Editor — Anthony Traina

%22},%22type%22:%22Block::Code%22},{%22data%22:{%22copy%22:%22

It's our last day at Watches & Wonders in Geneva, so we're recapping everything we saw. We talk about the best watches we saw all week, the best watches under $10,000, drop some of our spiciest takes, and then all of us – all seven of us – pick one watch we saw that we'd purchase, money no object.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Thanks to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://lucidmotors.com//" target=\"_blank\">Lucid Motors</a> for sponsoring this week's live recordings of Hodinkee Radio from Geneva.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"3PE-Z3q-yfI","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Best Things We Saw:\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bulgari-sets-a-new-record-again-for-the-worlds-thinnest-watch-with-the-new-octo-finissimo-ultra/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: Bulgari Sets A New Record (Again) For The World's Thinnest Watch With The New Octo Finissimo Ultra</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-piaget-altiplano-concept-tourbillon-the-worlds-thinnest-tourbillon/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The Piaget Altiplano Concept Tourbillon, The World's Thinnest Tourbillon (Live Pics)</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-chopard-luc-quattro-spirit-25/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-chopard-alpine-eagle-xp-tt-brings-titanium-and-open-working-to-the-ultra-slim-watch-live-pics/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The Chopard Alpine Eagle XP TT Brings Titanium And Open-Working To The Ultra Slim Watch (Live Pics)</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-cartier-mini-tank-keeps-small-watch-fever-burning/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: The Cartier Tank Mini Keeps Small Watch Fever Burning</a>\n\nBest Watches Under $10,000:\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hermes-launches-the-cut-a-sport-watch-for-women/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: Hermès Launches 'The Cut,' A Sport Watch For Women</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-black-bay-58-gmt/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-tudor-black-bay-goes-monochrome/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The New Tudor Black Bay Goes Monochrome</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-doxa-sub-200t-a-smaller-take-on-the-classic-doxa-design/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The Doxa Sub 200T – A Smaller Take On The Classic Doxa Design</a>\n\nBiggest Surprise Of The Week:\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-cartier-santos-dumont-rewind/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: How Long Would It Take To Tell The Time Backwards On The Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind? Only Time Will Tell, If You Ever Can Tell The Time.</a>\n\nThe One Watch We'd Buy:\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/breitling-designer-sylvain-berneron-sets-out-to-explore-asymmetry-on-his-own/" target=\"_blank\">One To Watch: Breitling Designer Sylvain Berneron Sets Out To Explore Asymmetry On His Own</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-datograph-perpetual-tourbillon-honeygold-lumen/" target=\"_blank\">A. Lange & Söhne Makes The First Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon In Honeygold – And It's A 'Lumen' (Live Pics)</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-patek-philippe-5330g-world-time-thats-a-low-key-world-first-too/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: The Patek Philippe 5330G World Time That's A Low-Key World First, Too</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-seemingly-and-quitely-announced-a-new-date-date-40-in-everose-gold-for-the-2024-academy-awards/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: Rolex Quietly Announced A New Day-Date 40 In Everose Gold For The 2024 Academy Awards</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-rexhep-rexhepi-cc2-ruby/" target=\"\">Introducing: The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II With Ruby Indices, Limited To Ten Pieces</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-gronefeld-1941-gronograaf-the-first-ever-chronograph-from-the-gronefeld-brothers/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The Grönefeld 1941 Grönograaf, The First-Ever Chronograph From The Grönefeld Brothers</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Day 3 – Hermès, Cartier, Oris, Chopard, And More"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"code":"<iframe height=\"200px\" width=\"100%\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\" seamless src=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://player.simplecast.com/c06124bf-c458-41fc-8a8d-49f1090a3c87?dark=false\%22>%22},%22type%22:%22Block::Code%22},{%22data%22:{%22copy%22:%22

Three days into the show and we're all a bit slap happy and talking about some of our favorite novelties from Hermès, Cartier, Oris, Chopard, and Parmigiani. We also talk a bit about the general mood of the show, which we'll discuss more on our final show tomorrow. But first, we talk about: Hermès' new ladies' watch and whether it's actually a ladies' watch; Oris' new Aquis and why the lack of any mega releases might actually be the best thing for the Swiss watch industry; and we finish with dress watches from Chopard and Parmigiani Fleurier's update of the Toric collection.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Thanks to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://lucidmotors.com//" target=\"_blank\">Lucid Motors</a> for sponsoring this week's live recordings of Hodinkee Radio from Geneva.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"ZTMXC_7keP8","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Hermes:\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hermes-launches-the-cut-a-sport-watch-for-women/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: Hermès Launches 'The Cut,' A Sport Watch For Women</a>\n\nOris:\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-next-generation-oris-aquis-date/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The Next-Generation Oris Aquis Date</a>\n\nCartier:\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZsJPz9_GLs\%22 target=\"_blank\">A preview of the new Cartier Tank lineup including the mini Tank Louis and Americaine</a> (Instagram)\n\nChopard:\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/chopard-brings-a-touch-of-heritage-to-the-luc-xps-with-a-new-forest-green-sector-dial/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: Chopard Brings A Touch Of Heritage To The L.U.C XPS With A New 'Forest Green' Sector Dial</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-chopard-alpine-eagle-xp-tt-brings-titanium-and-open-working-to-the-ultra-slim-watch-live-pics/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The Chopard Alpine Eagle XP TT Brings Titanium And Open-Working To The Ultra Slim Watch (Live Pics)</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-chopard-luc-qualite-fleurier-in-lucent-steel/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier In Lucent Steel</a>\n\nParmigiani:\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.parmigiani.com/en/watches-and-wonders-2024//" target=\"_blank\">The new Parmigiani Toric collection</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Day 2 – Cartier, TAG Heuer, Grand Seiko, And More"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"code":"<iframe height=\"200px\" width=\"100%\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\" seamless src=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://player.simplecast.com/b4bf0ee7-a5ff-42c1-8070-355461b59d77?dark=false\%22>%22},%22type%22:%22Block::Code%22},{%22data%22:{%22copy%22:%22

On day two, we talk about all of the watches we went hands on with during appointments with Cartier, TAG Heuer, Grand Seiko, IWC, Lange – and even the world's new most complicated watch from Vacheron Constantin.\n\nThanks to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://lucidmotors.com//" target=\"_blank\">Lucid Motors</a> for sponsoring this week's live recordings of Hodinkee Radio from Geneva.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"PD0e_GhVscc","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Cartier:\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-cartier-tortue-is-back-and-as-a-monopusher-chronograph/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The Cartier Tortue Is Back – And As A Monopusher Chronograph</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-cartier-santos-dumont-that-tells-time-backwards-you-read-that-right/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The Cartier Santos Dumont That Tells Time Backwards (You Read That Right)</a>\n\nTAG Heuer:\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tag-heuer-celebrates-55-years-of-its-square-chrono-with-the-new-monaco-split-seconds/" target=\"_blank\">TAG Heuer Celebrates 55 Years Of Its Square Chrono With The New Monaco Split-Seconds</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tag-heuer-carrera-skipper-in-gold/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper In Gold</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-heuer-7753sn-inspired-tag-heuer-carrera-glassbox-panda-with-a-steel-bracelet/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The Heuer 7753SN-Inspired TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox 'Panda' (With A Steel Bracelet!)</a>\n\nGrand Seiko:\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/two-years-after-making-history-the-grand-seiko-kodo-constant-force-tourbillon-returns-in-daylight-fo/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: Two Years After Making History, The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon Returns In 'Daylight' Form</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-grand-seiko-slgw002-slgw003/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: Grand Seiko's New SLGW002 And SLGW003 'White Birch' With A Brand-New Manual Hi-Beat Movement (Live Pics)</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-grand-seiko-chronograph-gmt-sbgc275/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: Grand Seiko's New Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC275 Has A Dial That Changes Colors With The Light (Live Pics)</a>\n\nIWC:\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-iwc-portugieser-perpetual-calendar/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: IWC Combines Their Core Design Language With An Updated Case In Their New Portugieser Perpetual Calendar</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-iwc-eternal-calendar/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: IWC's Portugieser Eternal Calendar, Its First Secular Perpetual Calendar With The Most Accurate Moonphase Ever</a>\n\nVacheron Constantin:\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-vacheron-constantin-berkley-grand-complication/" target=\"_blank\">The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers 'Berkley Grand Complication,' With 63 Complications, Is The New Most Complicated Watch In The World</a>\n\nLange:\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-datograph-perpetual-tourbillon-honeygold-lumen/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: A. Lange & Söhne Makes The First Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon In Honeygold – And It's A 'Lumen' (Live Pics)</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Day 1 – Rolex, Patek Philippe, Tudor"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"code":"<iframe height=\"200px\" width=\"100%\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\" seamless src=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://player.simplecast.com/b9c64008-3ade-49f0-9499-90a201e5eb3e?dark=false\%22>\r\n%22},%22type%22:%22Block::Code%22},{%22data%22:{%22copy%22:%22

In our first episode from Geneva, Ben, Danny, and Malaika join me to discuss new releases from Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Tudor. GMTs headline the novelties from Rolex and Tudor. Rolex has brought its black-and-grey bezel to a steel GMT, while Tudor gave what so many have asked for – a Black Bay 58 GMT. We also talk about what it means that it's a slower year for Rolex, that Tudor is becoming the Black Bay brand, and the new complicated stuff from Patek. We start it all off by chatting about the Le Mans Daytona in white gold (now discontinued!) and yellow gold (new!).\n\nThanks to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://lucidmotors.com//" target=\"_blank\">Lucid Motors</a> for sponsoring this week's live recordings of Hodinkee Radio from Geneva. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"_3rfCfin3tU","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Rolex:\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-white-gold-rolex-le-mans-daytona-is-discontinued/" target=\"_blank\">The White Gold Rolex 'Le Mans' Daytona Is Discontinued</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-rolex-gmt-2024/" target=\"_blank\">The Rolex GMT-Master II With Grey And Black Ceramic Bezel</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-deepsea-goes-full-gold-and-blue/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The Rolex Deepsea Goes Full Gold (And Blue)</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-adds-a-platinum-model-to-its-dressy-perpetual-1908-collection/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: Rolex Adds A Platinum Model To Its Dressy Perpetual 1908 Collection</a>\n\nTudor:\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-black-bay-58-gmt/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tudor-black-bay-58-in-yellow-gold-now-with-gold-bracelet/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay 58 In Yellow Gold, Now With Gold Bracelet</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-new-tudor-black-bay-goes-monochrome/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The New Tudor Black Bay Goes Monochrome</a>\n\nPatek Philippe:\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-5236p-010-in-line-perpetual-calendar-now-with-salmon-dial/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: The Patek Philippe 5236P-010 In-Line Perpetual Calendar, Now With Salmon Dial</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-golden-ellipse-is-back-on-bracelet/" target=\"_blank\">The Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Is Back On Bracelet</a>\n\n<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-patek-aquanaut-travel-time-white-gold/" target=\"_blank\">Patek Philippe Brings Back The Aquanaut Travel Time In White Gold</a>\n\nPatek's \"denim\" straps in the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-patek-philippe-5980g/" target=\"_blank\">new Nautilus 5980</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-brings-the-first-non-limited-world-time-with-a-local-date-to-its-catalog/" target=\"_blank\">World Time 5330</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Joe Wyatt","artist_type":"video_editor","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":59,"slug":"hodinkee_radio","name":"HODINKEE Radio","description":"A weekly podcast hosted by James Stacey that features a chat between a collection of Hodinkee personalities (generally our own editors), focusing on noteworthy/popular topics and stories within the watch world. Unlike with the previous iteration of this show, Hodinkee Radio is no longer an interview show but rather functions more like a depth-adding panel discussion to support the editorial calendar and bring the audience into the sorts of conversations common among the editors.","sort_order":4,"created_at":"2018-07-10T13:23:42.305-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.468-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"b710db93-c4bd-4866-92de-5a6065302db2","container_id":13253,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/acc90085-8a87-4b4f-90e6-afc9888127c6/Frame4.jpg","width":3840,"height":2160,"format":"jpeg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"hodinkee watches and wonders 2024 coverage","created_at":"2024-04-04T17:33:43.674-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-12T19:10:06.818-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/acc90085-8a87-4b4f-90e6-afc9888127c6/Frame4.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/watches-and-wonders-2024-daily-episodes-live-from-geneva","full_title":"HODINKEE Radio: Watches & Wonders 2024: Daily Episodes Live From Geneva","tags":["rolex","patek-philippe","tudor","hodinkee-radio","watches-and-wonders-2024"]},{"id":13293,"slug":"rolex-adds-a-platinum-model-to-its-dressy-perpetual-1908-collection","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"Rolex Adds A Platinum Model To Its Dressy Perpetual 1908 Collection","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-04-09T04:46:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-04-09T04:17:30.528-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-09T05:34:03.292-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"A textured dial and platinum case add some intrigue to the Crown's newest collection.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":35512,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":false,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"After introducing the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-perpetual-1908-might-just-be-the-dressy-rolex-weve-been-waiting-for/" target=\"_blank\">Perpetual 1908 collection</a> last year, Rolex is adding a platinum case and \"rice-grain\" dial to its new dressy collection. While Rolex kept it traditional with last year's releases, the platinum 1908 looks to make a bolder statement.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3918aa82-fa25-4870-88c8-a0603024bbbd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Last year, Rolex introduced the 1908 collection as its dressed-up replacement for the Cellini, with a quartet of simple yellow and white gold models with silver or black dials. Now, it's introducing a platinum 1908; in typical Rolex fashion, it's paired with an icy-blue dial with what it calls a \"rice-grain\" motif. It's on a brown alligator strap with the same inner green lining seen on last year's 1908 straps. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["47dff7d1-0061-43f6-abc4-e4be0da5c425"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"According to Rolex, the dial is engine turned (guilloché), using an engraver to sculpt a pattern onto the dial blank. It shows how Rolex \"has set for the Perpetual collection as a tribute to the classic art of watchmaking.\" The numerals, small seconds, and hour markers are the same as those seen in last year's gold versions. The platinum case measures 39mm and 9.5mm thick. Visible through the nude caseback is the same Rolex caliber 7140 with a gold rotor. It's an automatic movement with silicon Syloxi hairspring and a 66-hour power reserve that's accurate to Rolex's superlative standard, -2/+2 per day after casing. \n\nThe platinum Perpetual 1908 measures has an MSRP of CHF 29,600","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0c0f9e8f-7b75-4f32-9163-58a882c21194"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"While I was excited by last year's introduction of the Perpetual 1908 collection, it felt like it merely laid the foundation for what a new dress watch lineup from Rolex could be. Since the 39mm watch is mostly dial, it felt a bit expansive. The new guilloche \"rice-grain\" motif fills all that space in, and I'm excited to see what the textured pattern actually looks like in person. \n\nBeyond that, I'm intrigued by Rolex's messaging of the 1908 as \"a tribute to the classic art of watchmaking.\" If this is the direction in which 1908 is going, it has a lot of potential: complications, craftsmanship, and more. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["68abf7bd-5b27-4e3e-b3d1-aaab4f2bc205"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Rolex Model: Perpetual 1908 Reference Number: Ref. 52506\n\nDiameter: 39mm Thickness: 9.5mm Lug width: 20mm Case Material: 950 Platinum Dial Color: Ice blue Water Resistance: 50 meters Strap/Bracelet: Brown gator with platinum Dualclasp","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: Rolex 7140 Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds Power Reserve: 66 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28, 800 VPH Jewels: 38 Chronometer Certified: Yes, Rolex Superlative (-2/+2 seconds per day)","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: CHF 29,600 \n\nFor more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rolex.com/en-us/watches/1908/m52506-0002/" target=\"_blank\">click here.</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Review of the Rolex 1908 Dress WatchIn Platinum","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"16c0ad19-1750-4181-a20e-47ef11f603e6","container_id":13293,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/0eab06e1-0c45-43bf-a706-e33ab5aedb38/rolex-1908-plat-hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"rolex 1908 plat","created_at":"2024-04-09T04:17:30.581-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-09T04:18:02.365-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/0eab06e1-0c45-43bf-a706-e33ab5aedb38/rolex-1908-plat-hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-adds-a-platinum-model-to-its-dressy-perpetual-1908-collection","full_title":"Introducing: Rolex Adds A Platinum Model To Its Dressy Perpetual 1908 Collection","tags":["patek-philippe","introducing","new-watches-2024","watches-and-wonders-2024"]},{"id":13291,"slug":"patek-philippe-brings-the-first-non-limited-world-time-with-a-local-date-to-its-catalog","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"Patek Philippe Brings The First (Non-Limited) World Time With A Local Date To Its Catalog","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-04-09T04:07:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-04-09T03:54:11.371-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-10T06:35:30.087-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"After a limited introduction in Tokyo, the 5330G.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":21227,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"After introducing the limited-edition World Time 5330G at last year's Tokyo Grand Exhibition, Patek Philippe is bringing the reference to general production with a blue-grey dial. The 5330G features Patek's caliber 240 HU C, a movement that adds a local date to the world time complication. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f443c3b8-2ff3-4f2b-82b1-0489ea28ccef"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Patek may not have invented the world timer, but it's become associated with the brand over the years. The 5330G has a polished white gold case measuring 40x11.57mm – it's a bit of vintage-inspired case with stepped lugs. The dial is a blue-grey opaline with a carbon pattern. The date is indicated with a glass pointer tipped in red. \n\nInside is the Patek caliber 240 HU C, the movement Patek introduced in the limited edition 5330G for last year's Tokyo Exhibition. It's a world time with 24-hour day/night indication for each time zone, but it's most notable for being the first world time that times a date to the local (12-hour) time of the movement. \n\nThe 5330G has a retail of $76,594. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["796a2846-76ac-43c2-b0b7-b8a9171676a3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f2952bd0-2e56-4b32-82a3-2273424c3415","7f87b200-44c1-4eea-af0f-c2e016017e45"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Patek's introduced a bevy of world and travel times this year, but the 5330G should grab attention as a legitimate, new reference to Patek's general catalog. It was introduced in a limited edition of 300 for the Japanese market around the Grand Exhibition in 2023, so it's not an unexpected introduction. The 5330G looks well executed, taking dial inspiration from <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-ref-6007a-001-calatrava-celebrating-the-new-manufacture-in-geneva-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">the 6007G</a>. The denim-style strap also dresses down the world time to make it fit for a Canadian.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Patek Philippe Model: World Time Reference Number: 5330G-001\n\nDiameter: 40mm Thickness: 11.57mm Case Material: White gold Dial Color: Opaline blue with carbon pattern Indexes: White gold applied markers Lume: White luminscent Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Calfskin, hand-stitched, denim pattern, blue-gray with gold fold-over clasp","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f9b3b4e4-80c9-4cea-83c9-3b6d4bf83a02"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: Patek caliber 240 HU C Functions: World time with local date; day/night indication for all 24-hour time zones Diameter: 30.5mm Power Reserve: 38-48 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 3 Hertz Additional Details: First world time caliber with a date indexed to local time","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: $76,594\n\nFor more, see <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.patek.com/en/collection/complications/5330G-001/" target=\"_blank\">the Patek Philippe 5330G site</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Review Of The Patek Philippe 5330G World Time","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"ec5a0fe2-fa36-4bcb-a972-56327a7e237e","container_id":13291,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/bdd97c34-8eac-4730-8133-0e072e1c95d6/PP_5330G_001_lifestyle_165957_50133.jpg","width":1234,"height":882,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"patek 5330G world time","created_at":"2024-04-09T03:54:11.494-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-09T03:54:11.494-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/bdd97c34-8eac-4730-8133-0e072e1c95d6/PP_5330G_001_lifestyle_165957_50133.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-brings-the-first-non-limited-world-time-with-a-local-date-to-its-catalog","full_title":"Introducing: Patek Philippe Brings The First (Non-Limited) World Time With A Local Date To Its Catalog","tags":["patek-philippe","introducing","new-watches-2024","watches-and-wonders-2024"]},{"id":13284,"slug":"tudor-black-bay-58-in-yellow-gold-now-with-gold-bracelet","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"The Tudor Black Bay 58 In Yellow Gold, Now With Gold Bracelet","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-04-09T03:13:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-04-09T02:07:23.884-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-09T04:25:24.550-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Three years after giving us a gold Black Bay 58, Tudor completes the look. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":30202,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Three years after introducing a Black Bay 58 in gold, Tudor has gone all the way, adding an 18-carat gold bracelet. It's the same green bezel and dial as the existing gold, but now Tudor's given it the all-gold treatment that many have been asking for. And yep, it's got Tudor's micro-adjusting T-fit clasp, and it looks like it shed the faux rivets. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1a0df17d-a675-4b1f-b5ed-4f6122ea28fe"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The case and bracelet are fully matte and satin-finished, with the Black Bay 58's familiar 39mm diameter. Like the silver and gold 58 introduced in 2021, it has a nude caseback. Inside is Tudor's manufacture caliber MT5400, its COSC-certified movement with a 70-hour power reserve. \n\nThe new Tudor Black Bay 58 in 18K yellow gold has an MSRP of $32,100. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d8e4398f-f9f6-4525-bbda-418712baad55"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"When James reviewed the 18K Black Bay 58 a few years ago, he said it had \"less charisma\" than he'd hoped, specifically saying that, without a matched bracelet, it didn't speak to him. He wasn't alone in this sentiment – while it was cool that Tudor (Tudor?!) was making a dive watch in gold (and silver), it felt a little incomplete.\n\nWell, not anymore. The 18K, satin-finished bracelet finishes what Tudor started three years ago, and I can't wait to put this big chunk of yellow gold on my wrist – if I can pull it off Malaika's wrist, that is. A full hands-on coming from her soon, I guarantee it! ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d4bc544d-cc14-48c7-9203-3b9508c63a02"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Tudor Model: Black Bay 58 Reference Number: 79018V\n\nDiameter: 39mm Case Material: 18ct yellow gold Dial Color: Matte green Indexes: Applied Lume: Super-LumiNova Water Resistance: 200 meters Strap/Bracelet: 18ct yellow gold with T-fit clasp","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ec141c19-f2be-42bb-a37a-689fe208b2cb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: Manufacture caliber MT5400 Diameter: 30.3mm Thickness: 5mm Power Reserve: 70 hours Winding: Automatic Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour Chronometer Certified: Yes","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: $32,100\n\nFor more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.tudorwatch.com/en/reveal/" target=\"_blank\">visit Tudor's website</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Review Of The Tudor Black Bay 58 Gold With Bracelet","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"fe2054ef-d60c-4f4e-8954-94b1d15a8618","container_id":13284,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/dea0430b-1017-4ffa-84fb-e522037286ca/T24_PRO_M79018V-0006_046.jpg","width":2048,"height":1152,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"tudor black bay 58 gold bracelet","created_at":"2024-04-09T02:07:23.957-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-09T03:12:06.633-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/dea0430b-1017-4ffa-84fb-e522037286ca/T24_PRO_M79018V-0006_046.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tudor-black-bay-58-in-yellow-gold-now-with-gold-bracelet","full_title":"Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay 58 In Yellow Gold, Now With Gold Bracelet","tags":["tudor","introducing","new-watches-2024","watches-and-wonders-2024"]},{"id":13250,"slug":"the-chopard-luc-qualite-fleurier-in-lucent-steel","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"The Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier In Lucent Steel","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-04-09T02:32:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-04-04T14:29:37.753-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-09T05:00:25.845-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Chopard's super-certified collection, in steel for the first time. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":13343,"public_token":"089e6bafc2e88064eef8698b12381d04","notification_sent":false,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"For the first time, Chopard is bringing Lucent Steel to its L.U.C Qualité Fleurier collection. Inspired by the first Qualité Fleurier from 2005, it's a suitable, subdued addition to the lineup. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The L.U.C Qualité Fleurier Lucent Steel measures 39mm and 8.9mm thick and features a silvery sector dial with contrasting sunburst and satin finishes. The case also has a mix of polished and brushed finishes, with a satin-finished midcase. There's no date and a snailed small seconds at 6 o'clock. The syringe hands are a traditional feature of the Qualité Fleurier collection and are filled with lume.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0673eb77-893b-4e9c-9c23-313e1b65911a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Qualité Fleurier collection is named for the enhanced testing process that all its watches go through. The process takes chronometer-certified movements and then puts them through a series of additional tests to cover quality, shock resistance, and precision. The movements are put through an additional series of tests involving hot, cold, and wet conditions, as well as magnetic field exposure. The caliber is also fully cased up and again tested for accuracy. To qualify for the Qualité Fleurier certificate, each assembled watch must be 0/+5 per day. Learn more about the independent Fleurier Quality Foundation on <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.fleurier-quality.com//" target=\"_blank\">its website</a>. The Foundation was established in 2001 by Chopard, Parmigiani, Vaucher, and Bovet, all of whom submit select watches for certification. \n\nThe Qualité Fleurier in Lucent Steel uses Chopard's caliber L.U.C 96.09-L, its classic twin-barrel, micro-rotor movement with a 65-hour power reserve. The finely finished movement is visible through a sapphire caseback. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["073ea9bf-714e-4923-82f4-27820c97e823"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The L.U.C Qualité Fleurier illustrates so much of what Chopard continues to get right about watchmaking. It's low-key, top-notch watchmaking, and it doesn't shout about it from the rooftops.\n\nThe Lucent Steel addition to the Qualité Fleurier collection looks well-executed, subtle, and monochromatic, with just enough contrast in the varying textures of the dial. Maybe I'd prefer if the 39mm was more like a 36.5mm, like <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/chopard-luc-1860-in-lucent-steel/" target=\"_blank\">last year's L.U.C 1860</a>, but at just 8.92mm, I'm excited to see how this wears in person. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["18f8406b-69db-4ffe-8dbc-09fb95b99cab"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Chopard Model: L.U.C Qualité Fleurier Reference Number: 168631-3001\n\nDiameter: 39mm Thickness: 8.9mm Case Material: Lucent Steel Dial Color: Silver with sunburst and satin-brushed center, circular satin-finish chapter ring Indexes: Rhodium-plated applied hour markers Lume: Super-LumiNova above indices and hands Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Brown calfskin leather with beige bridle stitch; steel pink buckle","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f3f41f12-06e0-4afb-bc29-56ab5670a5c4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: L.U.C 96.09-L Functions: Time only Diameter: 27.4mm Thickness: 3.3m Power Reserve: 65 hours Winding: Automatic, micro-rotor Frequency: 26,800 beats per hour Jewels: 29 Chronometer Certified: Yes, COSC certified Additional Details: Twin barrel; COSC certified and additional Qualité Fleurier certification","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: CHF 19,300\n\nFor more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.chopard.com/en-us/watches-men-luc/" target=\"_blank\">view Chopard's L.U.C collection</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"Hodinkee is an authorized dealer for Chopard, click <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://shop.hodinkee.com/collections/chopard-brand/" target=\"_blank\">here to see what's in the Hodinkee Shop</a>.","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Introducing the Chopard L.U.C Qualite Fleurier in Lucent Steel","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"18aa4a04-22fd-42cc-ac8e-8de14d3f4ae6","container_id":13250,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/9d0f80d7-e9a7-4e91-92c3-d1d7e3879b9e/R0000145.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpeg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"chopard luc qualite fleurier","created_at":"2024-04-04T14:29:37.855-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-09T04:58:22.119-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/9d0f80d7-e9a7-4e91-92c3-d1d7e3879b9e/R0000145.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-chopard-luc-qualite-fleurier-in-lucent-steel","full_title":"Introducing: The Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier In Lucent Steel","tags":["chopard","introducing","new-watches-2024","watches-and-wonders-2024"]},{"id":13229,"slug":"jaeger-lecoultre-duometre-chronograph-moon-leads-a-trio-of-updates-to-its-complicated-collection","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon Leads A Trio Of Updates To Its Complicated Collection","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-04-09T02:31:09.976-04:00","created_at":"2024-04-01T17:39:29.007-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-09T02:31:10.022-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"JLC combines a chronograph and moonphase in its innovative model defined by its two independent gear trains. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":16743,"public_token":"2034d61c06fc2d12a575d9d9e617e57e","notification_sent":false,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"When Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Duometre collection in 2007, it was groundbreaking for its use of two separate barrels and independent gear trains, one for keeping time and one for powering the complications. This year, JLC has updated the Duometre with a trio of new watches, headlined by the Duometre Chronograph Moon. Offered in platinum with a copper dial or rose gold with a silver opaline dial, the Chronograph Moon builds on previous versions of the Duometre with the new JLC caliber 391 that powers a chronograph, moonphase, day-night indicator, and a 1/6th-second counter. \n\nIn addition to the Duometre Chronograph Moon, JLC is also adding two more watches to the Duometre lineup: a new Quantimeme Lunaire and Heliotourbillon Perpetual. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["290e702b-15b6-4d76-a066-79e78f7e839f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Let's focus on the Duometre Chrono Moon. The caliber 391 builds on previous iterations of the Duometre to arrive at a monopusher chronograph that's combined with a moonphase and day-night complication, along with two power reserve indicators and a flying seconds display. What's innovative about the Duometre remains: two separate barrels and independent mainsprings drive the timekeeping and complications, but they're integrated into a single caliber and escapement. The flying seconds begins spinning when the chronograph is activated, allowing timing to 1/6th of a second. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The caliber 391 is visible through the partially open-worked dial and fully visible through a sapphire caseback. It shows that portions of the movement have been open-worked, which JLC says makes for easier assembly. The movement looks to display a variety of finishes, including Geneva stripes sunrayed Geneva stripes. The manual wind movement has 50 hours of power reserve (in each barrel) and beats at 3 Hz. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1517051e-1221-4028-8e13-b6abfc88aec9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Duometre Chronograph Moon case measures 42.5 x 14.2 mm thick and is made of 34 components, including lugs that have been screwed into the case. It features a mix of polished, brushed, and micro-blasted surfaces and is water resistant to 50 meters. \n\nThe Duometre Chronograph Moon in platinum has an MSRP of $86,000, while the pink gold is $70,000. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"But wait, there's more! Alongside the Duometre Chrono Moon, JLC has also updated the Quantieme Lunaire. It uses the same caliber 381 that we've seen in previous versions of the watch, but now it's in a new steel case – updated to bring it in line with the Chrono Moon's case – along with a blue opaline dial. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["23989f91-b129-4a19-b145-2aad66d47690"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Finally, as if that wasn't complicated enough, Jaeger-LeCoultre is introducing a Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual Calendar. The Heliotourbillon takes the original idea behind the Gyrotourbillon, which was designed to compensate for the effect of gravity at every position, to the extreme. Fitted with a cylindrical hairspring, it has three titanium cages rotating on three axes: the first cage is set at a 90-degree angle to the balance wheel and rotates perpendicular to it; the second is set at 90 degrees to the first; the third is perpendicular to the second and makes a full rotation every 60 seconds. This is all supported by ceramic ball bearings and made of 163 components. The Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual is limited to 20 pieces with an MSRP of $438,000. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3f074039-1dd0-4736-b718-a1fd168ddffc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"This year, Jaeger-LeCoultre is partying like it's 2007. I love JLC, and last year's <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-jaeger-lecoultre-reverso-tribute-chronograph-2/" target=\"_blank\">Reverso Chronograph</a> was one of my favorite watches coming out of Watches & Wonders. While a watch like the Duometre Chronograph Moon might not get enthusiasts as excited, it's this type of watchmaking that makes a watch like that so appealing. The caliber 391 builds on the cal. 381 (seen in the existing Quantieme Lunaire, including this year's addition to the lineup) by combining a chronograph and moonphase complication, along with a few other goodies.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Duometre isn't the Reverso or Polaris or the Master Collection, but that's just fine. It's great for what it is: complicated watchmaking for its own sake, and something that few large brands do better than Jaeger-LeCoultre, whether in 1924 or 2024. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultre Model: Duometre Chronograph Moon Reference Number: Q622252J (pink gold); Q622656J (platinum)\n\nDiameter: 42.5mm Thickness: 14.2mm Case Material: Platinum or pink gold Dial Color: Copper opaline (platinum); silver opaline (pink gold) Water Resistance: 50 meters Strap/Bracelet: Alligator","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: JLC caliber 391 Functions: Chronograph with 12-hour and 60-minute counter; 1/6th flying second indicator; moonphase; day-night indicator; two power reserve indicators Power Reserve: 50 hours (per barrel) Winding: Manual Frequency: 3 Hz Jewels: 47 Additional Details: Duometre caliber has two separate barrels and two independent gear trains that separately drive the watch's timekeeping and the complications ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: $70,000 (pink gold); $86,000 (platinum) Limited Edition: No\n\nFor more, visit Jaeger-LeCoultre's <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.jaeger-lecoultre.com/us-en/" target=\"_blank\">website</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces New Duometres For 2024","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"6e383842-9bf4-4f3a-a213-d39183f3cfc4","container_id":13229,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/3d8de973-efb9-49c6-8a66-522bd60b9bf3/2024_THEPRECISIONMAKER_Q622656J_DUO_CHRONOMOON_LEVITATION_KV_16-9.jpg","width":8075,"height":4542,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"jaeger-lecoultre duometre chronograph moon 2024","created_at":"2024-04-01T17:39:29.113-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-01T17:39:29.113-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/3d8de973-efb9-49c6-8a66-522bd60b9bf3/2024_THEPRECISIONMAKER_Q622656J_DUO_CHRONOMOON_LEVITATION_KV_16-9.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/jaeger-lecoultre-duometre-chronograph-moon-leads-a-trio-of-updates-to-its-complicated-collection","full_title":"Introducing: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon Leads A Trio Of Updates To Its Complicated Collection","tags":["jaeger-lecoultre","new-watches-2024","watches-and-wonders-2024"]},{"id":13259,"slug":"bulgari-blacks-out-its-octo-roma-with-a-new-dlc-coated-auto-and-chronograph","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"Bulgari Blacks Out Its Octo Roma With A New DLC-Coated Auto And Chronograph","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-04-08T06:30:34.343-04:00","created_at":"2024-04-05T11:57:21.610-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-08T06:31:12.905-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"After last year's update to the Octo Roma collection, Bulgari continues to modernize its lineup. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":11835,"public_token":"8e2f82a0231473708b756a8809e209c1","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"After updating its <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-bulgari-octo-roma-now-with-a-chronograph-too/" target=\"_blank\">Octo Roma collection</a> last year, Bulgari is given it the blacked-out, DLC treatment. The 2023 update made the Octa Roma look more contemporary, so giving it a sleek, sporty DLC coating nicely suits the vibe of the collection. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["77e2c9ff-7c4e-42ba-bcd9-decbec31bb4e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The Octo Roma shares a similar silhouette with the Octo Finissimo, but with some softer angles and lines that make it feel just a bit more elegant. The lugs (and thus the bracelet) are also less wide than the Finissimo, meaning it wears less like a gladiator's cuff.\n\nBulgari's giving the DLC treatment to both the Octo Roma Automatic and Chronograph, but is keeping everything else about last year's update the same. The Auto measures 41mm in diameter while the Chronograph is 42mm, and both keep the Octo Roma's Clous de Paris dial pattern, which is now in black to match the case. They both come on a rubber strap with a pattern designed to match the dial, along with an additional alligator strap. Water resistance on both models is 100 meters. \n\nInside both are the same movements as the steel versions: the BVL caliber 191 for the Auto and the BVL cal. 399 for the chronograph, which uses a Dubois-Depraz module. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b29e0010-6e80-4a7e-bce4-47fa809ca60c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"I appreciated last year's update of the Bulgari Octo Roma – it made some aesthetic and technical refinements to make the collection more appealing for those interested in a Genta-adjacent watch under $10,000. Adding an additional black DLC option to the lineup feels like a natural extension. Last year's updates made the Octo Roma feel more clean and contemporary. This year, it's simply about experimenting with materials to make the Octo Roma look even more modern. Bulgari does so many different materials well, it'd be great to see it continue this in the Octo Roma lineup, especially since for many it's more accessible – I mean this both in terms of wearability and affordability – than the Octo Finissimo. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["560800d1-b177-4fc8-ac32-b3c3e6722d22","a3f559fa-f564-4994-aaf0-2b646384df3c"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Bulgari Model: Octo Roma Reference Number: 103927 (Automatic); 103932 (Chronograph)\n\nDiameter: 41mm (Automatic); 42mm (Chronograph) Case Material: Stainless steel case with black DLC Dial Color: Black with Clous de Paris motif Indexes: Applied Lume: Super-LumiNova filled hands and indices Water Resistance: 100 meters Strap/Bracelet: Black rubber strap with pin buckle; additional black alligator strap also provided","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["48039541-7308-4000-9299-886c1abcf54d","7fc12b99-80e7-4b61-96db-04d819fa248d"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Octo Roma Automatic DLC uses the automatic BVL caliber 191, with a date window at 3 o'clock. It has a 42-hour power reserve and beats at 4 Hz. 25.6mmx3.8mm. \n\nThe Octo Roma Chronograph DLC uses the automatic BVL caliber 399, which uses a Dubois-Depraz chronograph module. 42-hour power reserve and beats at 4 Hz. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: TK Availability: July 2024","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"disclosure":"Hodinkee is an authorized retailer of Bulgari. For more information, click <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.bulgari.com/en-us//" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.\n\nBulgari is part of the LVMH group. Although LVMH Luxury Ventures is a minority investor in Hodinkee, we maintain complete editorial independence.","product_ids":""},"type":"Block::DisclosureBox"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Introducing The New Bulgari Octo Roma In Black DLC","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"6bb2d7fe-0ac9-4eec-85a4-e51d37772312","container_id":13259,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/fd12c6bb-86e5-42c5-9a45-0e11240caca4/16x9forHSite15.png","width":1920,"height":1080,"format":"png","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2024-04-05T11:57:21.695-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-05T11:57:21.695-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/fd12c6bb-86e5-42c5-9a45-0e11240caca4/16x9forHSite15.png?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bulgari-blacks-out-its-octo-roma-with-a-new-dlc-coated-auto-and-chronograph","full_title":"Introducing: Bulgari Blacks Out Its Octo Roma With A New DLC-Coated Auto And Chronograph","tags":["bulgari","octo-finissimo","new-watches-2024","watches-and-wonders-2024"]},{"id":13246,"slug":"the-first-ever-automatic-patek-philippe-made-for-one-of-its-most-important-collectors-is-about-to-be","column_slug":"auction_report","title":"The First-Ever Automatic Patek Philippe – Made For One Of Its Most Important Collectors – Is About To Be Sold","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-04-06T13:00:18.176-04:00","created_at":"2024-04-04T09:51:41.217-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-06T13:01:18.397-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Made for J.B. Champion, it's one of the most important Pateks ever made, and it's appearing at Sotheby's this weekend.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":15563,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"In a world of overused superlatives and \"possibly unique\" this-or-thats, it's refreshing to come across something genuinely exciting: the first-ever automatic Patek Philippe, made for one of the brand's most important clients, will be sold at Sotheby's Hong Kong on April 7.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Eight years ago (has it already been that long?),<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-2526-and-why-its-a-watch-to-pay-attention-to/" target=\"\"> </a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-2526-and-why-its-a-watch-to-pay-attention-to/" target=\"_blank\">Ben wrote about</a> the Patek Philippe 2526 and \"why it's a watch to pay attention to,\" and it doesn't get more important the the first 2526 to ever come out of the manufacturer in 1952. First, a quick refresh: The 2526 was the reference that Patek used to introduce its first automatic movement, the superlative caliber 12-600AT. But the appeal of the 2526 doesn't stop with the movement – the 36mm screw-down case and enamel dial are equally impressive.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6f77d02a-1501-4b67-a3fc-937c0417a795"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"But this isn't just any Patek 2526, it's the first one ever made, with movement number 760,000. It's being auctioned in Sotheby's Hong Kong Important Watches sale on April 7, where it has an estimate of 3–5 million HKD (about $380–770,000). Even better, the watch was originally delivered to American lawyer J.B. Champion, perhaps Patek's most important client at the time. The Champion 2526 has appeared at auction twice before,<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/patek-philippe-ref-ref-2526-lot-149-245?browse_all=1&page=1&q=patek+champion\%22 target=\"\"> </a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/patek-philippe-ref-ref-2526-lot-149-245?browse_all=1&page=1&q=patek+champion\%22 target=\"_blank\">in 1991</a> and<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.antiquorum.swiss/catalog/lots/patek-philippe-ref-ref-2526-lot-88-133/" target=\"\"> </a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.antiquorum.swiss/catalog/lots/patek-philippe-ref-ref-2526-lot-88-133/" target=\"_blank\">1998</a>, last selling for $57,500 to the current consignor. In addition to its Patek Extract, the watch comes with a letter from the then-president of the Henri Stern Agency confirming its provenance and delivery to Champion.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["81550eb0-534f-46e9-85ad-0b58ba620d9b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The watch is engraved on the caseback, \"The First Self Winding Patek Philippe Made Especially For J.B. Champion.\" Beyond its importance as the first 2526, it's a typical first-series example in yellow gold with an off-white enamel dial made by Stern Freres. Champion's 2526 remains in good and original condition – the most noticeable difference from its first appearance on the market is that the braided \"C\" bracelet has been swapped for an \"A\" bracelet.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["d9298b02-01d4-426a-8115-b0d027f1c018"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"While Champion is known as one of the greatest Patek collectors of the 20th century, only three of his watches have surfaced on the market to date. He's said to have owned around 20 Pateks, but these are the only three that were designated specifically with his name, so it's possible others will never surface (or that some other folks already unknowingly own a watch with Champion provenance). Eric Wind documented the story of Champion <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/true-story-jb-champion/" target=\"_blank\">here</a> back in 2014. At the time, Champion's 2458 Observatory watch was the most expensive wristwatch without a complication ever sold.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"It's weirdly a more important Patek that it is 2526,\" Ben told me when I asked him about the Champion 2526. \"I'd much rather have a black dial platinum than this watch, but to a scholar or a broad Patek collector, for sure this is the 2526 that matters most.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Ben's comment highlights the historical importance of this particular 2526. On its face, it's not the most interesting or rare watch: It's a simple yellow-gold 2526 with an enamel dial (first series, sure). But flip it over, and the caseback engraving tells a different story.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The first-ever Patek Philippe 2526 is being auctioned at Sotheby's Hong Kong Important Watches sale on April 7. For more information, check out <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2024/important-watches-i/reference-2526-patek-philippes-first-self-winding?locale=en\%22 target=\"\">Lot 2224</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Patek Philippe 2526 From JB Champion To Be Auctioned At Sotheby's","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":36,"slug":"auction_report","name":"Auctions","description":"Explore the world of watch auctions, follow results on both vintage and modern collectibles, and track trends in collecting and spending.","sort_order":12,"created_at":"2016-12-02T12:53:02.270-05:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:39:59.777-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"7116ccaa-8998-41b9-8734-74c2070ebb6a","container_id":13246,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/d20162da-7dc5-4e82-9148-e7315c64144d/Frame4.jpg","width":3840,"height":2160,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"jb champion patek 2526","created_at":"2024-04-04T09:51:41.263-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-04T13:57:21.253-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/d20162da-7dc5-4e82-9148-e7315c64144d/Frame4.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-first-ever-automatic-patek-philippe-made-for-one-of-its-most-important-collectors-is-about-to-be","full_title":"Auctions: The First-Ever Automatic Patek Philippe – Made For One Of Its Most Important Collectors – Is About To Be Sold","tags":["announcements","patek-philippe","vintage-watches"]},{"id":13233,"slug":"previewing-watches-and-wonders-2024-with-ben-james-and-danny","column_slug":"hodinkee_radio","title":"Previewing Watches & Wonders 2024 With Ben, James, And Danny","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-04-03T13:00:21.335-04:00","created_at":"2024-04-02T16:03:21.208-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-03T13:01:47.249-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Predicting what we'll see from Rolex, Tudor, Patek, and what else we're excited about from the Swiss watch industry's biggest annual trade show. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":33814,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"It's Wednesday, which means it's another episode of Hodinkee Radio, and this week, it's a big one: We're kicking off our Watches & Wonders coverage! \n\nIn addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/hodinkee/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee's YouTube channel</a> (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/browse/hodinkee-radio/" target=\"_blank\">Hodinkee Radio</a> feed, so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find your podcasts (might we recommend <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"_blank\">Apple Podcasts</a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://itunes.apple.com/us/podcast/hodinkee-radio/id1412458259/" target=\"\">,</a> <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/hodinkee-radio?refid=stpr\%22 target=\"_blank\">Stitcher</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://open.spotify.com/show/7uJbcyr8BrUU9uRb5W7tbd/" target=\"_blank\">Spotify</a>, or <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"http://tun.in/pi6n7/" target=\"_blank\">TuneIn</a>).","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"code":"<iframe height=\"200px\" width=\"100%\" frameborder=\"no\" scrolling=\"no\" seamless src=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://player.simplecast.com/b7f9a15c-9af6-4e1f-a540-7aee02e67c6d?dark=false\%22>%22},%22type%22:%22Block::Code%22},{%22data%22:{%22copy%22:%22

On April 9, Watches & Wonders begins in Switzerland. I'll be heading to Geneva with a bunch of my colleagues to attend the annual trade show, now the biggest for the Swiss watch industry. Alongside the big show are a number of other shows scattered throughout Geneva – in all, more than 150 brands will be exhibiting in the city. It's one of the few weeks each year where much of the industry descends onto one town. Last year was my first show, and I can't wait to get back for another one.\n\nI'm not the only one who's excited, so I've got Ben, Danny, and James on mic to talk about Watches & Wonders - what to expect from the show, from specific brands (Rolex, Tudor, and Patek), and more before we all hop on flights to Geneva.\n\nAlso, this is your heads up to make sure you're subscribed to Hodinkee Radio, as we'll have daily episodes from Geneva April 9–12. Each day, we'll recap the biggest releases from Rolex, Tudor, Patek, and all 54 brands presenting at Watches & Wonders, as well as the dozens of other brands we'll be visiting in Geneva. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","autoplay":false,"video_id":"IN3SlClxgUQ","poster_url":"","video_type":"youtube"},"type":"Block::InlineVideo"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Show Notes"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"4:51: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-audemars-piguet-2024-watches/" target=\"_blank\">Audemars Piguet's New Watches Of 2024: From the Royal Oak To The Code 11.59, The Offshore, And More (Live Pics)</a>\n\n5:45: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-daytona-le-mans-126529ln-review/" target=\"_blank\">A Week On The Wrist: The Rolex Daytona Le Mans Ref. 126529LN</a>\n\n5:55: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-a-lange-and-sohne-odysseus-chrongraph/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: The A. Lange Odysseus Chronograph</a>\n\n9:12: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-newest-additions-to-the-rolex-gmt-master-ii-collection-in-yellow-gold-and-two-tone-on-jubilee-br/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: The Newest Additions To The Rolex GMT-Master II Collection In Yellow Gold And Two-Tone (On Jubilee Bracelets)</a>\n\n18:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-sea-dweller-reference-126600/" target=\"_blank\">A Week On The Wrist: The Rolex Sea-Dweller Reference 126600</a>\n\n18:26: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-shatters-water-resistance-records-with-its-first-titanium-watch-and-weve-got-exclusive-live-pi/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: Rolex Shatters Water-Resistance Records With Its First Titanium Watch (And We've Got Exclusive Live Pics)</a>\n\n21:40: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-made-a-wearable-titanium-watch-how-are-people-not-freaking-out/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: Rolex Made A Wearable Titanium Watch – How Are People Not Freaking Out?</a>\n\n23:35: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-seemingly-and-quitely-announced-a-new-date-date-40-in-everose-gold-for-the-2024-academy-awards/" target=\"_blank\">Rolex Quietly Announced A New Day-Date 40 In Everose Gold For The 2024 Academy Awards</a>\n\n26:00: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/tudor-shocks-us-all-with-the-new-black-bay-chrono-pink/" target=\"_blank\">Tudor Shocks Us All With The New Black Bay Chrono 'Pink'</a>\n\n31:44: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/two-new-tudor-pelagos-fxds-for-alinghi-red-bull-racing-and-one-of-them-is-a-chronograph/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing: Two New Tudor Pelagos FXDs For Alinghi Red Bull Racing – And One Of Them Is A Chronograph</a>\n\n32:05: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/formula-one-driver-daniel-ricciardo-wearing-a-secret-blue-dial-tudor-black-bay-ceramic/" target=\"_blank\">Watch Spotting: Formula One Driver Daniel Ricciardo Wearing A Secret Blue Dial Tudor Black Bay Ceramic</a>\n\n33:25: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tudor-black-bay-burgundy-now-a-master-chronometer/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: The Tudor Black Bay Burgundy, Now A Master Chronometer</a>\n\n37:18: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-tag-heuer-carrera-glassbox-39mm-its-time-to-care-about-the-carrera-again/" target=\"_blank\">A Week On The Wrist: The TAG Heuer Carrera 'Glassbox' 39mm: It's Time To Care About The Carrera Again</a>\n\n42:40: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-calatrava-ref-6119/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6119</a>\n\n49:30: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/chopard-luc-1860-in-lucent-steel/" target=\"_blank\">Hands-On: The Chopard L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hodinkee's Watches & Wonders Preview 2024","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":59,"slug":"hodinkee_radio","name":"HODINKEE Radio","description":"A weekly podcast hosted by James Stacey that features a chat between a collection of Hodinkee personalities (generally our own editors), focusing on noteworthy/popular topics and stories within the watch world. Unlike with the previous iteration of this show, Hodinkee Radio is no longer an interview show but rather functions more like a depth-adding panel discussion to support the editorial calendar and bring the audience into the sorts of conversations common among the editors.","sort_order":4,"created_at":"2018-07-10T13:23:42.305-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.468-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"ad28ecce-8ee6-418c-9ffa-5bdfd2da407b","container_id":13233,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/f50c0668-26cf-451f-8ef4-22e6060e98e6/H-Radio-Youtube-Cover-0092x.jpg","width":2560,"height":1440,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"hodinkee watches and wonders preview 2024","created_at":"2024-04-02T16:03:21.282-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-02T16:03:21.282-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/f50c0668-26cf-451f-8ef4-22e6060e98e6/H-Radio-Youtube-Cover-0092x.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/previewing-watches-and-wonders-2024-with-ben-james-and-danny","full_title":"HODINKEE Radio: Previewing Watches & Wonders 2024 With Ben, James, And Danny","tags":["watches-and-wonders-2024"]},{"id":13185,"slug":"a-collectors-guide-to-vintage-1970s-cartier-watches","column_slug":"in_depth","title":"A Collector's Guide To Vintage 1970s Cartier Watches","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2024-04-01T13:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2024-03-19T11:03:06.495-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-04T13:48:11.888-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"An introduction to 1970s Cartier, when the Paris house moved its watchmaking to Switzerland, starting with an in-depth look at the Tank Louis. ","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":38614,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"The year 1972 marked a pivotal moment in Cartier's history. First, a group of investors acquired Cartier Paris, soon followed by the acquisition of the Cartier branches in New York and London. This consolidation united the three separate houses after they'd been split up following Pierre Cartier's death, setting the stage for Cartier's growth.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The second significant development was Cartier's partnership with Ebel to move its watch production to La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. Before then, Cartier watches had been produced in Paris (or London) using Swiss movements. While production continued in Paris in limited numbers through the '70s, with Ebel, Cartier had set up in Switzerland to begin producing more watches than ever before.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6042d055-e412-4d13-b0e1-09dad9e6db02"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ad86ffe4-62a5-4aba-b08d-22b1db50abe7","730922bf-7847-4871-b37f-e5336cc15430"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"This began in 1973 when Cartier released its first true historical collection, the Louis Cartier Collection. It started as a collection of 12 watches that brought designs from Cartier's golden years into serial production – like the Tank and Santos-Dumont – while also introducing new designs such as the Cristallor, Ellipse, and Coussin.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["e7a5575c-a64f-49b5-acf8-264a070a9add"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Even though Cartier is one of the most popular watch brands in the world – the second biggest in 2023, if <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/why-are-some-watch-brands-underappreciated/" target=\"_blank\">the annual Morgan Stanley report</a> on the Swiss watch industry is to be believed – there is still much less documentation and information readily available compared to brands like Rolex or Patek. While pre-1970s Cartier watches remain extremely rare, the increased production of the 1970s brought reference and serial numbers that are easier to understand, document, and collect.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"This Collector's Guide consolidates some of this information so you can begin to better understand 1970s models, dials, and even production numbers. I hope to follow it up with additional information on some of the more popular models in the future.\n\nIn this article, I start with general information on 1970s Cartier, and then dive specifically into the most popular model, the Tank Louis ref. 78086.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1970s Cartier Models And Production Numbers"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["3838a282-fd74-4f48-85fb-7bc939a6701f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Buoyed by its new partnership <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/article/137985548/ebel-el-primero-chronograph-collector-guide-1980s-1990s-miami-vice-perpetual-calendar-le-modulor-voyager-blum-movado/" target=\"_blank\">with Ebel</a>, Cartier did something ambitious in 1973: It released 12 new watches as part of the Louis Cartier Collection. All had gold cases, simple white enamel dials with Roman numerals, epée hands, and manual-wind ETA calibers signed for Cartier. While Cartier would go on to add additional models to the collection through the decade, these core features stayed, mostly, the same.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Instead, Cartier experimented with one thing: shapes. These were the 12 models of the original 1973 L.C. Collection, all defined by their unique contours:\n\n<ul> <li>Baignoire (ref. 78094)</li> <li>Ceinture (ref. 78099)</li> <li>Coussin (ref. 78102)</li> <li>Cristallor (ref. 78096)</li> <li>Ellipse (ref. 78091)</li> <li>Faberge (ref. 78101)</li> <li>Gondolo (ref. 97050)</li> <li>Santos-Dumont (ref. 78097)</li> <li>Square (ref. 97051)</li> <li>Tank Louis (ref. 78086)</li> <li>Tank Normale (ref. 78092)</li> <li>Vendome (ref. 78090)</li>\n</ul>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Some of these models had a large (\"LM\") and small model (\"SM\"), while others, like the Baignoire, did not. For those with both, I've included only the LM reference above. Thanks to Matt Takata, aka @<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/cartier_chronicles/" target=\"_blank\">cartier_chronicles</a>, for this information, which is also supported by period advertisements in Europa Star (I love <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.europastar.com/archives//" target=\"_blank\">their archive</a>).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Each model has a five-digit reference number engraved on the bottom caseback. The serial number is engraved immediately after the reference. Sometimes, you'll also see a hand-engraved stock number below the reference and serial, which would've been specific to the local Cartier branch where the watch was sold. The serials for each reference are sequential (e.g., 0001–10,000), which means production numbers can be estimated if you document enough examples of a given reference.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a7f2fb7f-0281-4991-bc1a-8733b4266043"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"For example, I've estimated Tank Louis (ref. 78086) production at 15,000 (i.e., I've documented serial numbers up to 14,xxx). I assume the Tank Louis is the most common model because, well, it's The Tank. Meanwhile, others have estimated production of the Coussin \"Bamboo\" at just 250 examples, presuming it to be the rarest (or most obscure) of the bunch.\n\nThe caseback will also be stamped with gold hallmarks, though these have sometimes been polished away over the years.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"After 1973, Cartier continued to experiment and add different models and shapes to the collection, including the Tortue and other Tank variations. But they maintained the formula established in 1973.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Cartier produced the vast majority of these watches in yellow gold but also made some in white gold. For example, less than 10 percent of the Tank Louis examples I've documented are white gold; interestingly, all are also clustered in a few tight serial ranges.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"1970s Cartier Dials"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4c4d1cb4-d677-4306-b22d-43b094db2d50"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In general, there are three generations of dials for these '70s-era Cartiers. With other brands, these are often referred to as \"marks,\" so let's do the same for Cartier. They're as follows, chronologically:","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<ul> <li>\nMark 1: Defined by a wide, flat \"A\" in the Cartier signature and no hidden signature in the numerals;</li> <li>\nMark 2: Defined by a pointy \"A\" in Cartier and no hidden signature;</li> <li>\nMark 3: Defined by a flat-top \"A\" in Cartier and a hidden signature, typically within 7 o'clock.</li>\n</ul>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["4d25205d-6df4-40a7-aafe-3f7782018659"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Not every reference will have all of these dial types, and some can have additional variations within these marks. For example, I've only seen Tortues with later Mark 3 dials, which suggests the model wasn't introduced until the late '70s. Again, Matt Takata (@<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/cartier_chronicles/" target=\"_blank\">cartier_chronicles</a>), was the first person I saw to begin publicly documenting these dial types, and I thank him for his help here.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"At 6 o'clock, every dial will be signed \"Swiss\" or \"Paris.\" Dials signed Swiss were sold through the Cartier New York branch; Paris dials were sold through London and Paris. Service dials are signed \"Swiss Made.\" A common misconception I see is that Paris dials are either rarer or more valuable, perhaps just because we romanticize Cartier as a Parisian purveyor of luxury goods. In reality, there's no difference in the dials. In fact, in the couple of models I've studied somewhat closely – the Tank Louis and the Tortue – Paris dials seem to slightly outnumber Swiss dials.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["1a2a51c5-5770-4fb2-a3e3-946f4679600a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"For me, the much more interesting distinction is between these Mark 1, 2, and 3 dials. Mark 1 dials are significantly rarer than Marks 2 and 3. The Cartier signature and style maintain some of the hallmarks of earlier Paris-made Cartier watches, giving the dial a charm all its own. To give just a peek at their rarity: I've documented a few hundred Tank Louis examples, and have seen only a few Mark 1 dials. Meanwhile, Mark 2 dials even outnumber Mark 3 dials, roughly 2:1. I assume that many of these early dials have been replaced with service dials over the years, as the enamel is prone to cracking.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["74f55468-02e6-403e-8041-f21735cd8a6e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Cartier Calibers"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"The movements are not the selling point of these '70s Cartiers. Inside most are simple manual wind, ETA movements signed by Cartier. Typically, it's the Cartier caliber 78-1, which is actually just Cartier's version of an ETA 2512. It's a reliable, if boring movement. For some models, like the Tank \"Jumbo,\" Cartier ref. 17002 used an automatic movement.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"The Full Set"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["60691147-24a7-4511-a435-4cea803f8ff7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"You don't see a ton of these 1970s Cartiers that still have their full set with box, papers, and original warranty card. For example, less than 10 percent of the Tank Louis examples I've seen still had their box and papers. The set is lovely, a token of the luxury of old: the red Cartier box is probably the size of two iPhone packages stacked together, with gold-colored trim and detailing. The papers, certificate, and warranty card are all in matching red.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["df6cb12f-6520-4a92-893f-50062e1a7b3f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Originally, these watches were typically delivered on one of a few different styles of leather straps, stamped \"Cartier Paris\" on the inside, along with a matching gold deployant clasp. It's a rare treat to find one with a Cartier beads-of-rice bracelet. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"After The Fact"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d044c10e-d1cf-4298-9a2f-ef42374c80e7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Production of many of these original 1970s models continued into the mid-1980s. Then, Cartier began transitioning to its next generation of watchmaking. Cartier moved away from ETA calibers to use Frederic Piguet movements, most often the manual ultra-thin FP caliber 21. While some of the shapes from the 1970s stayed, they received new reference numbers, movements, and often became even slimmer. For example, the Tank Louis ref. 96065 replaced the 78086, eventually swapping the enamel dial for a guilloche treatment. It's also called the extra plat (extra flat) because the use of the thin FP caliber allowed the case to be even slimmer. Some of these models laid the foundation for the CPCP that Cartier produced from 1998 through 2008.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Putting It Into Practice: The Tank Louis (ref. 78086)"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Now that we've covered the basics of 1970s Cartier watches, let's look at a specific reference: the Cartier Tank Louis ref. 78086. As mentioned, I've documented a few hundred examples that have sold via auction, dealers, and marketplaces like Chrono24 to arrive at this information. I won't claim any of it is definitive, as new watches can always be discovered.\n\nThe Tank Louis ref. 78086 is the quintessential Cartier Tank that you probably know and recognize. It has a thin rectangular gold case measuring 23x30mm, usually on a leather strap, and it's powered by a manual wind movement that's wound with a blue cabochon crown.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Tank Louis Dials "},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e1559fbd-2305-4dce-bf7e-175bf00ae774"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Since Cartier introduced the Tank Louis in 1973 and produced it through the '80s until it was replaced by a new reference, it has the three dial types discussed above:\n\n<ul> <li>\nMark 1: Wide A, no secret signature</li> <li>\nMark 2: Pointy A, no secret signature</li> <li>\nMark 3: Flat A, secret signature at 7 o'clock</li>\n</ul>\n\nIn general, you can think of these as listed from earliest to latest.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"But, for now, it's difficult to define even broad serial number ranges for each dial type. There is so much overlap in the serial numbers these dials can be found in, specifically for Marks 2 and 3, that I wouldn't doubt if the two were being produced side-by-side for a time.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Early Mark 1 dials are by far the rarest. I've seen only a handful, all with three-digit serial numbers. I really like these dials because they resemble the printing you'll see on '60s Tanks.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Mark 2 dials appear beginning in serial numbers in the hundreds – I have documented Mark 2 dials with serials before Mark 1 dials – and as high as 6xxx serials.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Mark 3 dials can be seen in serial numbers as low as 1xxx, but they become much more common in the 6xxx–7xxx range. It's possible these earlier examples with Mark 3 dials are original, but I also wonder if they were swapped or serviced at some point instead and not original to the watch.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Crown Types"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["2e156e51-5c95-4aac-81b3-06604bcfdc42"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Like dial types, there are also three types of cabochon crowns seen on the Tank Louis:\n\n<ul> <li>\nType 1: Tall crown, pointy end</li> <li>\nType 2: Short crown, pointy end</li> <li>\nType 3: Stubby crown, rounded end</li>\n</ul>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Each type meets the case via a knurled base to make for easier winding. Again, in general, you can think of these types as listed from earlier to later.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Type 1 cabochon crowns are the tallest, coming to a long point at the end. They can be observed from the start of production and remain somewhat common through the 6xxx–7xxx serial range.\n\nType 2 crowns are noticeably shorter than Type 1, but still come to a point at the end. While these are also observed in low serial numbers, they become the more common crown type in the 7xxx–8xxx serial range.\n\nFinally, Type 3 crowns are shorter than the first two types, and are rounded at the end, not pointed. These are, mostly, seen in serial numbers from 10,xxx–14,xxx.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"While the three seem to be roughly equally common, I consider the tall crown to be the most desirable. I'd guess this was the earliest crown type, and many original tall crowns were lost and replaced over the years since that cabochon that sticks out so rudely could've chipped quite easily.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"Case & Hallmarks"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e974d1f1-b763-4383-8ecb-8022d1a7a65e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Like all 1970s Cartier watches, most Tank LCs were made in yellow gold, but Cartier also made few examples in white gold. Less than 10 percent of the examples I've documented are white gold, and they all have serial numbers that put them in the first half of production. Interestingly, of those I've seen with complete serials, they all seem clustered in a few tight serial ranges. This is common in vintage watches and suggests the cases may have been produced in batches.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Since they're so much rarer, and because people perceive white gold as more subtle and easy to wear, these white gold Tanks are about 2x the price of a yellow gold example, and that's if you can find one. While you can find a yellow gold Tank LC every day of the week and twice on Sunday, you might only see a few of white gold examples pop up publicly in an entire year.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7bb29675-2b5d-408d-a3e1-9a089d6cbc5a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["eb04dbaa-2201-4f95-abbf-c87d2e971a7f","b207f144-1e9a-403b-9e99-08d38023d742"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Over the years, the cases of most of these vintage Tank Louis have been polished. Honestly, it can be hard to tell just by looking at the lines of the case profile since the LC already has a rounded, polished profile. But there are also hallmarks present on the case which can help in evaluating condition:","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<ul> <li>First, you'll see a couple of hallmarks stamped somewhere on the caseback;</li> <li>Then, there's a hallmark on the midcase, right under the crown. This second hallmark is often gone or barely visible because the case has been polished. </li>\n</ul>\n\nIt's nice to find a sharp case with hallmarks still visible or even untouched, but I don't think it's quite as big of an issue as compared to vintage Rolex sports watches, where cases can lose much of their sharp edges and bevels after a couple of polishes.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"A Note On Other Tanks"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["75a3b9e7-5269-4e16-8468-e61a99444e7a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Alongside the LM Tank Louis, Cartier also produced the small-size Tank Louis ref. 78087, which measured 21x28mm. Except for mentioning it, I won't talk about it any further – I once owned a small-size Tank and got rid of it in about a week. It was just too small, even for me. In the mid-'70s, Cartier also introduced the Tank Automatique ref. 17002, a larger Tank Louis with an automatic ETA movement. While it's also called the \"Jumbo,\" I actually find it quite wearable at 28 x 35mm (roughly the size of the modern \"Large\" Tank).\n\nCartier also made other Tanks in the '70s, including the Reverso, Arrondie, and Stepped Tank, but we'll leave those for another day.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Collecting The Tank Louis And 1970s Cartier"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ca80a68d-f2c4-42d9-bd05-f2298535768f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Today, a Tank Louis 78086 can be found for anywhere from $6,500 to $10,000, give or take, depending on condition. These aren't rare watches – search the internet right now and you can find at least a few available – but it's best to hold out for one in good condition. That means no cracks or serious spotting on the enamel dial, a case that hasn't been chewed up or polished to death, and hopefully, one where the pieces all \"make sense\" together.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"For me, the most desirable Tank LCs are those with Mark 1 dials and long Type 1 crowns. Mark 1 dials in particular are very rare and I think they deserve to command a premium over the later dials. I don't pay attention to the \"Swiss\" or \"Paris\" signature at 6 o'clock – one shouldn't demand a premium over the other.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["8e2595f8-629c-4028-8502-3cfbc43ea079"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Beyond that, collectors are still learning about this era, and all periods, of vintage Cartier. So many of these watches still pop up from original owners or estates, often in unexpected places. They have cool engravings and stories, the type of stuff that becomes less common every day in the collecting world.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["642e6a5a-aa6f-4c58-9128-dbd67e4c184d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Earlier this year, I was an underbidder on <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29458/california-jewels/?page=8\%22 target=\"_blank\">a little Cartier Vendome</a> from the estate of Neile Adams McQueen, the once-wife of Steve McQueen. It was engraved on the back, indicating it was a gift to her second husband on their wedding day in 1980. I thought it would've been a fun, if slightly attenuated, connection to one of the biggest actors of his day, who also happens to mean a lot to the world of watch collecting.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"I mention this to illustrate that, in the world of vintage Cartier, watches like this are still waiting to be discovered, though they're not easy to find. And the fun thing about vintage Cartier is that there's something for pretty much everyone. Happy hunting, and I hope this Collector's Guide helps your search, even a little bit.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":10,"slug":"in_depth","name":"In-Depth","description":"Deep, detailed research on the topics and products defining the watch industry today.","sort_order":6,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.037-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.477-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"4f43e590-1002-4530-a083-2433bbe65ccc","container_id":13185,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/d92b6982-7a35-4a78-88a1-a33e45ea8985/16x9forHSite2.jpg","width":1920,"height":1080,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"vintage 1970s cartier gold watches","created_at":"2024-03-19T11:03:06.573-04:00","updated_at":"2024-04-01T09:43:13.989-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/d92b6982-7a35-4a78-88a1-a33e45ea8985/16x9forHSite2.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-collectors-guide-to-vintage-1970s-cartier-watches","full_title":"In-Depth: A Collector's Guide To Vintage 1970s Cartier Watches","tags":["in-depth","cartier","vintage-watches","vintage-cartier"]}]}">