\">Apple Podcasts</a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"\">,</a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/hodinkee-radio?refid=stpr\%22 target=\"_blank\">Stitcher</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://open.spotify.com/show/7uJbcyr8BrUU9uRb5W7tbd/" target=\"_blank\">Spotify</a>, or <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://tun.in/pi6n7/" target=\"_blank\">TuneIn</a>).","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"code":"<iframe height=\"200px\" width=\"100%\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\" seamless src=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://player.simplecast.com/884dfa76-fac6-4967-8af8-33e46d989803?dark=false\%22>%22},%22type%22:%22Block::Code%22},{%22data%22:{%22copy%22:%22

My guest today is Jonathan Ferrer, the founder of boutique brand Brew Watches. He founded Brew nine years ago after studying industrial design in college and short stints with other brands. Brew was inspired by his days spent sitting in coffee shops, working and designing – not just the coffee, but the culture of unwinding and relaxing.\n\nBut I'll be honest, that's not what attracted me to Brew. It's the retro but totally modern vibe he's managed to capture in all of his designs, most recently in the Metric. Jonathan and I talk about his journey as a designer and entrepreneur, the times he almost called it quits, and what's next for Brew. Along the way, we also chat about some of Jonathan's other passions: cars, coffee, and bikes.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0bf588a4-f459-4a37-946b-c4193e3974a1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Jonathan is a great designer and an even better guy – I hope you enjoy our chat.\n\nBefore our chat, I grabbed Danny and Mark to discuss the results of our fantasy watch draft. We announce a winner, talk about a few regrets, and kick around a few ideas for our next draft.\n\nThanks again to Accutron for supporting Hodinkee Radio. For more on the Accutron DNA Casino Collection, visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.accutronwatch.com//" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">accutronwatch.com</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"2DjZlw7mgYw","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"00:01: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.accutronwatch.com//" target=\"\">Accutronwatch.com</a>\n\n00:55: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/fantasy-watch-draft-2024/" target=\"_blank\">Fantasy Watch Draft 2024</a>\n\n7:45: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/brew-watch-co/" target=\"_blank\">One To Watch: Brew Watches</a>\n\n15:15: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://studio.hodinkee.com/movado-bold/" target=\"_blank\">Movado Bold</a>\n\n23:30: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/jonathanferrer/brew-watch-co-coffee-inspired/" target=\"_blank\">Brew Watches' original Kickstarter</a>\n\n36:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.brew-watches.com/products/retrograph-brew-technicolor/" target=\"_blank\">The Brew Retrograph</a>\n\n41:10: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-funk-and-fun-of-the-brew-metric/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: The Funk And Fun Of The Brew Metric</a>\n\n44:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.brew-watches.com/pages/retromatic-summer-look-book/" target=\"_blank\">Brew Retromatic</a>\n\n44:30: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-new-brew-metric-automatic/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The Brew Metric Automatic</a>\n\n45:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/C4tyIXar9aj/?hl=en\%22 target=\"_blank\">Timing an espresso shot in space</a>\n\n48:58: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/C1uPyrXrkrQ/?hl=en\%22 target=\"_blank\">John delivering watches on Christmas Eve in a Ferrari</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Interview with Jonathan Ferrer of Brew Watches","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":59,"slug":"hodinkee_radio","name":"HODINKEE Radio","description":"A weekly podcast hosted by James Stacey that features a chat between a collection of Hodinkee personalities (generally our own editors), focusing on noteworthy/popular topics and stories within the watch world. Unlike with the previous iteration of this show, Hodinkee Radio is no longer an interview show but rather functions more like a depth-adding panel discussion to support the editorial calendar and bring the audience into the sorts of conversations common among the editors.","sort_order":4,"created_at":"2018-07-10T13:23:42.305-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.468-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"d72124da-cb73-4a4b-a793-4182286928a0","container_id":13183,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/e33f139f-c74b-4dee-9c60-ca589c6a2991/H-Radio-Article-Hero-007.jpg","width":2880,"height":1680,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"interview jonathan ferrer of brew watches","created_at":"2024-03-18T18:26:04.548-04:00","updated_at":"2024-03-19T16:40:02.172-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/e33f139f-c74b-4dee-9c60-ca589c6a2991/H-Radio-Article-Hero-007.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jonathan-ferrer-founder-of-brew-watches","full_title":"HODINKEE Radio: Jonathan Ferrer, Founder Of Brew Watches","tags":["hodinkee-radio","brew"]},{"id":13167,"slug":"swiss-high-court-rules-on-lawsuit-between-rolex-and-customizer-artisans-de-geneve","column_slug":"in_depth","title":"Swiss High Court Rules On Lawsuit Between Rolex And Customizer Artisans de Geneve","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-03-19T15:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-03-12T09:46:02.412-04:00","updated_at":"2024-03-20T07:08:32.871-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"In a precedent-setting case, the Swiss Supreme Court says that Artisans de Geneve's personalization business can continue – but it's complicated. The lawsuit also raises a bigger question: Who can customize?","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":51909,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"In a precedent-setting case, Switzerland's highest court has ruled on a lawsuit between Rolex and watch customizer Artisans de Geneve. On January 19, the Swiss Federal Supreme Court ruled that AdG can personalize watches at the request and on behalf of the watch's owner and only for their personal – not commercial – use. However, the Court also ruled that AdG cannot market or advertise modified products with another brand's trademarks without consent, with limited exceptions.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Thus, the Court held that AdG's current business model, in which clients provide watches they already own to AdG to be customized, does not violate any laws. However, in light of its decision, the Court sent the issue of whether AdG's marketing and advertising violate applicable laws back to the lower court for reconsideration.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"It's the first time the Swiss Supreme Court has considered this issue of personalization and customization, and it could have long-term effects on Rolex, AdG, and the watch industry (and other industries) more broadly, so let's take a closer look.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"First, Some Background"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a6ddb3c9-73a2-4353-940e-7ec1352145da"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Rolex filed suit against AdG in December 2020 (note: the customizer's name is redacted in the Swiss Court decision, but other details make us pretty certain it's Artisans de Geneve). The story began before that, in February 2020, when Rolex secretly bought a modified Daytona from AdG for CHF 32,580. This included AdG supplying the original Daytona and customizing it. The customization also included removing and reapplying the Rolex, Oyster, and Cosmograph marks on the dial, as well as the crown logo. Before filing the lawsuit, Rolex notified AdG that it had acquired the customized Daytona and of possible trademark infringement.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"After Rolex's notification, AdG changed its business model so that it did not stock customized watches for purchase on its website, which is how Rolex had purchased the Daytona. AdG shifted to its current model, where clients must provide personal watches they already own to AdG for customization.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["837ebb94-cbbf-4fb5-b9ee-a80dac43f3ed"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Court also mentioned that accessing AdG's website is now only possible after the visitor accepts a warning that the company is \"an independent workshop offering watch personalization services at the request of customers for private use,\" and that it does not manufacture or sell watches, nor is it associated with any brand. Further, after AdG personalizes the watch, it offers the customer a new guarantee, specifying that the original manufacturer's warranty is void.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"In February 2023, a lower court sided with Rolex, prohibiting AdG from using any of Rolex's trademarks, including in advertising or in offering its customizations. AdG then appealed that decision.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"Rolex does not endorse any modification of its products by third parties – whoever they may be – outside its official network and approved service centers,\" Rolex said in response to Hodinkee's request for comment. \"All operations performed outside of its control result in voiding all guarantees offered by the brand. A watch modified in this way can, therefore, no longer be considered original, i.e., covered by the green Rolex seal. Once modified, such a watch can no longer receive the Rolex service delivered in the official network because it no longer meets the brand's qualitative standards in terms of precision, water resistance, automatic winding, autonomy, resistance to magnetism, reliability, and durability.\"\n\nArtisans de Geneve has not responded to Hodinkee's request for comment.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Two Separate Legal Issues"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fbee33fe-0b4c-4b36-9f0c-e2870fea9cb3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"First, it's important to remember that the purpose of a trademark is to distinguish a company's products or services from those of others on the market. Infringement can happen when there's a likelihood of consumer confusion, i.e., when you, the buyer, think you're buying a watch from Rolex, but it's actually from another company. According to the Swiss Supreme Court, the case presents two distinct legal issues:\n\n<ol> <li>\nPersonalization at the request and on behalf of an object's owner: This first type of activity occurs when a customer brings a watch to AdG, which AdG then customizes at the owner's request for their own private use. The Court held that this activity is \"lawful, to the extent that the service provider acts at the request of the object's owner and where the customized item is returned to its owner\" and not offered to the market.</li> <li>\nThe marketing, advertising, and offering for sale of customized products: This second type of activity involves the broader marketing, advertising, and offering for sale of customized watches for sale. The Court held that this type of activity is illegal unless authorization is granted by the owner of the brand (in this case, Rolex).</li>\n</ol>\n\nBefore considering these two legal issues as they relate to AdG and Rolex, the Court first clarifies that \"trademark exhaustion\" exists under Swiss law, also sometimes referred to as the first sale doctrine. This basically means that once a trademark holder has sold an item, it can't control what a buyer does with that product as long as it's for their own personal use. As we'll see, this becomes important because it implies that private use of a trademark is allowed. In other words, if a trademark is only being used to customize someone's own watch, it's not infringing on Rolex's rights because it's not being offered for sale, which might cause broader consumer confusion.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Deciding Rolex vs. Artisans de Geneve"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Issue 1: Personalization On Behalf of an Owner","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3565acb4-9682-470f-834b-4c8e81499faa"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"As noted, AdG changed its business model after Rolex notified it of potential infringement. According to the Court, activities under AdG's previous business model violated applicable laws. That's because it was advertising and offering for sale customized products on the market. But, under AdG's newer business model, the client must provide a watch they already own, and it then personalizes the watch at the client's request. No watches are offered for sale to the general public. The Court held that this revised model does not violate applicable laws, saying that this is even the case if AdG's customization involves removing and re-applying Rolex trademarks.\n\nHere's the Court's reasoning.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"When someone buys a watch, they can modify it however they want. In turn, nothing prevents the owner of a watch from instead having another company modify or customize their watch, as long as the customization is on behalf of the owner and only for their personal use, and not for commercial purposes. It's an extension of the trademark exhaustion principle – once Rolex has sold a watch, it's up to that individual what they do with their watch, as long as it's only for their personal use.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Court says that this doesn't undermine a trademark's purpose of distinguishing products and services on the market since the products aren't being offered commercially.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Issue 2: Advertising and Marketing","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"While the Court ruled that AdG's current business model is thus lawful, it was not ready to say the same about the second issue related to AdG's advertising and marketing.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"According to the Court, if a third party wishes to market a branded product that has been modified, they must get approval from the trademark's owner. For example, AdG would need Rolex's approval to advertise Rolex watches it has customized for clients since this would be a commercial use of its trademarks.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"However, this doesn't completely prevent AdG's use of Rolex trademarks. It can still use third-party marks for informative purposes, particularly in advertising, provided such use remains clearly linked to the advertised services.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"But, such use can still become a violation if it gives a false impression that there's a link between AdG and Rolex. In other words, AdG can't do anything that might create potential consumer confusion or otherwise exploit Rolex's reputation.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Sugar, We’re Going Down"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"While the Court held that AdG can customize watches for personal use, it remanded this second issue regarding its advertising and marketing back to the lower court for further consideration in light of its decision. The lower court will have to look at AdG's website and other advertising and marketing activities to decide whether or not they violate the parameters the court defined in its decision. The Supreme Court wrote that in its first decision, the lower court did not properly evaluate AdG's use of Rolex trademarks on its website and whether or not they clearly related to AdG's own service offerings. Further, it did not examine how Rolex, being a \"highly renowned brand,\" impacts the assessment of AdG's activities.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Wait, What’s a ‘Highly Renowned Brand?’"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"This isn't the main issue in the lawsuit, but the Supreme Court specifically noted that Rolex is an owner of a \"highly renowned brand,\" giving it certain special protections that you don't get if you're just any trademark holder. For example, brands with a \"high reputation\" might prevent the use of their marks in any other products, services, or even advertising, even if the products or services aren't competitive; e.g., a third party can't use Coca-Cola to sell bed sheets or Nike to sell perfume (both actual cases).\n\nIt's an interesting note—and congrats to Rolex—but it also has legal implications. The Supreme Court says the lower court will have to consider how Rolex's status as a \"highly renowned brand\" affects its legal decision when taking up the issue of AdG's advertising again.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Big Question: Who Can Personalize?"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3a2f0263-e7e1-4492-9527-6cd203c504a7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"While the lawsuit is between Rolex and AdG, the Swiss Supreme Court says that it has never ruled on the issues of customization for personal use raised by this case. But it's an important issue, not just in the watch industry.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"The growing importance of personalization of branded items is also reflected in the emergence of new conflicts dividing brand owners from companies modifying goods bearing the original brand of third parties,\" the Court writes.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["dd425981-d52e-42b7-a8c2-6d4139b95a87"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"This brings us back to Rolex and AdG. If you head to Rolex's website, you'll already be given the option to \"configure\" a watch. For example, head to the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rolex.com/en-us/watches/datejust/" target=\"_blank\">Datejust page</a>, and you're not given a catalog of product offerings. Instead, you're asked to configure your own Datejust. You start by choosing the size (31, 36, or 41mm), then the metal, bezel, bracelet, and dial. For the Datejust, this quickly adds up to hundreds of options. While you and I might know this is just a different way of presenting Rolex's static SKUs to an average consumer, it can start to feel like something different: personalization. It's easy to imagine a future in which Rolex offers true personalization, the type of thing AdG provides to its clients. In fact, head over to your local Rolex AD, and they already have real customization options, such as day or date wheels in different languages.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0b5e488c-e95b-4069-9a36-54f6f2a2941d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"If this is the direction Rolex is headed, AdG's personalization business starts to feel even more competitive. And we've seen Rolex use lawsuits to shut down customizers before. A few years ago, it successfully stopped American company Le Californienne from customizing and re-selling brightly colored vintage Datejusts and Day-Date dials. That lawsuit may have even hinted at Rolex's product roadmap, as just a couple of years after that case, it released its brightly-colored Oyster Perpetual dials.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"As the Swiss Supreme Court notes, personalization is increasingly important to consumers, which Rolex seems to recognize, too.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Meanwhile, AdG is trying to walk a thin line. While the Supreme Court has said its core customization business is legal, it must be extremely cautious in how it markets and advertises its customization services, only using Rolex marks for informational purposes or in ways linked to AdG's services. On <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/artisansdegeneve//" target=\"\">AdG's social media</a>, you'll see its posts emphasize the \"unique craftsmanship\" and techniques that go into each customization. Each post is accompanied by an anguished legal disclaimer explaining that AdG is in the business of carrying out work \"at the sole request of our customers…and for their private use only.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Court's ruling affirms and clarifies something that probably feels intuitive to watch enthusiasts: You can do whatever you want with your own watch, as long as it remains for your personal use. You can even hire a third party to do this customization or modding.\n\nAfter all, there's <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/custom-watches-are-awesome-and-should-no-longer-be-taboo/" target=\"_blank\">a long history</a> of customizing, modding, and bussing-down watches. It's personal and fun, and no brand should be able to control that. At the same time, brands have some legitimate interest in protecting their brand name. Balancing these two interests is tricky, and while the fight is between Rolex and AdG for now, it has big implications for the future of watches.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The case is Rolex vs. A.________ SA, 4A 171/2023. See the full decision <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://entscheide.weblaw.ch/cache.php?link=19.01.2024_4A_171-2023\%22 target=\"\">here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Swiss Supreme Court Rules That Rolex Customizer Artisans de Geneve Is Legal","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":10,"slug":"in_depth","name":"In-Depth","description":"Deep, detailed research on the topics and products defining the watch industry today.","sort_order":6,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.037-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.477-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"8085258a-850f-4332-96cd-76ecb417a3d3","container_id":13167,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/45d922c0-5abc-462b-b538-e0bbed800a48/16x9forHSite12.png","width":1920,"height":1080,"format":"png","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"rolex artisans de geneve lawsuit customization","created_at":"2024-03-12T09:46:02.441-04:00","updated_at":"2024-03-15T17:48:11.359-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/45d922c0-5abc-462b-b538-e0bbed800a48/16x9forHSite12.png?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/swiss-high-court-rules-on-lawsuit-between-rolex-and-customizer-artisans-de-geneve","full_title":"In-Depth: Swiss High Court Rules On Lawsuit Between Rolex And Customizer Artisans de Geneve","tags":["rolex","in-depth","artisans-de-geneve","customization"]},{"id":13155,"slug":"the-girard-perregaux-chronograph-now-in-titanium-live-pics","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph, Now In Titanium (Live Pics)","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-03-19T05:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-03-08T10:07:53.651-05:00","updated_at":"2024-03-19T08:40:19.377-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"A lighter Laureato chrono that's just as good as its steel counterpart. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":21919,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Girard-Perregaux has introduced its latest Laureato, the Laureato Chronograph Ti49. For fans of the Laureato, it'll be a familiar form, just a little bit lighter since the case and bracelet are now made of Grade 5 titanium. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["98213a3c-f9e7-49bb-ae29-3c2b1fc15440"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Laureato Chrono Ti49 measures 42mm and 12mm thick (50mm lug-to-lug), and the case and bracelet are made of Grade 5 titanium – an alloy that's also made of aluminum and vanadium <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/lets-lighten-up-and-talk-titanium/" target=\"_blank\">that makes it harder than Grade 2</a> (the \"49\" refers to the fact that this year is the Lauteato's 49th anniversary). The case dimensions are well balanced, and while the lug-to-lug measurement is relatively long, you can see in these photos how the downward-sloping lugs make it wearable, even on my smaller wrist. The 12mm thickness is also manageable (only about 1mm thicker than the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-70s-nostalgia-freak-reviews-the-new-girard-perregaux-42mm-laureato/" target=\"_blank\">three-hand Laureato</a>), especially considering the modular chronograph movement inside. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Inside is the manufacture caliber GP03300, which uses an automatic base caliber and adds a chronograph module on top. It beats at 4Hz and has a relatively low 46-hour power reserve, and is a familiar movement to GP's chronograph family. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["eff0a3ce-f104-40ac-bfa5-2e1f09d56e01"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The dial is a cool grey with a Clous de Paris pattern, snailed subdials, and a 4:30 date window. It seems the tone-on-tone grey dial is becoming the go-to choice for brands releasing titanium chronographs – Zenith opted for the same with its <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-zenith-chronomaster-sport-in-titanium/" target=\"_blank\">titanium Chronomaster Sport, introduced earlier this year</a>. If it's becoming a bit of a cliche – \"a cool grey dial to match the modern performance of the titanium case\" – it's only because the combo seems to work. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Laureato Chronograph Ti49 has an MSRP of $19,400. For comparison, the steel Laureato chrono will set you back $18,600. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["cd1dc8d9-f947-4fd7-8482-cb6bb2bce2f2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7237b8ff-f613-42a3-9f56-3f67b2ef3fe3","c3d3ceaa-1de5-4af9-88c8-45124441392b"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Girard-Perregaux released the first Laureato in 1975, three years after the Royal Oak and one year before the Nautilus. Vacheron's 222 and the IWC Ingeniuer also came shortly after. The Laureato is part of the founding generation of integrated bracelet steel sports watches – of course, all these watches have a lot in common, but they all have their own character, too. \n\nThe Laureato form works well as a 42mm chronograph, and the 10mm thickness makes for a well-proportioned case. While it's a larger watch, the lighter titanium case and bracelet make it wearable, and the slim profile and downward-angled lugs are shaped to fit the wrist nicely. The quality of the grade 5 titanium's fit and finish are apparent, with a mix of polished and brushed surfaces. The bracelet has polished center links and bevels that contrast with brushed links, while the bezel combines a number of finishes and surfaces for a distinct look. The bracelet also has a relatively dramatic taper to the double-trigger deployant clasp, making it comfortable on the wrist. Half links near the clasp means most people should be able to find a nice size for the bracelet. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5ae0c0af-e798-4834-8d1e-7d816291382a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"It's still a sports watch, with a screw-down crown and pushers that give the Laureato Chronograph Ti49 100 meters of water resistance. \n\nAt $19,400, the titanium Laureato Chrono is a slight premium over its steel counterpart. There's really not a lot of competition at this price point for an integrated bracelet chronograph. I prefer the titanium over the steel because it makes the slightly larger size more wearable, and GP has managed to match the impressive finish of the steel on the titanium Laureato Chrono. \n\nThis brings me to an ask for GP: Back in 2018, you released a line of 38mm chronographs alongside the 42mm versions. Six years later, is it too much to ask you to bring back a 38mm Laureato Chronograph, in any metal? ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Girard-Perregaux Model: Laureato ChronographTi49 Reference Number: 81020-21-3263-1CM\n\nDiameter: 42mm Thickness: 12mm Case Material: Grade 5 titanium Dial Color: Grey with Clous de Paris pattern Indexes: Applied, PVD-treated indices with lume Lume: White Super-LumiNova Water Resistance: 100 meters Strap/Bracelet: Titanium bracelet with double-trigger deployant clasp","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3989bc12-13a8-4078-89be-604b4d432f0e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: GP03300 Functions: Chronograph, date Diameter: 25.95mm Thickness: 6.5mm Power Reserve: 46 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour Jewels: 63 jewels Additional Details: Automatic movement with chronograph module","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: $19,400 Limited Edition: No\n\nFor more, click <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.google.com/search?q=girard+perregaux&oq=girard+perregaux+&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyBggAEEUYOTIGCAEQRRg7MgYIAhBFGDsyBggDEEUYOzIICAQQABgWGB4yBggFEEUYPDIGCAYQRRg8MgYIBxBFGDzSAQgzNzI2ajBqN6gCALACAA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8\%22 target=\"_blank\">here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Review Of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Titanium Chronograph","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"ad40a62e-d70f-42b7-ad65-2c2f8c6672f6","container_id":13155,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/bd2d2b37-2515-4254-bfe4-9f85eed6e63e/DSC_0207.jpg","width":2048,"height":1152,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"girard-perregaux laureato titanium chronograph ti49","created_at":"2024-03-08T10:07:53.711-05:00","updated_at":"2024-03-18T16:51:50.995-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/bd2d2b37-2515-4254-bfe4-9f85eed6e63e/DSC_0207.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-girard-perregaux-chronograph-now-in-titanium-live-pics","full_title":"Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph, Now In Titanium (Live Pics)","tags":["girard-perregaux","introducing","girard-perregaux-laureato","new-watches-2024"]},{"id":13170,"slug":"why-are-some-watch-brands-underappreciated","column_slug":"hodinkee_radio","title":"Why Are Some Watch Brands Underappreciated?","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-03-13T13:00:10.031-04:00","created_at":"2024-03-12T16:12:34.379-04:00","updated_at":"2024-03-13T13:01:21.433-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Talking Laurent Ferrier, the Morgan Stanley report on the Swiss watch industry, new releases from AP and Omega, and more. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":22809,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"It's Wednesday, which means it's another episode of Hodinkee Radio. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/hodinkee/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee's YouTube channel</a> (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/browse/hodinkee-radio/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee Radio</a> feed, so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find your podcasts (might we recommend <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"_blank\">Apple Podcasts</a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"\">,</a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/hodinkee-radio?refid=stpr\%22 target=\"_blank\">Stitcher</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://open.spotify.com/show/7uJbcyr8BrUU9uRb5W7tbd/" target=\"_blank\">Spotify</a>, or <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://tun.in/pi6n7/" target=\"_blank\">TuneIn</a>).","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"code":"<iframe height=\"200px\" width=\"100%\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\" seamless src=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://player.simplecast.com/d599fba9-e45b-4754-823e-25685494879c?dark=false\%22>%22},%22type%22:%22Block::Code%22},{%22data%22:{%22copy%22:%22

This week I'm joined by Ben Clymer and client advisor Rich Fordon. We cover a range of topics, but our main discussion is about underappreciated high-end watch brands. Using Laurent Ferrier as something of a case study, we discuss why an important watchmaker might not be recognized as such by the market, what went wrong, and what can be done to change the perception of a brand. \n\nBefore that, we offer quick takes on some of the biggest news of the last week: We talk about Audemars Piguet's slate of releases, including John Mayer's limited edition QP; the Morgan Stanley Luxe Consult report on the Swiss watch industry in 2023; finally, with Oscars season behind us, we pitch Hollywood a few watch-related movies. \n\nThanks again to Accutron for supporting Hodinkee Radio. For more on the Accutron DNA Casino Collection, visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.accutronwatch.com//" target=\"_blank\">accutronwatch.com</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"GqHZyKQywQ0","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"00:01: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.accutronwatch.com/us/en//" target=\"_blank\">Accutronwatch.com</a>\n\n1:53: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-omega-white-dial-steel-speedmaster/" target=\"_blank\">It's Finally Here: Omega Announces A White Dial Speedmaster In Steel – Oh, And It's a Lacquer Dial</a>\n\n2:23: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.omegawatches.com/en-us/watch-omega-speedmaster-moonwatch-professional-co-axial-master-chronometer-chronograph-42-mm-31060425002001/" target=\"_blank\">Omega Speedmaster in Canopus Gold</a>\n\n4:23: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/omega-speedmaster-moonwatch-in-moonshine-gold/" target=\"_blank\">A Week On The Wrist: Omega Speedmaster in Moonshine Gold</a>\n\n6:04: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-john-mayer-audemars-piguet-royal-oak/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar John Mayer Limited Edition</a>\n\n6:42: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguets-collaboration-with-rapper-and-mogul-travis-scott/" target=\"_blank\">What Does Audemars Piguet's Collaboration With Rapper And Mogul Travis Scott Mean For The Watch Industry?</a>\n\n7:10: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tuscan-dials-royal-oak/" target=\"_blank\">A Glimpse At The Ultra-Rare Handcrafted Tuscan Dials Of Audemars Piguet</a>\n\n8:15: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-audemars-piguet-2024-watches/" target=\"_blank\">Audemars Piguet's New Watches Of 2024: From the Royal Oak To The Code 11.59, The Offshore, And More (Live Pics)</a>\n\n9:50: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://revolutionwatch.com/morgan-stanley-luxeconsult-2024//" target=\"_blank\">Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult Swiss Watch Industry Report for 2024 </a>(Revolution)\n\n16:48: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/blogs/journal/vacheron-constantin-historiques-cornes-de-vache-1955-limited-edition-for-hodinkee/" target=\"_blank\">Vacheron Constantin Cornes de Vache for Hodinkee</a>\n\n18:53: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://limited.hodinkee.com/hermes//" target=\"_blank\">Slim D'Hermès for Hodinkee</a>\n\n21:45: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tag-heuer-carrera-glassbox-39mm-its-time-to-care-about-the-carrera-again/" target=\"_blank\">A Week On The Wrist: The TAG Heuer 'Glassbox' 39mm</a>\n\n27:18: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/how-the-five-time-zone-shaped-modern-watch-culture/" target=\"_blank\">How The Five Time Zone Shaped Modern Watch Culture</a>\n\n28:50: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-wild-mostly-complete-story-of-john-lennons-lost-patek-philippe-2499/" target=\"_blank\">The Wild, (Mostly) Complete Story Of John Lennon's Lost Patek Philippe 2499</a>\n\n29:10: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-reference-3448-senza-luna-in-depth/" target=\"_blank\">The Curious Case Of The Patek Philippe Reference 3448 'Senza Luna'</a>\n\n31:31: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/inside-laurent-ferrier/" target=\"_blank\">A Visit To, And Detailed Look At, Laurent Ferrier</a>\n\n35:40: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-with-william-massena/" target=\"_blank\">Talking Watches: William Massena</a> (including his Laurent Ferrier for Only Watch)\n\n38:00 <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/CbsBUPMLlO8/ /" target=\"_blank\">Ben's \"unique\" Laurent Ferrier</a>\n\n40:31: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/laurent-ferrier-galet-traveller-limited-edition-for-hodinkee /" target=\"_blank\">Laurent Ferrier Galet Traveller Limited Edition for Hodinkee</a>\n\n49:15: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/lange-zeitwerk-review/" target=\"_blank\">Brief Thoughts On The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk</a>\n\n49:40: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.acollectedman.com/products/a-lange-sohne-tourbillon-pour-le-merite/" target=\"_blank\">Lange Platinum Pour le Merite Tourbillon</a> (for sale at A Collected Man)\n\n49:56: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-sohne-zeitwerk-honeygold-lumen/" target=\"_blank\">A. Lange & Söhne Mixes A Honeygold Case And A Lumen Dial In Latest Zeitwerk Release</a>\n\n52:30: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-datograph-in-depth/" target=\"_blank\">In-Depth: The Classic A. 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","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ad052c67-591a-430e-ad45-dc9b8487243e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Open-heart watches aren't my thing, so I'll focus on the three time-and-date releases. As is usually the case with Presage releases, the dials are the standouts for this release. The treatment looks soft and subtle, true to its natural inspiration. If you want a dress watch with a pretty dial for $1,000, the Seiko Presage lineup stands apart from much of the competition. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d9a37063-7ffe-47a2-9c58-3f13362c6e57"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Beyond that, I'll be curious to see how the updated case and bracelet wear on the wrist. 40 x 13mm can wear big for a dress watch that's mostly dial, but Seiko says the ergonomics have been refined for a slimmer, more elegant watch. And if the dimensions don't hit your wrist quite right, there's plenty of competition around this price point and even below. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3c3d9758-6300-4237-bfcb-ea9247846163"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Some of the other technical specs, including 100 meters of water resistance and the updated 6R55 movement, are nice to have, but it'll be up to potential Presage customers if this is worth the $950 price tag. 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For more, visit the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.seikowatches.com/global-en/products/presage/special/classic_series/index/" target=\"\">Presage page on Seiko's website</a>.","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. 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All are priced well into the six figures but put on full display the mixture of craft and high watchmaking that few outside the world's largest luxury brand can match. Let's take a look. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Geneve Sapphire Frank Gehry"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["18f9c60b-aadf-47ee-a6d5-dbeaa8d6ca75"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"For this first High Watchmaking timepiece, LV has worked with architect and long-time collaborator Frank Gehry to develop a sapphire flying tourbillon that also has Geneva Seal certification. For this five-piece limited edition that'll cost you about a million bucks, Gehry took inspiration from previous buildings he's designed for Louis Vuitton, along with the 2022 Tambour Moon Saphir for the case and dial. The result is a watch with a sapphire case, lugs, dials, and crown that feels airy paired with the skeletonized rose gold movement. The sapphire dial is polished and finished by hand; if you're only making five, might as well, right? ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"And about that movement: It's crafted by the wizards at La Fabrique du Temps, LV's workshop outside Geneva. The movement features a flying tourbillon that rotates once a minute and carries Geneva Seal certification. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"It's as much a wrist structure as it is a watch, but the sapphire and skeletonization gives it a contemporary feel that matches Gehry's aesthetic and feels fresh compared to something like <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/louis-vuitton-tambour-carpe-diem-minute-repeater-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">the Carpe Diem</a>. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Louis Vuitton Tambour Moon Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Geneve Sapphire Frank Gehry is a 5-piece limited edition. The sapphire case measures 43.8mm x 11.27mm thick; hand-polished sapphire dial, in addition to sapphire hands, crown, and lugs. Features the caliber LFTMM05.01, a skeletonized flying tourbillon with 160 components, and Poinçon de Geneve certification. 80-hour power reserve and beats at 21,600 vph. MSRP: $935,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Escale Cabinet Of Wonders"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4de4ff3f-1d3c-4646-a599-3ca3f356c4e1","540064f8-58f4-4016-badc-110b60dfab11"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Next, Louis Vuitton released a trio of Escale pieces. Each limited edition watch draws inspiration from objects in the collection of Gaston-Louis Vuitton, who led the company for much of the 20th century. The three Escale Cabinet of Wonders pieces are (1) Koi's Garden, (2) Dragon's Cloud, and (3) Snake's Jungle. All are limited editions of 20 pieces and have a retail price of about $270,000. Each uses a variety of artisanal techniques and artistry to craft different dials. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["beff9902-b3c8-4f82-8f83-0642d73fcbca"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"For me, the \"Snake's Jungle\" is the standout, which depicts a forest and uses a variety of wood, parchment, and straw, all hand cut and assembled to create the jungle scene. In total, 267 individual pieces come together to create the dial. But that's not all: a snake also slithers across the scene, combining micro-sculpture, engraving, and champlevé enamelling to create a 3D serpentine. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The brand says that this trio of new Escale watches is the first of a redesigned Escale collection. Hand-polished case horns meant to evoke the brackets of Louis Vuitton's traditional trunks are still a standout of the case design. All three models of the Escale Cabinet of Wonders collection feature gold 20mm cases and use the caliber LFT023, an automatic movement with 50-hour power reserve beating at 28,800 beats per hour. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The trio of new Louis Vuitton Escale Cabinet of Wonders watches are: (1) Koi's Garden, (2) Cabinet of Wonders, and (3) Snake's Jungle. Each features a different métiers d'Art dial that employs a variety of artisanal techniques and artisans. For example, Snake's Jungle has a dial made of wood, straw, and parchment by Rose Saneuil, along with gold snakes and leaves hand-engraved by Eddy Jacquet with champlevé enamel by Vanessa Lecci. The Snake's Jungle has a white gold case (40mm) with hand-engraved bezel and jade crown. Each Escale Cabinet of Wonders uses the automatic caliber LFT023. MSRP: $269,000 (Snake's Jungle). Limited edition of 20 pieces each. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Tambour Slim Vivienne Jumping Hours Sakura And Astronaut"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b7ff4ecd-0e21-41a6-a866-7dbbd142c4d5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Finally, Louis Vuitton released a pair of new Tambour Jumping Hours watches: Sakura and Astronaut. In a bit of myth-making, Louis Vuitton says that Vivienne, a character created by the brand in 2017, is now its \"mascot.\" So for this pair of new Tambour jumping hours pieces, it's put the mascot in two playful motifs. The first, \"Sakura,\" takes inspiration from the Japanese cherry blossoms, infusing the dial with flowers, monograms, and a pink mother-of-pearl dial. The second, \"Astronaut,\" sends little Viv to space, a blue MoP aventurine dial with some planets, and diamonds dutifully in orbit.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["450d7a18-9501-4dc4-8878-c2955332a1c1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In both, Vivienne sits inside a diamond-set white gold case measuring 38mm. It's powered by the caliber LV 180, an automatic double aperture jumping hour developed and assembled by LFdT. The pair of jumping hours watches combines LV's expertise in crafts and high watchmaking to create something that's impressively LV.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Tambour Slim Vivienne Jumping Hours Sakura and Astronaut measures 38 x 12.2mm. The white gold case is diamond set, and in total but watches have more than 3.8 carats of brilliant cut diamonds and another rose cut diamond (.2 ct). MSRP: $118,000. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"Louis Vuitton is part of the LVMH Watch Group. Although LVMH Luxury Ventures is a minority investor in HODINKEE, we maintain complete editorial independence.","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. 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","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":15416,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"It's Wednesday, which means it's another episode of Hodinkee Radio. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/hodinkee/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee's YouTube channel</a> (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/browse/hodinkee-radio/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee Radio</a> feed, so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find your podcasts (might we recommend <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"_blank\">Apple Podcasts</a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"\">,</a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/hodinkee-radio?refid=stpr\%22 target=\"_blank\">Stitcher</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://open.spotify.com/show/7uJbcyr8BrUU9uRb5W7tbd/" target=\"_blank\">Spotify</a>, or <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://tun.in/pi6n7/" target=\"_blank\">TuneIn</a>).","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"code":"<iframe height=\"200px\" width=\"100%\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\" seamless src=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://player.simplecast.com/a96e585a-0550-4332-b99a-477d36d65ec2?dark=false\%22>%22},%22type%22:%22Block::Code%22},{%22data%22:{%22copy%22:%22

This week, I'm joined by Danny Milton and Malaika Crawford, and we're talking proportions: What watch brands get right, what they get wrong, and what we want to see more of. We start with Malaika's recent article, \"<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-plea-for-proportionality/" target=\"_blank\">The Plea For Proportionality</a>,\" but quickly jump into recent releases from Vacheron Constantin, Tudor, and a whole lot more. While some of these smaller and mid-sized releases have garnered headlines, at large, average watch sizes haven't gotten much smaller, though options have certainly increased.\n\nNowadays, tastes are broader than ever before, and that's creating a new demand on brands to recognize that goods things can come in small, medium, and large packages. \n\nWe finish with a wish list of well-proportioned watches we'd like to see from brands. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"ruoAsjb4Ez4","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"00:01: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.accutronwatch.com/us/en//" target=\"_blank\">Accutronwatch.com</a>\n\n00:58: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-plea-for-proportionality/" target=\"_blank\">The Plea for Proportionality</a>\n\n3:55: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/how-hamillton-made-a-watch-for-dune-part-2-and-turned-it-into-two-illuminating-limited-editions/" target=\"_blank\">How Hamilton Made A Watch For 'Dune Part: 2' And Turned It Into Two Illuminating Limited Editions</a>\n\n7:57: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/elton-john-shows-us-that-vintage-chopard-is-worth-a-revisit/" target=\"_blank\">Elton John Shows Us That Vintage Chopard Is Worth A Revisit</a>\n\n9:57: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/C1ISdJ6rgec/ /" target=\"_blank\">Chopard Monte Carlo</a>\n\n10:08: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/everything-you-need-to-know-about-the-early-chopard-luc-collection/" target=\"_blank\">Everything You Need To Know About The Early Chopard L.U.C Collection</a>\n\n10:15: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/chopard-luc-1860-in-lucent-steel/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: Chopard L.U.C 1860 In Lucent Steel</a>\n\n24:20: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vacheron-constantin-overseas-345mm-and-a-few-thoughts-on-midsize-watches/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: Vacheron Overseas 34.5mm And A Few Thoughts on Midsize Watches</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":59,"slug":"hodinkee_radio","name":"HODINKEE Radio","description":"A weekly podcast hosted by James Stacey that features a chat between a collection of Hodinkee personalities (generally our own editors), focusing on noteworthy/popular topics and stories within the watch world. Unlike with the previous iteration of this show, Hodinkee Radio is no longer an interview show but rather functions more like a depth-adding panel discussion to support the editorial calendar and bring the audience into the sorts of conversations common among the editors.","sort_order":4,"created_at":"2018-07-10T13:23:42.305-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.468-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"d11adfa3-dc1c-45b8-9e6a-d7d8b403cb2e","container_id":13147,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/b0d18deb-4b36-47c2-a81b-0e4da1943fb5/H-Radio-Article-Hero-005.jpg","width":2880,"height":1680,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2024-03-05T10:52:58.216-05:00","updated_at":"2024-03-06T08:43:42.273-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/b0d18deb-4b36-47c2-a81b-0e4da1943fb5/H-Radio-Article-Hero-005.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/what-watch-brands-get-right-and-wrong-about-proportions","full_title":"HODINKEE Radio: What Watch Brands Get Right (And Wrong) About Proportions","tags":["hodinkee-radio"]},{"id":13138,"slug":"a-rare-vintage-heuer-carrera-with-racing-provenance-up-for-sale-at-sothebys","column_slug":"auction_report","title":"A Rare Vintage Heuer Carrera With Racing Provenance Up For Sale At Sotheby's","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-03-05T14:59:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2024-03-01T09:18:09.362-05:00","updated_at":"2024-03-05T15:34:10.481-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"The vintage Carrera Sunray DX is one of perhaps a dozen given to racing team members in the '60s. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":18589,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"The link between Heuer and racing is about as strong as ordering a whiskey neat.\n\nI grew up in Indianapolis going to the Indy 500, where a TAG Heuer logo atop the Speedway's Pagoda casts a shadow over the track. But there's a rare vintage Carrera coming to auction that reiterates the connection more than any childhood nostalgia: a rare Heuer Carrera 3647 with a Sunray DX logo that tells another chapter of this connection is part of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/fine-watches-9/" target=\"_blank\">Sotheby's Fine Watches sale this month</a>.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Carrera comes from the original owner, Gary Goss. Gary joined the Sunray DX racing team in 1967, just as the team hit its stride thanks to Chevrolet dealer and car tuner Don Yenko, who was known for making Chevys go faster. Just 21, Gary became the racing team's hauler and a pilot, getting the Sunray DX team and its cars wherever they needed to go across the country.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f01d0cdd-63f2-4328-82f0-4a219aa6ac45"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"At the end of the '67 racing season, the team manager gave Gary and a few other team members a Heuer Carrera with the red, white, and blue Sunray DX logo printed at 6 o'clock. According to Jeff Stein of On The Dash, it came with the words, \"You earned it.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"Probably only 12 of these watches were made, and Goss was standing there when they were handing them out to the other team members too,\" Jeff Stein of On The Dash told me. Stein published the full story of the Corvette, Sunray DX, and the Carrera on his site – I recommend <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.onthedash.com/sunray-dx-carrera//" target=\"_blank\">giving it a read</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["754e5a8e-d537-4cf0-aaf3-bc9196ee41a2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Stein said that this Sunray DX Carrera really represents an important time for Chevy, when \"Sunray DX and Yenko finally succeeded in building the ultimate performance Corvette that could finally take on the Shelby Cobra.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"By the mid-1960s, oil company Sunray DX sponsored a number of regional races and teams. But in 1967 it went all in, funding a full-time racing program. Its first car purchase? A Corvette from Yenko Chevrolet, and Don Yenko became the team's lead driver. And not just any Corvette: the first one with a super-charged L-88 engine.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"While Chevy introduced the Corvette in 1953, it fell behind Ford in performance in 1962, when Carroll Shelby created the Cobra, putting a Ford V8 engine in a sports car.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["106b5fa8-cea1-4b22-9acd-6b1f8da1309a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"By 1967, Chevrolet finally had its response: the L-88 Corvette, a thinly veiled race car designed to go fast. Don Yenko secured the first production model just weeks before the 12 Hours of Sebring, one leg of the \"triple crown\" of endurance racing, along with Le Mans and Daytona. Yenko would go on to win his class at Sebring, which would become the beginning of a hugely successful racing run for the Sunray DX team.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The peak came at the 24 Hours of Daytona in 1968, when Yenko, along with the other two L-88 Sunray DX Corvettes <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.motortrend.com/features/1610-the-sunray-dx-corvette-race-team-at-1968-daytona-24-hour-in-full-color/?galleryimageid=acfc74c0-acca-447b-aacd-a60a9ebfa8d5\%22 target=\"_blank\">pulled even to take a steep bank side-by-side</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"body":"The Carrera Sunray DX represents a pivotal time for the Corvette, when it finally caught up to – and even passed – the Shelby Cobra. For the full story on the L-88 Corvette, Sunray DX, and the Carrera, visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.onthedash.com/sunray-dx-carrera//" target=\"_blank\">On The Dash</a>. ","title":"The Story of the Corvette, Sunray DX, and the Carrera","images":["25057fcf-2b9e-4f03-bf30-d187da3ba8d2"],"alignment":"left"},"type":"Block::CallOutBox"},{"data":{"copy":"As for Gary Goss, after his short stint as a pilot and hauler with Sunray DX, he moved to Florida where he had a long career in law enforcement with the Fort Lauderdale Police Department. In addition to being a police officer, he logged more than 8,000 hours as a pilot. Most of the time, the Sunray DX Carrera he received in the summer of 1967 was on his wrist. As you can see, it's on a Seiko bracelet, which I absolutely love. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"As we covered in our Carrera <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/reference-points-tag-heuer-carrera/" target=\"_blank\">Reference Points</a>, there are a number of different racing- and car-related logos that can be found on Carreras over the years.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"To me, the great thing about the [Sunray DX Carrera] is that it's connected to an important car – a fantastic looking logo and car – and it's straight from the original owner,\" Stein said. He said it ranks right near the top in terms of logo-dial Carreras. \"I'd rather have a racing watch like this than a dealer watch,\" he added.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"The movie was Ford vs. Ferrari, but growing up in the U.S. in the ‘60s, my friends didn’t pay much attention to Ferrari,\" Stein said. \"If you were turning 16, you were either a Ford or a Chevy guy.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"And this Sunray DX Carrera tells the story of the L-88 Corvette, the watch that finally let Chevy take on, and beat, Ford and Carroll Shelby.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Heuer Carrera Sunray DX is in Sotheby's Fine Watches sale ending March 12. See Lot 90 <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/fine-watches-9/reference-3647-carrera-sunray-dx-a-stainless-steel/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>. For the complete story of the L-88 Corvette, Sunray DX, and the Carrera, check out On The Dash's <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://www.onthedash.com/sunray-dx-carrera//" target=\"_blank\">full article</a>. A huge thanks to Jeff Stein for telling us more about Goss' story.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Rare Heuer Carrera Sunray DX At Sotheby's NY","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":36,"slug":"auction_report","name":"Auctions","description":"Explore the world of watch auctions, follow results on both vintage and modern collectibles, and track trends in collecting and spending.","sort_order":12,"created_at":"2016-12-02T12:53:02.270-05:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:39:59.777-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"2be16b39-95ab-4655-88aa-6761707e21d8","container_id":13138,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/caceb1c3-3e7d-497c-89fc-04123222f375/sothebys-md.brightspotcdn-1.jpg","width":4096,"height":2714,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"heuer carrera sunray dx","created_at":"2024-03-01T09:18:09.400-05:00","updated_at":"2024-03-05T15:33:37.564-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/caceb1c3-3e7d-497c-89fc-04123222f375/sothebys-md.brightspotcdn-1.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-rare-vintage-heuer-carrera-with-racing-provenance-up-for-sale-at-sothebys","full_title":"Auctions: A Rare Vintage Heuer Carrera With Racing Provenance Up For Sale At Sotheby's","tags":["tag-heuer","heuer","auctions","heuer-carrera","vintage-watches"]},{"id":13127,"slug":"the-reverso-that-revived-the-jaeger-lecoultre-reverso","column_slug":"in_depth","title":"The Reverso That Revived The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-03-01T15:00:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2024-02-23T15:39:30.403-05:00","updated_at":"2024-03-01T19:37:47.381-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"How JLC's Italian distributor helped the brand bring back its unique flipping watch in the '70s. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":39075,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Jaeger-LeCoultre didn't make a Reverso from the 1940s until the early 1970s.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"It's hard to imagine now, with JLC recently celebrating the Reverso's 90th anniversary and even hosting <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-jaeger-lecoultre-reverso-exhibit-tells-the-story-of-an-icon/" target=\"\">an entire exhibit</a> dedicated to its unique reversing watch in New York last year. But for decades, it sat as a mostly forgotten footnote in the manufacturer's history.\n\nThis changed in 1972 when Giorgio Corvo, then Jaeger-LeCoultre's agent for Italy, visited the manufacturer in Le Sentier.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["69782d26-33af-47ba-9319-ad6be7ddd875"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"\"My grandfather [Giorgio] Corvo went to the manufacturer,\" says Jacopo Corvo, the grandson of Giorgo, who now operates <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://gmtitalia.com//" target=\"_blank\">GMT Italia</a>, a retailer and distributor of high-end indies in Italy. According to lore, Grandpa Giorgio opened a drawer in the manufacturer and stumbled upon a stash of 200 Staybrite steel (an early stainless steel alloy) Reverso cases, forgotten since JLC ceased production in 1948.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"My grandfather said, 'we need a Reverso,'\" explains Corvo. \"It was very common at the time for markets to ask a maison to make something.\" The Royal Oak, a request from Audemars Piguet's Italian distributor, is perhaps the most famous example of this.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["37434a92-1f44-45f1-987c-0cc887133bfd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"\"Imagine the scene,\" Corvo said. \"It's 1972, full quartz crisis. Swiss brands were falling one by one, going out of business. Everyone's buying quartz Seikos.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Especially after World War II, rectangular watches like the Reverso fell out of favor with buyers, so JLC stopped production in the late '40s. But after discovering those old cases, Corvo kept pushing Jaeger-LeCoultre to bring back a Reverso for him to sell in Italy. JLC was resistant, especially because it knew how difficult the flippable Reverso case was to manufacture.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"Corvo took one or two cases back to Italy,\" explains Matthieu Sauret, Jaeger-LeCoultre's Product & Heritage Director. Corvo had watchmakers and technicians for after-sales service, so he put them to work. After a year, these watchmakers created a movement holder to fit a JLC caliber 840, a small oval-shaped movement, into the old Reverso cases. Corvo then brought this prototype contraption back to the Valle de Joux.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["64a0cd2a-6b2b-4329-9ee9-a8c8ad7ca762"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"\"The Swiss watchmakers were a bit mad that an Italian watchmaker figured out something and they didn't,\" Sauret said. From there, Jaeger-LeCoultre industrialized Corvo's system so that it could produce a run of Reversos using the 200 cases that had been found in Le Sentier.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"A new dial was also designed for the \"Corvo Reverso\": a beautiful white or grey dial signed \"Jaeger-LeCoultre,\" with Roman numerals, 100 of each color. The Roman numerals, in particular, set the grey dial apart from most other Reversos.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"We managed to sell all 200 Reversos in less than three months,\" Jacopo Corvo said. For perspective, Jacopo told me that just a few years prior, Corvo sold only about 200 JLC watches in an entire year. There are legends that some of the most prominent VIPs in Milan bought a Corvo Reverso, including Gianni Versace and Gianni Agnelli (though I've never seen photos to prove this).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["158edeb0-fcfb-44b6-9c8f-bf8a816bbd11"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"After the success of the Corvo Reverso, Jaeger-LeCoultre soon got to the work of relaunching the Reverso worldwide. The Corvo was produced by 1975. Over the next few years, Jaeger-LeCoultre worked to manufacture a new case for the Reverso – more complex than the original, and also waterproof.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The real Reverso boom came in the 1980s with the introduction of the larger \"Grande Taille\" Reverso case.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The 1990s then became the golden age for the Reverso. To celebrate the Reverso's 60th anniversary in 1991, JLC began adding complications to the Reverso for the first time. First came the 60ème, a Grande Taille Reverso with a power reserve indicator and date that featured a gold movement.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"The 60th anniversary is my favorite Reverso – it's the one that changed everything,\" Jacopo told me.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7f69cf57-4aaf-4bab-a54f-d56b63ce539f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Through the rest of the decade, JLC produced six limited-edition Reversos for each of six \"traditional complications\" – power reserve, tourbillon, minute repeater, chronograph (upon which last year's <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-jaeger-lecoultre-reverso-tribute-chronograph-2/" target=\"_blank\">Heritage Reverso Chronograph</a> is based), geographique, and perpetual calendar. Each limited to 500 pieces, this run of complicated Reversos was a hit, especially in Italy.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"Italy was the first market in the world for many watch brands, and the Italian market helped many brands become what they are today,\" Corvo said. \"It's a very mature market. People started to collect watches here in the 1940s and '50s. And it wasn't just for telling the time, it was fashion. They were predecessors of today's watch collector.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"During this entire time, Jaeger-LeCoultre was home to many master watchmakers. First, it was Philippe Dufour; then, legends like Eric Coudray and Max Büsser, with Günter Blümlein leading the way for much of this period. This era of the rebirth of the Reverso is worth a separate article.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Collecting The Corvo Reverso Today"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["77795600-4055-4ff3-a43d-ad547cd24fdf"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"For the longest time, collectors didn't know the Corvo Reverso story. This changed in 2021 when the Italian site Watch Insanity <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.watchinsanity.it/en/jaeger-lecoultre-reverso-e-corvo-storia-di-una-rinascita//" target=\"\">published</a> an excellent article telling its story, featuring an interview with Michele Corvo, Giorgio's son (and Jacopo's father). Soon after Richemont acquired Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Corvo family ended its distribution of the brand in Italy and pivoted to indies, becoming an early pioneer of F.P. Journe, MB&F (they knew Büsser well because of his time at JLC), and others. \n\nBut even today, if you search \"Corvo Reverso,\" this article supplies the sole images of a Corvo Reverso with its proper Roman numeral dial. Over the past couple of years, I've even seen a handful pop up for sale without a mention of the Corvo family, this story, or the watch's role in the rebirth of the Reverso. ","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"It's hard to say whether or not the Corvo Reverso is undervalued, but the story is undoubtedly undertold. So many people just don't know what this watch is and how important it is to the history of Jaeger-LeCoultre. Sure, JLC made those more impressive and complicated Reversos after the Corvo in the '80s and '90s. But the Corvo is the watch that literally brought the Reverso back from the dead – and only 200 were ever made.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5f76f491-ed04-45e7-9c23-c1ae26843d13","f786a344-0274-4551-9748-ba3665a944e2"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In fact, because of the nature of these cases – remember, they're 1940s \"Staybrite\" steel cases – it's possible that over the years, dealers even swapped these Corvo dials with what they thought were era-appropriate dials. The few Corvo Reversos I've seen have serials beginning with 467xxx.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Except for perhaps the Reverso Art Deco and its beautiful salmon dial and skeletonized movement, the Corvo is my favorite Reverso. The Roman numerals dial is beautiful, giving the Corvo an elegance missing in many other Reversos and rivaling that of a vintage Cartier.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"But more than that, it's the story of the Corvo Reverso and its historical importance that makes it one of my favorite watches ever made by Jaeger-LeCoultre, even if the brand itself was once skeptical about the idea.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Thanks to Jacopo Corvo and Matthieu Sauret for their help in telling the story of the Corvo Reverso.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"The Complete History Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Corvo Reverso","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":10,"slug":"in_depth","name":"In-Depth","description":"Deep, detailed research on the topics and products defining the watch industry today.","sort_order":6,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.037-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.477-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"a89b4d71-2113-45fc-94f4-ae9a71a5f70f","container_id":13127,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/f1447454-f484-4b4e-a802-156512da0062/DSC_9971.jpg","width":2048,"height":1152,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"jaeger-lecoultre corvo reverso","created_at":"2024-02-23T15:39:30.455-05:00","updated_at":"2024-02-27T16:48:29.117-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/f1447454-f484-4b4e-a802-156512da0062/DSC_9971.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-reverso-that-revived-the-jaeger-lecoultre-reverso","full_title":"In-Depth: The Reverso That Revived The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso","tags":["jaeger-lecoultre","in-depth","reverso","vintage-watches","jaeger-lecoultre-reverso"]},{"id":13133,"slug":"fantasy-watch-draft-2024","column_slug":"hodinkee_radio","title":"Fantasy Watch Draft 2024","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-02-28T13:12:11.737-05:00","created_at":"2024-02-26T11:50:20.229-05:00","updated_at":"2024-02-28T13:12:15.480-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Four editors build their five-watch fantasy collections – and now you get to choose the winner. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":29401,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"Welcome back to Hodinkee Radio. After our 10-episode run of \"Ben Clymer Presents,\" we're happy to bring Hodinkee Radio back to a weekly show, publishing every Wednesday.\n\nJust like with Ben Clymer Presents, each episode will also have video, so swing by <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/hodinkee/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee's YouTube channel</a> (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/browse/hodinkee-radio/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee Radio</a> feed, so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find your podcasts (might we recommend <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"_blank\">Apple Podcasts</a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"\">,</a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/hodinkee-radio?refid=stpr\%22 target=\"_blank\">Stitcher</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://open.spotify.com/show/7uJbcyr8BrUU9uRb5W7tbd/" target=\"_blank\">Spotify</a>, or <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://tun.in/pi6n7/" target=\"_blank\">TuneIn</a>).","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"code":"<iframe height=\"200px\" width=\"100%\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\" seamless src=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://player.simplecast.com/f902e2d0-7790-4023-8108-10763f448426?dark=false\%22>%22},%22type%22:%22Block::Code%22},{%22data%22:{%22copy%22:%22

This week, I'm joined by Danny Milton, James Stacey, and Mark Kauzlarich. We're bringing back an old school format that's a lot of fun: The Fantasy Watch Draft. Like fantasy football, but for watch nerds. Each of us builds a five watch collection in each of the following categories:\n\n<ul> <li>Sports</li> <li>Dress</li> <li>Complication</li> <li>Indie</li> <li>Budget (under $1,000)</li>\n</ul>\n\nOne a model is drafted, it's gone – for example, if someone picks an Omega Seamaster, all Seamasters (Seamaster 300, chronographs, even Aqua Terras) are off the board. There's no budget, and the only other restriction is that a pick not be a piece unique either when it was made or thanks to its provenance. In other words, no special order Pateks, or Paul Newman's Newman.\n\nCheck out our full fantasy collections below, make sure to vote for your favorite, and maybe even tell us what your five-watch fantasy collection would be. Even better, tell us what type of fantasy draft we should do next. \n\nThanks to Accutron for supporting Hodinkee Radio. For more on the Accutron DNA Casino Collection, visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.accutronwatch.com//" target=\"_blank\">accutronwatch.com</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"Pz1Gb3l7b_c","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Collections"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Here are the four collections – check them out, then vote for your favorite in the poll below! ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"James"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c4795952-eab3-489d-a585-9e8d757902ec"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<ul> <li>\nSports Watch: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Milspec for Hodinkee</li> <li>\nDress Watch: Grand Seiko SBGW252 </li> <li>\nComplication: Patek Philippe ref. 5935A-001</li> <li>\nIndie: Haldimann H1 Flying Tourbillon</li> <li>\nBudget (under $1,000): Arken Alterum</li>\n</ul>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Danny"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["519f2723-6ead-4249-9a19-fd4a003f81a5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<ul> <li>\nSports Watch: Rolex 'Les Mans' Daytona</li> <li>\nDress Watch: A. Lange Saxonia Automatic (Rose Gold)</li> <li>\nComplication: Zenith El Primero Triple Calendar</li> <li>\nIndie: Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto (Blue)</li> <li>\nBudget (under $1,000): Hamilton Murph 38mm</li>\n</ul>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Mark"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5aa2c84b-a6ae-42cf-8bc2-5453fc0633e0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<ul> <li>\nSports Watch: Rolex GMT-Master II 'Pepsi'</li> <li>\nDress Watch: Patek ref. 565 Calatrava with Breguet numerals</li> <li>\nComplication: Patek Philippe ref. 5004A</li> <li>\nIndie: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronometre Contemporain II</li> <li>\nBudget (under $1,000): Seiko SPB153</li>\n</ul>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Tony"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a3c3cb47-b1a9-4f7f-b9fe-3d0dcebe7a51"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<ul> <li>\nSports Watch: Rolex Yacht-Master Titanium</li> <li>\nDress Watch: Cartier London Tank Cintrèe Platinum</li> <li>\nComplication: Original A. Lange Datograph (ref. 403.035)</li> <li>\nIndie: Berneron Mirage</li> <li>\nBudget (under $1,000): Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 'Gold'</li>\n</ul>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"You Pick The Winner"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Now it's time to vote: Who's collection wins our first Fantasy Watch Draft of 2024? We'll keep the poll open until March 8 and let you know the winner in a future episode of Hodinkee Radio. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"poll_id":"b535cc3a-57a1-45c7-8145-0da0a1fb1b6e"},"type":"Block::Poll"},{"data":{"copy":"Let us know what you think of our five-watch collections in the comments. Even better, let us know what five watches you'd choose given the same categories. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"00:01: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.accutronwatch.com/us/en//" target=\"_blank\">Accutronwatch.com</a>\n\n4:05: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://driversjournal.com//" target=\"_blank\">Driver's Journal</a>\n\n5:01: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/hodinkee-magazine-volume-1-reprint/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee Magazine Volume 1</a>\n\n6:14: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.amazon.com/Get-Picture-Mind-Bending-Inspired-Obsessive/dp/0525562206/" target=\"_blank\">Get the Picture</a>\n\n9:14: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://limited.hodinkee.com/blancpain-milspec/ /" target=\"_blank\">Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Milspec for Hodinkee</a>\n\n10:57: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/up-close-and-personal-with-the-2023-rolex-le-mans-daytona-ref-126529ln/" target=\"_blank\">Rolex 'Les Mans' Daytona</a>\n\n12:59: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rexhep-rexhepi-chronometre-contemporain-ii-akrivia-2022/" target=\"_blank\">Rexhep Rexhepi Chronometre Contemporain II</a>\n\n14:28: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/100-years-cartier-tank-cintree/" target=\"_blank\">100 Years of the Cartier Tank Cintrèe</a>, A Collected Man\n\n15:10: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-made-a-wearable-titanium-watch-how-are-people-not-freaking-out /" target=\"_blank\">Rolex Yacht-Master in Titanium</a>\n\n16:28: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-shatters-water-resistance-records-with-its-first-titanium-watch-and-weve-got-exclusive-live-pi/" target=\"_blank\">Rolex Deepsea Challenge in Titanium</a>\n\n17:05: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-releases-the-last-50-ref-5004-split-seconds-perpetuals/" target=\"_blank\">Patek Releases The Last 50 Ref 5004 Split-Seconds Perpetuals In Stainless Steel</a>\n\n18:20: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-least-expensive-lange-is-a-precious-metal-saxonia-that-rocks /" target=\"_blank\">A. Lange & Sohne Saxonia Automatic</a>\n\n19:20: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/grand-seiko-independent-brand-sbgw251-sbgw252-sbgw255-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">Grand Seiko SBGW252</a>\n\n21:07: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/theres-more-from-patek-philippe-and-its-complicated/" target=\"_blank\">Patek Philippe 5395A-001 World Timer Chronograph</a>\n\n22:18: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-laurent-ferrier-sport-auto /" target=\"_blank\">Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto</a>\n\n24:25: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-565-breguet-dial-phillips/" target=\"_blank\">Patek Philippe 565 Calatrava with Breguet numerals</a>\n\n25:32: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-datograph-in-depth/" target=\"_blank\">In-Depth: Lange & Sohne Datograph</a>\n\n26:08: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/breitling-designer-sylvain-berneron-sets-out-to-explore-asymmetry-on-his-own/" target=\"_blank\">One To Watch: Berneron</a>\n\n29:17: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-gmt-master-ii-126710-blro-pepsi-jubilee-hands-on /" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: Rolex GMT-Master II \"Pepsi\"</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"30:56: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/its-time-for-a-real-life-look-at-the-new-38mm-hamilton-murph /" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: Hamilton Murph 38mm</a>\n\n32:30: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-arken-alterum-is-a-clever-titanium-travel-timer /" target=\"_blank\">Arken Alterum</a>\n\n32:55: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://arken.uk/store/arkeninstrumentum1020 /" target=\"_blank\">Arken Instrumentum</a>\n\n34:50: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.acollectedman.com/products/haldimann-h1-flying-central-tourbillon-platinum /" target=\"_blank\">Haldimann H1 Flying Tourbillon</a>\n\n37:16: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-zenith-chronomaster-original-triple-calendar-that-pays-tribute-to-an-el-primero-prototype-live-p /" target=\"_blank\">Zenith Chronomaster Original El Primero Triple Calendar</a>\n\n38:58: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/louis-vuitton-rexhep-rexhepi-lvrr01-chronographe-a-sonnerie/" target=\"_blank\">Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01</a>\n\n40:15: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ive-changed-my-mind-about-the-seiko-spb153 /" target=\"_blank\">Seiko SBP153</a>\n\n41:55: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tissot-prx-powermatic-80-now-finally-in-35mm/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 35mm</a>\n\n42:50: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.tissotwatches.com/en-us/t1374073305100.html /" target=\"_blank\">Dame Lillard Tissot PRX</a>\n\n47:40: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-and-sohne-datograph-updown-lumen-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">Lange Datograph Up/Down \"Lumen\"</a>\n\n48:20: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/early-audemars-piguet-royal-oak-perpetual-calendar-in-depth/" target=\"_blank\">In-Depth: Early Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar</a>\n\n49:23: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://le.hodinkee.com/longines-zulu-time-for-hodinkee /" target=\"_blank\">Longines Spirit Zulu Time for Hodinkee</a>\n\n49:50: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-ressence-type-5 /" target=\"_blank\">Ressence Type 5</a>\n\n50:08: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bulgari-octo-finissimo-perpetual-calendar-a-new-worlds-record-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">Bulgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hodinkee Editors Choose The Best Watches Of 2024","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":59,"slug":"hodinkee_radio","name":"HODINKEE Radio","description":"A weekly podcast hosted by James Stacey that features a chat between a collection of Hodinkee personalities (generally our own editors), focusing on noteworthy/popular topics and stories within the watch world. Unlike with the previous iteration of this show, Hodinkee Radio is no longer an interview show but rather functions more like a depth-adding panel discussion to support the editorial calendar and bring the audience into the sorts of conversations common among the editors.","sort_order":4,"created_at":"2018-07-10T13:23:42.305-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.468-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"0f7d9e56-cc8a-4f05-bc6f-d02dc22354a2","container_id":13133,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/76590a5d-a4dc-45f2-b791-fcb7e9c27e36/H-Radio-Article-Hero-004.jpg","width":2880,"height":1680,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"hodinkee fantasy watch draft 2024","created_at":"2024-02-26T11:50:20.367-05:00","updated_at":"2024-02-28T12:48:59.300-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/76590a5d-a4dc-45f2-b791-fcb7e9c27e36/H-Radio-Article-Hero-004.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/fantasy-watch-draft-2024","full_title":"HODINKEE Radio: Fantasy Watch Draft 2024","tags":["hodinkee-radio"]},{"id":13086,"slug":"the-longines-master-collection-small-seconds","column_slug":"the_value_proposition","title":"The Longines Master Collection Small Seconds","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-02-23T13:15:00.000-05:00","created_at":"2024-02-06T14:01:32.212-05:00","updated_at":"2024-02-26T09:46:15.804-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Heritage inspiration done right. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":54304,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"As a general rule, if you engrave Breguet numerals in a dial, it's probably going to grab my attention. Longines introduced the Master Collection Small Seconds in 2023 after the beautiful and well-received <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/longines-master-collection-190-anniversary-2022/" target=\"\">Master Collection 190th Anniversary</a>. The Small Seconds is smaller and thicker than the anniversary collection, measuring 38.5mm and 10.2mm thick (20mm lug width). It comes in three dial colors: salmon, anthracite, and silver, all with different textures that add a distinct character. Recently, I was able to get hands-on with the salmon and anthracite, and it quickly affirmed that the Master Collection Small Seconds is one of my favorite budget-minded Swiss dress watches.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3072ccea-edcf-45f3-99e0-52a6ff5d4716"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"This is filed under \"Value Proposition,\" so let's get right to it: the Master Collection Small Seconds runs $2,500. I'm not saying this is some screaming deal, but more like – Longines makes a hell of a watch for the price. It's a nice counterpoint to the equally vintage-inspired <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/longines-heritage-classic-sector-dial/" target=\"\">Heritage Classic Sector Dial</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6a8f637f-86e0-4875-86f2-2e591e736f5a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"While the design draws on dress watches of Longines' past, it's not a reissue of any specific reference. The engraved Breguet numerals (perhaps a callback to vintage Longines like <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/1930-longines-pocket-watch-ref-1338?variant=32995133554763\%22 target=\"\">this one</a>), leaf hands, and small seconds subdial hit all the right notes. This is heritage inspiration done right. While I enjoy the more modern look of the anthracite and its grained texture, the salmon is the stand-out for me. The dial is vertically brushed, with the hands and engraved indices in a contrasting off-black. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The 38.5mm case is entirely polished. It sits a bit thicker than I'd prefer for a watch like this, but it's still wearable. The thickness feels most noticeable in the steeply sloped rehaut, making the domed bezel sit higher a bit tall. At 45mm lug-to-lug, the proportions work well on my 6.25-inch wrist.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["5273afe3-fbf0-4ce1-867c-efde10e6eb9b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["fdd154fc-5979-474e-b98c-31b59af02caa","66c2f578-42be-4a8d-9231-e5edebe119e8"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Master Collection Small Seconds dial is beautiful and well-executed. The engraved Breguet numerals look sharp, and I'm not sure any other brand offers a similar aesthetic at this price point. Simply put, it's hard to think of a better-looking dial in a dress watch at this price. \n\nThe small seconds dial is snailed, offering a nice contrast to the brushed salmon dial. While salmon has been a hot dial color the past few years, this particular execution feels considered and thoughtful. The \"Automatic\" text at the top of the dial is small enough that it's not a huge distraction. The biggest potential design flaw, as I see it, is the way the subdial cuts off the \"7.\" I don't have an issue with cut-off numerals generally, but it feels a little unfair to 7 that \"5\" doesn't get the same treatment. At least, it leaves a slightly asymmetrical feeling.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The numerals and leaf hands are black and provide a nice contrast to the salmon dial.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4c6ab6ef-2359-4671-bf21-1aad875caa7b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ec82ee54-04c8-429e-897e-fdfcbbda2f27","efb554f7-6207-4481-97dd-10ca35bfb6b6"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The different textures of the three dial colors illustrate Longines' attention to detail with this collection. The anthracite dial has a granular finish that almost looks like a frosting in certain lights, providing a different texture to the dial. It gives this dial a more modern vibe, but the rose gold numerals and plated hands bring it back into the realm of dressy. I didn't see the silver dial, but it's the most traditional of the bunch, with a more finely-grained surface.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["07748a61-130a-4666-a97e-897d730b9897"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Master Collection Small Seconds uses the automatic Longines caliber L893, essentially an upgraded ETA 2892. It beats at 3.5 Hz and upgrades the ETA movement with a silicon hairspring. Also notable is the increased 72-hour power reserve, higher than the ETA's standard 42ish hours.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Small Seconds is nearly 1mm thicker than the 190th Anniversary edition, and much of this comes down to the movement. Moving from center seconds to small seconds requires some re-gearing. While the dial does feel more balanced with the small seconds, this is the slight tradeoff in wearability.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["c2641d38-9389-4076-897a-22bdcde8849b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The L893 is visible through a sapphire caseback, and looks predictably industrial. The typical refrain from enthusiasts at this price point is that a closed caseback would've been better, while granting that there's a supposed broader commercial demand to see the mechanical marvel that we, the enlightened enthusiasts, too often take for granted. I wonder if it's too much to ask for the option of either? Seeing a Longines caliber doesn't offend my sensibilities (make yourself decent, Longines!), but these sapphire casebacks often come at the cost of a case that wears slightly thicker.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Each of the Master Collection Small Seconds comes on a comfortable, padded alligator strap with a deployant, which means it's easy to get a perfect fit. That said, I'd like to normalize brands offering their dressier watches on more casual straps. I'd quickly throw this on a more casual calfskin or suede strap to dress it down more. But these are minor quibbles – the Master Collection Small Seconds is beautifully executed by Longines, and exactly the type of heritage inspiration infused in modern watchmaking that I love to see. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["42e56179-6a01-4b30-b07f-5fd59e2637f8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ccf906d9-05e8-40e0-b8ef-2c50e00caf3c","778248c2-823d-4f5f-8d1d-dd6257488bcf"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Whether you want a sporty or dressier watch, Longines basically has you covered in the $2,000 to $4,000 range. No doubt, there's competition for the Longines Master Collection Small Seconds. Nomos makes a range of killer watches for about $1,500 and up. It's hard to believe I'm saying this, but the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/did-raymond-weil-really-make-a-watch-for-watch-enthusiasts/" target=\"\">Raymond Weil Millesime</a> I recently reviewed is another legitimate alternative. Maybe an <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/oris-big-crown-pointer-date-roberto-clemente-limited-edition/" target=\"\">Oris Big Crown Pointer Date</a> for a slightly different vibe?","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9c782fc3-00ba-4739-8c00-445833b6a8bb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"But if you want a new, dressy watch from a Swiss brand with some heritage inspiration – along with real ties to that heritage – it's hard to think of anything much better than the Longines Master Collection Small Seconds. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Longines Master Collection Small Seconds has a stainless steel case measuring 38.5mm x 10.2mm, with 20mm lugs (45mm lug-to-lug). Offered in three dial colors: salmon, anthracite, and silver (refs. L2.843.4.93.2, L2.843.4.63.2, and L2.843.4.73.2). Longines caliber 893 beats at 3.5 Hz; features 72-hour power reserve and silicon hairspring. Sapphire caseback, 30 meters water resistance. MSRP: $2,500. For more, visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.longines.com/en-us/p/watch-longines-master-collection-l2-843-4-93-2/" target=\"_blank\">Longines.com</a>. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"Hodinkee is an authorized retailer of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/longines-brand/" target=\"_blank\">Longines watches</a>.","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hands-On Review Of The Longines Master Collection Small Seconds","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Anthony Traina","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":19,"slug":"the_value_proposition","name":"The Value Proposition","description":"","sort_order":14,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.195-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.511-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"60051c16-a316-493d-9d98-6e8f5ea16f05","container_id":13086,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/e441f192-7374-44ad-b3d9-6fe2b232e5a2/DSC_8924-Enhanced-NR.jpg","width":2048,"height":1152,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"longines master collection small seconds","created_at":"2024-02-06T14:01:32.245-05:00","updated_at":"2024-02-23T08:13:10.161-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/e441f192-7374-44ad-b3d9-6fe2b232e5a2/DSC_8924-Enhanced-NR.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-longines-master-collection-small-seconds","full_title":"The Value Proposition: The Longines Master Collection Small Seconds","tags":["longines","the-value-proposition","dress-watches","hands-on","new-watches-2020"]},{"id":13117,"slug":"talking-tastes-trends-and-elton-johns-watch-collection","column_slug":"hodinkee_radio","title":"Talking Tastes, Trends, And Elton John's Watch Collection","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-02-21T13:00:01.968-05:00","created_at":"2024-02-21T08:31:36.532-05:00","updated_at":"2024-02-21T13:01:21.308-05:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Ben and Malaika join to discuss how our tastes have changed before picking our surprise favorites from Sir Elton's eclectic collection. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":16923,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"Welcome back to Hodinkee Radio. After our 10-episode run of \"Ben Clymer Presents,\" we're happy to bring Hodinkee Radio back to a weekly show, publishing every Wednesday.\n\nJust like with Ben Clymer Presents, each episode will also have video, so swing by <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/hodinkee/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee's YouTube channel</a> (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/browse/hodinkee-radio/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee Radio</a> feed, so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find your podcasts (might we recommend <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"_blank\">Apple Podcasts</a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"\">,</a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/hodinkee-radio?refid=stpr\%22 target=\"_blank\">Stitcher</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://open.spotify.com/show/7uJbcyr8BrUU9uRb5W7tbd/" target=\"_blank\">Spotify</a>, or <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://tun.in/pi6n7/" target=\"_blank\">TuneIn</a>).","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"code":"<iframe height=\"200px\" width=\"100%\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\" seamless src=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://player.simplecast.com/15294eb2-33dd-41e2-a27b-ce52cfc1247d?dark=false\%22>%22},%22type%22:%22Block::Code%22},{%22data%22:{%22copy%22:%22

This week, I'm joined by Ben Clymer and Malaika Crawford. We're taking a look at one celebrity's watch collection, but we're using it to zoom out to talk more broadly about trends, tastes, and how they change over time. \n\nThe celebrity is the one and only Sir Elton John. Nearly 1,000 pieces of his estate are at auction at Christie's this month, including more than 30 watches. Malaika and I went to preview these watches a couple of weeks ago, and we both had a ton of fun. The collection is perfectly Elton – super loud, but also representative of classic watchmaking. It also somehow perfectly reflects where watch collecting is at in 2024. I couldn't help but feel that if his collection had appeared five years ago, watch nerds might not have cared as much. So, it got me thinking about how trends and tastes change, and how they're changing right now.\n\nOf course, our own Ben Clymer has been on the front lines observing, and, dare I say, even shaping these trends over the past 15 years. So Ben joins us to discuss tastes, trends, and Elton John.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Thanks to Accutron for supporting Hodinkee Radio. For more on the Accutron DNA Casino Collection, visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.accutronwatch.com//" target=\"_blank\">accutronwatch.com</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"kkR2gQByhhI","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"00:01: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.accutronwatch.com/us/en//" target=\"_blank\">Accutronwatch.com</a>\n\n00:44: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/elton-johns-cartier-crash-rolex-daytona-lead-sale-of-music-legends-eclectic-collection/" target=\"_blank\">Elton John's Cartier Crash, Leopard Daytona Lead Sale Of Music Legend's Eclectic Collection</a>\n\n1:35: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tripping-the-snow-fantastic-at-fat-ice-race-aspen/" target=\"_blank\">Photo Report: Tripping The Snow Fantastic At F.A.T. Ice Race Aspen</a>\n\n1:55: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/raul-pages-wins-the-first-louis-vuitton-watch-prize-for-independent-creatives/" target=\"_blank\">Raúl Pagès Wins the First Louis Vuitton Watch Prize For Independent Creatives</a>\n\n2:35: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-jean-arnault /" target=\"_blank\">Jean Arnault Talking Watches</a>\n\n3:25: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/one-to-watch-simon-brette /" target=\"_blank\">One To Watch: Simon Brette</a>\n\n3:42: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-h-moser-endeavour-perpetual-calendar-review/" target=\"_blank\">A Week On The Wrist: H. Moser Endeavor Perpetual Calendar</a>\n\n3:46: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/after-its-second-release-petermann-bedat-have-established-themselves-as-one-of-switzerlands-most-exc /" target=\"_blank\">One To Watch: Petermann Bedat</a>\n\n7:40: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/badartnicewatch/p/CZ1zU4Vrs1i/?img_index=1\%22 target=\"_blank\">Bad Art Nice Watch on Instagram</a>\n\n10:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-with-jean-claude-biver/" target=\"_blank\">Talking Watches with Jean Claude Biver</a>\n\n10:30: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-with-john-goldberger/" target=\"_blank\">Talking Watches With John Goldberger</a>\n\n11:35: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/5-hodinkee-editors-chat-about-paul-newmans-stuntman-jp-morgans-pocketwatch-and-watches-wed-actuall/" target=\"_blank\">Slack Auction Preview December 2022 (the \"Gyrotourbillon article\")</a>\n\n13:07: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/piaget-introduces-the-polo-79-a-golden-revival-of-the-80s/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The Piaget Polo 79</a>\n\n14:40: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/how-the-reverso-flipped-my-position-on-new-watches/" target=\"_blank\">The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute To 1931 </a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"14:44: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-master-control-sector-dials-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Collection With Sector Dials</a>\n\n17:38: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-collectors-guide-to-the-patek-philippe-nautilus-5711 /" target=\"_blank\">A Collector's Guide To The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711</a>\n\n18:30: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/video-talking-watches-with-john-mayer /" target=\"_blank\">John Mayer Talking Watches</a>\n\n18:50: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/paul-newman-rolex-daytona-auction-most-expensive-watch-ever/" target=\"_blank\">In-Depth: The Sale Of Paul Newman's Paul Newman Daytona</a>\n\n20:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-2-john-mayer /" target=\"_blank\">John Mayer Talking Watches 2</a>\n\n20:25: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/blogs/journal/vacheron-constantin-historiques-cornes-de-vache-1955-limited-edition-for-hodinkee /" target=\"_blank\">Vacheron Constantin Cornes De Vache for Hodinkee</a>\n\n22:55: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/taylor-swift-wearing-a-watch-necklace-to-the-grammys/" target=\"_blank\">Taylor Swift Wearing a Watch Necklace at the Grammys</a>\n\n35:18: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.accutronwatch.com/us/en//" target=\"\">Accutronwatch.com</a>\n\n41:30: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/watch-spotting-2024-grammy-awards/" target=\"_blank\">Luke Combs Wearing A Lange 1 At The Grammys</a>\n\n42:36: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/wizards-era-michael-jordan-sporting-an-a-lange-and-sohne-datograph /" target=\"_blank\">Michael Jordan Wearing A Lange Datograph</a>\n\n44:14: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://instagram.com/johnson167 /" target=\"_blank\">Watch dealer Johnson167 on Instagram</a>\n\n47:10: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-lange-sohne-saxonia-thin-37mm-week-on-the-wrist /" target=\"_blank\">A Week On The Wrist: Lange Saxonia Thin</a>\n\n48:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/three-on-three-manual-dress-watch /" target=\"_blank\">Three On Three: Manual-Wind Dress Watches From Lange, Journe, and Vacheron</a>\n\n48:54: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-cartier-santos-dumont-mixes-color-and-metal-to-perfection /" target=\"_blank\">Cartier Santos Dumont With Enamel Bezels</a>\n\n49:50: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/week-on-the-wrist-cartier-crash /" target=\"_blank\">A Week On The Wrist: Cartier Crash</a>\n\n50:18: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-1967-london-cartier-crash-just-became-the-costliest-crash-ever-for-now /" target=\"_blank\">Original Cartier Crash from Cartier London</a>\n\n51:08: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-black-dial-tank-louis-cartier-isnt-a-must-but-its-still-a-must /" target=\"_blank\">Cartier Tank Louis With Black Dial</a>\n\n53:10: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/products/a-lange-sohne-saxonia-307-032-10-10-als-k098ep /" target=\"_blank\">Lange Saxonia Thin In The Hodinkee Shop</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hodinkee Radio: Talking Tastes, Trends, And Elton John's Watch Collection","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Vic Ottomanelli","artist_type":"video_editor","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":59,"slug":"hodinkee_radio","name":"HODINKEE Radio","description":"A weekly podcast hosted by James Stacey that features a chat between a collection of Hodinkee personalities (generally our own editors), focusing on noteworthy/popular topics and stories within the watch world. Unlike with the previous iteration of this show, Hodinkee Radio is no longer an interview show but rather functions more like a depth-adding panel discussion to support the editorial calendar and bring the audience into the sorts of conversations common among the editors.","sort_order":4,"created_at":"2018-07-10T13:23:42.305-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.468-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"37d80a43-a12f-44b2-8136-73c475df029b","container_id":13117,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/26ed006e-1a0d-4844-a072-28e52a1ede57/H-Radio-Article-Hero-003.jpg","width":2880,"height":1680,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"hodinkee radio elton john","created_at":"2024-02-21T08:31:36.593-05:00","updated_at":"2024-02-21T12:48:13.557-05:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/26ed006e-1a0d-4844-a072-28e52a1ede57/H-Radio-Article-Hero-003.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-tastes-trends-and-elton-johns-watch-collection","full_title":"HODINKEE Radio: Talking Tastes, Trends, And Elton John's Watch Collection","tags":["hodinkee-radio"]}]}">